Probably not the filter's fault.
As an aside, I recently got a lesson on why you should follow manufacturers'
recommendations, unless you REALLY know
better. Came across a mechanic's website who says he gets lots of business
repairing Ford Modular 4.6L V8s, like in my
Mustang. Turns out the two cams are driven by chains (good), but the chain
tensioners are hydraulically activated and
if you use an incorrect oil or filter the tensioners might not work correctly
on startup, and may break due to the chain
flopping around. The owner's and shop manual call for Motorcraft 5W-20 oil and
a Motorcraft filter with anti-drainback
valve. If you use a higher-vis oil and/or a filter w/o the drainback valve the
tensioners can break, and possibly throw
the valve timing off a tooth or two (hence his increased business).
Fortunately, since I've followed the recommendation
(for once) since new, even though I thought at first that 5W-20 was 'too thin'
and considered using up my stock of
10W-30. Not saying other good 5W-20 oils and filters wouldn't work, but it's
an expensive repair. Oh yeah, I (almost)
always pre-fill the filer when changing.
Interestingly enough, my BJ8 and, I think, all 6-cyl Healeys have a hydraulic
chain tensioner, which is made out of
steel and a hard rubber rubbing surface. Apparently, a much more robust design
(someone didn't tell the bean counters
at BMC).
Bob
On 8/27/2014 5:38 AM, Team.net wrote:
> Interesting. I just had my engine rebuilt and was unable to develop any oil
> pressure with the spin on.
>
> Had to revert to the canister.
>
> Larry
>
--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
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