To add to the usual problems, if you remove the diaphragm and blow an
airline into the body of the pump along the central hole you may find a
large quantity of rust and muck that will slow the pump down and eventually
stop it. I had one that would seize after a couple of days 'rest' and doing
this cured it for the next 3 years 'till I sold the motor. If you strip the
body down to component parts it is an easier but more time consuming job to
clean it thoroughly. If you do, paint a little clear varnish on the inside
of the body to seal it.
Do not look along the hole as you squirt compressed air down it and be
prepared for a quantity of muck that looks as if it came from something 10
times the size!. If you don't have a compressor, use a footpump with a
length of screen wash tube clipped into the connector.
Guy R Day
----- Original Message -----
From: <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 5:56 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump
> I have a rebuilt SU fuel pump, albeit several years old, but hardly used.
> If my car sits for a couple of months I have to take it apart and clean
> the points etc to get it to run. I have adjusted it as per the factory
> manual and per all available tricks and tips supplied by the recognized
> experts. Once functioning it works fine until the car sits for an extended
> period. The battery switch is off when the cars is idle. Any ideas
> appreciated.
>
> --
> Tim Davis BN7
> _______________________________________________
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