The following applies to the side shift gearbox, but I assume the center
shift would be the same.
When you remove the transmission from the bellhousing be sure to retain and
identify the end play shims for reassembly. The same is true when you remove
the OD. Do not misplace the shift rod buffer.
Caution: Do not shift into gears with the gear box removed from the
bellhousing. If you look into the cavity in the bellhousing where the shift
rods go you should see a plastic buffer pad. It may be glued to the bottom
of the cavity. One purpose of the buffer pad is to prevent over extension of
the shift rods. If the 3/4 shift rod is over extended, the 3/4 sliding hub
will move past the detent and the 3 detent balls and springs will be
released. This not a big problem on disassembly, but if this happens after
assemble, you will get more practice in the dissembling process.
After the top cover is removed (retain the 3 shift rod detent springs and
balls) proceed to the shift rods and shift forks. First remove plug over the
shift rod interlock port. There is an inter lock ball between each of the
shift rods. There are notches in the shift rod shafts where the inter lock
balls reside when in neutral. When a shift rod moves in to a gear position,
the shift rod moves past the ball notch pushing the ball into the notch on
the adjoining shaft. This prevents more than one gear from being engaged at
the same time. Removal of the shift rods and forks is strait forward as is
the reverse gear and shaft.
One tool you will need is a dummy laygear (some call this part the cluster
gear) shaft. The dummy laygear shaft is simply a rod or tube the same
diameter as the real shaft and the same length as the laygear. The laygear
shaft measures .758 inch, so a dummy shaft at .750 will work just fine. It
can be a little shorter, but no longer as then the layshaft thrust washers
cannot be installed on reassembly. The dummy shaft is essential for
reassembly, but can also be used for disassembly. You cannot remove the
input and output shaft with the laygear in place. Place the dummy shaft
against the end of the real laygear and push the laygear shaft out of the
gearbox case. Since the dummy shaft is shorter than the real shaft the
laygear will fall onto the bottom of the gearbox case. Now the input and
output shaft can be removed. Remember that the bearing between the input and
output shaft is simply 18 lose needle bearings. Be sure to collect all of
them. Once the input and output shafts are removed, the laygear and thrust
washers can be removed. Rebuilding the output shaft components is per the
workshop manual and diagrams. Assembly is the reverse. Since the bearings
in each end of the laygear are loose needles,( 23 in each end) assembly is a
little tricky. Using a heavy grease position the 23 needles in one end of
the layshaft. Carefully insert the dummy shaft. Position the 23 needles in
the other end of the layshaft. With the dummy shaft in place the laygear
can be placed in the bottom of the case. Install the reverse gear and
shaft, output shaft and then the input shaft. Insert the real laygear shaft
into the case ( the notch in the end of the shaft goes forward as it engages
a cavity in the bellhousing to prevent rotation) just enough to hang a
thrust washer on the shaft. Now you must lift the laygear shaft to engage
the gears and line up the shaft with the holes in the case. Now push the
laygear shaft thru the laygear pushing the dummy shaft out the other end.
Do not pull the dummy shaft out as this will allow the needles slide around.
With the laygear shaft fully installed, push the laygear shaft into the
laygear just enough to allow slipping the other thrust washer between the
laygear and the case. Finally center the laygear shaft and reassemble the
rest of the gearbox. With the gearbox assembled it is tempting to shift thru
the gears. DO NOT, without having the bellhousing attached or you will be
doing the assembly all over again (see above)
A couple of other comments. BJ8 gearbox's use caged needle bearings which
makes the job easier. You may not need a dummy shaft. The input shafts
across the models are not interchangeable.
Hope this helps.
Herb Miller
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at
autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jeff Capezzuti
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2011 9:20 PM
To: zzuti1 at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] MKII BJ7 Gearbox Rebuild????
I am in the beginning stages of planning to rebuild my original Gearbox.
The synchros are wearing out, and have never been replaced. Does anyone
have any advice they'd be willing to share?
I have a few questions:
1.) Do you have to pull the engine and box out in order to access the
Gearbox?
2.) what is the best source to acquire the new synchros from?
3.) Is there anything else I should do while I've got it out?
4.). IF, I don't do this myself, what should it cost, and any
recommendations in the central Florida area?
I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions!!!!
Thank You all!!!!
Jeff Capezzuti
(770) 313-4320
Sent from my iPhone
On May 29, 2011, at 11:11 AM, MBran89793 at aol.com wrote:
> FWIW It certainly appears that some Listers have forgotten that when
> you change the Subject [Healeys] Chatter to a new subject I.E.
> 'Spanner" that the subject should be changed also.
> Just my $.02 worth.
> Marion
>
>
> In a message dated 5/29/2011 10:44:57 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> dcongleton at embarqmail.com writes:
>
> ("Actually it is from the German word spannen to stretch, span :^)
> _______________________________________________
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