Man, most of these ideas seem to be pretty drastic measures for us
Healeyites that don't weld.
Here is a fix that I found at an Ace or True Value store. In those assorted
boxes of fittings, washers, nuts , bolts, and do dads that all these
hardware stores have I found various sized "Well Nuts." But not in the
usual rubber type. These were aluminum. And along with the well nut comes a
specific tool to fit the different sizes to crush the nut after inserting it
into the hole. I used a 7/8 or 3/8 size to replace the rear trany bracket
nut on one side that had broken off when I was doing my tear down. It
worked beautifully and after the Crush it becomes very strong. This saved
the day for me cause I had no idea of how else to handle that area unless I
drilled a hole from down below the frame and just threaded a nut on.
Buuuuut this aluminum "well nut" really took care of the problem. And
they come in a variety of sizes.
Good Luck, Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce@adelphia.net>
To: "Healey Mail Group" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 12:53 AM
Subject: Anti-sway bar mounting
> OK, I would like some thoughts and/or other opinions as to a solution to
> this problem. While replacing the anti-sway bar bushings, I discovered
> that the rear bolt on the left side frame bushing strap was backed out of
> its hole about half way. I then discovered that the threads on the bolt
> were rounded off. I retapped the hole (5/16 24) and proceeded to bolt it
> all back up (new bolt, of course) when, just as that back bolt was about
> snug--ZIP--out it popped. I ran the tap up the hole again, but 5/16 is
> not going to hold. So, I can see two options: (a) drill out 21/64 and
> re-tap using 3/8 24, or (b) drill up through the top of the frame rail,
> and use a long bolt w/ a fender washer and nut. Thoughts? Other options?
> Given the stresses on the bolt, I'm reluctant to use a heli-coil.
>
> Bruce Steele
> 1960 BN7
> Brea, CA
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