Agree.? Anecdotally--I've only worked a bit with SS--I believe it to be
harder and more brittle than mild steel.? A couple of cases:
- when trying to get a gas-tight and permanent seal at the exhaust
manifold to downpipe flange, I tried some SS studs from Doug Reid.? They
seemed to snap off with less torque than the mild steel ones, which I
ended up using
- I was experimenting with safety wiring the set pins in my gearbox, and
tried mild steel wire instead of SS and the SS wire broke more easily
than the mild steel.? I used the SS anyway, as, well, it's good enough
for the FAA (see photo)
Bob
On 7/22/2018 11:20 PM, John Spaur wrote:
>
> Pipe bending is an art ?--and switch to stainless (If you decide to
> use stainless steel be prepared for it. The flaring tools are
> different! Single flares, you can succeed most of the time but quality
> control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once or twice if you are
> lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it don?t use SS unless
> you have the right tools or have a shop flare the lines. You should
> also install copper cone washers between the SS flare and the brake
> line seat. It prevents galling of the seat. Oh? the washers are hard
> to find and hard to install; but you can make them.)
>
> I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake wholesale
> supply shop flare the lines. I don?t recall what I paid but it was not
> expensive and it was in and out the same day.
>
> John Spaur
>
> ?62 BT7
>
>
>
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