My builder said it took several degrees of adjustment--dunno which
direction--to get my DWR1 cam dialed in to DW's specs.
Bob
On 7/7/2017 7:39 AM, David Porter wrote:
> ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff,
> exactly what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a
> single cam acting on the valves.. dp
>
>
> On 7/7/2017 4:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
>> Hi Wayne,
>> >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation
>> bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad
>> plated steel bolts. Nothing special. The Rollmaster bolts you have
>> shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) unbrako style cap head bolts.
>> The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the
>> packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts.
>> If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts,
>> not down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts.
>> Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we
>> have had no issues reported.
>> Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly
>> rebuilt engine.
>> Best
>> Chris
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after
>>> two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from
>>> Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear
>>> set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems
>>> on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap
>>> screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very
>>> robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the
>>> cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has
>>> anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and
>>> Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one
>>> bolt installed and the hardware side by side.
>>>
>>> Wayne
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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