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Re: [Healeys] car in Southampton NY

To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car in Southampton NY
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2016 9:12:38 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Dag Kees-------quick comment on your comment on "wet" climates---while on the 
surface, you are correct, don't think I'd apply that to ALL wet-climate cars.  
I live in a wet climate (Western Pa), but the Healey I have owned for almost 37 
years has never seen ice/snow/salt.  I'd hate to lost a potential buyer simply 
because the car is located in a wet climate area.

Look first.

tom
---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
If you check out the car take a magnet with you. If the wings are 
bubbling at the lower edge it is very likely that the sills have rotted 
out on top. Ideally one should remove the splash plates that are fitted 
behind the frond wheels and in front of the rear wheels. Often these 
areas are often "restored" with filler, so check with a magnet. Also 
check the rear deck at both sides with a magnet. This is an area with 
double plating and is also often repaired with filler. Other areas to 
watch are the front and rear of the bonnet and of course the famous kink 
in the bonnet where the stay attaches, which is very difficult to put 
right. Bonnets are not available any more so very expensive second hand. 
There are some fibreglass bonnets around. Check out the lower A-posts 
and the lower edges of the doors.
Avoid the MkI and go for the MkII (post late 1973) with the ribbed oil 
pan and rounded headlamp nacelles. The MkII had most initial issues 
solved and is much better finished although all things are relative.
Being a NY car I would be very cautious. Better go for a dry state 
California/New Mexico/Nevada etc. car. The body is the most expensive 
part to put right so it is important to get a rust free car. Be aware 
that these cars do not sell for big money. $10.000 should get you a near 
concours car.
If you have the chassis number and engine number (on rear motor flange 
over the starter motor) I can check the car out and see if it has the 
original engine.
Parts availability is quite good apart from the bonnet. Most mechanical 
problems can be easily solved. However check play in the steering as the 
lower steering column/shaft is often history and replacements are 
difficult to source. Play in the upper steering column usually means an 
easy rebuild and adjustment by peening over the upper ball bearing as 
this often works loose.
Remember that brakes, traverse, suspension and steering are taken from 
the Vauxhall Viva/Firenza/Magnum HC 1800+. Cheap as chips in the UK.
There are several breakers yards in the US specialising in JH. Also look 
at the JHPS.
Kees Oudesluijs

2x JH MkII '74






Op 27-10-2016 om 4:42 schreef i erbs:
> Howdy all,
> I'm looking into a 73 Jensen Healey located in Southampton NY. Any 
> lister near enough to go check it out for me?
> Owner said PO replaced floors, but there is some signs of rust in the 
> wheel wells. What else should I be concerned about? Said PO rebuilt 
> engine/trans and car has around 65K on it. Needs interior bits (any 
> ideas on sources) and might need repainting or at min have paint 
> cleaned up. asking $3300/ I can forward photos if anyone whats to 
> chime in with observations.
> Thanks
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
> *Aerodynamics are for people who canâ??t build engines.* â?? /Enzo Ferrari/
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
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