Hi, Ned -
If you're only doing a temporary repair, the gauge of the metal doesn't
matter and you can use anything that is convenient. Your approach is
reasonable, but you might find it easier (but messier) to patch the holes
with fiberglass cloth and resin.
I have owned my car for almost 25 years now, and in the beginning my
approach to repairs were the same as yours. My fiberglass repairs to the
floors lasted for over 10 years until my body skills and budget improved to
the point where I could do them more correctly.
Happy Healeydays!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ned Smith
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 8:24 AM
To: Austin-Healey List
Subject: Starting to Find Rust
I am starting to find the rust that the PO said wasn't there.
I took off the Gear box cover and one thing led to another. The corner where
the fire wall and the floor pan meet the gear box cover is pretty much air
for 2" in all directions. I started scraping up the tar paper that covered
the rest of the pan and it came up with a layer of rust. But the underlying
metal seems sound under that though.
I don't have the resources to fix that right now so I need a
semi-temporary(six months to one year) solution.
I propose to treat the area with POR-15 to stabilize the situation. Then pop
rivet new sheet metal over the holes coating the joint liberally with
silicone chalk.
Does this wound reasonable?
What gauge sheet metal should I use? I know this has been talked about in
the recent past but I can't seem to find the right search parameters to find
the answer.
Thanks,
Ned Smith
BJ8
near Chattanooga, TN
N34.98 W85.5
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