Try this for videos, etc. on welding.
http://www.muggyweld.com/index2.html
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
www.healey6.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Chris Masucci
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 7:22 PM
To: Ned Smith; Austin-Healey List
Subject: Re: Welding
If your welder is just too big, sometimes you can get away with this. Try
holding the trigger so that the wire contacts the metal at 10 degree angle
or less. Sometimes you can cheat it a bit and still get a decent stitch
weld. Think of it as trying to weld to the front of the weld bead that you
are laying down. That way you are transferring most of the heat to the weld
bead that you just put down.
Chers,
Chris
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ned Smith" <smithn00@kitepilot.net>
To: "Austin-Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 12:22 PM
Subject: Welding
> My attempts to weld patches in the floor pan are not going too well.
>
> My new Harbor Freight welder has a high and a low amp setting. I am using
> the low 62-68 amp setting.
>
> As someone on the list pointed out, the welding wire is always is always
> hot
> when the machine is turned on.
>
> The only other variable is wire feed rate.
>
> I am using 22 gage sheet metal for the patches (this may be the real
> problem, using too thin patch material).
>
>
>
> I haven't touches the car yet but in practice runs I am always blowing
> holes
> in the metal when I try to join two pieces.
>
>
>
> My first thought was that the amps are too high. But I am as low as I can
> go. Did I buy the wrong welder?
>
>
>
> Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
>
>
>
>
>
> Ned Smith
>
> BJ8
>
> near Chattanooga, TN
>
> N34.98 W85.5
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