Thanks Kieth, Gergo:
I printed off the suggestions and I'm taking them over to my body man and
he and I will try them this afternoon.
Things we have tried:
1. we removed the rear passenger fender and adjusted the rear piller with
rubber mallet (a little better fit but still not enough room)
2. Shimmed the lower hinge on the passenger door.
3. ground on the door and the rear fender seam where it meets the rear door
piller. result ground through the door edge skin ,2 " line, will need to
braise//weld the seam and also ground the edge of the rear fender seam where
it meets the door pillar and split it so will need to brade and or weld it.
(We will grind down o where we need it then braise //weld it)
4. We are reluctant to move the front fender as the lines are perfect on
top(where the stainless bead fis) and up front on the headlight buckets.
I will keep you posted if you're interested . Note framed seems straight as an
arrow
Thanks again for your suggestions
Howard
1961 BT7 Mark I tri-car
(I know Mark II's and 1962 are the true tri carbs)
-----Original Message-----
From: llennep <llennep@verizon.net>
To: pajtamuvek <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>; akronzips <akronzips@aol.com>
Cc: Editorgary <Editorgary@aol.com>; Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Nov 25, 2011 10:58 am
Subject: Re: Re: [Healeys] reassembly//question
If in the first line you mean rear fender I would concur with Gergo
suggestions. I had severe trouble like this on the BN7 resto and wound up
tweaking the frame.
Keith
On 11/25/11, Austin Healey<pajtamuvek@gmail.com> wrote:
Not quite easy online, but...
I would try to refit the front fender, and try tol ower the front a bit.
You may even have to partialy refit the front fender also. This will enable
You to shim the lower door hinge and/or grind the top and You wont ruin the
front gap. Sometimes You may even get the same effect by lifting the rear
of the door up hard thus bending the front pillar section a bit (wont be
noticable) and get the door to position (or maybe lovering a bit afterwards
at the hinges).
As an alternative method, You may remove the rear fender and hammer/shape
the rear door pillar area and lower the rear part of the rear fender a
bit.
Gergo
2011/11/25 <akronzips@aol.com>
> Hi Gary:
> Howard in Ohio with a 1961 BT7 about to be reassembled . My question is
> about
> door fitment. Currently the car is in primer and about to be shot with the
> Healey blue and white cove colors. We are having trouble with the door
> lines
> on the passenger side door. The door gap is extremely tight on the top
> section
> of the rear part of the door. Will the articles from the AHCUSA answer
> these
> fitment questions . We've tried door shimes, grinding and still have a
> tight
> fit. We have spent hours on the door fitting and got the driver side
> perfect
> but the passenger side is driving us up the wall, (door has been repaired
> (welded) and yes it is the same size as the drivers door..
> Do you think the articles will help? Healey Articles from AHCUSA or
> Norm,David Nock's technical book be of help?
> Thanks Howard in Ohio
> akronzips@aol.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Editorgary <Editorgary@aol.com>
> To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Nov 24, 2011 10:58 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] reassembly
>
>
> Bob,
> ll the suggestions you might need for reassembly have been contained in
> oger Moment's series of articles in Austin-Healey Magazine, which are also
> vailable to AHCUSA members in pdf form on the healey.org website.
> For my money, Heritage is the very best for interior upholstery, seats,
> oor panels, etc.
> Gary
> ______________________________________________
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