Doug
Just a small point of detail; adjustments can only change the amplitude
and to a lesser extent the "purity" of the sound. The note is set by the
diaphram which is a different part number for each note.
For those who are interested, Lucas did publish full internal adjustment
instructions for these horns but it involves special jigs and the use of
a dial gauge etc.
The only safe adjustment without these tools is the small one on the
back. An ammeter is required to acheive the correct current of 4 amps.
If this adjustment is carried out "on the bench" be sure to use heavy
wire between the horn and battery. One word of caution do not try and
set the horns up without the use of an ammeter. If the current is too
high the fuse may be blown and in the extreme the wiring and horn could
be damaged.
All the best
>Bob,
>According to Peter Genovese at Highland Automotive, the horn tones are
>supposed to sound equal to the musical notes of C and F (just in case you're
>doing any fine tuning with those screws).
>Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyXL at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 06:13:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheels, Wheels, Wheels
Eric,
I was close buying the 5.5 alloys for my BT7 as well but finally decided to
go for the 5.5 wire spoke wheels since the original 2-eared knock-offs I like
to keep look a bit strange on the alloys. What turned out to be the perfect
choice in the end (at least for me, maybe not for a concourse juror) were the
5.5 Dunlop chrome wires (front regular, rear wide rim style) with 195/70/15
tires. Still looks quite authentic, has a nearly perfect diameter match vs.
the original 5.90x15 tires, fills the fenders properly and drives great.
Ralf - BT 7
Germany
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 07:27:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
John,
I guess that explains why my attempts often result in C sharp and F flat!
Doug, 18G
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Harper" <John@jharper.demon.co.uk>
To: "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner@prodigy.net>
Cc: "Bob" <rrelick@houston.rr.com>; "healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 2:44 AM
Subject: Re: Horns and Turn Signals - BJ8
>
> Doug
>
> Just a small point of detail; adjustments can only change the amplitude
> and to a lesser extent the "purity" of the sound. The note is set by the
> diaphram which is a different part number for each note.
>
> For those who are interested, Lucas did publish full internal adjustment
> instructions for these horns but it involves special jigs and the use of
> a dial gauge etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kate Vogel" <kavogel at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 07:15:48 -0500
Subject: southeastern classic XV
The information and registration forms for Southeastern Classic XV, to be held
in Tullahoma, Tennessee, over the weekend of September 13-16, can be found at
the following site:
http://www.healeyclub.org/sec15.html
Please alert your newsletter editors and other interested parties, because our
host hotel is filling up fast and this event promises to be a sellout.
Kate
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 22:07:16 +1000
Subject: Re: Wheels, Wheels, Wheels
Hi,
I have 6 inch Minilite replica centre lock (splined) wheels - manufactured
in New Zealand - and I believe available from people like Mike Salter, Bill
Bolton (or the Healey Factory or Steve Pike here in Australia). I have had a
set on my 3000 for several years - mainly for competition use - and got so
sick of the look of wires (for the road) - I just bought a second set of
these wheels six weeks ago. They are hard to get - a batch of about 100 of
these wheels is only manufactured once a year.
I use Yokohama A008RS tyres on the track - 195 60 15; and Falken RS410S 195
60 15 on the road.
I think you are saying 5.5 inch because that is the SC centelock alloy wheel
made in the UK is 5.5 inches. However - you can use a centrelock alloy
wheel at 6 in rim width - which is a better width for a 195 tyre. I put a
spacer (about 10mm) between the alloy wheel and the bolt on steel centre -
and decrease the offset so that the front wheels are inside the standard
guards.
I used to use 5.5 in 72 spoke wires - never again after the alloys. No
regrets with the alloys - and no wheel flex!! I used to get enough wire
wheel flex to rub the 5.5 in 72 spoke wires (with the A008RS tyres) on my
rear inner guards in competition. The alloy 6in wheels with the same tyres
go no where near the same rear inner guards....
The patterns for these NZ made wheels, I believe, were taken from an
original magnesium minilite. They certainly look much different to the 5.5
in wide centrelocks I have seen .
There are pics all over my website of my 3000 with these wheels fitted.
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey/
Hope this helps
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: <WEricars@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 1:35 AM
Subject: Wheels, Wheels, Wheels
> My questions for the list are these:
>
> 1. What is the best source for alloy wheels (price and quality being the
two issues).
>
> 2. To those who have the alloy knock offs, how do you like them? Any
regrets? Any noticable improvements?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 09:55:41 -0600
Subject: RE: Rear Hub Locknut Torque
John,
I went with the normal torque for modern cars and their wheel lugs - 72
lbs-ft.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: John W. Cope [mailto:naku@wayxcable.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 5:39 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Rear Hub Locknut Torque
Listers:
I don't find a specified torque in the manual for the rear hub locknuts.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
John Cope 62 BT7 Tricarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 11:30:55 -0500
Subject: RE: Rear Hub Locknut Torque
Gentlemen,
Having lost my left rear wheel at speed on the highway last October, I would
highly recommend using Loc Tight (spelling ?)as well. Trust me - you will
wish you had as soon as you start spinning at 65 MPH.
With four securely on the floor,
Carlos Cruz
>From: "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
>Reply-To: "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
>To: "'John W. Cope'" <naku@wayxcable.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: Rear Hub Locknut Torque
>Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 09:55:41 -0600
>
>John,
>
>I went with the normal torque for modern cars and their wheel lugs - 72
>lbs-ft.
>
>Adnan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John W. Cope [mailto:naku@wayxcable.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 5:39 PM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Rear Hub Locknut Torque
>
>Listers:
>
>I don't find a specified torque in the manual for the rear hub locknuts.
>Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>John Cope 62 BT7 Tricarb
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 11:57:22 -0500
Subject: side of road repairs
If you ever need something like loctite to get ya down the road ( driveshaft
bolts etc.), fingernail polish will work in a pinch!
I used bubblegum to fix a vacuum leak on a triple webber manifold, one time,
while out of town!
Rich Wright
Mod Healey
Chevy 302!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Csooch1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 13:39:01 EDT
Subject: Transmission/Odrive
Woo-hoo!, I just finished putting the transmission together with the overdrive
for my BJ8. It was a bit difficult getting everything to line up correctly,
but after 4 attempts I got it right. The two housings drew together evenly
with no binding. I made sure that I could turn both input shaft and output
shaft while I was tightening up the bolts, to make sure nothing was binding.
I remember that before the rebuild with the box in 4th gear, it was fairly
difficult to turn the input shaft by hand. Yet, it has been about 9 months and
one cross country move since I started and I can't remember exactly how hard it
was to turn. The rebuild included all new bearings and seals, so it may need
some running in before it loosens up a bit. I can turn it by hand now, but how
difficult should the shaft be to turn? Are there any specs that I could
measure just to make sure that all is ok? Is the resistance I feel due to the
o-drive springs preloading the tailshaft bearing?
Thanks for the help,
Chris
BJ8
XJ6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 14:25:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Transmission/Odrive
Hi Chris,
In my experinance I the box should turn fairly easily in 4th gear.
You should not need 2 hands to rotate the input shaft but you need a
fair grip to rotate it with one.
Hope that helps.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 14:25:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Transmission/Odrive
In a message dated 8/1/01 11:20:46, magicare@home.com writes:
<< In my experinance I the box should turn fairly easily in 4th gear.
You should not need 2 hands to rotate the input shaft but you need a
fair grip to rotate it with one.
Hope that helps. >>
But in case you're thinking backwards, try turning it in first (easier) or
reverse (easiest).
Sounds obvious, just in case...
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 13:40:51 -0500
Subject: Re: side of road repairs
>If you ever need something like loctite to get ya down the road (
> >driveshaft bolts etc.), fingernail polish will work in a pinch!
Does color matter? How 'bout finish, Gloss, Satin, Flat?
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 14:42:16 -0500
Subject: So Al Special/ LSR no LBC
Well folks.... I don't talk much about what I am doing with this old
Junk
Camaro.... but once a year I pitch out what's happening.... here is the
story and the saga of my challenges to join DMH in the Bonneville Two
hundred Mph Club.
In the world of Land Speed Racing there are 4 Two Hundred mph clubs....
Bonneville UT /ECTA, Maxton NC/ El Mirage Ca./ Muroc Dry lake Ca. Only
one man is in all Four.... George Potter one of my personal goals is to
join him.
Last Year I went to Muroc Dry Lake ( Edwards AFB Ca.) and set a record at
205.787 mph joining the Muroc Two Club.... I was already in the 2 club for
the East Coast Timing association where we won the Points race last
year.... But I put Two new guys in the 200mph club on the 1 mile course
there....( Brad Johnson and Will Handzel ) This leaves 2 of the Four
200mph clubs left for me to do..... Bonneville and El Mirage....
My Efforts last year included Two events on the Salt.... Speedweek and the
World of speed...... my best pass was a run of 228.304mph . This speed
was in the 4th mile of a five mile course.... and I broke the Motor at the
3.5 mile point so I coasted down from an estimated 235mph...... the Record
in the D ( less the 305 cubic inches) Fuel Altered Class..... is 230mph....
So I was actually over the record but again it don't count unless you can
back up your speed on a second run and the average of the Two Passes has to
be over the record.....
Bottom line I have a new Rodeck engine for this year and it's a 300 cubic
inch Aluminum Motor with 18 degree Nascar heads and a bazillion bucks worth
of fancy Junk inside it..... I have been lucky to have Barry Grant
sponsor the Fuel system in the car and that includes the Two Stages of
Nitrous we are going to be running this year..... The Motor makes 600.6hp
and the Nitrous is worth another 600hp if I need it..... hopefully I
won't.... we only had 500hp last year on the motor and 200hp of
Nitrous..... so I think we are in really good shape for this year....
If in fact we can get the Bonneville deal done I am having a fella named
Don Wales fly over from England to drive the car in September at Maxton NC
..... Don is running an electric car and I am going to get him his First
couple of lic's ....
He also happens to be Sir Malcolm Campbells Grandson..... ( yes that aided
in my interest ..... that plus the fact that I love British cars didn't
hurt )
after this mess I am going to take the car out to California for El Mirage
next year and leave it until I get in that Club......... but having the Car
outta my shop means I can concentrate my efforts on building my Bugeye Land
speed racer.....
By the Way I am pitting at Bonneville with Doug Odom who owns the Only
active Austin Healey on the Salt at Present and who has become a great
friend of mine..... Doug went to Australia in Feb and set records down
there..... but he has the ability this time to actually set the Fastest
record in an Austin Healey Ever at Bonneville this year.....
That is what is happening in my world..... I leave on Monday to head out to
Bonneville again and can't wait..... seems like Maybe finally the chances
are pretty good...... but with all things it's up to Fate and Luck past the
Preparation Point......
Keith Turk
Austin Healey 100, Bugeye, Box sprites, Bonneville Camaro ( Land Speed
Racer)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 12:42:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: LA BRITISH CAR MEET 2001
Dear Southern California Listers,
There have been many little changes in the way events are being handled
here in Los Angeles and this is going to translate into some BIG changes in
the Greater Los Angeles British Car Meet this year and from now on. To
start with:
* The traditional October 14th meet has been postponed until DECEMBER 2nd,
2001! This is partially because of some scheduling problems but also
because the Moss Motors/Santa Monica Museum of Flying event moved from
spring to October. This combined with San Diego British Car Day, Triumphest
and a million other car meets in September and October has led us to
rethink what we are doing and if there is a need for yet another meet at
the same time of year. The December date was a last minute idea that had
mixed reviews at first but has caught on as it will be one of but a few car
events at the end of the year. There is less than an 18% chance of rain and
few clubs have any events to participate in for December so we will see how
it works.
* We will be adding a swap meet to the December 2nd meet to see how it
works. Spaces will be $25 each and there will probably be a preregistration
for the swap area as we will need to have some idea of how much room we
will need - We will keep you posted!
* Regardless of the success of the December meet, we are planing to move
the regular LA British Car Meet into early spring, 2002. This will fill a
dead spot on the SoCal British Car calender and get people into dusting off
and driving their British classics earlier in the year.
We thank you for supporting our efforts and hope these changes are good for
everyone in the SoCal area.
Cheers,
Rick Feibusch
Venice, CA
*********************************************
THE GREATER LOS ANGELES BRITISH CAR MEET
WOODLEY PARK IN VAN NUYS
SUNDAY, DECEMBER 2nd, 2001
Be part of the biggest all British automotive
lawn event in Southern California. Over 400
classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British
cars are expected to fill the field at Woodley
Park in Van Nuys, for the 20th Annual Greater
Los Angeles British Car Meet.
Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily
drivers, vintage racers, street rods & works-
in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality
show cars. Great British food, live jazz,
vendors and more fun than you'll be able to
stand! People's Choice awards will be given
in six classes. There is no preregistration.
Cars will be placed on the field starting at
9:00AM and the fun goes on all day long. the
registration fee is $20 per car at the gate.
All participants receive a commemorative gift.
Spectators park and attend free.
Woodley Park is located in Van Nuys, just north
of the Ventura Freeway (101), on Woodley Ave.
between Burbank and Victory. From the San Diego
Freeway (405), take the Burbank Blvd. exit west,
drive to Woodley Ave. and turn right. Look for
the entrance to the right. For information call:
310-392-6605 or email us at: rfeibusch@loop.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:10:45 EDT
Subject: Re: side of road repairs
In a message dated 8/1/01 2:44:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ahrdstr@hotmail.com writes:
<< If you ever need something like loctite to get ya down the road (
> >driveshaft bolts etc.), fingernail polish will work in a pinch!
Does color matter? How 'bout finish, Gloss, Satin, Flat >>
In his excellent article on spare parts and tools to be carried on the road,
Jim Werner of BGAHC expressed a definite preference for "Revlon Roseblush
Gloss". I carry it and assume that most other listers do as well.
Best to all--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:29:30 EDT
Subject: Re: side of road repairs
In a message dated 8/1/01 4:14:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Awgertoo@aol.com
Michael (smartass!) Oritt writes:
<<> In his excellent article on spare parts and tools to be carried on the
> road, Jim Werner of BGAHC expressed a definite preference for "Revlon
> Roseblush Gloss". I carry it and assume that most other listers do as well.
> >>
>
Only for evening wear. Something less flashy should be used before five.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 16:11:09 -0500
Subject: Re: side of road repairs
Jim,
I thought that was you in that long dress participating in that "OTHER
CONVENTION" at SpringThing - you remember the one's lacking the right
polarity converter. I thought Roseblush went very well with the long white
gown and your blonde wig.
Those of you who missed SpringThing may not know about the SpringThing Side
Show. I'm sure Jim can let you in on all the details. The other group was
definately a contributing factor to the fun at Healey Meet. BGAHC really
knows how to throw a party. ;-0
Cheers.
CC
>From: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
>Reply-To: Jwhlyadv@aol.com
>To: Awgertoo@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: side of road repairs
>Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:29:30 EDT
>
>In a message dated 8/1/01 4:14:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>Awgertoo@aol.com
>Michael (smartass!) Oritt writes:
><<> In his excellent article on spare parts and tools to be carried on the
> > road, Jim Werner of BGAHC expressed a definite preference for "Revlon
> > Roseblush Gloss". I carry it and assume that most other listers do as
>well.
> > >>
> >
>Only for evening wear. Something less flashy should be used before five.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim Werner
>Louisville, KY
>jamesfwerner.com
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 19:36:28 EDT
Subject: Re: side of road repairs
Wow, I innocently book one Healey Meet in a hotel that turns out to have a
convention of Christian Transvestites going on at the same time and I never
hear the end of it!
Other than keeping me from hitting on women in the bar for the weekend it
went smoothly. Our attitude was everyone has a right to express themselves as
long as they don't mess with our cars.
But it was different running into people in dresses who needed a shave. They
probably thought all those people in Austin Healey shirts were the ones
dressed funny.
In a message dated 8/1/01 5:17:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ahrdstr@hotmail.com writes:
> Those of you who missed SpringThing may not know about the SpringThing Side
> Show. I'm sure Jim can let you in on all the details. The other group was
> definitely a contributing factor to the fun at Healey Meet. BGAHC really
> knows how to throw a party. ;-0
>
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
jamesfwerner.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 19:42:02 -0600
Subject: BN2-clutch return spring
I have a BN2. Can anyone tell me where the clutch return spring hooks
on. I have one end hooked into the clutch operating shaft lever (the
piece that splits in half and goes over the trunnion on the linkage) but
I cannot tell where the other end hooks on. I have the small anchor
with two holes in it but I cannot see where to attach it. In all of the
pictures I can find I can only see the one end, not the end that I
need. In some diagrams it looks as though it has something to do with
the grease nipple but I don't want to do that unless that is what is
required.
Thanks in advance.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JRLNJ at aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 22:13:25 EDT
Subject: sparkplugs
What NGK plug is used for a BJ8?
Is it the BP6ES?
Thanks,
Ray
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bruce Steele <bsteele2 at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 22:15:14 -0700
Subject: Side curtain stowage bag for BN7
Greetings listers. I'm in need of a stowage bag for the side curtains
for my BN7. I've heard that the ones from Moss don't fit very well,
and one must remove the mounting brackets to stow them, which seems
like a real pain, especially after I've got them adjusted to fit
reasonable well. I'm interested in any feedback or experience you've
had with these. Also, will 2 curtains fit in one bag? Anyone out
there have a bag in good condition for sale? Thanks in advance.
Bruce
bsteele2@pacbell.net
1960 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 08:01:32 EDT
Subject: Re: SV: Hydraulic lines (pipes)
In a message dated 7/31/01 10:29:31 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
healey@telia.com writes:
<< Mr Finespanner makes prebent steel lines that comes with all original
fittings. >>
I ordered some from him about a month back and got them in a couple of days.
These were the caliper to flex line and they fit great,
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 09:22:40 -0400
Subject: Re: sparkplugs
Nope.....BP5ES
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
JRLNJ@aol.com wrote:
> What NGK plug is used for a BJ8?
> Is it the BP6ES?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 09:11:46 -0500
Subject: Re: sparkplugs
>What NGK plug is used for a BJ8?
>Is it the BP6ES?
Ray:
The BP6 will be a little too cold for an original engine BJ8, especially if
the
engine has not recently been rebuilt. The recommended plug is BPR5ES. If
your
engine is old and still fouls with the BP5, the next hotter plug is GR4.
Best regards,
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Gary R. Cox" <gcox at tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 07:27:00 -0400
Subject: ListQuest Archive Site
Mr. David Sullivan - Technical Contact
Record Transcripts, Inc.
Halifax, NS
RE: Core Networks, Inc. aka ListQuest.com
David,
Why is the ListQuest archive site down again? It seems to be a recurring
situation. Server problems? I'm a Austin Healey owner and I find the archives
to be extremely helpful.
Gary R. Cox
Bradenton, FL
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 18:53:10 -0400
Subject: Re: BN2-clutch return spring
Ward Stebner wrote:
> I have a BN2. Can anyone tell me where the clutch return spring hooks
> on. I have one end hooked into the clutch operating shaft lever (the
> piece that splits in half and goes over the trunnion on the linkage) but
> I cannot tell where the other end hooks on. I have the small anchor
> with two holes in it but I cannot see where to attach it. In all of the
> pictures I can find I can only see the one end, not the end that I
> need. In some diagrams it looks as though it has something to do with
> the grease nipple but I don't want to do that unless that is what is
> required.
> Thanks in advance.
Ward,
There is a small bracket which fastens onto the bell housing to engine bolt
at about the 8 o'clock position when viewed from behind. It is about 1 1/2"
long and about 3/4" wide at the end with the bolt hole, tapering to about
1/2" wide at the outer end, with about a 3/16" hole for the return spring to
loop through. It's about 3/32" thick. When mounted into position, the
bracket is slightly canted to about 30 degrees to the rear of the car when
viewed from the side.
These sizes are only appox. as I'm going from memory. I think I have a spare
one in a drawer somewhere, if you need it.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Warrenberg at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 19:13:22 EDT
Subject: My 3000 stutters
My 61 3000 stutters at higher revs in all gears. Accelerates fine in all
gears till about 3000 plus RPM and then develops a pronounced stutter (loss
of power and acceleration with a judder accompanying said phenonema). Can
anyone suggest the cause.
Thanks!
WB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 19:25:43 -0400
Subject: Re: My 3000 stutters
not to sound facetious, but try singing. It worked for Mel Tillis.
PS
Please don't take offense. I couldn't help myself.
Warrenberg@aol.com wrote:
> My 61 3000 stutters at higher revs in all gears. Accelerates fine in all
> gears till about 3000 plus RPM and then develops a pronounced stutter (loss
> of power and acceleration with a judder accompanying said phenonema). Can
> anyone suggest the cause.
>
> Thanks!
> WB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 19:25:10 EDT
Subject: Re: My 3000 stutters
In a message dated 8/2/01 16:16:49, Warrenberg@aol.com writes:
<<
My 61 3000 stutters at higher revs in all gears. Accelerates fine in all
gears till about 3000 plus RPM and then develops a pronounced stutter (loss
of power and acceleration with a judder accompanying said phenonema). Can
anyone suggest the cause.
Thanks!
WB >>
sounds to me like tired points. Clean 'em up with sandpaper, small file,
something. Fix the gap, etc.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyBN4 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 20:50:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Side curtain stowage bag for BN7
SC Spares in the UK sells a very nice side curtain bag which holds both
screens with a middle divider. I bought mine 2 years ago to replace the
original bag and the quality has been great. I have a link to there website
on my Healey Heaven page.
Pete
******************************************************************************
********************
Pete Sturtevant - Massachusetts, USA
1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 1966 Mustang GT
1964 Jaguar MK2 3.4 1966 Mustang Convertible
HealeyBN4@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/ <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/";>My Webpage</A>
******************************************************************************
********************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Beattie, Bob" <bob.beattie at dsto.defence.gov.au>
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 10:33:41 +0930
Subject: The Texas Cooler
I emailed a friend of mine in Texas who owns a Healey 3000 and asked him
about a"Texas Cooler" and he was of the same opinion as me that is was
probable a foam Box that you keep your beer and ice in when you go for a
sunday drive.
Can someone tell me what a "Texas Cooler" is ,is it electric or belt
driven,has anyone got a picture of one.At the moment my healey has a 6
bladed stainless steel fan which looks like it was manufactured by a
blacksmith I also have a 4 bladed fan of a Worsley 6/99 which looks more
professional.As the car is having a complete rebuild I would like to have
the right or the best fan for our hot conditions on before the reassembly.
Thanks Bob Bt. Australia.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 22:02:47 EDT
Subject: Southeastern Classic XV Update
Bob Thurman, SE 15 co-chair, asked me to help spread the word on the Internet
regarding the registration form deadline for this years Southeastern Classic.
The Southeastern Classic registration form incorrectly has a deadline of
August 13 listed. That date is required only if you want to go to Miss Mary
Bobo's for Lunch. SE 15 will take event registrations up to the day of the
event and everyone is welcome.
This promises to be a sell out event at the host hotel so make your
reservations early. But if you can't you can still register as a walk-in.
Please be considerate and register as soon as you can, it helps out the
volunteers who organize these events for us. (my .02 worth)
Newsletter editors -- please update your club members.
The information and registration forms for Southeastern Classic XV, to be held
in Tullahoma, Tennessee, over the weekend of September 13-16, can be found at
the following site:
http://www.healeyclub.org/sec15.html
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
(services on loan to the Middle Tennessee Club)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 23:26:06 EDT
Subject: Re: The Texas Cooler
In a message dated 8/2/01 6:11:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bob.beattie@dsto.defence.gov.au writes:
<< Can someone tell me what a "Texas Cooler" is >>
Hi Bob,
Glad you have an interest in both kinds of Coolers. The beer cooler and the
TX Cooler Fan. Healeys should be equipped with both. The one our club sells
is the fan, which can be seen and ordered at the North Texas AHC web site
<www.ntahc.org>
Check the Tech Tips page, as we are getting some pretty good stuff on there.
Thanks,
Don
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Hart" <jgh3rd at jps.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 18:48:23 -0500
Subject: Re: My 3000 stutters
Have points gotten that expensive? Sandpaper is fine for a roadside repair,
I'd plunk down the couple o' bucks for a new set... Just MHO...
Jim
'62 BT7 Tri Carb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 08:23:33 EDT
Subject: TX Kooler update
Listers,
This is a clip from an e-mail about the problems one of the people had on the
list. They thought it was a cause of the TX Kooler, well sometimes all the
facts are not considered.
"You are absolutely right, it is not a Texas Kooler problem."
Regards,
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "dos_gusanos" <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 08:17:00 -0600
Subject: Pertronix ignitions question
has anyone got one of these ignitions to fit on their 6 cylinder disributor?
Do they just fit the BJ8? ................................Cheers Henry
Morrison BT7's
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 11:30:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Pertronix ignitions question
Henry,
I THINK that there's different versions for the different cars. I installed
a Pertronix on my 6 cyl BJ8 with no problems. It's great! They even have
seperate versions for positive or negative ground cars. Mine's positive
ground.
Dave
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 12:16:06 EDT
Subject: Re: My 3000 stutters (mine quit)
In a message dated 8/2/01 23:52:35, jgh3rd@jps.net writes:
<< Have points gotten that expensive? Sandpaper is fine for a roadside
repair,
I'd plunk down the couple o' bucks for a new set... Just MHO...
Jim
'62 BT7 Tri Carb >>
Well, the Healey toolkits came with a tool to clean 'em up and gap 'em on the
side of the road. I was thinkin' "clean 'em up and see if that's it" then
replace or clean as you want.
By the way...my Healey just plain quit running last week. One minute it was
running, then it wasn't. no warning. just quit.
Is there a part that would die so suddenly? Condenser? I jiggled the wiring,
looked at the rotor/points, wiring. Coil wire.
Any ideas?
TIA,
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 13:03:24 EDT
Subject: mine quit
wow,
you guys are on the ball...
I could have been more specific. My fuel pump clicks away ok. Car (engine)
turns over just as normal. Ignition lights in gauge. Got's no spark.
Thanks again,
Rick
San Diego (san De-not-go)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 10:03:44 -0700
Subject: mine quit
In a message dated 8/2/01 23:52:35, jgh3rd@jps.net writes:
<< Have points gotten that expensive? Sandpaper is fine for a roadside
repair,
I'd plunk down the couple o' bucks for a new set... Just MHO...
Jim
'62 BT7 Tri Carb >>
Well, the Healey toolkits came with a tool to clean 'em up and gap 'em on
the
side of the road. I was thinkin' "clean 'em up and see if that's it" then
replace or clean as you want.
By the way...my Healey just plain quit running last week. One minute it was
running, then it wasn't. no warning. just quit.
Is there a part that would die so suddenly? Condenser? I jiggled the wiring,
looked at the rotor/points, wiring. Coil wire.
Any ideas?
I had my Taiwan special rotor crack in half once and had a similar result
(of course). I didn't even notice at first due to the 18 wheelers passing
about 3 feet away! I was amazed that it even happened.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 10:31:23 -0700
Subject: RE: mine quit
First thing I check is the ignition grounding wire at the battery cut off
switch. Make sure it isn't grounded.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 18:30:19 +0100
Subject: Thoughts on stainless steel exhaust and a supplier.
Living in the UK one gets used to slightly laissez-faire attitude
from retailers.. "here you are, off you go with it...if it's no
good, don't bother to come back as you were lucky to get it in
the first place".... So it's a pleasure to encounter something
different.
I bought a stainless exhaust system from a local manufacturer.
Their main trade is with the exotics..work for souped up
Porsches, Ferraris and other one-off work. They have produced
Healey stuff, Mks I to III, side exits etcetc. So, they can run
them again, to order, or off the shelf.
The price was excellent and, as far as I can determine, they
fitted it for free. (Cutting out the middleman sure helps).
The steel was not too light and the finish robust.
The noise - as before, per the original. Or I'm tone deaf.
Were there any problems? Yes. It may be generic to the original
design, but my MkII BT7 seems to enjoy unwelding of the little
cross-braces that strap the two pipes together as they run from
the box to the rear. It doesn't seem to matter, but it makes a
silly tinkling sort of a rattle which sounds worse than it really
is. And the new system was no different. Same unweld, same
noise....I took it back. No trouble - they stuck it up on a ramp
and spotted it back together. It happened again...they said "Ah,
we have a problem. We seem to have a slight design error. We'd
like to have the car for a couple of hours to build a better
system to hold the pipes together....maybe strap the pipes
together with a piece going all the way round etc." They said
that it was their problem and that they needed to improve their
design/product .....there would be no charge to me whatsoever.
Not bad, when you think that I've had the system for 2 yrs+/-!!
Also, we were talking about Healey exhausts in general and I said
that they were a pain to fit as the fittings on the pipes never
lined up with the connections on the car. We've all been there??
on the floor with a mouth full of washers and spacers etc?? So, I
said "The exhaust system needs to be tailored to the individual
car, not the other way round. And if the brackets on the pipes
were not fixed they could be mounted up to the car, then
tightened onto the pipes??"
"Of course" they replied and "we'd do it for anyone that wanted."
Surprised? Certainly.
These guys, Phoenix Performance Exhausts (01884-34777) are both
approachable and highly competent. Quite a rare and useful
combination. Their product is better than the ones I've purchased
in the past and their ideas...well, at least they have ideas.
Simon Young is the one I've always dealt with.
They do ship abroad.....put their name in your records.
I suppose I should say that I have zero involvement with them,
but do feel that we don't always hear about the good
suppliers/manufacturers.
Simon Lachlan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 11:07:02 -0700
Subject: Decent Mirrors & Fuel Sender Advice Needed
Hey Guys,
This is a 2 part message ... both needing advice from the experience
of the list. (ListQuest is down).
Firstly ... is there a reputable source for side rear-vision mirrors?
I have repro's (not saying who) that have begun to show surface rust
'already' after 1 year. I would be interested in orig to re-chrome
etc or a quality repro for a early BN4. Any thoughts?
Second Question ... I opened my boot yesterday to discover the smell
of fuel and then to lift the 'carpet' and see the fuel sender unit
submerged in a pool of petrol. I am guessing the gaskets need
replacing (the sender it still working) ... is there a technique or
advice here? Is there a good fuel resistant sealant to use with the
new gasket?
Thanks in advance ... sorry if this is an old question.
Rohan.
(Longbridge BN4)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 14:16:44 EDT
Subject: Re: mine quit
In a message dated 8/3/01 10:06:07 AM, WilKo@aol.com writes:
<<
wow,
you guys are on the ball...
I could have been more specific. My fuel pump clicks away ok. Car (engine)
turns over just as normal. Ignition lights in gauge. Got's no spark.
Thanks again,
Rick
San Diego (san De-not-go) >>
My two experiences with the same situation -- ran, then didn't run, but would
still turn over -- were both due to the Patented Healey Theft Protection
System -- that is, the coil grounding wire connected to the main battery
cut-out switch.
It is a single wire that connects between the cut-out and the coil. When you
turn off the battery in the trunk, you also make a connection between the
switch and the coil that prevents the ignition system from working.
If memory serves (check the wiring diagram), there is a white with black
trace wire that runs from the coil to the switch. It makes a connection
between the engine compartment wiring harness and the chassis harness just
below the fuse box. Disconnect this wire at that connection and see if that
solves your problem. if it does, then the culprit could be the cut-out
switch, or you could have a frayed harness along the chassis rail that is
allowing the wire to ground out to the chassis.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 14:26:45 EDT
Subject: Haynes manual on ebay
Someone was asking me about where to get a Haynes or Drake manual. There's
one on ebay right now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=593918737&r=
0&t=0
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 16:16:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Pertronix ignitions question
In a message dated 8/3/01 7:21:58 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dos_gusanos@msn.com writes:
<< has anyone got one of these ignitions to fit on their 6 cylinder
disributor?
Do they just fit the BJ8? ................................Cheers Henry
Morrison BT7's >>
Hi Henry,
I put one on my BJ8 about three month ago and it running just fine. Got tired
of replacing points as the plastic cam follower wore down and changed my
timming. It seems to idle a lot better with the Pertronix. They make a
positive and negative system unit.
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 15:29:00 -0500
Subject: Re: mine quit
"Freese, Ken" wrote:
> First thing I check is the ignition grounding wire at the battery cut off
> switch. Make sure it isn't grounded.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
>
> -
> Addendum to Ken's suggestion - disconnect the white wire from the coil. An
> intermittant ground through this wire will overheat the coil and cause it to
> quit - and then resume after cooling.
If that turns out to be a fix, your battery cut-off switch has an internal short
and would need replacement, OR you could leave the white wire disconnected
permanently, as it is merely an additional anti-theft gizmo.
DickB
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 16:37:50 EDT
Subject: Re: mine quit
Is the distributor shaft turning?
I had my car quit when the roll pin that connects the upper and lower parts
of the shaft gave out.
larry Wysocki
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 16:13:36 -0600
Subject: Synthetic Brake Fluid
GReetings all,
The Archives seemed down so I thought I'd bomb the list with a question.
My BJ8 has synthetic (DOT 5) brake fluid. While at the body shop it
apparently started leaking fluid from the master cyliner and the shop added
regular brake fluid.......... I recall the combination spells trouble...
I am pulling the master to rebuild and have sent the Servo to Power Brake
for a rebuild (as a matter of course - was going to anyway).....
Now... 1. Do I continue to use synthetic brake fluid.. or 2. because I now
have some regular brake fluid in the sysstem shoud I use regular brake
fluid?? or 3. ??
Thanks all.
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 17:34:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix ignitions question
I just got one for my BN4.
The earlier DM6 distributor requires a different Pertronix part number than that
used on the BJ8. For a DM6, you need LU-165P12.
I have mine installed, but haven't run the car yet.
I've seen cleaner installations. First, there is a hole in the sensor plate, for
clearance with the point gap cam screw, which is swaged permanently to the base
plate. I had to ream the sensor plate hole quite a bit to get adequate
clearance, so the plate would line up with the mounting holes. Not a show
stopper, but a chore just the same.
Next, the rubber grommet which guides the sensor leads out of the distributor
body was too small for the hole, and some other means must be invented to retain
the grommet in it's hole.
Besides, that, the instructions are a bit weak, and although not in error, they
could have been much clearer. Read carefully and you'll be ok.
The rest is a matter of making a clean job of the wiring without altering the
original harness, if that's important to you. Crimp, solder and shrink tubing
for me.
It was suggested on another thread that the Pertronix rotor raises the existing
rotor by a small amount, which is true. However, I heeded the warning to check
for vertical binding with the distributor cap.......no problem here (non-Lucas
cap).
I'm replacing the vacuum advance and the vacuum plumbing as well, and am held up
for parts til next week. I'll report later on any improvement in running
operation later. (Where can I get the correct vacuum tubing clips??)
Pertronix phone is 909-599-5955. Way cheaper than buying via M*ss......
Fred Meyer
'57 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 18:19:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix ignitions question
Pertronix # LU 165 for the negative ground unit. Works great.
Mark Fawcett
>
> has anyone got one of these ignitions to fit on their 6 cylinder
disributor?
> Do they just fit the BJ8? ................................Cheers
Henry
> Morrison BT7's
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 18:33:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix ignitions question
Ordering directly through Pertronix is NOT the way to go! They charge
full retail (as does Moss). $100 or more. Better to find a retailer
that carries Pertronix at a discounted price, usually between $60 and
$80, and order it through them. In fact, when I called Pertronix
that's what they suggested to me.
Mark Fawcett
> >
> Pertronix phone is 909-599-5955. Way cheaper than buying via
M*ss......
>
> Fred Meyer
> '57 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 20:57:38 -0500
Subject: Book
I have two copy (brand new in celo. bag) of "The Healey Story" by Geoffrey
Healey.
ISBN 0 85429 949 1
If anyone is interest. Please write off list.
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From NPaul72464 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 22:27:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Pertronix ignitions question
I know they have them for a DM6A distributor as I have one on mine. Works
great.
Ned Paulsen
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 05:06:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Big Healey 3.90 Gear Sets
Listers
I'm cleaning up a section of the garage and I'm going to eventually auction a
bunch of 3.90 (11/43) complete big Healey differentials (pumpkins). Wanted to
offer to you folks first. If you are interested please contact me off the
list for particulars.
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 08:06:13 -0600
Subject: Petrol drain
The two petrol drains at either end of the inlet manifold drop down and are
kept in place by small clip. Where were these small clips atached? I presume
it is via a bolt holding the oil pan to the bock. If so which ones? The car
did not have them when I found it.
Thanks
Ross Maylor
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 13:43:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Thoughts on stainless steel exhaust and a supplier.
Simon,
I agree with you about Phoenix Performance Exhausts. They make the SS
header now marketed by AH Spares, and I installed one on a customer's car
recently. The fit was MAGNIFICENT, and this from someone who is very picky.
I have fitted several different brands of headers to Healeys over the years,
and the Phoenix is by far the best made and easiest fitting of all,
including
DWR's. If you have an "in" with these good folks, could you please
encourage them to produce a catalog? Good (and well-fitting) performance
exhaust systems for Healeys have been hard to come by since ANSA stopped
making theirs several years ago, and I would be willing to bet that a SS
performance
system in the quality Phoenix produces would sell like hotcakes.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred "Ooman" <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 11:31:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re-veneering the dash. Questions & Answers..
Ive just re-finished the passenger side dash on my 67 BJ8 and am getting ready
to start the driver side. While I have the dash out Id also like a bit of
painting done by the hood area. Since Im having that done Id also like to
replace the windshield rubber. Since Im doing all that I have a few questions.
What is involved in removing the driver side dash? Does the steering column
need to be moved? If I plug the temp sensor hole can I still drive the car to
the paint shop?
What is involved in removing the windshield? Is it just the center bolt and
the side bolts? Can one person do the job?
In re-veneering the passenger dash, the toughest part was cutting the door and
the surround from the same piece of veneer. I used a Dremmel-like rotary tool,
which made the job easier (I got the Black & Decker model, seems more powerful
and has a great spindle lock). But then the problem was placing the veneer
down properly; it is an extremely close fit. Using contact glue you have one
shot at laying down the veneer with no room for error. Fortunately I read
about a great fool-proof method.
The trick is to use a wood glue, let it dry, and then iron down the veneer
Veneer prep: Cut the veneer to the desired size and shape of the object
to be veneered, plus a bit of overlap if available. There was zero overlap on
the door or its cut-out.
Glue application: "Heavily coat" both the substrate and the back of the veneer
with glue. Before setting aside to dry, use a spray bottle to dampen the face
side of the veneer with water, to prevent the veneer from curling too much.
Drying: In the article, the author allowed the glue to dry for 30 minutes
before bonding, but you can wait much longer. I used Titebond II.
After the glue dried, I placed the veneer down and ironed away
Ironing the Veneer: Since this is the most crucial part, I'll quote from the
article: "[After drying] I placed the veneer with some overhang all around.
Then, using a steam iron on the cotton setting, I pressed the veneer firmly and
worked from the center out. I kept the pressure steady and the iron moving
slowly. Looking for any gaps or open seams, I went over the veneer several
times, allowing the iron to linger over any trouble spots. If you leave too
much overhang on the veneer, the edges could curl away from the substrate,
preventing a clean, tight job. To remedy this, limit overhang to 1/8", and
apply steam from the iron. The steam causes the veneer to expand on the face
side, which allows it to lay flat again. ...The heat from the iron should drive
out excess moisture from the glue, which might otherwise bubble up under the
veneer. Steam also works to temporarily release the veneer when you want to
reposition it or when you need to iron out bubbles or blisters."
There may be some light surface scorching after ironing. These can be easily
removed with a light scraping or sanding after the glue has cured.
This worked real well for me. Details in Fine Woodworking No. 108, Oct. 1994.
Notes: The following PVA type glues can be used...
Glue Type /Reactivation Temp / Max. dry time before reactivation:
White Glue (Elmers) / 800 (below "Delicate" setting)/ Infinite.
Yellow Glue (Elmer's wood glue, Titebond) / 2500 (between "Delicate" & "Wool")
/a week or so.
Waterproof Yellow Glue (Elmers Waterproof Wood Glue, Titebond II) / 3500
("Cotton" to "Linen") / 72 hours.
Ive used the Envirotex Lite gloss finish. This has been giving me problems
with tiny bubbles. Called them and they gave me a few tips; Ill apply another
coat this weekend and see if they work. The only problem is that the finish is
getting a bit thick, may have to stretch the chassis to get the dash to fit
back in.
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 14:53:35 -0500
Subject: rendezvous 2001 -- grants pass oregon
bill and pat bolton and the oregon ah club members outdid themselves once again.
the weather was absolutely delightful, the healeys were outstanding and the
featured guests, margot healey and john sprinzel truly superb.
the jet boat ride down the rouge river to hellsgate canyon is spectacular. if
you are ever in the area, don't miss the chance to take the ride.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 23:05:56 +0100
Subject: More details of the UK 2002 50th Anniversary event now released
The full comprehensive programme and description (with photographs) of
the base venue are now published on the UK AHC web site.
On line booking facilities will be available in the next few weeks.
Time to book that UK tour you've always promised yourself!
http://www.austin-healey-club.com - click the gold button.
Alan F Cross (H-BJ8-L/41672 aka "Ginny")
Webmaster for the UK's national Austin Healey Club at:
http://www.austin-healey-club.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From l-dkirby <l-dkirby at home.com>
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 15:07:21 -0700
Subject: List
I have not been receiving any messages from the list for the last three
days. I am wondering if there is aproblem with my subscription or has
the list been down? Looking forwrd to your reply. Len
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mjsprite at aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 22:45:00 EDT
Subject: bugeye wiring
Hey listers,
Installing a wiring harness in a 58 bugeye and could use a wiring layout. I
have a good wiring diagram that shows what connects to what, but am in need
of the physical routing of the harness. This car was subject to numerous
alterations and would like to get things back to normal. Detailed photos or
sketches would be of enormous help.
Also, I'm going to northern Wisconsin next month, Bayfield and Rhinelander,
any listers or cars in the area?
As always,
Thanks!
Mike
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 20:35:39 EDT
Subject: Re: bugeye wiring
In a message dated 8/6/01 8:34:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Mjsprite@aol.com
writes:
<< Hey listers,
Installing a wiring harness in a 58 bugeye and could use a wiring layout. I
have a good wiring diagram that shows what connects to what, but am in need
of the physical routing of the harness. >>
Wow--
this is the first piece of email off the Healey list in 3 or 4 days. Has it
been down or something?
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 18:34:23 -0400
Subject: Re: bugeye wiring
A reminder to all.
thanks to Mike Steve Carlos and David
My signal brake lights gas gauge problem.
I have to remember to clean the contacts on the fuse box every once in a
while. When I did that and replaced the fuse everything magically worked.
I went further and cleaned every contact from the battery to the coil to the
starter to the plugs to the distributor and applied dielectric grease. What
a difference a good connection makes.
Now one more intermittent problem. The return springs/weights in the
distributor stuck the other day. After some fidling everything was fine.
Took the dist out checked everything-springs and weights worked well on the
bench. Everything was fine for a few days then today went to start the car
and there was not spark. Took the cap off, flipped the rotor, put it back
together and away we go.
Any thoughts?
Carl A. Rubino
ruvino@recorder.ca
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 16:42:36 -0500
Subject: Temperature guage
Hi,
My temperature guage suddenly started registering temperatures well below what
it used to. My BT7 has always run steadily at 190 degrees, but suddenly
started showing 140 instead. It will sometimes run up to 160 after I shut it
off.
I don't think it could actually be running at that temperature (could it?) but
I don't know how to go about figuring out what is wrong or debugging the guage
or whatever? fwiw, it also recently sometimes exhibits a small white cloud
from the exhaust just after starting when it has been sitting hot after
driving it.
Any suggestions?
btw, I just drove back to Chicagoland from North Carolina (in my honda :-( )
and saw a red 3000 with the top up somewhere in Ky, I think, on route 75. Only
one I saw in 1600 miles there and back. I was thinking that would be good
driving territory for the Healey. Was that anyone on the list?
Thanks very much,
Terry Disz
62 BT7 Tri Carb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From A2Garrison at aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 20:55:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Side curtain stowage bag for BN7
Bruce
I bought mine from Hemphills about 5 years ago and am happy with it. Both
side screens fit in it nicely without removing anything, including the wing
nuts. There is a center panel to separate and protect the screens from each
other. The last I saw it was selling for about 85 bucks.
Alan Garrison
BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 10:25:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Book-NOT Healey
<<And I have an autographed copy of "The Last Open Road" NOT FOR SALE
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
BIG SNIGGER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!>>
Fine, Rick. Since ALL of the org. posts where only on the thickos list YOU
may answer answer ALL questions regarding YOUR mis-directed post.
PS: And I WILL forward any that come to me for you to handle.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAWDAWGS at aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 21:37:16 EDT
Subject: Portland rally
Anybody on the list doing the rally next weekend that starts in downtown
Portland (Ore.) and apparently goes out through the Long Beach peninsula on
the Washington Coast? SM (visiting Cannon Beach)
BTW Saw Tweety and a red 100-4(?) heading north on 101 around Nehalem last
Sat must have been returning from Grants Pass.
Scott McPherson
100-6 BN4 Longbridge
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 21:34:38 -0400
Subject: List
It has apparently been down all weekend as I am now getting emails posted as
early as August 4
A test that I sent yesterday was returned as undeliverable but all appears ok
now.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 19:12:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Temperature guage
Terry-
Yes, unfortunately, I would worry about a leaky head gasket or cracked
cylinder head. The small white cloud could be steam being generated
in the cylinders :-( and one reason for low temps could be because
your water level is too low for the sensor to pick up the overheated
remainder.
You don't want to hear my sad tale of how I came by this 'knowledge'.
Check compression, check water level in radiator and look for signs of
oil in water, etc. You can pull the temp sensor (it's a chore, check
the archives) and check it in a cup of boiling water to see if your
gauge has gone crazy and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
-Roland
San Diego
BJ7 driver
BN1, in recovery
On Mon, 6 Aug 2001 16:42:36 -0500, "Terry Disz" <tdisz@starband.net>
wrote:
:: My temperature guage suddenly started registering temperatures well below
:what
:: it used to. My BT7 has always run steadily at 190 degrees, but suddenly
:: started showing 140 instead. It will sometimes run up to 160 after I shut it
:: off.
::
:: I don't think it could actually be running at that temperature (could it?)
:but
:: I don't know how to go about figuring out what is wrong or debugging the
:guage
:: or whatever? fwiw, it also recently sometimes exhibits a small white cloud
:: from the exhaust just after starting when it has been sitting hot after
:: driving it.
::
:: Any suggestions?
:
:: Terry Disz
::
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Silas Elash <selash at homeworld.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 16:03:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Haynes Manual?
I have a subjective question to ask.
How hard to find are the Haynes Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 Owners Workshop
Manuals?
What is a fair price for one?
I am looking at one on ebay and would like to have one, but have
NO perspective on at what one can be obtained for. If they can be
easily obtained at all. I see things on ebay go for prices that do not
reflect availability and value.
Don't want to make that mistake. Also don't mind paying a fair price.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Silas
62 BJ7
----------------------------------------------------
Silas Elash
silas.elash@eng.sun.com phone: 408-774-8720
Sun Microsystems
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "CRD" <crd at iserv.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 22:50:08 -0400
Subject: Sprite
Anyone from the list aware of the blue '61 sprite on Ebay? If so, I would
appreciate a contact off list. I know someone that is interested, but would
like to see close up.
Rick
GR8BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 20:18:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual?
The Haynes manual is out of print and very hard to come by. If you really
want one you'll have to pay.
Al Adams
'59 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Silas Elash" <selash@homeworld.Eng.Sun.COM>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 4:03 PM
Subject: Haynes Manual?
>
> I have a subjective question to ask.
>
> How hard to find are the Haynes Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 Owners Workshop
> Manuals?
>
> What is a fair price for one?
>
> I am looking at one on ebay and would like to have one, but have
> NO perspective on at what one can be obtained for. If they can be
> easily obtained at all. I see things on ebay go for prices that do not
> reflect availability and value.
> Don't want to make that mistake. Also don't mind paying a fair price.
> Anyone have any thoughts?
>
> Silas
>
> 62 BJ7
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Silas Elash
> silas.elash@eng.sun.com phone: 408-774-8720
> Sun Microsystems
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 22:02:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual?
I must have got lucky. I bought one off the shelf at an auto parts
store for $19.95 just six months ago.
Mark Fawcett
> The Haynes manual is out of print and very hard to come by. If you
really
> want one you'll have to pay.
> Al Adams
> '59 BT7
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Silas Elash" <selash@homeworld.Eng.Sun.COM>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 4:03 PM
> Subject: Haynes Manual?
>
>
> >
> > I have a subjective question to ask.
> >
> > How hard to find are the Haynes Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 Owners
Workshop
> > Manuals?
> >
> > What is a fair price for one?
> >
> > I am looking at one on ebay and would like to have one, but have
> > NO perspective on at what one can be obtained for. If they can be
> > easily obtained at all. I see things on ebay go for prices that do
not
> > reflect availability and value.
> > Don't want to make that mistake. Also don't mind paying a fair
price.
> > Anyone have any thoughts?
> >
> > Silas
> >
> > 62 BJ7
> > ----------------------------------------------------
> > Silas Elash
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 21:56:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual?
If you are looking for the best reference you really need the Bentley manual. I
think the Haynes is short on some details.
Bill Lawrence
Allen Adams wrote:
> The Haynes manual is out of print and very hard to come by. If you really
> want one you'll have to pay.
> Al Adams
> '59 BT7
> ->
> > I have a subjective question to ask.
> >
> > How hard to find are the Haynes Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 Owners Workshop
> > Manuals?
> >
> > What is a fair price for one?
> >
> > Silas
> >
> > 62 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 23:37:12 -0700
Subject: 100 flywheel
Where is the flywheel mark for TDC ?
The archives haven't been available for several days.
TIA
Lou Galper
55 BN1
San Diego AH club
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan Schultz <aschultz at uwsa.edu>
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 07:04:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Temperature guage
Make sure the water level is up in the radiator. Leave radiator cap off. Run the
engine up to 140 or 150. Insert thermometer in water to check temp.
> < but suddenly
> started showing 140 instead. It will sometimes run up to 160>
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
aschultz.vcf]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAntal243 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 07:17:35 EDT
Subject: Switch Failure
Greeting Fellow Sufferers,
The Prince of Darkness paid me a visit a few nights ago while I was
cruising in Northern Maine at midnight. The headlights, panel lights, tail
lights and parking lights all failed within a few seconds of beginning to
dim. I was following my Healey buddy and since there was no traffic at that
time, I stayed close and followed him the ten miles home, cut the battery
switch and went to bed cursing my misfortune.
Inspection in the morning revealed that the wires attached to the light
switch were cooked--melted and fused together. I slit the harness and traced
them back about 18 inches to where I could separate them, cut off the dead
wire and spliced in new wire. My friend Bob Bartlett had a used wiper switch
and utilizing that, I was able to get the lights working and return to New
Hampshire. Testing of the light switch that had failed revealed that it would
conduct no current in any position and I theorize that it had failed
internally and provided so much resistance to the brown wire bringing current
from the voltage regulator that the brown wire melted and took adjacent wires
with it. How can I prevent a recurrence? What size fuses do I need to splice
inline to individually fuse each headlight, and the tail lights and the
switch of course? Thanks for your help. And oh, by the way, after I put
everything back in order with a NOS light switch and reinstalled the console
and all the stuff I had to remove to get at the harness, I drove a couple of
miles and radiator fluid began pouring out of the heater box valve into the
cockpit; the same valve that I had painfully replaced 5 years ago. So much
for the quality of replacement parts. Time to get out the Motrin and a
dictionary of new curse words.
Rich Antal
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 12:00:51 -0400
Subject: Healey 100
I have an opportunity to buy a 100 BN2. Being a long time MG owner I know
very little about Healeys
except that I think the 100 is one of the coolest looking cars ever built.
I did buy a buyers guide that mentions that the 100's are hard riding and
hot in the footwell. Are they any harder riding than my TD ? Is the heat
problem fixable with extra insulation, cooling vents etc? I can't answer
these questions for myself because the car is not drivable as the engine
(which needs rebuilding) and transmission are out of it.
The body is in reasonably good shape with some dents and scrapes, faded
light blue paint (which looks like it might be the original paint as are
the seats which are worn and cracked) but there is no visible signs of
rust.
Another concern I have is parts availability, mechanical parts in
particular. For example,I have a Moss Motors catalog which shows that no
internal parts are available for the 4 speed side shift transmission.
Any thoughts, specific or general, as to the wisdom of this purchase would
be welcome.
Thanks,
Gene
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 12:23:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual?
In a message dated 8/6/01 23:37:54, ynotink@qwest.net writes:
<<
If you are looking for the best reference you really need the Bentley manual.
I
think the Haynes is short on some details. >>
While many books such as the Bentley and others may be more detailed, the
Drake/Haynes has strengths that come from it's format. It is very detailed in
it's procedure descriptions and the step-by-step technical writing is easy to
follow (even for a novice).
The book also contains the generic sections on things like reading tire wear
and spark plugs (topics that are occasionally covered on this list)
For me, personally, the chapter on tuning SU HD6 carbs is where the light
finally turned on and I was able to grasp the workings of the two-stage choke
control and the slow running screw. That was back when I was about 20.
Those are reasons that some of us folks acually like the Haynes manual.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 13:29:42 -0400
Subject: Fw: Haynes Manual?
----- Original Message -----
From: "healey6" <healey6@optonline.net>
To: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual?
> Yes - Bentley first but the Haynes is a good addition to anyone's Healey
> library. Also valuable is the Autopress book which gives torque wrench
> settings. It has been out of print for years but I just got one on ebay
for
> $18.00 - last printing aroundf 1971.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> To: "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr@earthlink.net>
> Cc: "Healey INFO Transfer Site" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 11:56 PM
> Subject: Re: Haynes Manual?
>
>
> >
> > If you are looking for the best reference you really need the Bentley
> manual. I
> > think the Haynes is short on some details.
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> >
> > Allen Adams wrote:
> >
> > > The Haynes manual is out of print and very hard to come by. If you
> really
> > > want one you'll have to pay.
> > > Al Adams
> > > '59 BT7
> > > ->
> > > > I have a subjective question to ask.
> > > >
> > > > How hard to find are the Haynes Austin Healey 100/6 & 3000 Owners
> Workshop
> > > > Manuals?
> > > >
> > > > What is a fair price for one?
> > > >
> > > > Silas
> > > >
> > > > 62 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 10:57:51 -0700
Subject: 300 Now Registered for 2002 Helaey International
300 now registered for the June 2002
Healey International at Lake Tahoe
Registration started July 1, 2001
SUNNYVALE California (USA) -August 5, 2001 - With more than 10 months to go
before opening day of the OpenRoads 2002 Healey International at Lake
Tahoe, more than 300 registration numbers for the event have already been
issued and paid for, leading some to speculate that the international
meeting of Healey owners and enthusiasts next year will turn out to be the
largest meeting of its type ever held.
The OpenRoads 2002 Healey International will be hosted by the Golden Gate
Austin Healey Club at the Horizon Hotel and Casino in Stateline, Nevada, on
the South Shore of Lake Tahoe. The event will run from Sunday June 23,
2002 to Friday June 28, 2002. OpenRoads 2002 celebrates the 50th
anniversary of the first Austin-Healey, the 100, and the popularity and
longevity of all Austin-Healeys, Austin-Healey Sprites and Jensen-Healeys,
as well as all Healeys built prior to 1952. Registration for the five-day
event opened July 1, 2001.
New registrations for the event can be made using the OpenRoads 2002 web
site at http://www.healey2002.com. Registration forms will also be printed
in the July 2001 issue of Healey Marque and the August 2001 issue of Austin
Healey Magazine. Forms will also be distributed to local clubs in the US
and Canada, and to clubs in Europe and Australia by the end of the summer.
Registration is $89 per car (one registration number/two adults) additional
cars and registration numbers are $30 each; additional registrants are $30
each. All prices are US dollars. Rooms are still available at the Horizon
starting Sunday, June 23, 2002 for $89 (US) per night (2 adults per room);
$99 (three adults); $109 (four). Golden Gate has also contracted with the
Horizon for rooms at event rates for the weekends before and after the
event, subject to room availability.
OpenRoads 2002 promises to be the ultimate Healey vacation. There will be
an all-day Popular Choice car show at South Lake Tahoe (California) High
School, a day of competitive speed trials at the Lake Tahoe Airport under
the direction of the Competition Sports Car Club of Sacramento, and a
challenging TSD rallye though western Nevada. Also planned are a day-long
around the Lake tour, a number of self-guided tours of the Sierras, Mono
Lake and Virginia City, and two awards dinners. Already a number of invited
guests, including Margo Healey, Bic and Mary Healey, John and Joy Healey
and Gerry and Marion Coker have accepted invitations to attend. Six Healey
boats will be on the lake providing tours on Tuesday and Wednesday of the
meet.
For real-time updates about OpenRoads Healey International 2002, and for
information on Lake Tahoe and the Horizon, go to the Event web site at
www.healey2002.com. Information is also available through the Golden Gate
Austin Healey Club newsletter, Golden Gate Healey Happenings.
###
Contact: John Trifari
OpenRoads 2002
408-541-9608
408-541-9320 FAX
408-373-6479 Cellphone
john4@home.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 11:17:13 -0700
Subject: Re: 100 flywheel
Hey Lou-
It's at top dead center :-) Sorry, I couldn't resist.
It is a mark that says: 1/4 (the / is actually a vertical line longer
than the 1 and 4 are tall). It is located on the bevelled surface of
the flywheel, farthest from the engine block.
-Roland
'53 BN1 with engine on stand
On Mon, 06 Aug 2001 23:37:12 -0700, Louis Galper <lgalper1@home.com>
wrote:
::
:: Where is the flywheel mark for TDC ?
::
:: Lou Galper
:: 55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JAnde63063 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 14:45:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Sprite
Go to Hendrixwirewheel.com. There is a white 60 Bugeye for sale
Jerry Anderson
JH-5 1975
BN4 1957
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 06:14:59 EDT
Subject: test
test
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 18:26:58 -0400
Subject: test no content
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 06:38:55 -0600
Subject: Thanks - Subject: Synthetic Brake Fluid
Thanks all that responded (thanks Dave for the Silicon vs. synthetic
clarification). Working away (albeit slowly).
Cheers.
JIm Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Silas Elash <selash at homeworld.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 18:22:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Repost: Haynes Manual
Listers,
I am looking at a Haynes manual on ebay for the 100/3000.
I have no idea how easily one can accuire one of these, or
what is a fair price. I see lots of things go on ebay for
a higher price than you can go and buy them for. Don't want
to find out later that they are plentiful and cheaper.
Don't mind paying a fair price at all. Just have
no perspective. Can any one help?
Thanks!
Silas
62 BJ7
----------------------------------------------------
Silas Elash
silas.elash@eng.sun.com phone: 408-774-8720
Sun Microsystems
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred "Ooman" <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 15:22:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Repeat question? Repeat question?
Please forgive this duplicate request, but it seems that mail is not getting
through my usual mail account (server by Lucas?).
I could use information on removing the driver side dash from a BJ8. The car
is my main transportation so any tricks and tips that can keep the down time to
a minimum would help. At the same time Id like to have a little paint work
done, so I need to know if I plug the temp sensor hole can I still drive?
At the same time I should replace the rubber at bottom the windshield frame.
Is this a one-person job or is the frame too unwieldy for just me?
If you could send response to fko@aol.com Id appreciate it.
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 09:44:10 -0600
Subject: RE: Petrol drain
Ross,
I'm attaching an earlier post of mine for your reference. This is for a
BJ8 so use accordingly...
Regards,
Adnan
*****************************************************************
Hi,
Just an FYI in case it's of interest:
On a BJ8 the intake manifold drain tubes are attached to the block by
brackets. The location for these is third from the front and third from
the rear (there are a total of nine bolts on the left side).
Per Roger's suggestion, I checked with Tom Kovacs to verify this. Thanks
to all who offered input on this question.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Maylor [mailto:obiedog@telusplanet.net]
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 7:06 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: Petrol drain
The two petrol drains at either end of the inlet manifold drop down and are
kept in place by small clip. Where were these small clips atached? I presume
it is via a bolt holding the oil pan to the bock. If so which ones? The car
did not have them when I found it.
Thanks
Ross Maylor
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Nick and Alexis Zarkades <zdesign at mediaone.net>
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 19:41:02 +0000
Subject: list
Is the list down?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 22:27:49 EDT
Subject: wazzup?
Is the list ashut down? I have not seen anything in the last day...
Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 16:14:39 -0700
Subject: List offline or just me?
I haven't gotten anything from the lists in a couple of days. Are the lists
down or is it just my problem?
Please respond directly to me as a list response won't get to me.
Thanks,
George Castleberry
1954 BN1-L/157155
AHCUSA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tom Johnson <johnsont12 at excite.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 16:13:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Tachometer Problem
Can someone out there help with a tachometer problem? The tach. on my 1966
BJ8 seems to read approx. twice as much as it should. I'm sure that it is
the original tach. on the car. It's a Smiths 6 cyl RVI 2602/00A. Could it be
wired up incorrectly? Or can it be adjusted?
Thanks Tom.
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 15:40:19 -0400
Subject: Workshop Manuals
As most of you know, I had mostly 4 cylinder Healeys in my garage over the
years,
but I do have the following manuals which I would like to sell from my
Library of
items:
Haynes Austin-Healey 100/6 & 3000 Owners Workshop Manual $30.00
Robert Bentley "The Complete official AH 100-six and 3000
40.00
Drake's Austin-Healey 100/6 Workshop Manual
20.00
Glenn's Austin/Austin-Healey Repair and Tune-up Guide
10.00
Haynes SU Carburettors Owners Workshop Manual
10.00
Austin-Healey 100/6 3000 Workshop Manual AKD1179B
50.00
Austin -Healey 100/6 3000 Workshop Manual AKD1179
50.00
All are in excellent condition with the exception of the Haynes
Carburettors which has a soiled condition, but is certainly good
for the Mechanic's bench.
Anyone interested in any of these contact me on-line or write to:
Bill Wood
PO Box 448
Egremont, Massachusetts 01258
413-528-3919
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 22:35:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Temperature guage
Terry,
Sounds like your thermostat has gone south (as in "not closing"). That
would certainly be the easiest and cheapest thing to investigate first. If
a thermometer in the radiator shows the same reading as the gauge the
stat is the culprit.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Disz" <tdisz@starband.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 5:42 PM
> Subject: Temperature guage
>
>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > My temperature guage suddenly started registering temperatures well
below
> what
> > it used to. My BT7 has always run steadily at 190 degrees, but suddenly
> > started showing 140 instead. It will sometimes run up to 160 after I
shut
> it
> > off.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 21:36:20 -0400
Subject: Re: List
Hi, Len -
For some reason, I got booted off the list. After no traffic at all
throughout the weekend and all day Monday, I finally wised up and sent a
subscription message to majordomo. I was surprised when my subscription was
accepted. I wondered if anyone else had that experience, and what the
reason might be. You must still be signed up, of course, or I woudn't have
received your message below.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "l-dkirby" <l-dkirby@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 6:07 PM
Subject: List
>
> I have not been receiving any messages from the list for the last three
> days. I am wondering if there is aproblem with my subscription or has
> the list been down? Looking forwrd to your reply. Len
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tom Johnson <johnsont12 at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 13:20:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Tachometer Problem
Can someone out there help me with a tachometer problem?
The tach. on my 1966 BJ8 seems to read twice as much as it should. I'm sure
it's the original tach. on the car. It's a Smiths 6 cyl RV1 2602/00A. Could
it be wired up incorrectly? Or can it be adjusted?
Thanks Tom
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 16:27:41 -0400
Subject: Re: List
Steve,
I THINK the way the list works, is that anyone could send a message (from
any address) and it would be broadcast. The signing up process only defines
who the messages get broadcast to. At least I believe this is how it works.
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 9:36 PM
Subject: Re: List
>
> Hi, Len -
>
> For some reason, I got booted off the list. After no traffic at all
> throughout the weekend and all day Monday, I finally wised up and sent a
> subscription message to majordomo. I was surprised when my subscription
was
> accepted. I wondered if anyone else had that experience, and what the
> reason might be. You must still be signed up, of course, or I woudn't
have
> received your message below.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tom Johnson <johnsont12 at excite.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 13:39:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Tachometer Problem
Dave:
My tach. reads the same all the time, but it reads approx. twice as much as
it should.....Tom
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 18:08:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer Problem
Hi Tom,
The problem that you have with your tach is fairly common.
As I understand it the electronics used it these units are fairly
primitive by today's standards and they change characteristics with age
and temperature.
Inside each unit you will find a variable potentiometer which can be
adjusted to make the tach more accurate but you will probably find that
as it ages the rate of change in accuracy will increase.
I have also found that as they age the accuracy changes considerably
with temperature. The hotter the tachometer the higher the reading.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Katz <bkatz at handsonresearch.com>
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 15:18:43 -0700
Subject: Re: List
That's not true Dave. You have to be signed up for the list server to
accept your messages in the first place.
----------------------
At 01:27 PM 8/7/2001, you wrote:
>Steve,
>
>I THINK the way the list works, is that anyone could send a message (from
>any address) and it would be broadcast. The signing up process only defines
>who the messages get broadcast to. At least I believe this is how it works.
>
>Dave
>BJ8
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 9:36 PM
>Subject: Re: List
>
>
> >
> > Hi, Len -
> >
> > For some reason, I got booted off the list. After no traffic at all
> > throughout the weekend and all day Monday, I finally wised up and sent a
> > subscription message to majordomo. I was surprised when my subscription
>was
> > accepted. I wondered if anyone else had that experience, and what the
> > reason might be. You must still be signed up, of course, or I woudn't
>have
> > received your message below.
> >
> > Steve Byers
> > HBJ8L/36666
> > BJ8 Registry
> > Havelock, NC USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From barrfox1 at netscape.net
Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 18:51:46 -0400
Subject: Re: list
Yep, I got booted off last weekend and had to re-up
Don't know what happened.
Bill
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 18:52:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Tachometer Problem
Hey Tom,
A year ago my electronic tach was going bonkers. I took it apart and
resoldered all the internal connections. That cured it...or so it seemed. It
DID fix some intermittant problems with it, but now mine now reads twice the
RPM....but ONLY when it's very hot. If it's cool outside, it's perfect. With
mine it is a heat related problem. Does yours do it all the time? I'm
thinking of replacing any capacitors in the unit. As capacitors are the
first parts to go in old electronics. Any thoughts from anyone else?
Also...does anyone have a schematic of the internal workings of the tach?
Dave
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Johnson" <johnsont12@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 7:13 PM
Subject: Tachometer Problem
>
> Can someone out there help with a tachometer problem? The tach. on my 1966
> BJ8 seems to read approx. twice as much as it should. I'm sure that it is
> the original tach. on the car. It's a Smiths 6 cyl RVI 2602/00A. Could it
be
> wired up incorrectly? Or can it be adjusted?
>
> Thanks Tom.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From carterh <carterh at exis.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 20:50:23 -0400
Subject: Oil Pump and Clutch Slave
Is there anyway to prime my oil pump without the glob of grease or Vaseline
solution? Especially after its been installed, oil pan closed and engine back
in the car?
Also I'm in need of a clutch slave cylinder and an oil pan for my 67 BJ8.
Anyone have these?
Hal Carter
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From frank filangeri <ffilangeri at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 21:13:38 -0400
Subject: Fw: Re: Tachometer Problem
Tom,
I have repaired many Healey electronic tachs with the same problem. See
the post below and it describes the problem and the fix.
"The problem with these was that as they aged they would begin to read
high (as much as 3500 rpm!! on some I saw) and get progressively worse.
The problem turned out to be a capacitor that was becoming electrically
leaky with age and not doing its job blocking the DC voltage component of
the signal being sent to the meter movement hence the high initial
"offset". If you can open your tach, look for a capacitor marked ".2 uf"
(uf =micro farad). It should be a tubular device about 3/8" diameter X
5/8" long probably reddish or black in color. I will most likely have
one lead out of each end and mounted to the circuit board on end
(standing up). You can get an adequate replacement at Radio Shack in a
.22 uf value. Should be rated for at least 25volts DC. Higher is
better. The ones I have had in the past are green in color, have both
leads out of the same end and are shaped sort of like an overgrown tooth.
Cost all of about $2.00 for a two pack. Unsolder or clip out the old
one and solder in the new. No polarity to worry about, either direction
will do.
If this turns out to be the problem and the tach then appears to work it
must then be calibrated. There is an adjustable pot on the back of the
circuit board with a small scewdriver slot facing the inside of the back
of the tach case. I drill a 1/2" hole in the tach case at that location
so I can access the adjustment with the unit fully assembled. Reconnect
in the car then just compare it to a know good tach/dwell meter and
slowly adjust the pot to read the same at 1000, 2000 and 3000rpm. Should
be good everywhere after that. Tape over the hole when done to keep out
dust and moisture."
Good luck and let me know how you make out.
Frank
On Tue, 31 Jul 2001 06:48:05 -0400 "M. Gottschalch" <megott@ufl.edu>
writes:
> frank filangeri wrote:
> >
On Mon, 6 Aug 2001 16:13:35 -0700 (PDT) Tom Johnson
<johnsont12@excite.com> writes:
>
> Can someone out there help with a tachometer problem? The tach. on
> my 1966
> BJ8 seems to read approx. twice as much as it should. I'm sure that
> it is
> the original tach. on the car. It's a Smiths 6 cyl RVI 2602/00A.
> Could it be
> wired up incorrectly? Or can it be adjusted?
>
> Thanks Tom.
>
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 12:02:55 +1000
Subject: Re: Oil Pump and Clutch Slave
Hi,
Read the excellent NTAHC tech tip, written by Adnan Merchant, at
http://www.ntahc.org/techtips/PreLube1.html
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "carterh" <carterh@exis.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 10:50 AM
Subject: Oil Pump and Clutch Slave
> Is there anyway to prime my oil pump without the glob of grease or
Vaseline solution? Especially after its been installed, oil pan closed and
engine back in the car?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 22:00:58 -0500
Subject: Steering Box
I finally got my car home and now I am beginning to address some of it's
problems. Of most concern at this point is the steering box. It has a
large amount of play in the motion of the steering wheel. Additionally when
driving on a straight a level road it has a great tendency to "float" from
side to side. Subtle attempts to correct often result in over correction
making it look as if I were drunk. Although I admit to being in such a
condition on the rare occasion this is not the case at the moment. I had
the front suspension and brakes rebuilt prior to taking delivery and an
alignment was done. It does look like the front wheels have no tow in and
perhaps a little tow out. Where should I start looking. It is a early BN1,
will a later steering box fit?
Mark
Nashville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 21:53:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Healey 100
Gene -
Get it!! You can get most parts for the car, you just
have to be a little more creative than just cracking
the Moss catalogue for the hard to find stuff. There
are suppliers all over the world that cater to
Healeys, and good used parts are always plentiful and
relatively easy to come by. The only challenge about
having these cars is knowing where to look for what
part, but in general, this list is excellent for that.
The heat in the 100s are significantly less than in
the 3000s, and is relatively bearable in less than 95
degree heat. A little extra insulation & sealant
around the transmission tunnel will go along way.
The car is not really all that hard riding, and in
fact handles amazingly well. My BN1 handles much
better than the 3000 - with modern tires it can hold
the road almost as good as a modern car.
Regards (from a former MG owner),
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- eugene faust <ejfaust@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
> I have an opportunity to buy a 100 BN2. Being a
> long time MG owner I know
> very little about Healeys
> except that I think the 100 is one of the coolest
> looking cars ever built.
> I did buy a buyers guide that mentions that the
> 100's are hard riding and
> hot in the footwell. Are they any harder riding
> than my TD ? Is the heat
> problem fixable with extra insulation, cooling vents
> etc? I can't answer
> these questions for myself because the car is not
> drivable as the engine
> (which needs rebuilding) and transmission are out of
> it.
>
> The body is in reasonably good shape with some dents
> and scrapes, faded
> light blue paint (which looks like it might be the
> original paint as are
> the seats which are worn and cracked) but there is
> no visible signs of
> rust.
>
> Another concern I have is parts availability,
> mechanical parts in
> particular. For example,I have a Moss Motors
> catalog which shows that no
> internal parts are available for the 4 speed side
> shift transmission.
>
> Any thoughts, specific or general, as to the wisdom
> of this purchase would
> be welcome.
>
> Thanks,
> Gene
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 21:56:26 -0700
Subject: The List
Steve: I see trouble brewing :-). I thought that you were talking to me.
You talking to me?? Then I scanned down and found that there is l-dkirby,
another Len, on The List. I may need to change my signature.
Even though it appears that your response was to another Len, re: The List, I
will comment anyway.
I do not understand what the problem with The List is because I have been
checking my mail every day, even during my trip to Rendezvous 2001 in Grants
Pass. I received mail every day I was there, Mon, Jul 30 thru Thur, Aug 2. I
did not receive any mail on Friday but have received mail every day since.
The comments on The
List indicate a lack of mail for several days. That has not been the
situation in my case. The fact that you were dropped from the list could
account for your not receiving mail. Perhaps the others are/were in the same
boat. ? ? ? ?
The Other Len
Vacaville, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 14:51:59 +0100
Subject: Re: 100 flywheel
Louis
>
>Where is the flywheel mark for TDC ?
>
It is marked on the outside edge of the large heavy flange. However this
is not much use on a 100 because there is no window in the gearbox
casing. There is an aperture on the Austin 16 gearbox where the flywheel
was first in general use but this not much use to you.
You are going to have to create a new TDC mark somewhere. Unless you
wish to remove the head and use a dial gauge you will have to use
something in a spark plug hole. I have seen mechanical devices that
touch the top of the piston. Alternatively an adaptor in a plug hole
with a length of small diameter transparent pipe attached can be used if
a small amount of engine oil is put into the pipe before fitting into
the head.
All the best
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 03:32:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Steering Box
Mark -
If I am not mistaken (I often am, unfortunately), all
healey steering boxes are made to adjust to take up
the slack from wear. Definitely go through this
procedure before spending the $$$$ & installation
grief for a new box that you may not need.
I can't quite recall how the BN1 box adjustment works,
but there should be some sort of nut on top of the box
which will adjust the hieght of the peg - &
consequently take up the slack.
By the way, a later steering box definitely WILL NOT
fit a BN1 - BN1s are a couple inches shorter than the
six cylinders, and the steering boxes are about an
inch shorter than the six cyl models.
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Mark Endicott <mendicott@home.com> wrote:
>
> I finally got my car home and now I am beginning to
> address some of it's
> problems. Of most concern at this point is the
> steering box. It has a
> large amount of play in the motion of the steering
> wheel. Additionally when
> driving on a straight a level road it has a great
> tendency to "float" from
> side to side. Subtle attempts to correct often
> result in over correction
> making it look as if I were drunk. Although I admit
> to being in such a
> condition on the rare occasion this is not the case
> at the moment. I had
> the front suspension and brakes rebuilt prior to
> taking delivery and an
> alignment was done. It does look like the front
> wheels have no tow in and
> perhaps a little tow out. Where should I start
> looking. It is a early BN1,
> will a later steering box fit?
>
> Mark
> Nashville
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 03:38:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Dumb Question for BN1/BN2 Owners
Hi all
I got the BS standard wrench & socket sets from
Snap-On, which I find the sizes are marked differently
than the King Dick tools I have, which are Whitworth.
Am I correct to assume that the sizing nomenclature
for Whitorth and BS are different (I thought they were
the same)? This is what I found on the combination
wrenches:
King Dick 1/4" WW = to Snap-On 5/16" BS
Is this one of these totally screwed up British things
I should know about? No wonder the empire is in the
toilet... or, is either Snap-On or King Dick screwed
up?
Thanks in Advance for your clarification -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 21:35:05 -0400
Subject: Hardtop Restoration Question
For those of you who have restored a hardtop before:
I have just dismantled my hardtop for restoration. The first thing I
noticed was that it had been bent on the driver's side. The PO may
have tried to force it in somehow.The metal pins do not fit well in
the body. The rear window was changed and the mouldings took a
beating there as well. The windscreen left hand moulding has a kink
in it. The fiberglass shell itself being fairly flexible, when not
supported by the aluminium mouldings, has signs of cracking gel coat
above the left windsceen.
My question is : should I recoat the shell from the inside with
fiberglass cloth, reglaze the outside with gel coat or leave
everything alone, and concentrate on getting the mouldings straight.
I know if I reinforce the shell too much it might set crooked making
it fit wrong on the body, but it feels very weak as it is. anyone
offer some advice?
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alain =?iso-8859-1?Q?Gigu=E8re?= <agig at sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 06:44:53 -0400
Subject: Hardtop Restoration Question
For those of you who have restored a hardtop before:
I have just dismantled my hardtop for restoration. The first thing I
noticed was that it had been bent on the driver's side. The PO may
have tried to force it in somehow.The metal pins do not fit well in
the body. The rear window was changed and the mouldings took a
beating there as well. The windscreen left hand moulding has a kink
in it. The fiberglass shell itself being fairly flexible, when not
supported by the aluminium mouldings, has signs of cracking gel coat
above the left windsceen.
My question is : should I recoat the shell from the inside with
fiberglass cloth, reglaze the outside with gel coat or leave
everything alone, and concentrate on getting the mouldings straight.
I know if I reinforce the shell too much it might set crooked making
it fit wrong on the body, but it feels very weak as it is. anyone
offer some advice?
Alain Giguhre
BN7 bits
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 08:24:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Dumb Question for BN1/BN2 Owners
You have it right: BS sizes are 1/16" larger than Whitworth. Since
these measurements are for the shank of the bolt or screw rather than
the size of the head, they aren't "totally screwed up" but are very
British.
Ciao,
-Roland
On Wed, 8 Aug 2001 03:38:27 -0700 (PDT), "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers"
<international_investor@yahoo.com> wrote:
::
:: Hi all
::
:: I got the BS standard wrench & socket sets from
:: Snap-On, which I find the sizes are marked differently
:: than the King Dick tools I have, which are Whitworth.
:: Am I correct to assume that the sizing nomenclature
:: for Whitorth and BS are different (I thought they were
:: the same)? This is what I found on the combination
:: wrenches:
::
:: King Dick 1/4" WW = to Snap-On 5/16" BS
::
:: Is this one of these totally screwed up British things
:: I should know about?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Herman Farrer <herman at hfphoto.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 09:49:29 -0500
Subject: BMIHT Certificate price increase
For those of you who have delayed getting your BMIHT certificate, now
might be the time. After September 1, the price increases from
$40.00 to $50.00. For more info visit
http://www.heritage.org.uk/archive/archive.htm or e-mail Gillian
Bardsley at mailto:gbardsle@landrover.com.
Your best bet might be to fax the info to them. I tried using the
form on their Web page followed by a phone call with my credit card
number. Somehow they lost my request, so I faxed it. My certificate
arrived about four days later.
Herman
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 07:51:25 -0700
Subject: Re: The List
I also had one day over the weekend when the list backed up and then all the
messages came in a large group. It had nothing to do with being dropped
from the list.
Bob
----------
>From: "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>To: "Steve Byers"
<byers@cconnect.net>
>Cc: "Healeys Mailing List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Subject: The List
>Date: Tue, Aug 7, 2001, 9:56 PM
>
>
> Steve: I see trouble brewing :-). I thought that you were talking to me.
> You talking to me?? Then I scanned down and found that there is l-dkirby,
> another Len, on The List. I may need to change my signature.
>
> Even though it appears that your response was to another Len, re: The List, I
> will comment anyway.
>
> I do not understand what the problem with The List is because I have been
> checking my mail every day, even during my trip to Rendezvous 2001 in Grants
> Pass. I received mail every day I was there, Mon, Jul 30 thru Thur, Aug 2. I
> did not receive any mail on Friday but have received mail every day since.
> The comments on The
> List indicate a lack of mail for several days. That has not been the
> situation in my case. The fact that you were dropped from the list could
> account for your not receiving mail. Perhaps the others are/were in the same
> boat. ? ? ? ?
>
> The Other Len
> Vacaville, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 11:34:14 -0500
Subject: RE: BMIHT Certificate price increase
And to think, I got mine for $10.00 in 1989....
Steve
61BN7
>For those of you who have delayed getting your BMIHT certificate, now
>might be the time. After September 1, the price increases from
>$40.00 to $50.00.
>Herman
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 12:59:11 -0400
Subject: Fw: BN-1,2 Options
Hi All!
I understand (rightly or wrongly?) that chrome plated valve covers were an
available option on these cars.
Where were they installed - dealer or factory?
What was the finish on the filler cap?
What else is there to know about them?
I have a chrome cover that came on my car, when purchased in '87, sans
finish on cap. I'm considering sprucing it up and reinstalling on the car -
if it's concours correct as an option.
Thanks in advance for your comments/knowledge/help.
Ed Adams
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 09:56:33 -0700
Subject: fun healey computer wallpaper
While enjoying a nearly 40 year hobby, I stumbled across a fun BN1 computer
wallpaper at the HotWheels website:
http://www.hotwheelscollectors.com/fun_features/wallpaper/, then click on
the "concepts" link.
If you want a real healey picture for your desktop, try:
http://healey.org/wallpaper.shtml
Enjoy!
Brad [enjoying a virtual BN1, since mine is apart...] Weldon
Webmaster, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://healey.org/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 14:50:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Steering Box
In a message dated 8/8/01 3:35:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< By the way, a later steering box definitely WILL NOT
fit a BN1 - BN1s are a couple inches shorter than the
six cylinders, and the steering boxes are about an
inch shorter than the six cyl models. >>
Alan and Mark
Actually there were two different steering boxes used on the BN1/2. The
original steering box was made by Burman and supplied up to chassis no.
230660 (LHD) and 230684 (RHD) respectively in Feb. '56 when this steering box
was replaced by the Cam Gears unit, which is the same steering box used in
the very early 100-6s. There were even several modifications to the Burman
box during production and most importantly about adjusting the steering box
was the change in Sep. '54 at chassis no. 219137 (LHD) and 219258 (RHD) was
the addition of a screw-type rocker shaft adjustment instead of the selective
shim adjustment.
I believe that the later style Burman steering box to be much superior to the
Cam Gears unit in design and personally know of at least two people who has
switched from the Cam Gears to the later Burman box on their cars.
If this is confusing probably the best description readily available is to
look at the diagrams in the Moss Catalog.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Wood" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 11:05:10 -0400
Subject: Manuals For Sale
Hi Everyone,
All of the Manuals went within 30 Minutes of the time of listing...Amazing,
but maybe not
so.
All, except one Original Manual AKD1179 and the very interesting hard cover
Glenn
3rd edition Austin Austin-Healey Repair and Tune-Up Guide with "Selected
Road &
Track Road Tests. This book, for $10.00, seems also for you Sprite owners,
so
I'll list it again.
My thanks to all who contacted me...I am always sorry I don't have twenty of
each manual
so all could be happy.
Regards,
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 14:14:18 EDT
Subject: A Dumb Question for BN!/2 Owners
In a message dated 8/8/01 3:42:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< I got the BS standard wrench & socket sets from
Snap-On, which I find the sizes are marked differently
than the King Dick tools I have, which are Whitworth.
Am I correct to assume that the sizing nomenclature
for Whitworth and BS are different (I thought they were
the same)? This is what I found on the combination
wrenches:
King Dick 1/4" WW = to Snap-On 5/16" BS
Is this one of these totally screwed up British things
I should know about? No wonder the empire is in the
toilet... or, is either Snap-On or King Dick screwed
up? >>
Alan
As Roland W. has already stated BSF wrenches are marked 1/16" larger than the
Whitworth and if you had the original combination Superslim Wrenches that
came with the tool kit they are marked as such. Also I agree with Roland
about not being "totally screwed up", this is one of those typically British
things that I find endearing about the cars.
3/16 W = 1/4 BSF
1/4 W = 5/16 BSF
5/16 W = 3/8 BSF
3/8 W = 7/16 BSF
7/16 W = 1/2 BSF
1/2 W = 9/16 BSF
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5
Can anyone name the Whitworth Form (BSF, BSW and BA) fasteners on the Bugeye
engine?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 15:53:19 -0400
Subject: Re: A Dumb Question for BN!/2 Owners
> Can anyone name the Whitworth Form (BSF, BSW and BA) fasteners on the Bugeye
> engine?
"A" series engines are all UNF / UNC
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 16:35:00 -0400
Subject: Fw: BMIHT Certificate price increase
And I got mine in August, 1984 for $5. In those days, your money got you a
simple form letter from Anders Clausager with the manufacturing data on your
car,
not the blue and gold "suitable for framing" certificate available now.
This made me wonder how long the certificate service has been available.
Through the kindness of those BJ8 owners who believe in and support the BJ8
registry, I have been able to collect more than 300 copies of certs. The
oldest one I have is for HBJ8/43002G (13 August 1981, fee: 1 pound). The
next oldest belongs to one of our own, Len Hartnett (The Other Len), 23
August 82, fee: $5.
Does anyone have a certificate issued earlier? Warning: if it's a cert for
a BJ8
I'm going to ask for a copy!
Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
> To: "Herman Farrer" <herman@hfphoto.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 12:34 PM
> Subject: RE: BMIHT Certificate price increase
>
>
> >
> > And to think, I got mine for $10.00 in 1989....
> > Steve
> > 61BN7
> >
> >
> >
> > >For those of you who have delayed getting your BMIHT certificate, now
> > >might be the time. After September 1, the price increases from
> > >$40.00 to $50.00.
> >
> > >Herman
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 17:59:27 -0400
Subject: Throttle link bushing
Hello Listers,
Last evening I took the Healey out for a ride to the local park here in
sunny Boardman Ohio. As I turned left from a traffic light on to the main
road I had to make a defensive move to avoid an oncoming car.
I tromped down the gas pedal for a power move and did avoid a potential
incident. However, after a little distance I had no response in the gas
pedal.
Coasted off road,engine still running,but will not take the gas. Discoverd
a broken throttle link bushing. Just a plastic thing. No spares for this
part in my bag of generous parts on board. Used the twist tie that I use to
tie my bag of spare parts and secured the throttle shaft down enough to get
back home.
Moral; add twist ties to your little bag of parts. Question? Is there a
stronger(metal)bushing available? I have epoxied the plastic one for now.
Interestingly, I have replaced this part only once before since 1967!
TIA, Warren 67BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 07:56:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Hardtop Restoration Question
Alain: the fibreglas hardtop is quite flexible without the aluminum
moldings. I wouldn't re-fibreglas the inside unless it is damaged. If you
want to re-gel coat the outside, do it before you put the moldings back on.
If you plan to straighten the moldings, check them for fit on the fibreglas
(hold on with duct tape), then check the fit to the car. Do this all
before cementing the moldings back onto the fibreglass.
Here is what I did: 1. Removed all moldings and rear window, 2. Restored
the moldings by removing anodizing and scratches with progressively finer
wet-or-dry, 3. Trimmed the new window to match the old one, 4. Sanded the
old gelcoat, and primed with a couple of heavy coats of DP40, then finish
painted before installing the moldings and window. 5. Attached the
moldings (I don't remember what I used for adhesive), concurrently installed
the new window with new rubber seals, 6. Installed the headliner and
latches etc. That was six or seven years ago... still fits good and no
cracks so far. Got the window and seals etc from Norman Nock.
Good Luck,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alain Giguhre" <agig@sympatico.ca>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 6:44 AM
Subject: Hardtop Restoration Question
>
> For those of you who have restored a hardtop before:
>
> I have just dismantled my hardtop for restoration. The first thing I
> noticed was that it had been bent on the driver's side. The PO may
> have tried to force it in somehow.The metal pins do not fit well in
> the body. The rear window was changed and the mouldings took a
> beating there as well. The windscreen left hand moulding has a kink
> in it. The fiberglass shell itself being fairly flexible, when not
> supported by the aluminium mouldings, has signs of cracking gel coat
> above the left windsceen.
>
> My question is : should I recoat the shell from the inside with
> fiberglass cloth, reglaze the outside with gel coat or leave
> everything alone, and concentrate on getting the mouldings straight.
> I know if I reinforce the shell too much it might set crooked making
> it fit wrong on the body, but it feels very weak as it is. anyone
> offer some advice?
>
> Alain Giguhre
> BN7 bits
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:38:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Throttle link bushing
The bushings are not originaly plastic they were brass or steel depending on
the year of your car. We have both of these available new .
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tom Johnson <johnsont12 at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 16:41:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Tachometer Problem
Thanks to all those who responded to my tachometer problem.It's much
appreciated..........Tom
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Bob <jearich at mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 18:14:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Dumb Question for BN1/BN2 Owners
To whom it may concern.
BS in the UK stands for "British Standard", in the US it stands for
something quite different. The correct names for the two main British
threads are BSF = British Standard Fine and BSW = British Standard
Whitworth.
For those of us who were weaned on British threads we all understand that
the spanner size refers to the diameter of the bolt and that all BSF
spanners are one size smaller than their BSW cousins. It wasn't 'til I came
to the US some 40 years ago that I realized that you needed a 7/16" spanner
to tighten a 1/4" nut. At least over here both fine and coarse threads use
the same size spanner for a given bolt diameter.
Isn't it fun?
Cheers, "Bob".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 19:18:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Manuals For Sale
Oddly enuf' i bought that manual at a KMart on the discount book table about 15
years ago for $1.99......and it was in pristene condition.....i don't think it
was opened until i saw it!!! HoYo
PS wish i coulda got a deal like that on a 100S..................
PSS i entered a raffle for one once!............HooWee
"William H. Wood" wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> All of the Manuals went within 30 Minutes of the time of listing...Amazing,
> but maybe not
> so.
>
> All, except one Original Manual AKD1179 and the very interesting hard cover
> Glenn
> 3rd edition Austin Austin-Healey Repair and Tune-Up Guide with "Selected
> Road &
> Track Road Tests. This book, for $10.00, seems also for you Sprite owners,
> so
> I'll list it again.
>
> My thanks to all who contacted me...I am always sorry I don't have twenty of
> each manual
> so all could be happy.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bill Wood
>
> /
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Billy Carlisle <jcarlis at bellsouth.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 20:13:29 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: Fwd: Fw: (DO NOT DELETE)]
I'm always a little leary of these but, you never know. Kay
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Subject: Fwd: Fw: (DO NOT DELETE)
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<br><br><br>
>From: "mandi lowe" <born_a_rebel69@hotmail.com>
>To: lil_treasure_boy@hotmail.com, shagdog59@yahoo.com,
>special_ed626@hotmail.com, ashero0nie@hotmail.com, shopchic_05@hotmail.com,
>cutie_3682@hotmail.com, hotchick_014@hotmail.com, local_boy59@hotmail.com,
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>sunshine_chick_30286@yahoo.com, dannygal16@hotmail.com,
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>puppyluv48@hotmail.com, niki_star696@hotmail.com, tasha722@hotmail.com
>Subject: Fwd: Fw: (DO NOT DELETE)
>Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 17:18:28 -0400
>
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Wwycoffbn7 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 21:34:42 EDT
Subject: Triumphant return of BN7 -- Thanks to Fourintune
Listers:
It has been two weeks of catching up around the homestead, but the joy has
not dimmed. I retrieved the family BN7 at the vintage races at Road America,
WI (Elkhart Lake). We had it in storage for over 18 years after a relocation
and subsequent birth of our daughter.
Tom and Kaye Kovacs, together with the team at Fourintune, performed a
restoration that cannot be adequately described in this space because my
thesaurus lacks a sufficient number of bombastic adjectives.
Not only are we overwhelmed by the quality of the restoration, but the
authorities clearly agree. Next time you are in Colorado, please plan to
stop by and admire the trophy that our family BN7 recently won at the Brian
Redman International Challenge 2001 Concours. The BN7 came in second in
class to a beautiful Aston Martin DB2 dhc that went on to take the Best in
Show.
Not to belabor a point, but if it weren't for Fourintune, the family BN7
would still be in storage next to a box of 16-year old baby pictures that we
plan to put in an album soon . . .
Best Regards,
Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CNAArndt at aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 21:43:31 EDT
Subject: A Dumb Question for BN1/2 Owners
n a message dated 8/8/01 12:46:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time, magicare@home.com
writes:
<< "A" series engines are all UNF / UNC >>
Hi All
I guess that my attempt to challenge the collective knowledge of the list
failed miserably so let me try again by restating and expanding the original
question.
"Can anyone name the Whitworth Form (BSF, BSW and BA) fasteners on the Bugeye
engine."
No where did I imply that the entire engine was put together with Whitworth
fasteners, only that there were a few. Mike Salter is correct, the A series
engines are mostly UNF/UNC. Secondly, and this is my fault for not making
myself clear in including the Lucas electricals as part of the engine e.g.,
the distributor, generator, etc. Plus I also consider the original H-1
carburetors as part of the engine. So the bottom line is that I give up, so
here are a few of the examples I was talking about.
1. There is one BSW bolt on the engine (generator). A 5/16" (shank diameter)
BSW bolt that attaches the top of the generator link to the front case of the
generator (the generator case is tapped for this purpose). The head of the
bolt will take a 1/4W or 5/16BSF wrench as you prefer. I know that I will
hear from some of you saying that no, it's a ANC or UNC (there is a slight
but insignificant difference in these two) bolt and you are right that it
will fit since both the Whitworth bolt and the ANC/UNC bolts will have 18
TPI, but it is not correct. They came from the factory with the Whitworth
bolt.
2. The carburetors will use all Whitworth wrenches/spanners and are a
combination of BSF, BA and possibly BSP threads, so here are a couple of
examples. The screws that hold the dashpots on are No. 2 BA, the float bowl
cover bolts take a 1/4W or 5/16 BSF wrench and the internal threads are 1/4
BSF. Also the original brass damper caps will use a 7/16W or 1/2BSF wrench
and the threads I am not certain of.
3. I think that you will find that most if not all of the internal threads
on the distributor and the Smith's guages are BA (British Association) which
is the one mistake that I made since BA threads are not a Whitworth Form but
rather a strange metric thread originally developed by the Swiss, but that is
another story. The other Whitworth Form Threads are BSP/BSPT (British
Standard Pipe/Tapered).
Sorry for the confusion it was just a trivia quiz, so I guess that I'll take
my Whitworth wrenches and go home. Plus this was better a question for the
Sprite/Midget List.
Cheers
Curt Arndt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:01:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Tachometer Problem
A while back I also had an incorrectly reading tach on the BJ8. With
instruction from the list I adjusted the tach in a manner similar to what
Frank describes. The difference being I did not drill the hole. If you
will remove the light bulb socket from the back you can insert a small
bladed screwdriver at an angle and reach the adjusting screw.
Keith Pennell
> If this turns out to be the problem and the tach then appears to work it
> must then be calibrated. There is an adjustable pot on the back of the
> circuit board with a small scewdriver slot facing the inside of the back
> of the tach case. I drill a 1/2" hole in the tach case at that location
> so I can access the adjustment with the unit fully assembled. Reconnect
> in the car then just compare it to a know good tach/dwell meter and
> slowly adjust the pot to read the same at 1000, 2000 and 3000rpm. Should
> be good everywhere after that. Tape over the hole when done to keep out
> dust and moisture."
>
> Good luck and let me know how you make out.
>
> Frank
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 21:09:04 -0500
Subject: Re: A Dumb Question for BN1/2 Owners
er, Curt?
For the unenlightened, may I??
<MAJOR snip>
<<both the Whitworth bolt and the ANC/UNC bolts will have 18
TPI, but it is not correct. They came from the factory with the Whitworth
bolt.>>
AND WAY different thread pitches. Put the NON-Whitworth on in and threads
are DONE for!!
<<..mistake that I made since BA threads are not a Whitworth Form but
rather a strange metric thread originally developed by the Swiss, but that
is
another story. >>
<<"French" metric, maybe?? On MGTs, dats it<F>. Plus this was better a
question for the
Sprite/Midget List.>>
Yep, 'cause there would have only been two, MAYBE three replies by
now<VBG>!!!!
Best............
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 19:19:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BRITISH WINGS & WHEELS 2001 - Santa Monica, CA
BRITISH WINGS & WHEELS 2001
Sunday, September 30th
At The Museum of Flying
Santa Monica, California
Sponsored by:
Moss Motors, The Museum of Flying
and The Southern California MG Club
$25.00 Registration fee includes admission to the Museum.
The British Car exhibition will be on the museum front
parking lot, in the building and on the airport apron.
Due to time and space constraints, cars will not be
grouped by marque but instead displayed in the order
that they arrive. There are plans to offer photographs
of you and your car next to a Spitfire Aircraft. Please
be on site between 8:00AM and 9:30AM for photos and
field placement. We ask that all vehicles please remain
on site until after 4:00PM for spectator safety.
Awards will be given at 3:30PM for unique examples of
the various marques. There will be no concours judging
so daily drivers and works-in-progress are appreciated.
The idea is to have fun and meet other owners.
For further information please call:
Kelvin Dodd
(800)-235-6954 X 3023 or
e-mail: doddk@mossmotors.com
PRE-REGISTRATION is recommended
Name _______________________________
Address _______________________________________
City, State, Zip _______________________________
Telephone _______________________________
e-mail (if avail.) _______________________________
Car Make, Model, Yr _______________________________
Interesting Points _______________________________
_______________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________
Club Affiliations _____________________________________
Make check payable to: The Museum of Flying
Or (circle one) MC VISA DISC AMEX __________________
Exp. _____________
Proceeds to benefit The Museum of Flying
Mail to:
Kelvin Dodd
Moss Motors Ltd.
P.O. Box 847
Goleta, CA 93117
Or Fax to: (805) 692-2520
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo at homeacres.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 20:24:33 -0700
Subject: Healthy Healey Heartbeat? Ticker trouble...
Can anyone describe to me what a "healthy" Healey heartbeat (aka fuel pump
"tick") should sound like?
The thing I've been most aware of about driving our BJ8 is the tick-tick-tick
from the back seat. When we first picked it up in November it was pretty well
behaved - it didn't tick at all with the key on and the engine off, and it
would tick a handful of times while running, rest a while, then tick some
more. On the first drive home I thought after a 2 hour drive it was ticking
more than at the start, but oh well - ran fine.
Recently it started ticking REALLY loudly, louder than the engine, and
stalling like it was running out of has. It turns out was due to both fuel
filters being plugged by rust. Flushed out the tank, replaced both filters,
etc, etc... And now, an entirely different heartbeat!
Now it is almost a constant tick...tick...tick... Even with the key off it
keeps ticking. Going up steep hills it gets ticking quickly, and sometimes
under acceleration. I don't think it should be going constantly, especially
with the engine off. I've checked, no external gas leaks.
What should a healthy ticker sound like?
I'm thinking it sounds like the fuel pump diaphragm has a hole in it, causing
fuel to leak out backwards. Even more suspicious was the lack of gas in the
line to the carb after sitting overnight. It could also still be really
obstructed with rust, and I just need to get in there and sort it out.
Prognosis? Healthy ticker or time for a bypass? Repair or replace? Thanks!
-Boyo (aka Dennis)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 21:32:34 -0700
Subject: Re: BMIHT Certificate price increase
August of '82 for $5.00.
The Other Len. '67 BJ8
Drove too long
Driver snoozing
What happened next
Is not amusing
Burma-Shave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com>
To: "Herman Farrer" <herman@hfphoto.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 9:34 AM
Subject: RE: BMIHT Certificate price increase
>
> And to think, I got mine for $10.00 in 1989....
> Steve
> 61BN7
>
>
>
> >For those of you who have delayed getting your BMIHT certificate, now
> >might be the time. After September 1, the price increases from
> >$40.00 to $50.00.
>
> >Herman
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Marge and/or Len Hartnett" <thehartnetts at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:23:48 -0700
Subject: Re: BMIHT Certificate price increase
Steve: I did it again. I sent an e-mail without reading all the new
messages in my Inbox. Didn't see your message with my name included until
later. One of these days I'll get some discipline. I just hope that I can
enjoy the Internet and The List for as long as I have enjoyed driving my
Healey. Let's see - that would take me to 103 years old. As someone else
said, "I plan to live forever. So far, so good".
The Other Len.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 1:35 PM
Subject: Fw: BMIHT Certificate price increase
"...The next oldest belongs to one of our own, Len Hartnett (The Other Len),
23 August 82, fee: $5..."
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:54:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Throttle link bushing
Warren -
As a matter of course, I always keep a spare of this
in the car, just in case it breaks (they're pretty
cheap). I used to have a metal one, but I didn't like
the fact that it wore out my throttle shaft at one end
- keep a spare plastic one around.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Warren Dietz <flyhihealey@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Listers,
> Last evening I took the Healey out for a ride to
> the local park here in
> sunny Boardman Ohio. As I turned left from a traffic
> light on to the main
> road I had to make a defensive move to avoid an
> oncoming car.
> I tromped down the gas pedal for a power move and
> did avoid a potential
> incident. However, after a little distance I had no
> response in the gas
> pedal.
> Coasted off road,engine still running,but will not
> take the gas. Discoverd
> a broken throttle link bushing. Just a plastic
> thing. No spares for this
> part in my bag of generous parts on board. Used the
> twist tie that I use to
> tie my bag of spare parts and secured the throttle
> shaft down enough to get
> back home.
> Moral; add twist ties to your little bag of parts.
> Question? Is there a
> stronger(metal)bushing available? I have epoxied the
> plastic one for now.
> Interestingly, I have replaced this part only once
> before since 1967!
> TIA, Warren 67BJ8
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TBanks at LEVI.com
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:26:27 -0700
Subject: FW: Dumb Question for BN1/BN2 Owners
I remember reading somewhere that this discrepancy is, of course, partly due
to the need to conserve valuable resources during times of conflict...
During WW2, the British decided that the head size on British Standard
Whitworth (and for that matter British Standard Fine) bolts was too big.
Making bolts from the stock hex bars was consuming too much steel. So for
most uses, each size of bolt took the head size of the next bolt down. So,
although a Whitworth spanner is marked 7/16"WW, it actually fits bolts with
3/8" diameter. Spanners marked with BS size are the same as Whitworth but
the size nomenclature matches the bolt diameter (i.e. 3/8"BS=7/16"WW and
both fit bolts with diameter 3/8").
Hmmmm, this would mean your King Dick 1/4"WW should match a Snap-On 3/16"BS
and not 5/16"BS you mention?
Tom Banks
Belgium
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:39:56 +0100
Subject: Re: Dumb Question for BN1/BN2 Owners
>I got the BS standard wrench & socket sets from
>Snap-On, which I find the sizes are marked differently
>than the King Dick tools I have, which are Whitworth.
>Am I correct to assume that the sizing nomenclature
>for Whitorth and BS are different (I thought they were
>the same)? This is what I found on the combination
>wrenches:
>
>King Dick 1/4" WW = to Snap-On 5/16" BS
>
This is correct and applies to virtually all Whitworth sizes. More often
the definitions on the spanners and sockets will be "Whit." or just "W"
and "BSW" or "BSF"
>Is this one of these totally screwed up British things
>I should know about?
Yes you might find it useful when working on older cars. The British
were the first in the world to produce a standard for screwed fittings.
I do not know without looking it up, but a very long while ago, all
Whitworth nut sizes were considered unnecessarily large so in almost all
cases the nut, smaller size across the flats, down was applied to a
given thread size. This was just evolution based on experience.
Spanners were then marked with both sizes but these days you are only
likely to need to recognise the larger size as this relates on our cars
to the diameter of the bolt or stud.
It is a fact of life that if you are following somebodies previous work
you have a better chance of getting things correct first time. The
American A/F sizes are a very good example of this but having said this
one then does not know what spanner one needs from the bolt size!
All the best
>No wonder the empire is in the
>toilet... or, is either Snap-On or King Dick screwed
>up?
>
>Thanks in Advance for your clarification -
>
>Alan
>
>'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 22:38:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Steering Box
>Alan and Mark
>
May I just add that if one changes the make of steering box, one should
also be sure to change the steering idler and arm to the appropriate
matching part.
If one mixes these units the steering geometry will not be correct and
handling problems could occur when cornering. The arms in particualar
have slightly different spacings.
All the best
>Actually there were two different steering boxes used on the BN1/2. The
>original steering box was made by Burman and supplied up to chassis no.
>230660 (LHD) and 230684 (RHD) respectively in Feb. '56 when this steering box
>was replaced by the Cam Gears unit, which is the same steering box used in
>the very early 100-6s. There were even several modifications to the Burman
>box during production and most importantly about adjusting the steering box
>was the change in Sep. '54 at chassis no. 219137 (LHD) and 219258 (RHD) was
>the addition of a screw-type rocker shaft adjustment instead of the selective
>shim adjustment.
>
>I believe that the later style Burman steering box to be much superior to the
>Cam Gears unit in design and personally know of at least two people who has
>switched from the Cam Gears to the later Burman box on their cars.
>
>If this is confusing probably the best description readily available is to
>look at the diagrams in the Moss Catalog.
>
>Cheers
>
>Curt Arndt
>Carlsbad, CA
>'55 BN1, '60 AN5
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 07:11:51 -0500
Subject: Australia business HELP needed
Listers,
I want to do some business with an Australian Co. What is a good medium
of exchange
that won't cost there company a lot of money converting US dollars over to
Ausie money.
I prefer not to use my Visa card at this time. Has anyone used a Chase
Manhattan Bank draft and is there a charge to convert this over.
Thanks in advance, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars at galaxyinternet.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 07:30:57 -0500
Subject: No attachments Please
Ed,
Please don't send me anymore attachments. It took me 5 min. to down load
and I'm not even going to open it up.
Thanks, Mark
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 08:53:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Dumb Question for BN1/BN2 Owners
<<BS in the UK stands for "British Standard", in the US it stands for
something quite different. >>
Huh, "Bob"??? You telling me that all the NEW BSF nuts and bolts I have
been putting in the '53 MGTD I am repairing are NOT BSF fasteners??? And I
have been using the wrong spanners??
Ed
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL USA
www.justbrits.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 11:02:46 -0400
Subject: Fuel guage readings
Just had my BJ7 out for a spin and I noticed that the fuel guage
seems to be sensitive to whether I am going up or down a hill.
That doesn't seem to be right. going up hill it read empty (incorrect)
going down hill it read almost full (correct)
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 09:16:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Healthy Healey Heartbeat? Ticker trouble...
>Can anyone describe to me what a "healthy" Healey heartbeat (aka fuel pump
>"tick") should sound like?... What should a healthy ticker sound like?
Dennis,
It sounds like a quick "tick, tick, tick, tick, tick..." Sorry - couldn't
resist.
I had a similar condition earlier this summer. My pump was producing a
constant tick for a couple of days. Then on Father's Day it finally gave
out in a small town in west-central Indiana. As my luck goes, the two auto
part stores were both closed. A fellow Club member and I removed the pump
and disassembled it on the side of the road. It was a 20 year-old pump with
points. We found the contacts to be nearly gone. We cleaned (filed) what
remained of the contacts and cleaned the points and condensor the best we
could. Re-assembled and re-installed. The car started right up and ran
well for the next 100 miles or so. Enough to get the car back to my Dad's
place.
The next weekend I replaced the pump with a generic pump (shhh - please
don't tell the concours judges). The new pump works great. The pump can be
found at Auto Zone (part # 8016S) or at Car Quest (part # E8016S) and sells
for about $30.00. It works for both positive an negative ground cars and
has a 2-4 psi presurre rating. The pump has a similar ticking characterist
at start-up and when your about to run out of gas - that's another story.
Bottomline, you can swap out your pump with this generic pump allowing you
to continue to drive the car while you determine the problem with yours.
Or, throw the generic one in the boot in the event your's craps out in the
middle of Nowhere, Indiana on a hot Sunday morning only to find both auto
parts stores closed. $30 is cheap insurance.
Good luck,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 21:13:55 +1000
Subject: Humour - No Healey content
> The Truth About Tools
>
>
> HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer
> nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate expen-
> sive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.
>
> MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the con-
> tents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door;
> works particularly well on boxes containing seats and
> motorcycle jackets.
>
> ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop
> rivets in their holes until you die of old age, but it also
> works great for drilling mounting holes in fenders just
> above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.
>
> PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
>
> HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the orig-
> inal sin principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked,
> unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence
> its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
>
> VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is
> available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding
> heat to the palm of your hand.
>
> OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting vari-
> ous flammable objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for
> igniting the grease inside a brake drum you're trying to get
> the bearing race out of.
>
> WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British
> cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for imperson-
> ating that 9/16" or 1/2" socket you've been searching for the
> last 15 minutes.
>
> DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly
> snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it
> smacks you in the chest and flings your coffee across the
> room, splattering it against that freshly painted part you
> were drying.
>
> WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them
> somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also
> removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in
> about the time it takes you to say, "Ouc...."
>
> HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a LBC to the
> ground after you have installed your new front disk brake
> setup, trapping the jack handle firmly under the front fender.
>
> EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a LBC
> upward off a hydraulic jack.
>
> TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 09:53:43 -0600
Subject: RE: Oil Pump and Clutch Slave
Yes! Check the NTAHC web site where an article I wrote on that subject is
posted.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: carterh [mailto:carterh@exis.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 5:50 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Oil Pump and Clutch Slave
>>Is there anyway to prime my oil pump without the glob of grease or
Vaseline solution? Especially after its been installed, oil pan closed and
engine back in the car?
Hal Carter<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 08:16:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Throttle link bushing
Warren,
You do not need a stronger bushing if you adjust your throttle linkage so
that the gas pedal itself acts as a positive stop for all the linkage
movement, rather than the movement being stopped by the tabs on the throttle
shafts hitting the carb bodies. The procedure is outlined in the factory
manual at the end of Section A, and I have a supplement available if anyone
is interested.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
> Question? Is there a
> stronger(metal)bushing available? I have epoxied the plastic one for now.
> Interestingly, I have replaced this part only once before since 1967!
> TIA, Warren 67BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 06:51:03 -0600
Subject: Exhaust hangers
On my BN6 I can find the two rear mounting locations for the exhaust. These
hang the rear twin pipes from the cross member behind the axle and from the
outrigger just in front of the axle. From the parts source catalogues it
looks like there should be another that attaches from the front of the
muffler to the front outrigger.
On my car there are no captured nuts in the front outrigger (as in the rear)
to mount the hangers to and the outrigger was not replaced during the
rebuild.
Since my memory and my photos are insufficient can someone tell me if the
earlier BN6's had an exhaust hanger up front.
Thanks
Ross Maylor
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 09:13:12 -0700
Subject: Throttle Shaft Clearance Question
Hello Listers,
I replaced the throttle shafts and cork seals on my HD6 carbs. There seems
to be quite a bit of wobble between the shafts and the carb casting and this
turns to basically none with the cork seals installed.
My question: is this play going to cause the seals to wear out quickly, or
do the seals actually support the shaft.
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From thomton at attglobal.net
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 07:11:30 -0600
Subject: FS; triple Webers
Selling Denis Welch triple Weber kit.....3 Webers, manifolds,
linkage.....all new in package.
I've changed directions on engine mods.
Contact off line at 303-271-9232 MST
Steve
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 12:18:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Humour - No Healey content
In a message dated 8/9/01 9:01:25 AM, gregbankin@primus.com.au writes:
<< > The Truth About Tools
>
>
> HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer
> nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod... >>
For those of you who are tempted to copy this wonderful old chestnut into
your newsletters, it was originally written by Peter Egan for Road and Track
Magazine. I'm sure he's long since given up on protecting its copyright, but
proper attribution is always appreciated by people who make their living
assembling words into pieces that entertain and edify the rest of us.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
Editor, British Car Magazine
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 08:46:48 -0500
Subject: Need Steering Measurement BN1
I am homing in on the problem that I am having following a disc brake
conversion on a BN1. It appears that the side rods are too long causing
EXCESSIVE tow out on the front wheels. I believe that the side rods were
replaced during the rebuild with later Healey parts. I think the solution
would be to make the side rods adjustable, since new are not available. All
other BN1 steering parts were reused. It would be real nice to have the
proper bolt center to center measurement of the side rods. My originals
are no where to be found (I didn't do it), anybody Help?
Mark
Nashville
BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 11:29:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Exhaust hangers
On my BN6 I can find the two rear mounting locations for the exhaust.
>Since my memory and my photos are insufficient can someone tell me if the
>earlier BN6's had an exhaust hanger up front.
Ross:
I am finishing up a new frame for a BJ8 and can tell you that there are no
captive nuts on the left rear outrigger. There are four captive nuts (5/16
x 24 tpi) welded into the gusset that reinforces the rear cross member at
the left main rail. Interesting note is that there are four vacant holes
on the right rear gusset - same part, flipped over but without the nuts
welded in place.
If there is a hanger on the outrigger, it must be welded in place.
I believe that the BN6 and BJ8 frames are the same in this respect
eventhough the rear axle section is different.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 10:10:28 -0400
Subject: Re: A Dumb Question for BN1/2 Owners
JustBrits wrote:
> <<both the Whitworth bolt and the ANC/UNC bolts will have 18
> TPI, but it is not correct. They came from the factory with the Whitworth
> bolt.>>
>
> AND WAY different thread pitches. Put the NON-Whitworth on in and threads
> are DONE for!!
>
Just to set the record straight...
The pitch of a 5/16 UNF and 5/16 BSW are the same 18 t.p.i. however the
difference is in the thread form.
BSF and BSW threads have a 60 degree angle of thread whereas BS threads have a
55 degree angle of thread.
Another major difference is that the crests and roots of BS threads are rounded
whereas UNF and UNC have square crests and rounded roots on internal threads and
rounded roots and square or rounded crests on external threads.
If you are gonna be right you may as well be RIGHT. ;-)
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 13:41:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Healthy Healey Heartbeat? Ticker trouble...
In a message dated 8/9/01 11:59:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ahrdstr@hotmail.com writes:
<< ottomline, you can swap out your pump with this generic pump allowing you
to continue to drive the car while you determine the problem with yours.
Or, throw the generic one in the boot in the event your's craps out in the
middle of Nowhere, Indiana on a hot Sunday morning only to find both auto
parts stores closed. $30 is cheap insurance.
>>
Or you can do what I did: Fix the SU and then install the generic pump
between the tank and the SU using flexible hose, buy an "On-off-on" toggle
switch and install it in a hidden spot for a bit of security if needed.
Since both pumps are diaphragm type the SU will pull thru the generic and the
generic will push thru the SU. In case of breakdown simply flip a switch...
BTW, since I did this my SU has performed perfectly!
Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 13:44:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust hangers
In a message dated 8/9/01 9:14:51, obiedog@telusplanet.net writes:
<< Since my memory and my photos are insufficient can someone tell me if the
earlier BN6's had an exhaust hanger up front.
Thanks
Ross Maylor >>
Ross,
On my early BN6 (645) there are three hangers. The front hanger is attached
by two bolts to the floor behind the front outrigger with the mounting flange
pointing down and back. The middle hanger attaches to the front of the rear
outrigger angled brace and has the mounting flange parallel to the ground
facing forward.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 11:18:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Healthy Healey Heartbeat? Ticker trouble...
I beg your pardon! I was just in Nowhere, Indiana . . . .my birthplace. I
recognized it because it was 90 degrees, and 1000% humidity!
Terry Blubaugh
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/9/01 11:59:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> ahrdstr@hotmail.com writes:
>
> << ottomline, you can swap out your pump with this generic pump allowing you
> to continue to drive the car while you determine the problem with yours.
> Or, throw the generic one in the boot in the event your's craps out in the
> middle of Nowhere, Indiana on a hot Sunday morning only to find both auto
> parts stores closed. $30 is cheap insurance.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 10:57:02 -0700
Subject: RE: Need Steering Measurement BN1
Mark,
I have made an adjustable track rod on one side of the car. You can measure
an existing fixed track rod and use that measurement as a starting point. To
achieve perfect steering adjustment (tight spot in the steering worm in the
straight ahead position), some repeat adjustments of both the side rod and
the center rod (to maintain toe in) will be required. Anyway, lots of
fiddling and road testing. I used a very cooperative alignment shop. If you
don't think you have any steering box problems, I suggest just buying the
appropriate fixed side rods. If you use the list archives, there should be a
discussion about 5 years ago on this.
Frequently too much toe out is due to the idler and the steering arms
reversed.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 14:32:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust hangers
Ross,
Every six cylinder Healey I have seen has had two 5/16" studs hanging down
from the floor, just behind the front outrigger, for the front exhaust
mounting bracket. If your floor has been replaced these might be missing.
The studs take a standard exhaust mount whose hole mates with a welded tab
sticking up from the front of the muffler.
If you need to establish a location for these studs you can fit the mounts
to the captive nuts in the front of the rear outrigger and the rear cross
member gusset,
then hang the exhaust with a mount bolted to the muffler tab. This will
tell you where to bore the holes in the floor for the front studs.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Maylor" <obiedog@telusplanet.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 8:51 AM
Subject: Exhaust hangers
. From the parts source catalogues it
> looks like there should be another that attaches from the front of the
> muffler to the front outrigger.
> On my car there are no captured nuts in the front outrigger (as in the
rear)
> to mount the hangers to and the outrigger was not replaced during the
> rebuild.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 15:01:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Healthy Healey Heartbeat? Ticker trouble...
Dennis O'Connor wrote:
> Now it is almost a constant tick...tick...tick... Even with the key off it
> keeps ticking.
Hi Dennis,
There is no way that your fuel pump should "tick" with the ignition turned off.
Once the voltage is turned off the pump cannot "tick"
I think you need to check a little more for the source of the noise.
If it only "ticks" while you are moving along the road it is more likely to be a
loose rear wheel spline which is very dangerous.
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:03:47 -0400
Subject: Re: A Dumb Question for BN!/2 Owners
Correction: The first abbreviation of my earlier epistle was incorrect.
Corrected version.
Just to set the record straight...
The pitch of a 5/16 UNC and 5/16 BSW are the same 18 t.p.i. however the
difference is in the thread form.
BSF and BSW threads have a 60 degree angle of thread whereas BS threads
have a
55 degree angle of thread.
Another major difference is that the crests and roots of BS threads are
rounded
whereas UNF and UNC have square crests and rounded roots on internal
threads and
rounded roots and square or rounded crests on external threads.
If you are gonna be right you may as well be RIGHT. ;-)
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 17:32:42 EDT
Subject: Mallory distributor
I have a dual-point distributor for which Mallory offers two conversions:
First a "Unilite" (model 37) infra-red kit (I think it is like a Pertronics
ignition), and Second a Magnetic-pickup kit. The Tech I spoke with said that
either would be good, though he was more familiar with the unilite. Does
anyone have any experience with either or both, pro or con?
Thanks--Michael Oritt, BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 17:47:51 EDT
Subject: Brake Light Switch
My friend just bought a nicely restored BN4 last week. The only item not
working well is the brake light switch. The brake lights do not come on when
braking normally or even for fairly hard stops. They only come on when you
apply about 50% more peddle pressure than normal braking pressure, or that
required by my car.
I think I recall reading that this switch is not adjustable, and that the
Lucus brake switch for the Healey does require fairly heavy brake peddle
pressure to activate.
Moss sells both a Lucus switch and a non-Lucus switch (a few bucks cheaper).
Is the brake switch adjustable? If not, any thoughts on the Lucus vs. Moss
non-Lucus switch for replacement?
Thanks for your help.
John
100-Six Erick the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 17:14:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch
hi john-
not adjustable. iv'e never used anything but lucas, however, this is an item i
always carry a spare as it has been been my most replaced item except for oil
filters. for me, the norm has been 2-3 years. hope cully is enjoying his new
healey -- it's a beauty !!
happy healeying,
jerry
JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> My friend just bought a nicely restored BN4 last week. The only item not
> working well is the brake light switch. The brake lights do not come on when
> braking normally or even for fairly hard stops. They only come on when you
> apply about 50% more peddle pressure than normal braking pressure, or that
> required by my car.
> I think I recall reading that this switch is not adjustable, and that the
> Lucus brake switch for the Healey does require fairly heavy brake peddle
> pressure to activate.
> Moss sells both a Lucus switch and a non-Lucus switch (a few bucks cheaper).
> Is the brake switch adjustable? If not, any thoughts on the Lucus vs. Moss
> non-Lucus switch for replacement?
> Thanks for your help.
> John
> 100-Six Erick the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <dyarber at dynasty.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 17:22:03 -0500
Subject: Test
This is to test the list. I have sent three or four messages to the list
recently and have seen none appear. Note to all who know me: my e-mail
address has changed to donyarber@earthlink.net
Will somebody please let me know if the list server is accepting messages
from my new e-mail address?
I don't think it makes a difference from where you e-mail the list, does
it??
Don
BN7
"If you give a man a fish you feed him for a day, if you teach him to fish
you make a liar out of him."
"If you give a man a fish you feed him for a day, if you teach him to fish
you make a liar out of him."
Don Yarber
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 19:37:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch
In a message dated 8/9/01 2:53:09 PM, JSoderling@aol.com writes:
<< that the
Lucus brake switch for the Healey does require fairly heavy brake peddle
pressure to activate.
Moss sells both a Lucus switch and a non-Lucus switch (a few bucks cheaper).
Is the brake switch adjustable? If not, any thoughts on the Lucus vs. Moss
non-Lucus switch for replacement?
Thanks for your help.
John >>
One person's experience: I had my switch fail when I changed from Dot4 to
Silicone Brake fluid -- it was the only component that failed on the car when
I made the change, so I don't want to get into an "I told you so" about use
of silicone -- apparently the innards got gummed up. When I bought the
generic replacement, I discovered it took a different wrench to install it
(this switch has a hex-shaped body that screws into the brake line manifold)
than the one to remove the old switch, so I wound up buying an original one
from a friend who happened to have one in his garage.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 16:00:35 -0700
Subject: My new Healey interior
I posted this a few days ago, it never showed up on the list. My apologies
if you have already read it.........
I just unpacked my much-anticipated BJ8 custom leather seat kit and matching
tonneau from Heritage Trim (dk blue leather/powder blue piping). If these
hides look half as good on the car as they do spread out on my office floor
I'm gonna be one happy camper. God, they smell good! Besides new front and
rear seats I'm recovering the arm rest, rear seat back/parcel shelf and
console. The package came with extra matching vinyl material, first class
hardware, beautiful carpet for the rear shelf, all neccessary foams and a
well marked list of contents. The tonneau is of matching dk blue "Sunfast"
cloth with a heavy duty brass zipper. The seams are perfectly sewn and
trimmed and, from all appearances, the leather seat covers are flawless.
Very impressive.
I know there are numerous suppliers that contribute and monitor this list.
Unlike some folks who post here, I can't think of a negative thing to say
about any of them. I hope my comments are not taken to dismiss any other
suppliers here. As my restoration has progressed I have spread the project
around several well known vendors and I've been plenty happy with each one
of them. However, I do want to say that working with Heritage has been a
particular pleasure. I must have had 20 telephone exchanges (with Duncan)
with them over the last couple months. Due to my admittedly anal nature
about color there were more than a couple change orders. They were always
gracious, professional and responsive. Besides outstanding quality, what
else can you ask for in a supplier?
My thanks to all here who recommended Heritage Trim. To those of you who are
planning a new Healey interior, they should definitely be on your short
list. For sure not the cheapest - but definitely first class.
Randy Harris aka "Coop" ('66 BJ8)
Disclaimer: Other than as a totally satisfied customer, I have no
relationship with Heritage Trim, financial or otherwise.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:27:39 -0700
Subject: fitting the rocker panels correctly
It is about time for me to fit my replacement rocker panels on my BN1.
I have patched all four fenders , replaced the front cross member ,
replaced the rear trunk bottom, ditto for the spring boxes, Patches to
the bottoms of the hinge and shut pillars, a patch on the left front
outrigger, and some minor repairs to the outer sills complete.
I have put the fenders and doors on several times, tweaking the hinge
placement, and trying the rocker panels on for fit and alignment. The
engine and transmission/OD are out of the car, but I noticed no change
in door alignment before vs after pulling the heavy stuff out. The
car is on stands. In front the stands are under the front spring pans,
and at rear they are under the rear springs between the U bolts --
the object being to support the car as much as possible the way that
it will sit on the ground.
The rocker panels are from Kilmartin and they appear to fit pretty
well inside the lower fenders and below the doors. My questions are
about getting the best fit, which appears to be a compromise between
fitting to the fenders optimally and getting the gap under the door to
be the same size as the other door gaps.
The projection on the rocker does not exactly match the length of my
doors. I can match front or rear edge but not both, unless I build up
the rocker with weld, or lead, or metal filled polyester. Should I
build up the rocker to match the door or leave well enough alone. I
am not very enthusiastic about reshaping the bottom edges of the
fenders to raise the rocker 1/8 to 3/16", but if I don't the gap at
the door bottom will be about 1/4 to 3/8".
What about the seal between fender and rocker? Should I shim any gaps
between them with non corroding materials, or leave them open?
The fronts of the rocker panels are open with no tabs or flanges to
facilitate attachment to the hinge pillar. Should I make some tabs up
and do my best to seal the front face of the rocker panels?
Is it important that I dump the transmission and O/D back into the
cockpit to add weight to the chassis? The front engine mounts are
just about over the front suspension and I don't suspect that much
engine weight is exerted amidships by them
Any other advice or suggestions? I don't mind a lot of fiddling now,
but I surely don't want to have to do it over later..
Thanks for any help.
-Roland
San Diego
BN1, BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 20:32:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Healthy Healey Heartbeat? Ticker trouble...
In a message dated 8/9/01 11:58:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ahrdstr@hotmail.com writes:
> I replaced the pump with a generic pump (shhh - please
> don't tell the concours judges).
You don't have to tell us because we have a little bug planted on each
potential Austin-Healey Concours entrant. But don't look for it cause you'll
never find it.
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 19:42:02 -0500
Subject: Re: My new Healey interior
>>Disclaimer: Other than as a totally satisfied customer,>>
WAY "cool", Randy!!!!
That said, at least we can tell you are NOT a "lawyer"!!!
<< I have no
relationship with Heritage Trim, financial >><snip>
They "GAVE" all that stuff away?!?!?!?
Yikes, you gots to be the "Salesman of the Century"!!!!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 18:46:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch
The switch is old. Just replace it - the switches are
usually pretty good and will last you a long time (10
years+). It should definitely come on with very
little pressure. There's no way to adjust it unless
you rig up a non-standard US style switch on the brake
pedal as a replacement.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- JSoderling@aol.com wrote:
>
> My friend just bought a nicely restored BN4 last
> week. The only item not
> working well is the brake light switch. The brake
> lights do not come on when
> braking normally or even for fairly hard stops.
> They only come on when you
> apply about 50% more peddle pressure than normal
> braking pressure, or that
> required by my car.
> I think I recall reading that this switch is not
> adjustable, and that the
> Lucus brake switch for the Healey does require
> fairly heavy brake peddle
> pressure to activate.
> Moss sells both a Lucus switch and a non-Lucus
> switch (a few bucks cheaper).
> Is the brake switch adjustable? If not, any
> thoughts on the Lucus vs. Moss
> non-Lucus switch for replacement?
> Thanks for your help.
> John
> 100-Six Erick the Red
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From LarryRPH at aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 22:07:27 EDT
Subject: Re: fitting the rocker panels correctly
Roland,
I would strongly urge you to make the final fittings with the wheels on the
ground, not on jacks. Also, have the trans, engine and everything else in.
I went through a resto just as you are doing on did the final door fitting
when the car was supported at the four wheels on jacks. I had a perfect
alignment, took the doors off for painting, painted the whole car andreplaced
the doors, hood, trunk after painting them- all while the car was on jacks.
When I installed the newly painted wheels and tires and lowered the car off
the jacks onto the ground - I could not close the doors!!. Jacking the car
under the frame rail in the vicinity of the door resulted in the frame
flexing back to a position that again allowed the doors to close! I was
able to make some adjustments by shimming the hinges and modifying the pillar
shut panel but I am very disappointed as aside from this problem,all the
other stuff worked out well.
I have been told by a few body and fender guys, that the only way to correct
the problem is to dismantle it and reset it with wheels on the ground. I do
not have the energy , money,or time to do this ,so I will just live with it.
I take consolation in the observation that most Healeys that I see at
Conclave and other meets also have a problem with door alignment. Must be
in the genes!
Good luck
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 22:20:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Dumb Question for BN1/BN2 Owners
Another correction
Thanks Ed and Bob Rich
"Mike,
You still haven't got it right! The unified stuff has a 60: pitch angle
while BSF & BSW are 55:.
Cheers, "Bob".""
--
Is anybody still following this?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyBN4 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 22:38:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch
John, I replaced the brake light switch on my BN4 with the Lucas switch from
Moss. I had no brake lights at all. It works great and was and easy
replacement. Pete Sturtevant
******************************************************************************
********************
Pete Sturtevant - Massachusetts, USA
1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 1966 Mustang GT
1964 Jaguar MK2 3.4 1966 Mustang Convertible
HealeyBN4@aol.com
http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/ <A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/healeybn4/";>My Webpage</A>
******************************************************************************
********************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wm. Severin Thompson" <wsthompson at thicko.com>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 22:40:25 -0500
Subject: JustBrits observation
Somehow, I can equate the computer salesman that sold Ed his pc with the
guy that first sold whiskey to Indians....
(Apologies to all drunk Indians...)
Ed, your act is wearing thin...
WST
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 22:44:54 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering Box
Another thing to check if you have a lot of play at the wheel is whether there
is too much end float on the steering shaft. This could happen if the bearings
that align the worm gear are worn or missing. On the early BN1s these bearings
were loose (as opposed to being trapped in cages) and if someone removed the
end cap they could fall out of their races and into the box.
Bill Lawrence
CNAArndt@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 8/8/01 3:35:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
>
> << By the way, a later steering box definitely WILL NOT
> fit a BN1 - BN1s are a couple inches shorter than the
> six cylinders, and the steering boxes are about an
> inch shorter than the six cyl models. >>
>
> Alan and Mark
>
> Actually there were two different steering boxes used on the BN1/2. The
> original steering box was made by Burman and supplied up to chassis no.
> 230660 (LHD) and 230684 (RHD) respectively in Feb. '56 when this steering box
> was replaced by the Cam Gears unit, which is the same steering box used in
> the very early 100-6s. There were even several modifications to the Burman
> box during production and most importantly about adjusting the steering box
> was the change in Sep. '54 at chassis no. 219137 (LHD) and 219258 (RHD) was
> the addition of a screw-type rocker shaft adjustment instead of the selective
> shim adjustment.
>
> I believe that the later style Burman steering box to be much superior to the
> Cam Gears unit in design and personally know of at least two people who has
> switched from the Cam Gears to the later Burman box on their cars.
>
> If this is confusing probably the best description readily available is to
> look at the diagrams in the Moss Catalog.
>
> Cheers
>
> Curt Arndt
> Carlsbad, CA
> '55 BN1, '60 AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 08:16:00 +0100
Subject: A Dumb Question for BN1/2 Owners - Thread Forms
Sorry Mike but I think that you have got confused here between UNF
(Unified/American Fine) and UNC (Unified/American Coarse) It is UNC
which is very similar to BSW (Whitworth).
Also it is BSF and BSW that have a 55 degree thread form. UNF and UNC
are 60 degree. I think I know what you are trying to say; it just did
not come out right.
For those interested in Old and New Whitworth Bolt Head and Nut sizes, I
have found the following table.
NOMINAL SIZE ACROSS THE FLATS
NEW OLD
1/4" 0.445" 0.525"
5/16" 0.525" 0.600"
3/8" 0.600" 0.710"
7/16" 0.710" 0.820"
1/2" 0.820" 0.920"
As a guide spanners have an A/F of around 6 to 8 thou greater.
All the best
>
>Just to set the record straight...
>
>The pitch of a 5/16 UNF and 5/16 BSW are the same 18 t.p.i. however the
>difference is in the thread form.
>BSF and BSW threads have a 60 degree angle of thread whereas BS threads have a
>55 degree angle of thread.
>Another major difference is that the crests and roots of BS threads are rounded
>whereas UNF and UNC have square crests and rounded roots on internal threads
>and
>rounded roots and square or rounded crests on external threads.
>
>If you are gonna be right you may as well be RIGHT. ;-)
>
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 02:06:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fuel guage readings
Tom -
You musn't live in a very hilly area if you just
noticed that!
All Healeys do this - and in fact many racers prefer a
guage that is sensitive to the sloshing in the tank...
as with a little bit of experience you can always know
exactly how much go juice is in the tank.
All modern guages have a needle which moves very
slowly to counteract the effects of sloshing on the
guage - so it's actually dificult to judge if you have
4 gallons or 2 gallons. I much prefer the healey
guage - but then again I'm a gear head.
The healey guage float itself sits towards the front
of the tank because thats where the fuel intake is -
so you always know if there's gas where the fuel
intake is.
This actually has purpose - believe it or not I ran
out of gas going up hill once with a 40% full tank
because the gas was riding in the back end of the tank
and there was no gas around the pickup line - at first
I panicked but once I figured it out, I just tapped on
the brake a couple times to slosh the gas to the front
a bit and the car started right up again. (I was
heading up hill at a very steady 20 mph for about 7-8
minutes - no sloshing & my float bowls ran empty!)
I've had my BJ8 both in San Francisco and Hong Kong -
both very hilly!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- tom Blaskovics <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu> wrote:
>
> Just had my BJ7 out for a spin and I noticed that
> the fuel guage
> seems to be sensitive to whether I am going up or
> down a hill.
> That doesn't seem to be right. going up hill it
> read empty (incorrect)
> going down hill it read almost full (correct)
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Back on the Road......finally
> MB 450 SL
> Morgantown, WV
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 06:36:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel guage readings
In a message dated 8/10/01 5:13:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
international_investor@yahoo.com writes:
<< All modern guages have a needle which moves very
slowly to counteract the effects of sloshing on the
guage - so it's actually dificult to judge if you have
4 gallons or 2 gallons. I much prefer the healey
guage - but then again I'm a gear head. >>
Isn't this why they installed a tripometer onboard?
Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 05:50:53 -0500
Subject: Re: fitting the rocker panels correctly
larry-
one of our old time ntahc members, eddie miller, now deceased, always preloaded
the chassis with a sack of cement on the "x" if the car was on jack stands.
eddie was one of the original ca hot rodders who could weld aluminum with
oxy/acetylene and if he needed a special tool he made it. a torch in eddie's
hand was like an artist with a brush. it won't be too long before skills such
as this will disappear forever. fortunately, we have several members who were
able to transfer some of eddie's skills before he passed on to hot rod heaven.
jerry
LarryRPH@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Roland,
>
> I would strongly urge you to make the final fittings with the wheels on the
> ground, not on jacks. Also, have the trans, engine and everything else in.
>
> I went through a resto just as you are doing on did the final door fitting
> when the car was supported at the four wheels on jacks. I had a perfect
> alignment, took the doors off for painting, painted the whole car andreplaced
> the doors, hood, trunk after painting them- all while the car was on jacks.
>
> When I installed the newly painted wheels and tires and lowered the car off
> the jacks onto the ground - I could not close the doors!!. Jacking the car
> under the frame rail in the vicinity of the door resulted in the frame
> flexing back to a position that again allowed the doors to close! I was
> able to make some adjustments by shimming the hinges and modifying the pillar
> shut panel but I am very disappointed as aside from this problem,all the
> other stuff worked out well.
>
> I have been told by a few body and fender guys, that the only way to correct
> the problem is to dismantle it and reset it with wheels on the ground. I do
> not have the energy , money,or time to do this ,so I will just live with it.
> I take consolation in the observation that most Healeys that I see at
> Conclave and other meets also have a problem with door alignment. Must be
> in the genes!
>
> Good luck
> Larry Wysocki
> BN 6
> BJ 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:16:15 -0400
Subject: Overdrive pumps
Greeting Healeyites,
This is one for those folks with in-depth knowledge of "A" type
overdrive units.
We are having difficulty getting consistent pressure from a BN1
overdrive. It will drop to almost nothing on occasion and is reluctant
to operate at all..
We have checked all the usual suspects and all is well, however we have
pulled the pump and discovered that there is about 15 thou play in the
roller shaft and bush.
This play will obviously affect the stroke of the pump, and if the bush
is worn eccentrically could in effectively produce a varying stroke
length.
Before I put it all back together again I was wondering if anyone has
encountered this before?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 09:23:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Healthy Healey Heartbeat? Ticker trouble...
>You don't have to tell us because we have a little bug planted on each
>potential Austin-Healey Concours entrant. But don't look for it cause
>you'll never find it.
Have no fear fellow listers. I'm confident concours judges would only use
the finest Lucus bugs. Certain to short after 30 days or the first rain
fall, which ever comes first.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 08:32:55 -0600
Subject: Front suspension, Polybushing, Manuals
GReetins all,
I am progressing with my brake rebuild (past posts) and have been cleaning
up the front suspension, got the disk backing plates and small misc parts
powder coated, painted the majority of the suspension as original... Now
the question.....
While I have this much apart is it worth completely pulling the front
suspension, properly cleaning everything, replacing bushings and
re-assembling..... (maybe putting in poly-busings).. (FYI - the bushings
seem adequate as they are) am I making work or is this (including
polybushings) worthwhile?? Is it difficult removing the front springs,
suspension etc.?
On another note, in celbrating my birthday yesterday I opened a package from
my brother (a Rover P4 owner) and found 1. a 3000 workshop manual, 2. Parts
Manual, 3. Body parts manual (all original issue and just about pristine) as
well as 4. a Geoff Healey book signed by Geoff (too bad my name isn't mike
though).... The manuals sure beat my Haynes........
Anyway.. having fun and have 2 weeks to wait for my servo to come back from
power brake and my master to come back from Apple .....
Thanks in advance.... You all are a great help!!
Cheers.
Jim Sailer 66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:43:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Humour - No Healey content
Gary,
I subscribed to RandT for many years in large part to read Peter Egan. I
love his style.
Incidentally, I have about 11 years of RandT issues for sale if anyone
interested. Drop me a note privately and will give details.
Keith Pennell
> << > The Truth About Tools
> >
> >
> > HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer
> > nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod... >>
>
> For those of you who are tempted to copy this wonderful old chestnut into
> your newsletters, it was originally written by Peter Egan for Road and
Track
> Magazine
> Cheers
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 08:25:59 -0700
Subject: RE: Front suspension, Polybushing, Manuals
Jim,
I have poly bushings on my upper trunion and aren't worthwhile as a rubber
substitute in that position. I think they squeak, but it is hard to tell due
to other noises on my car.
I don't have them on my lowers.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From jmlozano at ismi.net
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 11:58:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Healey for sale
Healeyers!
I have finally made up my mind and the 1960 BT7 is on the block.
It is not fair to the car to just be sitting in the garage.
I bought it a year ago, May, and have only driven it about 50 miles.
This is what I have done since I bought it:
Professional British Mechanic safety/running inspection.
Replaced:
Starter
Fuel tank
Fuel Pump
The car is Healey Blue (I was told the paint is original), it has a hard
top, two sets of windscreens, knock off Panasports, Monza exhaust, Luggage
rack, Wire mesh headlight covers.
For those of you interested and concerned about the miles driven. I put
about 30 of them the weekend of 7/28/01 and it ran great.
The car is located in Southeast Michigan, 10 minutes north of Ann Arbor. I
can provide digital pictures. The asking price is $17,000.
Jorge Lozano
Brighton, MI
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ward Stebner <liason at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 11:21:59 -0600
Subject: Donald Campbell
Just saw a note on television that after 34 years, Donald Campbell's
body has been discovered. I don't know if this is of interest to many
of you but I seem to recall a Healey connection. Weren't Healey
Sportboats used as support boats for Donald Campbell's water speed
record breaking attempts? It will be nice for Donald Campbell's widow
to finally put and end to everything after the boat was lifted recently.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
FROM: Paul Cleary <pcleary at ican.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 15:27:34 -0400
SUBJECT: involved in the
Equipment. Years of successful skills based, on-site training, combined with
dedicated and personalized service carried out by qualified and knowledgeable
instructors, allow us to deliver comprehensive, results-oriented programs that
meet our customers individual and specific needs. F.T.T. staff takes their
training responsibilities seriously, and take pride in the reward that comes
from continued customer satisfaction.
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had
a name of CFGWIZ32.EXE]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Robert Larson <robertlarson at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 19:23:57 -0400
Subject: Wrenches vs Spanners
Hi All,
With all the discussion of wrench sizing here is a great chart
that shows it all with metric ones also included. It is of great use on
rounded nuts and bolts when you want to pick the next smaller size
socket to drive on with a hammer. OOPS, I'm sorry, I forgot this is the
Healey Group. No one here would resort to such barbarian
techniques......
http://home.online.no/~kjellaj/threads/spanners.htm
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 21:21:39 -0400
Subject: Gettysburg encounter
Does anyone have any data on the Gettysburg encounter?
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 22:27:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust hangers
In a message dated 8/9/2001 9:14:45 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
obiedog@telusplanet.net writes:
> On my car there are no captured nuts in the front outrigger (as in the rear)
> to mount the hangers to and the outrigger was not replaced during the
> rebuild.
>
On my BN4 the front exhast hanger bolts (two bolts) to the froor pan just
behind the outrigger.
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 22:45:04 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch
In a message dated 8/9/2001 5:20:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
>
> One person's experience: I had my switch fail when I changed from Dot4 to
> Silicone Brake fluid -- it was the only component that failed on the car
> when
> I made the change, so I don't want to get into an "I told you so" about use
> of silicone -- apparently the innards got gummed up. When I bought the
> generic replacement, I discovered it took a different wrench to install it
> (this switch has a hex-shaped body that screws into the brake line
> manifold)
> than the one to remove the old switch, so I wound up buying an original one
> from a friend who happened to have one in his garage.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
>
>
Gary,
Thanks for the reply. Your info explains the reason Cully's switch is not
working correctly. The fellow who restored the car told us he rebuilt the
brakes and put in silicone fluid. Most likely he did not replace the brake
switch and this explains the problem. Thanks also for the tip in Lucus vs
non-Lucus. We need to use the Lucus switch.
This list is great!!
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 22:53:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch
In a message dated 8/9/2001 10:54:05 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
thehartnetts@earthlink.net writes:
>
> John: Since you indicate that Cully would use either the Lucas or non-Lucas
> switch ($18.95 and $14.75 respectively), indicating that originality is not
> a concern, let me tell you what I did. Chief Auto Supply (now Auto Zone):
> stop light switch, part number PT3211B, $7.49 plus Orchard Supply Hardware,
> 3/16 FLR X 1/8 FPT Adaptor, part number 9073131, $.59 (both parts plus tax).
> I recommend a good flat washer (metal gasket) between adaptor and union to
> assure no leaks. Has worked well for me for several years (I did have
> brake lights on the way to Oregon, didn't I?). All this assuming the the
> BN4 and BJ8 are similar.
>
> Len.
>
Len,
Thanks for the great info. Since Cully's car may go for a concourse judging,
he'll most likely want the original Lucus switch. Yes you did have brake
lights on the way to Grants Pass. Wasn't that a great week!
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BlkBT7 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 23:11:05 EDT
Subject: (no subject)
Does anyone have any data on the Gettysburg encounter?
As I recall the Union Army won and the Confederate Army lost!!! :)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 00:18:42 -0400
Subject: Re: fitting the rocker panels correctly
> The projection on the rocker does not exactly match the length of my
> doors. I can match front or rear edge but not both, unless I build up
> the rocker with weld, or lead, or metal filled polyester. Should I
> build up the rocker to match the door or leave well enough alone. I
> am not very enthusiastic about reshaping the bottom edges of the
> fenders to raise the rocker 1/8 to 3/16", but if I don't the gap at
> the door bottom will be about 1/4 to 3/8".
I encountered the same difference in length on 3 sets of rockers I have
installed. I added length to the raised portion with some weld. On the gap
try placing a floor jack and length of 2x4 under the rocker and jacking
and/or bouncing the car some. This assumes the rocker is firmly welded to
the inner sill. This is due to some variation in the cross section of the
rocker.
> What about the seal between fender and rocker? Should I shim any gaps
> between them with non corroding materials, or leave them open?
Leave the gap between the rocker and fender as this is a way to flush out
debris.
>
> The fronts of the rocker panels are open with no tabs or flanges to
> facilitate attachment to the hinge pillar. Should I make some tabs up
> and do my best to seal the front face of the rocker panels?
The rockers ought to come with tabs already spot welded on. Definitely make
them. I would strongly suggest that you close up the front and rear end of
the rocker and also drill 1/2 inch drain holes toward the front and rear
end.
>
> Is it important that I dump the transmission and O/D back into the
> cockpit to add weight to the chassis? The front engine mounts are
> just about over the front suspension and I don't suspect that much
> engine weight is exerted amidships by them
Either put them back in or substitute a couple bags of sand. One advantage
to using sand is that you can then tell the wife afterward that you need
sand blasting equipment to go with the sand afterward! :)
> Any other advice or suggestions? I don't mind a lot of fiddling now,
> but I surely don't want to have to do it over later..
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> -Roland
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 21:34:29 -0700
Subject: Re: fitting the rocker panels correctly. Interim report
So far the vote is about 5 to zero for loading the chassis with engine
and O/D or the equivalent and setting the car on its wheels. I can do
that (the rear axle etc is still in the car), although I can't figure
out why it would make any difference whether I support the car at the
outer ends of the front suspension or on the front wheels. Similarly
for the rear end, the axle and the jack stands are both pushing on the
same parts of the rear springs. Anyhow, setting on wheels and
loading with sandbags or iron is simple enough to do and will reduce
anxiety if nothing else.
What about my other questions? The ones about fitting the rocker
panel to the fenders (or vice versa), filling in gaps between fenders
and rockers with something that won't cause trouble later, centering
or extending the raised portion of the rocker to match the length of
the doors, and making up tabs or flanges to seal off the fronts of the
rockers to the hinge pillars?
Any light to shed on these question?
I just realized that aside from a couple of rust through spots on a
door, I am finished with the rust elimination repairs. Now it's just
refinishing and engine repairs and ..... Heading for Open Roads 2002.
Thanks,
-Roland
BN1, BJ7
San Diego
On Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:27:39 -0700, Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
wrote:
:: It is about time for me to fit my replacement rocker panels on my BN1.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Warren Dietz" <flyhihealey at hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 06:27:42 -0400
Subject: Throttle link bushing results
Thanks for the usual excellent wisdom laced comments from the list. Thanks
Doug Reid with the adjustment info. I think David Nock's reply about metal
bushings could have been for the "firewall" bush. David?
I have ordered from Healey Surgeons and will now have "another spare" to add
to my twist tie bag.
BTW, the epoxy did not hold and I had to twist tie drive home again!
Warren 67BJ8
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Kbah100 at cs.com
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 07:45:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Gettysburg encounter
In a message dated 08/10/2001 9:26:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu writes:
Tom: I think you are looking for Lancaster Pa. Starts 8/15. Check the AHSTC
website for location and details.
Ken Beck
> Does anyone have any data on the Gettysburg encounter?
>
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Back on the Road......finally
> MB 450 SL
> Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 10:22:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Cowl shake and body flex, Re: fitting the rocker panels
Roland,
The legs are about 1". you can barely see one in the interior shots of Zora.
Yes, seam weld them! The more welds the better! For rigity, I have the
vertical flange up. With the radiator in the Trunk, I now miss the Healey
Heat in the winter. The car does not require insulation or carpet!
Rich Wright
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wilhelmy" <rwil@cts.com>
To: "Richard Wright" <duntov1@home.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001 9:51 AM
Subject: Re: Cowl shake and body flex, Re: fitting the rocker panels
correctly.
Thanks very much, Rich. It's amazing how filing down a bit of weld
bead from the upper mounting flange on the door changes the geometry
of the door opening. I'll load up the cockpit with 400# of sand.
That ought to get me somewhere near the combination of tranny and
occupant loading.
I am trying to visualize the 3/16 angle iron reinforcement. How long
are the legs of the angle iron? I guess the vertical flange is
pointed up, so it rides over the outriggers, etc. and isn't notched to
sit flat over them with the flange pointed down? And the floors are
tacked or seam welded to the angle iron? I can do this, because I
have the new floors and haven't yet welded them into place.
-Roland
On Sat, 11 Aug 2001 06:50:02 -0500, "Richard Wright"
<duntov1@home.com> wrote:
:: I use to own a body shop working on Brit cars. The Healeys were the
hardest
:: cars of all to paint. FROM EXPERIENCE, YOU HAVE TO DO ALL WELDING WHILE
THE
:: CAR IS LOADED AND ON THE WHEELS AND TIRES,AND DOORS ON, OR THE DAMN DOORS
:: AND ROCKER PANELS WILL NOT FIT!!!!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 10:48:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY AND PICNIC 2001
SAN DIEGO BRITISH CAR DAY AND PICNIC
Sunday, October 7, 2001
Fairbrook Farms, Bonsall, California
San Diego British Car Club Council and Home Town Buffet
bring you the 22nd Annual San Diego British Car Day.
Our event seeks to foster camaraderie among Southern
California British car enthusiasts. This is an "owners'
car show." You will see everyday drivers, concours
quality cars, and "beaters"! Please plan to drive your
British car!
* PREREGISTRATION: $10.00 per car(mail before Sept.15)
* DAY OF SHOW: $15.00 per vehicle
* WALK-IN VISITORS - $2.00 - CHILDREN UNDER 15 - Free
REGISTRATION: 9:00 a.m.
SHOW: 10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
FOOD: You may bring your own picnic or purchase your
lunch from Home Town Buffet!
VENDORS:Spaces $35 - Contact John Barnard
evenings: 619-659-0253; day 619-461-1885
TROPHIES AND RECOGNITION:
To be considered, please have your car in place by 11AM
Cars: Best Of Show - Popular vote - please see ballot
in your show packet
Best Of Marque - Popular vote - please see ballot
in your show packet
Long Distance - Vehicle driven (not towed) longest
distance specifically for this event
Best "Beater" - The car most in need of restoration,
must be running!
Also: Best Club Presentation
Best Classic Picnic (Judging: 11:30 to Noon)
"British Spirit Awards"
PLEASE NOTE: Quantity of trophies & awards based
upon number of cars PRE-REGISTERED!
PICK UP YOUR SOUVENIR PIN AT THE SHOW!
QUESTIONS? Please pick an area code and call us:
(760) 746-9028 Steve
(858) 566-6619 Maggie
(909) 693-9094 Joe
(619) 575-5625 Paul
Voting and Awards Details will be in your packet on Oct 7th.
DIRECTIONS: Fairbrook Farms is located on Mission Road near
State Highway 76, which connects with Interstate 5 and I15.
FROM I-5: At Oceanside, go East on Highway 76 (Mission Ave-
nue) about 12 miles. Turn Left on Mission Road at
the traffic light. The site is 1/4 mile on the Left.
FROM I-15: Thirteen (13) miles north of Escondido or 11
miles south of Temecula, go West on Highway 76 (Pala
Road) 4 1/2 miles. Turn Right on Mission Road at the
traffic light. The site is 1/4 mile on the Left.
PRE-REGISTRATION FORM AT: www.sandiegobritishcarday.org
MAIL BEFORE SEPT. 15th to:
San Diego British Car Club Council
P. O. Box 710131
San Diego CA 92171-0131
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TimWardUK at aol.com
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 13:49:37 EDT
Subject: Poppimg Noise
Hi All
Some help would be appreciated to identify a new noise which has just started
on my 59 Frogeye. When I took it out for a spin today I heard a single "pop"
(just like popping a finger in the mouth) every time I took my foot off the
accelerator quickly. Sometimes, also, when I put on the power hard, but not
so noticeable. It seemed to be coming more from behind than in front. I have
recently upgraded the engine to a 1275 from the original 948.
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Tim
59 Frogeye
67 BJ8.
Tim Ward
Warwick House
12 Mill Road
Kislingbury
Northants. NN7 4BB
Tel/Fax: 44.1604.832.901
E-Mail: TimWardUk@aol.com
Mobile: 44.7855.388.751
www.TimWardAssociates.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The Wards" <russward at lineone.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 21:14:37 +0100
Subject: Earls Court Show 1952
Can anyone tell me the exact date in 1952 that the Healey Hundred apprerded
at the Earls Court Motor Show.
Mell Ward
100/6 300 Register Secretary UK
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Fred "Ooman" <KingPin at cosmo.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 14:17:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Dash work.
Im getting ready to rehab the driver side dash panel on a BJ8. This is my
first time and Id appreciate some input on what to expect.
I do have a few questions
Does the steering wheel or column need to be moved/removed?
If all the wires are taped and secured, and the temp sensor hole plugged, will
the 3000 still be drivable?
Any other tips or shortcuts or pointers are most welcome.
My apologies if this is a repeat message, it looks like not everyone received a
the messages earlier this week, so I thought I'd re-post in hopes that somebody
can provide some insight into this task.
==
Fred
'67 BJ8
_____________________________________________________________
Get email for your site ---> http://mail.cosmo.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 17:18:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Earls Court Show 1952
Hi Mell,
I have the Autocar London Show Report that presumably was the program for the
show dated October 24, 1952. It has a huge number of advertisements, the
layout of the show, stand by stand description of the cars, and lots of
accessories etc. The Healey was on stand 113 and there is a full description
of the car on page 1390 to 1391. Hope that helps.
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 17:44:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Dash work.
Hi, Fred -
If you remove all of the instruments first, you should be able to remove the
wood dash panel without removing the steering wheel and you can certainly do
it without removing the steering column. Removing the steering wheel makes
it a lot easier to get under the dash to remove the attaching bolts and
screws, but you could also remove the driver's seat to give you better
access.
It's easier to remove the large instruments (speedo and tach) first and use
the holes to allow access to the others. If you have any doubt about your
ability to plug all the wires back in their proper places, make sketches and
notes to yourself about wire colors and where they go as you remove them.
This will come in handy later.
If you are going to remove the water temp sensor/oil pressure gauge and try
to drive the car, you're going to have to figure out how to seal the oil
pressure line that screws into the back of the gauge. You could possibly
remove the dash then reinstall the water temp sensor line and connect the
oil pressure line to the gauge, supporting the gauge somehow temporarily.
After removing the tachometer, you'll have to reconnect the white wire that
forms a loop on the back of the tach to the ignition switch or the car won't
run.
I don't know what you plan to use to refinish the wood dash panel, but I had
great success using a product called Envirotex Lite. Details on request.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Ooman" <KingPin@cosmo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001 5:17 PM
Subject: Dash work.
>
> Im getting ready to rehab the driver side dash panel on a BJ8. This is
my first time and Id appreciate some input on what to expect.
>
> I do have a few questions
>
> Does the steering wheel or column need to be moved/removed?
>
> If all the wires are taped and secured, and the temp sensor hole plugged,
will the 3000 still be drivable?
>
> Any other tips or shortcuts or pointers are most welcome.
>
> My apologies if this is a repeat message, it looks like not everyone
received a the messages earlier this week, so I thought I'd re-post in hopes
that somebody can provide some insight into this task.
>
> ==
> Fred
>
> '67 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 15:08:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 2001 Austin-Healey Resource Book
Hi Team,
Just a note that the Austin-Healey Club USA's 2001 Resource Book
<http://www.healey.org/resource-book.shtml> is in the mail, and when you
receive yours take a close look in the envelope for a bonus: two stickers of
the club crest <http://www.healey.org/crest.shtml>. One of the stickers has
the stick'em on the front for putting on the inside of glass, and the other
one has the stick'em on the back. Hope to see lots of them on Healey
windscreens soon! Enjoy.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 21:55:35 -0400
Subject: Healey Construction
Hi Roland,
I've been reading this ongoing advice you've been getting from a lot of
different people, and what's this I see about angle iron?
I beg you....do NOT go fitting up and welding such garbage on your pride and
joy!!!!
First, consider that these cars had their bodies completely assembled and
fitted without any mechanicals in place at all. They were painted, partially
trimmed out, then went to Longbridge for the installation of all the drive
train and so on. And everything fit, at least within acceptable manufacturing
tolerances.
The Hundred, especially was not prone to cowl and body shake. The later six
cylinder cars did suffer this problem, and that was especially true with the
later convertibles with their much heavier windscreen assembly, etc.
The guy with the body shop I suspect was often getting older tired cars in for
a cosmetic facelift. In all likelihood these cars were mostly sixes, and
probably if the truth were known, the inner sills, rockers, floors and ends of
outriggers were already in poor shape, therefore causing the structural flex
he cited.
The Healey is a semi frame, semi unibody structure, where the frame members,
outriggers, inner sills, outer rockers, door shut pillars, hinge pillars,
cowls, scuttle panels and box sections, even the floors work as an integral
team to stiffen and strengthen the unit.
I maintain that if you support the chassis evenly, with drive train installed
or not it shouldn't matter, at least within thousandths of an inch. Use the
body panel alignment and door gaps as your indicator. Weld inner sills,
outrigger repair or replacement as needed, outer rockers, floors, etc. and
continue checking the fit of the doors and panels constantly. Do one side only
at a time if you can, leaving the other side intact to both check fitting
details, and help keep some sort of structural integrity while the repair side
is being worked on.
DO NOT go fitting angle iron, extra plating, or any other non original
metalwork. To paraphrase Bogey....You may not regret it today, but you soon
will, and for the rest of the time you own the car.
All the best.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 22:53:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Dash work.
Fred -
You don't need to remove the steering column, but it
helps alot to remove the steering wheel (although, you
don't really need to remove it either). It helps a
little to remove the padded dash top as well.
When taking the dash out and putting it back in, the
best and easiest way is to remove it as one unit (with
Glove box attached, but glove box lid removed).
Trying to remove simply one side or the other is VERY
difficult.
Of course the car is driveable, as long as you got
something plugging the temperature snsor in the head
and the oil pressure guage is still hooked up
(otherwise oil will squirt out when you start the
car).
Cheers!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Fred Ooman <KingPin@cosmo.com> wrote:
>
> Im getting ready to rehab the driver side dash
> panel on a BJ8. This is my first time and Id
> appreciate some input on what to expect.
>
> I do have a few questions
>
> Does the steering wheel or column need to be
> moved/removed?
>
> If all the wires are taped and secured, and the temp
> sensor hole plugged, will the 3000 still be
> drivable?
>
> Any other tips or shortcuts or pointers are most
> welcome.
>
> My apologies if this is a repeat message, it looks
> like not everyone received a the messages earlier
> this week, so I thought I'd re-post in hopes that
> somebody can provide some insight into this task.
>
> ==
> Fred
>
> '67 BJ8
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 10:05:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Construction
<<DO NOT go fitting angle iron, extra plating, or any other non original
metalwork. To paraphrase Bogey....You may not regret it today, but you soon
will, and for the rest of the time you own the car.
>>
VERY well said, Rich!!
Agree and DITTO!!
Regards........
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 09:30:39 -0700
Subject: Re: fitting the rocker panels correctly -- final report?
Thank you one and all. Thank you to those who took the trouble to
write comments, and thank you to the rest who had to put up with a
pretty good sized bunch of messages on the list.
I feel pretty sure about what I want to do for my car, and pretty sure
that there isn't some huge fact that I am unaware of that would affect
the result.
Yesterday I bought 400 pounds of silica sand and put it in the cockpit
area, observing the alignment of the doors to the shut pillar (and
aluminum trim pieces) before and after. I cannot see any change in
door alignment, so I believe that in my '53 BN1 at least, the presence
or absence of engine, transmission/OD and/or occupants will not make a
signifigant difference in door alignment. If I can fit 'em right,
they should stay right.
I will fit and weld the rocker panels and the floors with care,
keeping in mind how much properly placed sheet metal with right angles
in it can do to increase strength and rigidity.
I will fabricate flanges to close off the front of the rockers and
keep water and debris out of the rockers, and I will make sure there
are holes in the bottoms of the rockers to clean out the inevitable
debris and drain out the water. I will do the best I can fitting the
fenders around the rocker panels snuggly and with reshaping the
rockers to match the length of the doors.
And then I will go on to work on another part of the restoration :-)
Thanks again,
-Roland
San Diego
On Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:27:39 -0700, Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
wrote:
::
:: It is about time for me to fit my replacement rocker panels on my BN1.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 12:46:32 -0400
Subject: Re: fitting the rocker panels correctly -- final report?
"Yesterday I bought 400 pounds of silica sand and put it in the cockpit
area,"
......and you will have enough for a pretty good sand box ;-)
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RAntal243 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 13:19:15 EDT
Subject: heater removal help!
Greetings,
I am engaged in the most miserable job I've ever had to do on My
BJ8--removal of the heater box to replace the leaking valve in the box. Can
anyone suggest the easiest way to do this? Would removing the padded dash
help? Getting it detached by working under the dash has been punishingly
slow and frustrating. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.........Rich Antal
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 10:25:48 -0700
Subject: SD Healey Hearsay Electronic Edition updated
Hi,
I just uploaded the August issue: www.sdhealey.org/hh.
Rick
--
Rick Snover, San Diego, California
Vice President/Membership Coordinator
Austin-Healey Club of San Diego <http://www.sdhealey.org>
Editor, Healey Hearsay <http://www.sdhealey.org/hh>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 14:37:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Healthy Healey Heartbeat? Ticker trouble...
You might get one tick of the fuel pump after you turn it off, due to the
diaphragm relaxing.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Salter" <magicare@home.com>
To: "Dennis O'Connor" <boyo@homeacres.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: Healthy Healey Heartbeat? Ticker trouble...
>
> Dennis O'Connor wrote:
>
> > Now it is almost a constant tick...tick...tick... Even with the key off
it
> > keeps ticking.
>
> Hi Dennis,
>
> There is no way that your fuel pump should "tick" with the ignition turned
off.
> Once the voltage is turned off the pump cannot "tick"
>
> I think you need to check a little more for the source of the noise.
>
> If it only "ticks" while you are moving along the road it is more likely
to be a
> loose rear wheel spline which is very dangerous.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Mike Salter
> http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 14:38:13 -0400
Subject: lost name
I lost the name of someone who rebuilt a bj8 blue over white with right-hand
drive. If I remember correctly they used a Jules (sp?) frame. If you can help
please forward info.
Thanks Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 11:52:00 -0700
Subject: Re: fitting the rocker panels correctly -- final report?
Yep, and maybe that will be all I'll be good for after this :-)
Actually, I use the stuff in my pressure blaster. Yes, I have a hood
with fresh air supply. Yes, I use it on steel body panels. No, I
would never use sand on aluminum, and walnut shells aren't very
effective against paint. This is my second car. No ill effects, no
warping. I run 55 psi and blast at oblique angles and exercise a bit
of care. Getting the last bits of sand out of the seams is a chore,
though.
-Roland
On Sun, 12 Aug 2001 12:46:32 -0400, Krazy Kiwi <magicare@home.com>
wrote:
::
:: "Yesterday I bought 400 pounds of silica sand and put it in the cockpit
:: area,"
::
:: ......and you will have enough for a pretty good sand box ;-)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 13:33:42 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: Re: Whitworth head sizes
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 09:04:12 +0100
From: John Harper <john@jharper.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Whitworth head sizes
Bob
I have done a bit of "digging" over the last couple of days.
The "new" Whitworth Bolt Head and Nut size British Standard is dated
1946. However many retired enginners have told me that this change
started at least as early as the beginning of WWII in Europe. Some say
that smaller heads first appeared in the late 1930s before this date.
What most believe happened, was that fixings manufacturers took their
own decision to save material. There might then have been a "War
Directive". By the end of the war this had now become the "new" standard
so in 1946 it was formalised.
This last paragraph is not supported by any written evidence but can be
treated as "highly likely". It also comfirms previous input to this
list.
All the best
>
>Your table of old and new Whitworth head sizes is perfectly correct.
>However, you didn't date it. Unless my memory has failed me completely,the
>"new" smaller sizes have been in effect for BSF bolts for more than 60 years
>and are all you will find on a Healey. If there are any BSW bolts they will
>have the "old" size head. If I'm wrong, please correct me.
>
>Cheers, "Bob".
- --
John Harper
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 13:34:29 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: Switch Failure
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: RAntal243@aol.com
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 07:17:35 EDT
Subject: Switch Failure
Greeting Fellow Sufferers,
The Prince of Darkness paid me a visit a few nights ago while I was
cruising in Northern Maine at midnight. The headlights, panel lights, tail
lights and parking lights all failed within a few seconds of beginning to
dim. I was following my Healey buddy and since there was no traffic at that
time, I stayed close and followed him the ten miles home, cut the battery
switch and went to bed cursing my misfortune.
Inspection in the morning revealed that the wires attached to the light
switch were cooked--melted and fused together. I slit the harness and traced
them back about 18 inches to where I could separate them, cut off the dead
wire and spliced in new wire. My friend Bob Bartlett had a used wiper switch
and utilizing that, I was able to get the lights working and return to New
Hampshire. Testing of the light switch that had failed revealed that it would
conduct no current in any position and I theorize that it had failed
internally and provided so much resistance to the brown wire bringing current
from the voltage regulator that the brown wire melted and took adjacent wires
with it. How can I prevent a recurrence? What size fuses do I need to splice
inline to individually fuse each headlight, and the tail lights and the
switch of course? Thanks for your help. And oh, by the way, after I put
everything back in order with a NOS light switch and reinstalled the console
and all the stuff I had to remove to get at the harness, I drove a couple of
miles and radiator fluid began pouring out of the heater box valve into the
cockpit; the same valve that I had painfully replaced 5 years ago. So much
for the quality of replacement parts. Time to get out the Motrin and a
dictionary of new curse words.
Rich Antal
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 13:38:31 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Oops
That last one from Rich Antal was sent out correctly earlier in the week,
I forwarded the wrong one, sorry.
mjb.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 17:13:21 -0500
Subject: Re: (no subject)
>Does anyone have any data on the Gettysburg encounter?
>
>As I recall the Union Army won and the Confederate Army lost!!! :)
Bob, Which side were you on? ;-0
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bruce Starke" <bstarke at redshift.bc.ca>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 17:35:14 -0000
Subject: MK11 Sprite question
Anyone with a MK11 sprite, please help!!
I have replaced the wiring harness and cannot work out the connections for the
indicator switch--which wire colour connects to which terminal. I have looked
at the manual but am no further ahead.
Thanks
Bruce Starke
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jerry Costanzo" <costan0 at attglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 16:43:11 -0700
Subject: distributor Springs?
Did anyone find a source for distributor springs?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 20:03:43 -0400
Subject: Oil and Temperature Gauge
Hi Listers,
I am looking for an oil and temperature gauge for
my BJ7. The one from MOSS has a black face and
that is not what I want. If you have one that is in reasonable
shape and a reasonable price please contact me.
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Bob <jearich at mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 18:11:30 -0600
Subject: Re: distributor Springs?
on 8/12/01 5:43 PM, Jerry Costanzo at costan0@attglobal.net wrote:
>
> Did anyone find a source for distributor springs?
Jerry,
Abingdon Spares used to carry them.
Cheers, "Bob".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "robin graham" <robingraham at ameritech.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 19:08:12 -0500
Subject: Engine Boging down!
Hello all. I have a 62 BT7 with two carbs. I have recently installed new lines
and a new tank and after 2 years of restoring I turned the key, it started
fine and then 15 feet out of the drive way it bogged down. To much gas in the
carbs I guess.
I guess because I am a novice. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Stephen - Chicago
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 10:32:10 +1000
Subject: RE: Donald Campbell
G'day Ward
Thanks for that little piece of information about Donald Campbell.
You're right two Healey Sportsboats were used as tender craft for Campbell's
ill-fated attempt at the World's Water Speed record. However I have never
read anything about who provided the boats or if Campbell himself owned
them.
>From the pics I've seen the boats were the early clinker style fitted with
the Healey marine version of the BMC/MG 1500 engine.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: Ward Stebner [mailto:liason@sk.sympatico.ca]
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001 3:22 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Donald Campbell
Just saw a note on television that after 34 years, Donald Campbell's
body has been discovered. I don't know if this is of interest to many
of you but I seem to recall a Healey connection. Weren't Healey
Sportboats used as support boats for Donald Campbell's water speed
record breaking attempts? It will be nice for Donald Campbell's widow
to finally put and end to everything after the boat was lifted recently.
Ward Stebner
Saskatoon, Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 18:04:52 -0700
Subject: Mendocino Tour August 25
Event Update - Mendocino Run
August 25-26, 2001
Meet in the parking lot of the former Remark's Harbor House in Vallejo at
9AM Saturday August 25.
Directions: Take Tennessee Avenue exit from I-80 in Vallejo (from
south,
cross Carquinez Bridge). Follow Tennessee Ave to the end at the entrance
to the old Mare Island Navy Yard. Go left onto Mare Island Way and proceed
< mile to Harbor Way. Restaurant is located on the left about < mile up.
(I believe it is now called The Barge.)
Tour will proceed north through Napa and onto the Silverado Trail, then
north to Calistoga and onto Route 128. We will continue north on 128 and
stop at Jimtown for lunch. The tour will then continue north on 128 into
Cloverdale, across 101 and northwest on 128 with a stop at Booneville and
an Anderson Valley winery.
We will continue up 128 to Route 1; north past Mendocino and up to the
Tradewinds Lodge in Fort Bragg. We plan to arrive around 5PM. We have
arranged for dinner Saturday night at the Little River Inn south of
Mendocino. Sunday is open for touring the area and return to the Bay Area.
If you wish to reserve a room at the Tradewinds Lodge for Saturday night,
call them at 707-964-4761 and use my name. Also if you plan to have dinner
with us, please let me know by e-mail at john4@home.com or at
408-541-9608.
Thanks and see you on Saturday the 25th. John Trifari
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 20:58:59 EDT
Subject: Re: How old would donald be?
In a message dated 8/11/01 3:28:05 PM, lrcar@red4est.com writes:
<<It just occurred to me, wouldn't Donald Healey be about 100 now?
Larry>>
DMH was born July 3, 1898 and passed away on January 15, 1988. Fortunately,
he lived long enough to see the affection we held for him and his cars.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 21:23:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: How old would donald be?
Rick,
You left out the violins.
Fred
On Sun, 12 Aug 2001 20:58:59 EDT HealeyRic2@aol.com wrote:
DMH was born July 3, 1898 and passed away on January 15, 1988. Fortunately,
he lived long enough to see the affection we held for him and his cars.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 19:14:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Healey Construction
I also agree. I am in the process of restoring a virtually rust-free BT7
MK2 (only rust in the dog legs, and a little in the trunk floor). As a
result of many previous posts, I was very aware of the discussion about
needing to have the power train installed to "pre-load" the chassis, and
wondered how the factory did such a thing, as there are many factory photos
of the engine being installed in a car w/ all the panels in place.
Therefore, I took very careful measurements at the top of the door opening
(front hinge pillar to door shut pillar) before and after removing the
drive train. THERE WAS NO DIFFERENCE!
I guess if you have a rotten frame, all this changes.
John Snyder
'60 BT7
'61 BN7 MK2
'62 BT7 MK2
----------
> From: JustBrits <justbrits@home.com>
> To: Rich C <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>; Healeys
<healeys@autox.team.net>; rwil@cts.com
> Subject: Re: Healey Construction
> Date: Sunday, August 12, 2001 8:05 AM
>
>
> <<DO NOT go fitting angle iron, extra plating, or any other non original
> metalwork. To paraphrase Bogey....You may not regret it today, but you
soon
> will, and for the rest of the time you own the car.
> >>
>
> VERY well said, Rich!!
>
> Agree and DITTO!!
>
> Regards........
>
> Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 19:37:59 -0700
Subject: Fw: Healey Construction
> I also agree. I am in the process of restoring a virtually rust-free BT7
> MK2 (only rust in the dog legs, and a little in the trunk floor). As a
> result of many previous posts, I was very aware of the discussion about
> needing to have the power train installed to "pre-load" the chassis, and
> wondered how the factory did such a thing, as there are many factory
photos
> of the engine being installed in a car w/ all the panels in place.
>
> Therefore, I took very careful measurements at the top of the door
opening
> (front hinge pillar to door shut pillar) before and after removing the
> drive train. THERE WAS NO DIFFERENCE!
>
> I guess if you have a rotten frame, all this changes.
>
> John Snyder
>
> '60 BT7
> '61 BN7 MK2
> '62 BT7 MK2
>
> ----------
> > From: JustBrits <justbrits@home.com>
> > To: Rich C <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>; Healeys
> <healeys@autox.team.net>; rwil@cts.com
> > Subject: Re: Healey Construction
> > Date: Sunday, August 12, 2001 8:05 AM
> >
> >
> > <<DO NOT go fitting angle iron, extra plating, or any other non
original
> > metalwork. To paraphrase Bogey....You may not regret it today, but you
> soon
> > will, and for the rest of the time you own the car.
> > >>
> >
> > VERY well said, Rich!!
> >
> > Agree and DITTO!!
> >
> > Regards........
> >
> > Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Fawcett" <fawcett1 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 19:55:40 -0700
Subject: Re: distributor Springs?
When I made the same inquiry sometime ago, Magnus Karlsson sent this
to me. I never confirmed this.
Cambridge Motorsports in England has them.
+44-17676 77026
> Did anyone find a source for distributor springs?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MRSTRAB at aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 01:24:09 EDT
Subject: Sources for screws/bolts
Hello list,
I recently bought a 67 BJ8, and I am looking for replacement screws for the
wing-window upper top bracket to frame -- was pozidriv chrome panhead? Any
help locating source would be appreciated. (Moss lists as NA)
Mike Rouse
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 02:33:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: heater removal help!
Rich -
Removing the padded dash top will provide no help! -
Believe it or not, you can replace the valve without
removing the heater box -
There are only two bolts which hold the valve to the
box (you can feel them on either side of the valve).
Once the two bolts are removed (use a 1/4" ratchet w/
5/16" socket... I think - or possibly a 5/16"
ratcheting spanner, if you have one), you can simply
pull the valve down, loosen the hose clamp & replace.
I've done it this way before. If the valve is stuck
on top of the box after removing the bolts, it simply
means the gasket is sticking.
If you insist on lowering the heater box - this will
make the valve just a little more accessable, but take
a little more time. remove the six panhead posidrive
screws holding the heater box to the heater channel
(maybe 8?) - there should be three (4?) screws on each
side. Once this is removed, you can lower the heater
box slightly (the screws are pretty easy to get to,
you shouldn't have to remove the dash or centre
console), and then get a little better access to the
valve.
It shouldn't take you more than 30 min to an hour to
finish the whole job. It's actually fairly easy
despite the tight quarters. When you put the valve
back on, replace the gasket if possible, if not, some
permatex copper silicon will do the trick - the valve
will probably wear out before the permatex (to put it
mildly, the replacement valves suck - they typically
last less than 5 years).
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- RAntal243@aol.com wrote:
>
> Greetings,
> I am engaged in the most miserable job I've
> ever had to do on My
> BJ8--removal of the heater box to replace the
> leaking valve in the box. Can
> anyone suggest the easiest way to do this? Would
> removing the padded dash
> help? Getting it detached by working under the dash
> has been punishingly
> slow and frustrating. Any suggestions appreciated.
> Thanks.........Rich Antal
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 06:03:43 -0400
Subject: Hydraulic Cylinder Rebuild
List:
I am now rebuilding my wheel cylinders, masters, and calipers. Some years
ago I rebuilt a TR3. At one point it sat for many months without being used
and afterwards I found the wheel cylinders were sticking. On dismantling
they had some sort of crystallization of the brake fluid on the cylinder
wall at the edge of the rubber on the piston (the fluid was silicone based).
I cleaned them out and they worked fine.
Is there any disadvantage to rebuilding the hydraulics now even though they
will sit for many months before being used? (The manual calls for
prelubricating the parts with brake fluid during assembly). I have some
Lucas Brake Grease (red and green versions) . Would that be a better
assembly lubricant than brake fluid?
John Cope
62 BT7 Tricarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 06:18:48 -0400
Subject: Front Wheel Bearings
List:
Recently there was a post that described a "dry" (no grease) method of
determining front wheel bearing end float. If anyone still has it, please
send it to me off list.
Thanks,
John Cope
naku@wayxcable.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 09:12:14 -0400
Subject: English but no LBC content
Just trying to capture some wisdom from the group.. Does anybody have any
idea what a complete set of Un-opened (still in the plastic wrapper) mint
condition Beatle's albums would be worth?? Just curious..
Steve
61BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 08:44:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Construction
Rich C,
Of the twenty or so Healeys I restored, most of them were extremely solid
and from Texas. Now that you made me think about it, most of these cars had
very bad shocks front and rear. These cars had been ridden to death because
of the heavy-yet-durable drive trains, and rough Texas streets from the
'50's and '60's. These cars indeed had alot of flex even though they were
relatively rust free. Previous owners of these cars were too cheap to pay
$100 for a shock absorber that was only $10 on a Mustang! The unibody on
frame welds were often ripped, these cars had been in a accident or two, and
were often there was body panel damage of some sort, effecting the door
alignment. Cowl shake was evident also. These cars often had panel alignment
problems to begin with, having used panels put on them. Healey panels do not
exchange well, car-to car.
We would disassemble the cars, fit the body panels, paint and reassemble
these cars, and our redone alignments were would then pinch the doors.
Eventually we learned to do all aligning with the motors in the cars and the
wheels on the ground. It only takes once, of damaging a $3000 paint job , to
never take a chance AGAIN!
These cars were survivors, but did not have the best of owners or mechanics
to take care of them, not to mention rough roads.
This may be the case for most Healeys- especially the 6 cylinder cars! It is
not difficult to set the motor in the car while trying to get good body
lines. This may not be the case for a high itegrity, low mileage, good owner
and mechanic Healey, that has never had rust or an accident, but most
enthusiasts on this list do not have this luxury. Most of the auto-x listers
will need to set the motor/ tranny in the car, and have the wheels on the
ground! This is the opinion of many other EXPERIENCED listers as well.
Don't let your single opinion and good fortune, encourage someone to skip a
step, and damage a paint job!
Richard Wright
Driving and repairing Healeys since 1970
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich C" <rich.chrysler@sympatico.ca>
To: "Richard Wright" <duntov1@home.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2001 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Construction
>
>
> > Rich Chrysler,
> > What experience do you have with Healeys?
> Quite a lot.
> >
> > How Many have you owned?
> 7 restored to completion for ourselves.
> >
> > worked on?
> Partial or full restorations for others, about 15 or so.
> >
> > and for how many years?
> 27 years
> >
> > How many miles have you driven Healeys?
> I'd have to estimate I suppose almost 200,000 over the years. I always
felt
> that they should be restored as accurately as possible, then driven as
they
> were intended.
> >
> > Do you think the cars have any design flaws?
> Some, looking at them in a modern world point of view. But most of them
are
> because of dated designs, which also help to make them a piece of period
> motoring which in turn is largely why I like them.
> > Do you like these design flaws?
> See above.
> >
> > Do you know what metal and structural fatigue are?
> Absolutely. That is why it is so important to check everything very
> thoroughly for this fatigue, and replace metal accurately and correctly as
> per original design specifications.
> >
> > How would you fix cowl shake and frame flex on a 33 to 48 year old
Healey?
> Frame and inner structural flex should be dealt with as per my note of
Aug.
> 11th. Same with cowl shake although careful balancing of hubs, drums, and
> wheels is of major importance too.
> Rich
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 09:18:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Construction
Richard Wright wrote and I quote:
<<"> > Rich Chrysler,
> > What experience do you have with Healeys?">>
Richard:
I almost choked on that one !! As I don't see your name in either
AHCUSA's Resource Book nor AHCA's Membership Book I would take it that
Rich's experience is/was unknown to you.
Rich IS one of the PRIMARY reasons that the is a Concours Guideline
"book" and the recognization thereof.
You also wrote and I quote:
<<"Don't let your single opinion and good fortune, encourage someone to skip
a
step, and damage a paint job!
">>
Rich Chrysler,would NEVER "encourage" someone to "skip" a step. To the
contrary, he would (and has, I am sure) "encourage" anybody to really "do it
right" and even go a bit further towards doing a Concours Level car.
Regards.........
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter-AHCA(20+ years)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL
www.justbrits.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 07:27:00 -0700
Subject: Healey boats
I saw two nice Healey boats at the Lake Tahoe Wooden Boat Concours. I hope
it is a preview of next year. I would have bought the one I found a few
years ago, if I knew they could look that nice.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 11:08:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Sources for screws/bolts
we have them available in stainless steel and look very close to oe
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 09:05:52 -0700
Subject: Do you plan to be at the Monterey Historics?
AUSTIN HEALEY OWNERS AND ENTHUSIASTS
This coming weekend, August 17th-19th, is the 28th Annual Monterey
Historics Races at
Lagua Seca Raceway. The Monterey Historics is where the who's who of
racing's past
come to play for a weekend dedicated to the Glory Days of Motor Sports.
More than 350
vintage race cars will be competing in more than a dozen groups. Dan and
Robin Klenke
will be racing there Austin Healey 100M in Group 4A on Saturday. Dan and
Robin's 100M is
very competitive, having won there group three times in past years.
Come out Saturday, August 18th, to cheer Dan and Robin to victory in 2001,
and see all
the beautiful vintage race cars. The Featured Marque this year is the
British Bentley.
The race paddock are is open and race goers have the opportunity to take an
intimate
look at the cars and rub shoulders with racings greats like Phil Hill, Dan
Gurney, Sterling
Moss, and Carroll Shelby.
GOLDEN GATE AUSTIN HEALEY CLUB MEMBERS, AND HEALEY OWNERS AND ENTHUSIASTS
PLAN TO MEET AT DAN AND ROBIN KLENKE'S PADDOCK AREA AT AROUND 9:30
A.M. SATURDAY TO SAY HI TO EACH OTHER AND CHAT WITH DAN AND ROBIN.
THERE CAR IS A BLUE 100M AND IS RACING AS #104 IN GROUP 4A.
Laguna Seca Raceway can be accessed off Highway 1 at the Reservation Road
Exit near
Seaside, or off Highway 68 between Monterey and Salinas. There will be
special signing
at both exits to direct you to parking and the races. Specific directions
are available at
www.laguna-seca.com If you have questions, please email John Soderling at
BigHealey57@msn.com, or phone 925-934-0925.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 09:15:14 -0700
Subject: Mendocino tour August 25
Event Update - Mendocino Run
August 25-26, 2001
Meet in the parking lot of the former Remark's Harbor House in Vallejo
at 9AM Saturday August 25.
Directions: Take Tennessee Avenue exit from I-80 in Vallejo (from
south, cross Carquinez Bridge). Follow Tennessee Ave to the end at the
entrance to the old Mare Island Navy Yard. Go left onto Mare Island Way
and proceed < mile to Harbor Way. Restaurant is located on the left
about < mile up. (I believe it is now called The Barge.)
Tour will proceed north through Napa and onto the Silverado Trail, then
north to Calistoga and onto Route 128. We will continue north on 128
and stop at Jimtown for lunch. The tour will then continue north on 128
into Cloverdale, across 101 and northwest on 128 with a stop at
Booneville and an Anderson Valley winery.
We will continue up 128 to Route 1; north past Mendocino and up to the
Tradewinds Lodge in Fort Bragg. We plan to arrive around 5PM. We have
arranged for dinner Saturday night at the Little River Inn south of
Mendocino. Sunday is open for touring the area and return to the Bay
Area.
If you wish to reserve a room at the Tradewinds Lodge for Saturday
night, call them at 707-964-4761 and use my name. Also if you plan to
have dinner with us, please let me know by e-mail at john4@home.com or
at
408-541-9608.
Thanks and see you on Saturday the 25th. John Trifari
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 12:11:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake Light Switch
In a message dated 8/11/01 5:10:23 PM, dickb01@earthlink.net writes:
<< Next I expect to hear that "Lucus" switches will only work with Castrol
LMA.
<G> >>
Nope, but for some reason, they seem to be more susceptible to a switch from
LMA to Dot5 silicone than other components seem to be.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Steve Gerow <sgerow at singular.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 09:37:12 -0700
Subject: Question What are the best Freeze Plugs
Hello Listers,
I just got done removing the rusty freeze (core) plugs from my 29D engine.
Would like an opinion on the best replacement type.
Thanks in advance
--
Steve Gerow
Pasadena CA
59 BN6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 10:43:17 -0600
Subject: RE: Hydraulic Cylinder Rebuild
John,
As for lubrication of the hydraulic parts, there is a specific product
called AF-100 made by, I think, EIS (will check on it). This provides more
lubricity than just brake fluid and is not hygroscopic.
I don't know if the red rubber grease is suitable for internal use. I
thought it was to protect external boots in that you pack the boot on the
inside before installing it in place.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: John W. Cope [mailto:naku@wayxcable.com]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 3:04 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Hydraulic Cylinder Rebuild
List:
>>Is there any disadvantage to rebuilding the hydraulics now even though
they
will sit for many months before being used? (The manual calls for
prelubricating the parts with brake fluid during assembly). I have some
Lucas Brake Grease (red and green versions) . Would that be a better
assembly lubricant than brake fluid?
John Cope
62 BT7 Tricarb<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 12:50:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Do you plan to be at the Monterey Historics?
In a message dated 8/13/01 9:00:25 AM, john4@home.com writes:
<< Laguna Seca Raceway can be accessed off Highway 1 at the Reservation Road
Exit near
Seaside, or off Highway 68 between Monterey and Salinas. There will be
special signing
at both exits to direct you to parking and the races. Specific directions
are available at >>
Go as early as you possibly can (if you can arrive before 8am, all the
better). Spending some quiet time wandering the paddocks early in the
morning, often with the fog drifting across the track, before the early
practice group starts its engines (and the early practice group is always the
old farts (cars, not drivers)which are fun to watch), is much preferable to
sitting in traffic waiting to buy your ticket and get in. The lines will
start to build very fast by 9am.
Second hint -- if you're going home after the races, then go out by way of
reservation road, avoiding the highway into Monterey. It will clog up hard,
and can take over an hour just to get from the racetrack gate to the route1
turnoff.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 10:50:02 -0600
Subject: RE: Front Wheel Bearings
John,
I had done a "dry" method a couple of years ago and will look to see if I
wrote anything on that subject.
Basically, the procedure is exactly the same whether you use grease or not.
Not having grease makes it that much easier to feel and measure the float,
not to mention the improved ease of pulling the hub on an off.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: John W. Cope [mailto:naku@wayxcable.com]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 3:19 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Front Wheel Bearings
List:
Recently there was a post that described a "dry" (no grease) method of
determining front wheel bearing end float. If anyone still has it, please
send it to me off list.
Thanks,
John Cope
naku@wayxcable.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 13:45:53 -0400
Subject: Re: interiors from Heritage
I too want to thank Heritage for the the incredible job of building
proper interiors for Austin Healeys. I know Coop Harris went on and on
about Heritage recently so I'll say that I totally agree with him. I
have never seen this type of quality in an "install-it-yourself" kit
before.
Tony, Duncan and Barbara are just great to deal with.
Bob Denton
1958 BN-6
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 13:56:35 EDT
Subject: Was: interiors from Heritage Now Need Vinyl
I am in the process of restoring a 1955 Hundred in Spruce green and cannot
find any supplier including Heritage that can provide proper material for the
top (hood) and tonneau and sidescreen trim. Granted, it is not a
particularly attractive green vinyl, but it does look great on a Spruce green
car.
Can anyone out there in Healeydom please help?
Richard
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 12:12:14 -0700
Subject: crap on the valves
I took off my carbs and intake manifold last weekend on the BJ8. I wanted to
locate the source of a pretty big vacuum leak such that the choke had to be
pulled most of the time for idle and decent operation. The plugs looked a
bit too clean. Anyway, there is a lot of play in the front carb throttle
shaft, so I think that is the root problem. While looking around there is a
lot of crap on the backsides of the intake valves. I attribute this to my
home made PCV system as there were some drops of oil in the intake manifold.
I have drilled two nipples on the underside of the intake manifold and then
hoses and a T to a PCV valve at the valve cover. All connected with .500
inch hose. The PCV valve is for an old Chevy standard in line 6. I suppose I
have 10000 miles on this set up and previously about 15000 using the brake
booster nipple instead of the two new ones. My carbs also used a lot of oil
so I am getting new ones ( the old ones look sort of abused inside with
scratches). Is the large amount of junk I see normal for a modern PCV
system? Should I try to get rid of it with the chemical IV drip? Should I
resize the PCV valve or nipples?
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 13:00:58 -0700
Subject: Rebuilt motor start up check list
Folks,
On August 25, 2001 I will attempt the first crank of my newly rebuilt (orig.
cam) BJ8 engine, new wiring harness, etc..... Does anyone have a check list
of do's and don'ts prior to this historic event? I have checked out the
majority of the wiring except for the misc. dash instruments which are not
entirely connected yet but want to make sure I do everything according to
the experts. Just trying to avoid inventing new swear words. Any help is
greatly appreciated.
DP
MA 1967 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 14:45:48 -0600
Subject: Re: crap on the valves
Ken,
Yep, run a couple cans of Chevon Tecroline or similar injector cleaner
through the system as per instructions or alternatively you can fill one
squirt can with Tecroline and a second with water and alternately squirt
directly into the carbs while engine is running. That will hasten the
process....
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Freese, Ken" <Ken.Freese@Aerojet.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 1:12 PM
Subject: crap on the valves
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 14:56:14 -0600
Subject: road trip
I have to (lucky me) ferry a 59 100-6 from Washington State to New Mexico
next week. I wanted to make it a sort of scenic trip and having never been
through Montana or Wyoming, my plan was to go east to Bozeman then south to
Jackson then down to Grand Junction, CO. I was told that I really can't see
any of Yellowstone unless I actually go into the park proper and it will be
an absolute mob scene this time of year. The other choice is to go through
Utah and go through Cedar City/Capital Reef area. I was told that is one of
the most fabulous drives in the entire country.
Anyone in those parts of the country care to comment on either of these
routes or perhaps suggest a better one.
Please reply directly, unless we all need to know of a really good Healey
road(s).
Thanks!!
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Howard Young <hoyo at bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 17:43:07 -0500
Subject: Sand,hubcaps,Jule frames
HEY,HEY,Hey.......
my Mom was threatening to fill Agnes with dirt once and make her a 100
rose planter...........anybody have 4 hubcaps for sale for disc wheels?
anyone know how much a Jule frame for a BN2 is? Anyone know Phillip
Whitaker's new e-mail address?"Does anybody REALLY know what time it is? Does
anybody really care?" TIA, HoYo
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard Wright" <duntov1 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 18:36:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Healey Construction
Thank You Larry,
Richard Wright
----- Original Message -----
From: LarryRPH@aol.com
To: duntov1@home.com
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: Healey Construction
As one of the original listers warning about having the wheels on the ground
and egine/trans in when
aligning the doors, I was happy to see your note. There were some
conflicting opinions , mostly by people whowere blinded by textbook physics
and trivialized the problem. I wish I were doing it again as I did exactly
as you predicted- ruined a 3,000 dollar paint job!
Larry Wysocki
BN 6
BJ 7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Kollar" <wkollar at superior.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 19:50:46 -0400
Subject: ?? Cape Cod, MA Healey Meet
Hello,
Does anyone know if there is a Healey meet on Cape Cod, MA this year? I seem to
recall that one is held there on or about Sept each year.
____________________________________________________________
Ever Wonder ?
__ bill kollar
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Terry Disz" <tdisz at starband.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 20:24:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil and Temperature Gauge
Aieee, say it ain't so - my BT7 needs one with a white face also. If there
are two working guages out there at a reasonable price, I would also be
interested.
I have followed everyone's advice about my temperature guage and it
certainly seems that the bulb is kaput. It has slowly been registering lower
temperatures for two weeks and now doesn't register at all. Radiator is
fine, thermostat fine, thanks to everyone for their advice on
troubleshooting this.
Does this mean there may now be mercury in the coolant? Should I worry?
Thanks again,
Terry
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom Blaskovics" <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2001 7:03 PM
Subject: Oil and Temperature Gauge
>
>
> Hi Listers,
> I am looking for an oil and temperature gauge for
> my BJ7. The one from MOSS has a black face and
> that is not what I want. If you have one that is in reasonable
> shape and a reasonable price please contact me.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Back on the Road......finally
> MB 450 SL
> Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 21:25:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Do you plan to be at the Monterey Historics?
In a message dated 8/13/2001 9:53:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Editorgary@aol.com writes:
>
> Go as early as you possibly can (if you can arrive before 8am, all the
> better). Spending some quiet time wandering the paddocks early in the
> morning, often with the fog drifting across the track, before the early
> practice group starts its engines (and the early practice group is always
> the
> old farts (cars, not drivers)which are fun to watch), is much preferable to
> sitting in traffic waiting to buy your ticket and get in. The lines will
> start to build very fast by 9am.
>
>
Gary,
Excellent advice! Last year Erika the Red and I left Walnut Creek at 6:00
a.m. and arrived at Laguna Seca by 7:30. At that hour everything moved
smoothly. Plan to do the same thing Saturday.
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 11:44:46 +1000
Subject: RE: Oil and Temperature Gauge
G'day
The capillary tube from the sender bulb is full of ether and not mercury.
Sounds as if the ether has disappeared into the ether, so to speak.
I don't know about where you are but any half decent instrument repair shop
should be able to fix it and keep the ether in.
It's sort of like the Smith's version of smoke in the wiring harness. Once
you let it out the gauge ceases to function.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Disz [mailto:tdisz@starband.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 11:25 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Oil and Temperature Gauge
Aieee, say it ain't so - my BT7 needs one with a white face also. If there
are two working guages out there at a reasonable price, I would also be
interested.
I have followed everyone's advice about my temperature guage and it
certainly seems that the bulb is kaput. It has slowly been registering lower
temperatures for two weeks and now doesn't register at all. Radiator is
fine, thermostat fine, thanks to everyone for their advice on
troubleshooting this.
Does this mean there may now be mercury in the coolant? Should I worry?
Thanks again,
Terry
62 BT7
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom Blaskovics" <u2347@wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2001 7:03 PM
Subject: Oil and Temperature Gauge
>
>
> Hi Listers,
> I am looking for an oil and temperature gauge for
> my BJ7. The one from MOSS has a black face and
> that is not what I want. If you have one that is in reasonable
> shape and a reasonable price please contact me.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
> ACHA, ACHUSA
> BJ7 Registry
> HBJ7L/22380
> Back on the Road......finally
> MB 450 SL
> Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 21:09:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil and Temperature Gauge
<<Thanks again,>>
Terry:
Take the thing out and send to Mo-Ma in Albq.,NM.
It will come back as NEW!!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 20:51:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: English but no LBC content
Steve -
They're probably worth more than your BN7!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> Just trying to capture some wisdom from the group..
> Does anybody have any
> idea what a complete set of Un-opened (still in the
> plastic wrapper) mint
> condition Beatle's albums would be worth?? Just
> curious..
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 23:57:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil and Temperature Gauge
New faces are available so when the instrument is rebuilt you can install a
correct gaugeface for which ever instrument you need.
The faces are available as a new silk screened face or a decal they both are
very good quality
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 23:37:10 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: vibration damper
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 23:02:54 -0700
From: ryoung@oro.net (Rich Young)
Subject: vibration damper
Hello listers -
My 3000 Mk1 recently has developed a slightly loose crankshaft vibration
damper causing a bit of noise at idle sounding somewhat like a bad water
pump bearing. In order to inspect the assembly I wonder if the damper can
be removed while the engine remains in the car. Can anyone enlighten me on
this project?
Rich Young
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 05:54:00 -0400
Subject: Re: interiors from Heritage
http://www.heritagetrim.com
Bob Denton
Ron Rader wrote:
> any body have a web page?
> ron
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 09:15:49 EDT
Subject: Watkin's Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
I can't figure out what happens and when it occurs at the Glen weekend. If
the races take place thru the town what goes on at the Speedway? Does anyone
know and is anyone planning to attend? I've been told it is a great event.
Best--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 09:48:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Overdrive pumps
Well the jury is back and our suspicions were correct.
The wear on the pin and bush of the overdrive pump roller were sufficient to
stop
the overdrive working reliably.
Replacing the pump assembly with new one increased the pressure from around 200
to over 350 and the overdrive works well.
I suspect that the cam is also worn in this unit and further reducing the
effective pump stroke as the operating pressure should be 420 - 440 psi.
Thanks to all for replys.
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Don Lambert <dlambert at iopener.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 11:46:52 -0400
Subject: Lancaster PA
Is there something going on with healeys this week (August 12 thru 19) in
Lancaster PA or thereabouts? Would appreciate any details.
Don dlambert@iopener.net Thanks
67 Sprite. 54 - 100 58 BN 6
,
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CAWS52803 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 12:14:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Lancaster PA
The STC puts on a National caliber meet each year. Below is the site to get
more information.
Wish I could get away to be there with y'all.
Rudy Streng
Lenoir, NC
http://www.austin-healey-stc.org/encountup.htm
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 15:30:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Watkin's Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
Hi, Michael -
The Zippo vintage car races are held on the race course. I don't think any
races are held through the town anymore. I've been going to the Zippo
vintage races since the Team Healey Challenge in 1990, and it's a great
weekend in a beautiful place. The qualifying and practice races begin on
Friday and the various class races and events are held through Sunday
afternoon. I'll be there again this year with my trusty BJ8. If you enter
your car in the antique car show, they'll let you do a couple laps of the
track. Bring your earplugs and binoculars!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 9:15 AM
Subject: Watkin's Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
>
> I can't figure out what happens and when it occurs at the Glen weekend.
If
> the races take place thru the town what goes on at the Speedway? Does
anyone
> know and is anyone planning to attend? I've been told it is a great event.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 14:29:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Watkin's Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
I think I read that there'll be a racers' *tour* of the old street course,
I believe on Friday.
I'll be there, just confirmed my ticket order this morning. Bought the full
weekend pass, but not sure which days I'll actually attend, depends on how
much fun I'm having at Mom's, down the road in Sayre, PA.
Rick
At 03:30 PM 8/14/2001, Steve Byers wrote:
>Hi, Michael -
>The Zippo vintage car races are held on the race course. I don't think any
>races are held through the town anymore. I've been going to the Zippo
>vintage races since the Team Healey Challenge in 1990, and it's a great
>weekend in a beautiful place. The qualifying and practice races begin on
>Friday and the various class races and events are held through Sunday
>afternoon. I'll be there again this year with my trusty BJ8. If you enter
>your car in the antique car show, they'll let you do a couple laps of the
>track. Bring your earplugs and binoculars!
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC USA
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
>To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 9:15 AM
>Subject: Watkin's Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
>
> > I can't figure out what happens and when it occurs at the Glen weekend.
> >If the races take place thru the town what goes on at the Speedway? Does
> >anyone know and is anyone planning to attend? I've been told it is a
> great event.
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 18:13:50 -0400
Subject: Healeys racing at Lime Rock
While we're on the subject of vintage racing in the Northeast, there will be
at least three Austin-Healeys racing at the Vintage Festival at Lime Rock,
8/31 through 9/3. I'll be racing the Healey blue Hundred, #102. Stop by in
the paddock and say hi.
Jim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Thomas Mulligan" <tpmul at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 19:21:50 -0400
Subject: Garage Floors
Anyone have any experience with, or knowledge of:
Kross Coatings, Inc.
Epoxy Floor Coatings?
Thanks:
Tom
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rick Snover <rsnover at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 16:44:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys racing at Lime Rock
At 06:13 PM 8/14/2001, AH102 wrote:
>While we're on the subject of vintage racing in the Northeast, there will be
>at least three Austin-Healeys racing at the Vintage Festival at Lime Rock,
>8/31 through 9/3. I'll be racing the Healey blue Hundred, #102. Stop by in
>the paddock and say hi.
Will do.
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Schauss" <schauss at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 20:12:33 -0400
Subject: RE: Watkin's Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
I've been giving it some thought. If you get any definitive information,
post it to the list.
Peter Schauss
Long Island, NY
1980 MGB
1963 BJ7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 9:16 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Watkin's Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
I can't figure out what happens and when it occurs at the Glen weekend. If
the races take place thru the town what goes on at the Speedway? Does
anyone
know and is anyone planning to attend? I've been told it is a great event.
Best--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 20:19:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Watkins Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
Some information about the Sep 7 - 9 weekend can be found at
http://www.theglen.com
Go to the EVENT/TICKETS button and scroll down.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Schauss" <schauss@worldnet.att.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 8:12 PM
Subject: RE: Watkin's Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
>
> I've been giving it some thought. If you get any definitive information,
> post it to the list.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 9:16 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Watkin's Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
>
>
>
> I can't figure out what happens and when it occurs at the Glen weekend.
If
> the races take place thru the town what goes on at the Speedway? Does
> anyone
> know and is anyone planning to attend? I've been told it is a great event.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Blair L. Harber" <blharber at vaxxine.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 20:35:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Watkin's Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
Peter;
The events are posted on the Watkins Glen Grand Prix Festival
website.........
http://www.watkinsglen.com/gpfest/
I'll be there with AHX-14 on the Friday the 7th. Hope to see you there.
Regards, Blair Harber
Peter Schauss wrote:
> I've been giving it some thought. If you get any definitive information,
> post it to the list.
>
> Peter Schauss
> Long Island, NY
> 1980 MGB
> 1963 BJ7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-healeys@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-healeys@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Awgertoo@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 9:16 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Watkin's Glenm weekend 9/7-9/9
>
> I can't figure out what happens and when it occurs at the Glen weekend. If
> the races take place thru the town what goes on at the Speedway? Does
> anyone
> know and is anyone planning to attend? I've been told it is a great event.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 17:45:17 -0700
Subject: Another Overdrive Puzzle
Folks-
Here's another overdrive mystery for you....
After full overhaul, my overdrive works just fine, except-
When thoroughly warmed up, the unit will suddenly cut out, if the headlamps have
been on for a while. If I drive a few minutes, then re-engage, it'll be fine
for a
few minutes before repeating. I can also induce the problem by, say, turning
on the
heater blower with lights on.
It seems clearly to be related to electrical system load.
The thing will run all day with no lights or other big current draws.
The battery is fresh, and the dynamo & charging system are not at fault. The
overdrive installation is completely stock, with new OD harness.
Poor contacts in the relay? Throttle switch? Weak solenoid?
Any thoughts?
Fred Meyer
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 21:15:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Garage Floors
Tom,
I don't have experience with Kross Coatings. However, Hilti makes a very good
one. We used it for industrial purposes and it lasted very well. I don't know
if it is available for home use, but you can ask them.
Bob Humphreys
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 19:31:30 -0700
Subject: Pertronix Ignition
Hello all-
I've just installed a Pertronix electronic ignition kit in my BN4. Runs fine,
everything seems good, except- now the angle of the distributor, with respect
to the engine, is rotated approximately 60 degrees anticlockwise, from the angle
it was at with the stock points setup. In other words, the vacuum advance pipe
connection now points to approx. the 8 o'clock position, is close to the chassis
frame, and far far from the pipe. I know this is wrong, from experience, and
many photos, showing the distributor facing roughly towards the front of the
motor.
I did not disturb the distributor drive below the clamp- the tach drive housing
was not touched, nor did I disturb the points cam, relative to the drive end.
The only thing I can figure is that the Pertronix pickup has moved relative to
the distributor housing. The thing is roughly on the opposite side of where the
points lived before (maybe rotated 60 degrees, relative to the points?).
Has anyone else seen this? Can I reinstall the bottom distributor shaft a tooth
or two off, to bring the distributor back where it should be?
Also- pulley timing marks!! There are three, one big one in the middle. Which
is TDC, and what angle are the others? Using a strobe, what timing should I set
to? Book says 6 deg. BTDC, static. (This car has the later cyl head with HD6
carbs).
All suggestions appreciated.
Fred Meyer
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 22:10:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Pertronix Ignition
Fred -
> now the angle of the
> distributor, with respect
> to the engine, is rotated approximately 60 degrees
> anticlockwise, from the angle
> it was at with the stock points setup.
Fred - really the best solution here is to reset the
distributor gear 1 to 2 teeth clockwise to get it back
to a more normal position. The pertronix kits do vary
a bit from kit to kit - some will put the timing
position off further than others - I've had two kits
on my BJ8, the first one set off about 20 degrees from
original position, the new one is spot on. If the kit
bothers you that much, you can send it back to
pertronix (or your supplier) and ask for a new one,
but then you'll just have to set it all up again.
> Also- pulley timing marks!! There are three, one
> big one in the middle. Which
> is TDC, and what angle are the others?
There should only be one official timing mark in the
middle of the pulley (it's a notch in the crank
pulley). There should only be one pointer mounted on
the front of the timing chain cover (unless BN4s are
different then other 6cyls ... but I don't think they
are - if so, the big one in the middle is TDC). The
pointer, when pointing at the notch on the pulley,
should be TDC. The best way to time it (very
effective w/ pertronix ignition) is to go get one of
the newer style timing lights with the timing wheel on
the light gun (about $40 at Kragen/Checker). When you
set the gun's timing wheel to 6 degrees TDC, then the
pointer and the notch in the pulley should line up
when the timing is set right.
I'm not positive w/ the BN6, but isn't 6BTDC a static
timing measure? This means if you are using
stroboscopic timing, you should add about 3 degrees to
the advance at idle (due to vacuum advance) or 9BTDC.
I could be wrong here, but you should confirm if the
6BTDC figure is static or stroboscopic at idle.
By the way, count yourself lucky. My BN1 has no
bloody timing marks!
Hope that helps,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 10:09:49 -0500
Subject: RE: Pertronix Ignition
Hi Fred, I don't know how pure you want to be about the dist position. Just
for your information, here's what I did. I relocated the dist drive shaft a
few teeth off the "normal" stock position so I could point my vac advance
port straight toward the front of the engine. I made a new oil filter
arrangement using stock AH3000 and Sprite parts and there is an oil cooler
hookup sandwiched against the crankcase at the filter location, so I needed
to rotate the dist body to accommodate all this. To do this, however, you
must use a top exit dist cap ala TR6 or your plug cables would be
excessively long. By the way, I use the Pertronix ignition and you can
still time the engine in the usual way. All this works flawlessly and it
really unclutters the right side of the engine compartment. There are a lot
more details here, so please feel free to contact me if you're interested in
chatting about it.
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
-----Original Message-----
From: kerowako [mailto:kerowako@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 9:32 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Pertronix Ignition
Hello all-
I've just installed a Pertronix electronic ignition kit in my BN4. Runs
fine,
everything seems good, except- now the angle of the distributor, with
respect
to the engine, is rotated approximately 60 degrees anticlockwise, from the
angle
it was at with the stock points setup. In other words, the vacuum advance
pipe
connection now points to approx. the 8 o'clock position, is close to the
chassis
frame, and far far from the pipe. I know this is wrong, from experience,
and
many photos, showing the distributor facing roughly towards the front of the
motor.
I did not disturb the distributor drive below the clamp- the tach drive
housing
was not touched, nor did I disturb the points cam, relative to the drive
end.
The only thing I can figure is that the Pertronix pickup has moved relative
to
the distributor housing. The thing is roughly on the opposite side of where
the
points lived before (maybe rotated 60 degrees, relative to the points?).
Has anyone else seen this? Can I reinstall the bottom distributor shaft a
tooth
or two off, to bring the distributor back where it should be?
Also- pulley timing marks!! There are three, one big one in the middle.
Which
is TDC, and what angle are the others? Using a strobe, what timing should I
set
to? Book says 6 deg. BTDC, static. (This car has the later cyl head with
HD6
carbs).
All suggestions appreciated.
Fred Meyer
'58 BN4
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 16:45:04 -0400
Subject: Purchase of the 100
I went back for a second look at the 100 BN2. I found some rust underneath
that I couldn't see before but I also found something else I had not seen
before. The grill emblem had a small "M" on the lightning flash and the
bonnet, which was not on the car, had a bunch of louvers on it. So I guess
it's a definite maybe that it is a real 100. Anyway, I bought it and hope
to bring it home this weekend.
In the meantime, I have been on the phone ordering catalogs and trying to
order books but a lot of them listed by Amazon are out of print.
One of the conditions of getting approval from my wife for this caper, was
that she gets to pick out the color. This she has already done as a result
of seeing a certain lovely 100 at the Hildene Show in Manchester VT in
June. Where do I find a paint code number for spruce green?
I'll be back with more dumb questions as soon as I get it home and start
pulling it apart.
Gene
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:15:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Purchase of the 100
ejfaust@worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Where do I find a paint code number for spruce green? >>
Hi Gene,
I had a local company color match my original paint! I have the body panals
back from the painter and chassis comes back tomorrow! I did it in Chromo
one single stage and it looks spectacular!!!! My suggestion, avoid clear
coat. Donald Pikovniks book lists it as Spruce Green GN.13: ICI 2587.
But my paint supplier has the match formulae and would be happy to provide
you with the paint. Let me know if you want his name and number.
Richard
Denver, Colorado
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Silas Elash <selash at homeworld.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 16:42:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: heater "box" assembly for BJ7
My BJ7 came without any heater parts. They must have been
stripped out long ago. Will the heater "box" assembly from a BJ8
fit my BJ7? I think they are the same, but need the wisdom of
the list! Don't want to buy something that does not fit.
Thanks!!!
----------------------------------------------------
Silas Elash
silas.elash@eng.sun.com phone: 408-774-8720
Sun Microsystems
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 20:21:03 -0500
Subject: Re: heater "box" assembly for BJ7
hi silas-
they were the same 57-67.
jerry
Silas Elash wrote:
>
>
> My BJ7 came without any heater parts. They must have been
> stripped out long ago. Will the heater "box" assembly from a BJ8
> fit my BJ7? I think they are the same, but need the wisdom of
> the list! Don't want to buy something that does not fit.
>
> Thanks!!!
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Silas Elash
> silas.elash@eng.sun.com phone: 408-774-8720
> Sun Microsystems
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 18:23:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: heater "box" assembly for BJ7
Silas -
A heater box from any 100-6 or 3000 (healey from late
'56 to '68) will fit - they're all the same. So
complicated answer to you simple question - the BJ8
heater is the same.
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> My BJ7 came without any heater parts. They must
> have been
> stripped out long ago. Will the heater "box"
> assembly from a BJ8
> fit my BJ7?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:44:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil and Temperature Gauge
Terry,
Actually the thermometer bulb is filled with ether (ethyl I think), so you don't
need to worry about declaring a hazardous waste emergency (at least until the
EPA gets around to declaring ether to be a hazardous waste). There are several
places around the country that can repair these gauges and supply the proper
faces. The one I deal with (because they are local) is MOMA in Albuquerque.
Phone 505 766-6661. Their service is good and their prices are fair.
Good luck.
Bill Lawrence
Terry Disz wrote:
> Aieee, say it ain't so - my BT7 needs one with a white face also. If there
> are two working guages out there at a reasonable price, I would also be
> interested.
>
> I have followed everyone's advice about my temperature guage and it
> certainly seems that the bulb is kaput. It has slowly been registering lower
> temperatures for two weeks and now doesn't register at all. Radiator is
> fine, thermostat fine, thanks to everyone for their advice on
> troubleshooting this.
>
> Does this mean there may now be mercury in the coolant? Should I worry?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Terry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 23:10:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Purchase of the 100
Gene:
If I found a real 100M I would re paint it the color it was when it left the
factory.
Ron Rader
eugene faust wrote:
> I went back for a second look at the 100 BN2. I found some rust underneath
> that I couldn't see before but I also found something else I had not seen
> before. The grill emblem had a small "M" on the lightning flash and the
> bonnet, which was not on the car, had a bunch of louvers on it.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Robert Dobrowski <rsdslp at juno.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 18:11:34 -0700
Subject: Re: Pertronix Ignition
A similar discussion recently occured on the Sunbeam Alpine list.
I haven't used the Pertronix myself so I have no personnal knowledge but
I surmised from all of the writings that Pertronix redesigned some of
their units and in the process changed the clocking of the installation.
The real problem apparently is not that the distributor ends up clocked
slightly abnormally but that the rotor is not pointed at the proper spark
plug wire contact inside of the cap. Instead it ends up pointed somewhere
between two plug wires with it hopefully being enough closer to the
proper one to fire correctly. The Alpine guys made it sound like a very
bad situation.
Just thought you might be interested.
[This message delayed, as it needed manual intervention by the list
administrator. Yet another person who has their mailer set to just
automatically include everything in the reply. mjb.]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 05:27:28 -0400
Subject: 2001 European Odyssey
Just got back from the 45 day European Odyssey with the BJ8. Thought you
might be interested in how she ran fort those 4850 miles---through The
Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy,
Monico, and France.
A little background. I had the engine rebuilt plus a number of other new
changes. For all those miles, over great roads as well as some long gravel
ones in the mountains, over the high pass (Augburg--sp) in Austria, the
Alps, and in 100 degree temp in Italy she never failed! The only little
glitch was when, after 1 hour of stop and go traffic coming out of Munich,
she loaded up a little and started skipping a little. After reaching the
autobahn and going up to 90 for a while, that cleared right up.
Several times during the trip I checked the tightness of the bolts on the
front shocks. I found one of the bolts to be loose. When I tried to
tighten it, I found it to be stripped. It would not back out. Thinking
that the nut had broked loose, I took it to a garage in Graz, Austria and
they managed to get the bolt out. The nut was good, so a little drill and
tap with a new bolt took care of that.
One of our group with a beautiful golden 67 was hit in the rear----not too
much damage. Another had electrical--what else--problems and was away from
the tour for 4 or 5 days. Several had starter and battery
problems---brought on we feel by the dock workers not jumping the cars
correctly.
All in all, it was truly a great trip and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
The cars are still in Belgium to be shipped Sat. One more little exposure
before getting it back.
Donald Healey would be proud!!
Tom
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 04:12:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Distributors - 100M conversions for BN1
I'd like to understand a few things -
When 100M kits were sold from the factory - did they
supply an entirely new distributor or did it come with
a spring, weight & vacuum advance kit?
Also, Moss sells a 100M distributor for early BN1s
(spec 40422). My car has Lucas spec 40320 in it - I
assume these both take the same points? So, to be
more clear - if you bought a kit from the factory for
your BN1, would you get the spec 40422 distributor,
(or possibly later spec 40520), or would the factory
just send you wieghts and springs & vacuum advance for
the standard 100 spec 40320?
Lastly - anyone have a suggestion as to how I can get
my 40320 uprated to 40422 w/o spending a big chunk of
cash, and or any suggestions who might carry an new
old stock 40422? response off list are fine, thanks.
Thanks in advance & best to all -
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 05:46:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Vegemite Redux (no LBC content)
Hi Team,
Many of you may recall the brief but poignant Vegemite Thread of some months
ago. List regular Pat Quinn of Australia and I quickly "took it outside"
(i.e., off list) and to make a long story short, Pat agreed to send me a
sample of this uniquely Australian delicacy composed of concentrated yeast
extract. Well, a 115-gram jar arrived a few days ago, and I thought I'd
share the results with the rest of you as I take this opportunity to
publicly thank Pat for the gift.
Upon opening the jar the first thing that hits you is the aroma. It is
strong and, to a neophyte such as myself, mildly offensive. It has the
appearance of chocolate, but the smell quickly dispels that notion.
I spread a thin coat on a piece of toast -- apparently the correct and
traditional way to enjoy Vegemite -- and sampled it. Now, I have lived in
many places in the world where the cuisine is, shall we say,
non-traditional. I've sampled many things that one would not normally even
think of eating, except perhaps in a survival situation, and so I may have a
bit broader perspective on the subject of food than many. My assessment of
Vegemite is that it's not really that bad. I can understand how some would
grow accustomed and even attached to it. You might say that it's an
acquired taste, but so are lots of things, including life with old British
cars.
While most of us Norte Americanos are used to sweet-tasting things on our
toast -- sweet butter, jams, marmalades, etc. -- Vegemite is decidedly
savory and so it's what you might call a non-traditional toast experience
for us Yankees. But not a bad one. Vegemite is also a terrific source of
the vitamin B components of thiamin, riboflavin, niacin and folate.
For those of you who require additional information I'd recommend:
www.vegemite.com.au
Thanks again, Pat. The label on the jar you sent says "Best before 13 Feb
02," and we'll see if it lasts that long. I may be ready for a resupply
about the time of Healey International 2002! Let's do breakfast.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:05:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Purchase of the 100
In a message dated 8/16/01 2:10:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rader@interworld.net writes:
<< If I found a real 100M >>
"A louvered hood and an "M" emblem doth not an M make...."
Michael Oritt, BN1 LeMans (ducking)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:19:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Purchase of the 100
YES, YES, YES!!!! They're too rare and valuable to screw up!
Bob
>
>Gene:
>If I found a real 100M I would re paint it the color it was when it left
the
>factory.
>Ron Rader
>
>eugene faust wrote:
>
>> I went back for a second look at the 100 BN2. I found some rust
underneath
>> that I couldn't see before but I also found something else I had not seen
>> before. The grill emblem had a small "M" on the lightning flash and the
>> bonnet, which was not on the car, had a bunch of louvers on it.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 11:09:24 EDT
Subject: Re: heater "box" assembly for BJ7
We have a couple of used heater assys
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:11:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Vegemite Redux (no LBC content)
At 5:46 AM -0700 8/16/01, Reid Trummel wrote:
>www.vegemite.com.au
>
>Thanks again, Pat. The label on the jar you sent says "Best before 13 Feb
>02," and we'll see if it lasts that long. I may be ready for a resupply
>about the time of Healey International 2002! Let's do breakfast.
Hey there,
As an Aussie living in the US .. I was amazed that my local (Los
Altos California) supermarket actually stocks and sells
Vegemite!!!!!!! Woohoo.
.. and yes it does last that long and then some .. although we
Aussies never let it !
Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 13:38:32 -0500
Subject: Needing a favor
Hi Listers, a non-Healey/Spridget friend of mine is deeply into restoration
of a 1950 Jag Mk. V drop head coupe. He would love to be on a E-List like
ours with other Jag people. Does anyone know of such a list?? Please help
if you can and thanks for your trouble.
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 14:18:12 -0500
Subject: RE: Needing a favor
Yep, there is another list, as well as a web site... It's
http://www.jag-lovers.org/ I used to belong to it when I was restoring an
XK120 for a friend... Lots of good information, but be forewarned.. there
are some "cat" fights.. That's why I left.
Steve
61BN7
>Hi Listers, a non-Healey/Spridget friend of mine is deeply into restoration
>of a 1950 Jag Mk. V drop head coupe. He would love to be on a E-List like
>ours with other Jag people. Does anyone know of such a list?? Please help
>if you can and thanks for your trouble.
>Jack Brashear
>Little Rock, Arkansas
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 13:55:46 -0600
Subject: car for sale
Listers,
A customer would like to sell his uncompleted 1957 100-6 ( I think )
Healey.
It appears to be a Longbridge car. Crease in bonnet and left side bonnet
prop.
Car was converted to a V8 many years ago.
I recently converted back to a 2 port engine. Most mechanical work
completed. Still needs: front wheel cylinders, sway bar, exhaust hangers,
bumpers and front valence. All of the interior needs to be finished. Needs a
top and side curtains, trunk finishing kit. Mostly just odds and ends will
make into a decent driver. Paint was done 6-8 years ago, but is in
reasonable condition. Colorado red. I'll try to post some pictures within
the next week or 10 days.
Car is in Albuq. No rust-anymore.
Please contact Bob McNeill at 505-998-7992 for pricing questions. Not
me-thanks.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 13:02:37 -0700
Subject: Fw: Bad nomination
----- Original Message -----
From: "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
To: "Ralph Comito" <rcomito@uia.net>; "PJeanne" <pjeanne@earthlink.net>;
"Paul Turner" <retrdpet@inreach.com>; "jim albeck" <bjate@pacbell.net>;
"Hank&Kris" <thehallmarks@earthlink.net>; "carol goldsworth"
<WhoCares56@aol.com>; "Coe Coleman" <ccoleman@nettally.com>; "Bill Barnett"
<bn1@pacbell.net>; "Art Hill" <WAHILL@aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 1:00 PM
Subject: Fw: Bad nomination
>
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 10:19 AM
> Subject: Bad nomination
>
>
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:45 PM
> Subject: Remember A traitor honored-A Travesty
> Lest we forget what she did!!!!
>
> To All Americans
>
> Subject: Jane Fonda: A traitor honored.
>
>
> Be assured that anyone who proudly served their
> country in the military during the Vietnam Era
> will never forget her actions. Jane Fonda is
> being Honored as one of the "100 Women of the Century."
>
> Unfortunately many have forgotten, and still
> countless others have never known, how Ms. Fonda
> betrayed not only the idea of our country but
> specific men who served and sacrificed during Vietnam.
>
> Part of my conviction comes from personal exposure
> to those who suffered her attentions.
>
> The first part of this is from an F-4E pilot. The
> pilot's name is Jerry Driscoll, a River Rat. In
> 1978, the former Commandant of the USAF Survival
> School was a POW in Ho Lo Prison - the "Hanoi
> Hilton." Dragged from a stinking cesspool of a
> cell, cleaned, fed, and dressed in clean PJs, he
> was ordered to describe for a visiting American
> "Peace Activist" the "lenient and humane
> treatment" he'd received. He spat at Ms. Fonda,
> was clubbed, and dragged away. During the
> subsequent beating, he fell forward upon the camp
> commandant's feet, which sent the officer
> berserk.
>
> In '78, the AF Col. still suffered from
> double vision (which permanently ended his flying
> days) from the Vietnamese Col.'s frenzi and
> application of a wooden baton.
>
> From 1983-85, Col. Larry Carrigan was in the
> 47FW/DO (F-4Es). He spent 6 years in the
> "Hilton" - the first three of which he was
> "missing in action". His wife lived on faith
> that he was still alive. His group also got the
> cleaned/fed/clothed routine in preparation for a
> peace delegation" visit. They, however, had time
> and devised a plan to get word to the world that
> they still survived. Each man secreted a tiny
> piece of paper, with his SSN on it, in the palm of
> his hand.
>
> When paraded before Ms. Fonda and a cameraman, she
> shook each man's hand and asking little snippets
> like: "Aren't you sorry you bombed babies?" and
> "Are you grateful for the humane treatment from
> your benevolent captors?" Believing this HAD to
> be an act, they each palmed her their sliver of
> paper. She took them all without missing a beat.
> At the end of the line and once the camera
> stopped rolling, to the shocked disbelief of the
> POWs, she turned to the officer in charge ... and
> handed him the little pile of papers. Three men
> died from the subsequent beatings. Col. Carrigan
> was almost number four but he survived, which is
> the only reason we know about her actions that day.
>
> I was a civilian economic development advisor in
> Vietnam, and was captured by the North Vietnamese
> communists in South Vietnam in 1968, and held for
> over 5 years. I spent 27 months in solitary
> confinement, one year in a cage in Cambodia, and
> one year in a black box" in Hanoi.
>
> My North Vietnamese captors deliberately poisoned
> and murdered a female missionary, a nurse in a
> leprosarium in Ban me Thuot, South Vietnam. I
> buried her in the jungle near the Cambodian
> border. At one time, I weighed approximately 90
> lbs. (My normal weight is 170 lbs.)
>
> We were Jane Fonda's "war criminals." When Jane
> Fonda was in Hanoi, I was asked by the camp
> communist political officer if I would be willing
> to meet with Jane Fonda. I said yes, for I would
> like to tell her about the real treatment we POWs
> were receiving. It was far different from the
> treatment purported by the North Vietnamese, and
> parroted by Jane Fonda, as "humane and lenient."
>
> Because of this, I spent three days on a rocky
> floor on my knees with outstretched arms with a
> large amount of steel placed on my hands, and
> beaten with a bamboo cane till my arms dipped.
>
> After I was released, I had the opportunity to
> meet with Jane Fonda for a couple of hours. I
> asked her if she would be willing to debate me on
> TV. She did not answer me.
>
> This does not exemplify someone who should be
> honored as part of "100 Years of Great Women."
>
> Lest we forget. "100 years of great women"
> should never include a traitor whose hands are
> covered with the blood of so many patriots. There
> are few things I have strong visceral reactions
> to, but Hanoi Jane's participation in blatant
> treason, is one of them. Please take the time to
> forward to as many people as you possibly can. It
> will eventually end up on her computer and she
> needs to know that we will never forget.
>
> Charles (Skip) Klingman
> Asst. Professor of Music
> Southwestern Oklahoma State
> University Weatherford, OK 73096
>
> (580)774-3219 FAX: (580) 774-3795
>
> If having Jane Fonda named one of the woman of the
> century bothers you as much as it does me, then
> mail this to everyone on your list. This saddens
> me no end. I cannot believe that some group will
> "honor" this traitor. If you feel strongly about
> this, pass this on to your friends, if not I
> respect your choice and am content with it. That
> is true freedom, something this traitor enjoys
> because of those she betrayed.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Norman Cay <normcay at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 13:20:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Needing a favor
Brashear, Jack, N wrote:
> Hi Listers, a non-Healey/Spridget friend of mine is deeply into restoration
> of a 1950 Jag Mk. V drop head coupe. He would love to be on a E-List like
> ours with other Jag people. Does anyone know of such a list?? Please help
> if you can and thanks for your trouble.
Jack, I think I have 2 good fuel tanks with sender units I would be more than
willing to donate if he pays freight. Maybe more stuff, I'll look through my
shed.
Norm Cay - 53 BN1, 56 BN2, 64 MKII Jag, 71 TR6 (650)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:56:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Bad nomination
Even more important, she never owned a Healey!
Fred Criswell
On Thu, 16 Aug 2001 13:02:37 -0700 KIRK KVAM <klkvam@prodigy.net> wrote:
----- Original Message -----
From: "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
>
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 10:19 AM
> Subject: Bad nomination
>
> Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 8:45 PM
> Subject: Remember A traitor honored-A Travesty
> Lest we forget what she did!!!!
>
> To All Americans
>
> Subject: Jane Fonda: A traitor honored.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:21:00 +1000
Subject: Vegemite Redux (Still no LBC content - tough)
G'day Reid
Good to hear that the Vegemite arrived safely. It's always a worry sending
glass across the water.
Yes Vegemite is definitely an Australian staple even if it's now owned by
Kraft. However if I may provide a tip for further enjoyment of the product.
Make sure the toast is hot (cold toast and Vegemite in yuk) apply a generous
amount of real butter (anything else is equally yuk) followed by a thin
coating of the delicious Vegemite. Yes it all mixes together and should be
eaten quickly. If you insist you can hold your nose while you are enjoying
it.
Now that's great for the morning but for the evening, well melted cheese and
Vegemite is yum as well. What you do is to try and remember how you made
your toast in the morning, apply the real butter, then the Vegemite followed
by the cheese. Real cheese is far better than processed slices. Pop it under
the griller and wait for it to melt and enjoy immediately. Robert Carrier
eat your heart out.
Now in case your wondering about the middle of the day we have another
little Australian treat called Vita Weet cracker biscuits (yes we call them
biscuits in this country. Made by Arnotts which I think is owned by
Campbells). Now I just happen to have some with me right now. They are 3.25
inches long, 1.73 inches wide and .125 inches thick. Apply a generous amount
of real butter and a skim of Vegemite to a single biscuit and cover with a
second one. I have four of these delicious morsels and I'm waiting for
morning smoko. (Morning tea or coffee to you guys) Not only are they
delicious but the Vita Weets have little holes through them, so you can
squeeze them together and see all the butter/Vegemite worms come through the
holes. Yum and what a delight. (I've got just on an hour to smoko and can't
wait.)
Vegemite's not bad on sandwiches too especially if the bread is still warm
from the bread maker. Plus it's used for flavouring stews, casseroles and so
on. Butter and Vegemite is not bad on hot crumpets either and no that's not
what a few of you are thinking either. It's uses are only limited by your
imagination.
However I'm glad you Americans and other assorted citizens of the world
don't like it. Why, then there is more for me.
Bon Appetite
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
ps Yes I was born here (which probably helps) and I'm told that when I was
brought home from the hospital everyone had fish and chips and I had a small
piece of soft bread - with Vegemite of course.
Hi Team,
Many of you may recall the brief but poignant Vegemite Thread of some months
ago. List regular Pat Quinn of Australia and I quickly "took it outside"
(i.e., off list) and to make a long story short, Pat agreed to send me a
sample of this uniquely Australian delicacy composed of concentrated yeast
extract. Well, a 115-gram jar arrived a few days ago, and I thought I'd
share the results with the rest of you as I take this opportunity to
publicly thank Pat for the gift.
Upon opening the jar the first thing that hits you is the aroma. It is
strong and, to a neophyte such as myself, mildly offensive. It has the
appearance of chocolate, but the smell quickly dispels that notion.
I spread a thin coat on a piece of toast -- apparently the correct and
traditional way to enjoy Vegemite -- and sampled it. Now, I have lived in
many places in the world where the cuisine is, shall we say,
non-traditional. I've sampled many things that one would not normally even
think of eating, except perhaps in a survival situation, and so I may have a
bit broader perspective on the subject of food than many. My assessment of
Vegemite is that it's not really that bad. I can understand how some would
grow accustomed and even attached to it. You might say that it's an
acquired taste, but so are lots of things, including life with old British
cars.
While most of us Norte Americanos are used to sweet-tasting things on our
toast -- sweet butter, jams, marmalades, etc. -- Vegemite is decidedly
savory and so it's what you might call a non-traditional toast experience
for us Yankees. But not a bad one. Vegemite is also a terrific source of
the vitamin B components of thiamin, riboflavin, niacin and folate.
For those of you who require additional information I'd recommend:
www.vegemite.com.au
Thanks again, Pat. The label on the jar you sent says "Best before 13 Feb
02," and we'll see if it lasts that long. I may be ready for a resupply
about the time of Healey International 2002! Let's do breakfast.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at kscable.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 20:39:10 -0500
Subject: Laygear Part Number
Does anyone out there know if the laygear p/n 45036 goes to the early (to
#5145)
or late (#5146 and up) BN1 3spd gearbox? I am trying to locate a laygear and
3rd gear (Moss #031-337) for the latter serial number. I found a laygear with
the pn above and don't know if it is the correct one.
Thanks,
Steve Galyean
55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 20:48:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Vegemite Redux (Still no LBC content - over the top)
Pat, Reid -
All of this talk of vegemite brought a tear to my eye.
But let's set the record straight, if it has anything
to do with beer the Aussies will always love it!
Living and travelling through Asia, though, I've had
more than my fair share of strange cuisine, including:
1. Flaccid river tubeworms (served raw, Hainan)
2. Duck tounge Sautee (Kunming)
3. Wok fried Cat (Civit Cat actually, endangered,
Hainan, not happy about that)
4. Shark's Fin Soup (unfortunately, as I am a rather
ardent environmentalist, but in china you can't be
rude to your host and refuse Shark's fin - which is
sort of a crock actually)
5. Sauteed Cat w/ shrimp paste (Hanoi)
6. Baloot (semiformed birds eggs, suck the juice dry
then munch the bones & feathers, mmmm , Philippines)
7. Curried beetles (Northern thailand, yeuuk)
I'm still looking forward to the following:
1. Dog BBQ (Mindanao, Philippines)
2. Fresh Monkey Brain w/ garlic (Southern China)
Rule number one of all of this:
Tabasco makes it all palettable! Reid - you want me
to send you a can of raw tubeworms?
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 22:30:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Vegemite Redux (Still no LBC content - tough)
"Quinn, Patrick" wrote:
> < Vegemite is not bad on hot crumpets either and no that's not
> what a few of you are thinking either. >
Have you tried it that way? Might be worth a chapter in your new Vegemite cook
book.
Bill Lawrence (Now let's talk some green chili.)
Albuquerque, NM
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 01:09:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Pertronix Ignition
And if memory serves, 3 degrees BTDC equates to 5/8 inch on the perimeter of
the balancer.
Keith Pennell
> I'm not positive w/ the BN6, but isn't 6BTDC a static
> timing measure? This means if you are using
> stroboscopic timing, you should add about 3 degrees to
> the advance at idle (due to vacuum advance) or 9BTDC.
> I could be wrong here, but you should confirm if the
> 6BTDC figure is static or stroboscopic at idle.
> Alan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ryoung at oro.net (Rich Young)
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 22:50:33 -0700
Subject: vibration damper
Many thanks to you Ken & Tom for your answers to my enquiry of the crank
dampner. I will try your described method and hope I don't find something
more serious. I've since spoken to friend who too had the same problem on
his BJ8 - which turned out to be a worn woodruff key. So, I'll think
positive!
Best regards,
Rich Young
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:35:45 +0100
Subject: Compression test
I have borrowed a compression tester from a friend. There are no
particular problems that I know of or anticipate, but I am
curious as to what I might find.
It might be sensible to note that I have never handled a
compression tester before.
1) The actual physical process seems easy enough............are
there any hidden snags? Can one move from plug to plug with the
engine running? (Not that I can see any particular advantage in
so doing).
2) My BMC manual mentions "B.M.E.P. 167lb./sq.in at 2,700
r.p.m" I suppose this is my hoped for target? and what - for
interest's sake is - B.M.E.P.?? (I hope it is a reference to some
arcane system of measurement devised by the Longbridge Masonic
Lodge. However, I brace myself for disappointment on that score).
3) What readings are acceptable and what variance, cylinder to
cylinder?
4) My car has a new fast road cam and a slightly modded head. I
don't suppose this is relevant? 2,700 r.p.m is 2,700r.p.m. Right?
Thanks, hopefully,
Simon Lachlan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:40:11 -0400
Subject: Rear main seal
Hello again,
I have been studying parts catalogs and compiling a list of parts I expect
to need for rebuilding the engine on the 100M? I will be trailering home on
Sunday. Two of the catalogs list what appears to be modification kit for
the rear main crankshaft seal. Does anyone have any experience with these?
Are they different? Do they work well enough to be worthwhile? A similiar
kit has been available for the T series MGs with mixed results, which is
the reason for my question.
Thanks,
Gene
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 23:52:16 +1000
Subject: Re: BN1 Laygear Part Number
Hi Steve,
I only have a very early edition of the BN1 parts manual - Publication 1050
issue date March 1954.
It shows the laygear as part 1B3481
2nd gear as 1B3550
and 3rd gear as part 1B3625
There are no 'up to car number' (i.e. superseded part numbers for gearbox
gears) - in my very early manual!!
Best regards
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean@kscable.com>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 11:39 AM
Subject: Laygear Part Number
>
> Does anyone out there know if the laygear p/n 45036 goes to the early (to
> #5145) or late (#5146 and up) BN1 3spd gearbox?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 07:29:43 -0700
Subject: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
My fellow Healey community,
I know this discussion and question is flammable but, I am about to fill a
brand new brake system with brake fluid.
I have been told by reputable sources to use only original Castrol Girling
fluid. Now other sources (also reputable) tell me, in no uncertain terms,
to go with the silicone. What am I to do? I want to do it right the first
time and have heard that the silicone is hygroscopic but the pipe will still
have moisture entering via condensation, open air when filling, bleeding
etc. so it does not matter. If you had to do it all over again new, which
would you now chose? Looking for the short answer and not thesis style
physics. I think I have the theory done pretty well already..
DP- BJ8 about to go and hopefully stop as well.....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Michel R. Gagne" <mgagne at unc.edu>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:16:11 -0400
Subject: Soldering vs crimping bullet connectors
Hi I haven9t listened in on the list for a while so I apologize if this has
been recently discussed. Regarding the above question I9m looking for
advice on which path to take and possibly any URL addresses that give good
instructions along with helpful graphics on the soldering route. I9m
currently fixing some significant wiring snafus from a PO. This is for, by
the way, a 74 Midget, but I9m a Healey-wannabee. I9m not looking for
absolute originality, but for good stable fixes that look appropriate.
Thanks,
Mike Gagne
Chapel Hill, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:52:20 -0700
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
Things to think about:
Is your paint new? Silicon wont damage it. (this was a biggy for me). Pressure
bleeders ALWAYS spill fluid on the car, and new pipes ALWAYS leak.
How "NEW" is the master cylinder? Mine was NOS and I guess it had been loobed
with something that didn't like silicon because the main plunger seal swelled
just enough to stop new fluid from getting in. Once I replaced this seal, all
was
well and has been for 2 years.
Do you mind carrying this stuff around with you forever? Most parts stores don't
stock it. So you will have to carry a supply on long trips. Or chance running
out. (this almost happened to me)
Dwight Patten wrote:
> My fellow Healey community,
> I know this discussion and question is flammable but, I am about to fill a
> brand new brake system with brake fluid.
> I have been told by reputable sources to use only original Castrol Girling
> fluid. Now other sources (also reputable) tell me, in no uncertain terms,
> to go with the silicone. What am I to do? I want to do it right the first
> time and have heard that the silicone is hygroscopic but the pipe will still
> have moisture entering via condensation, open air when filling, bleeding
> etc. so it does not matter. If you had to do it all over again new, which
> would you now chose? Looking for the short answer and not thesis style
> physics. I think I have the theory done pretty well already..
>
> DP- BJ8 about to go and hopefully stop as well.....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 12:00:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear main seal
Gene, Welcome to Healey Land it sounds like you got a real find there in what
sounds like an original 100"m". We have been suplying a rear seal kit for all
the big Healeys for the last 10 years and have had very good sucess with
them. There is another kit available out there but is not made for the 100.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 12:03:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Laygear Part Number
Steve the two BN1 cluster gears are very similar and are hard to tell apart,
we have several used cluster gears for the BN1 gear box. But the best way is
to have yours in hand to compare and make sure the we get the correct one.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:05:16 -0700
Subject: RE: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
My erratic clutch operation has gone away since switching back to Castrol
from silicone. But be warned that switching back like I did requires
changing all the seals except on the calipers.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 12:24:00 -0400
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
This site confirms our experiences.
http://home.earthlink.net/~goodspeeds/BRAKES2.HTM
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 12:54:17 -0700
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
Silicone!! Water droplets will move into the reservoir and can be removed. EDS
Dwight Patten wrote:
> My fellow Healey community,
> I know this discussion and question is flammable but, I am about to fill a
> brand new brake system with brake fluid.
> I have been told by reputable sources to use only original Castrol Girling
> fluid. Now other sources (also reputable) tell me, in no uncertain terms,
> to go with the silicone. What am I to do? I want to do it right the first
> time and have heard that the silicone is hygroscopic but the pipe will still
> have moisture entering via condensation, open air when filling, bleeding
> etc. so it does not matter. If you had to do it all over again new, which
> would you now chose? Looking for the short answer and not thesis style
> physics. I think I have the theory done pretty well already..
>
> DP- BJ8 about to go and hopefully stop as well.....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:30:44 -0500
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
regardless of which you use, silicon or lma, you need to carry a spare
container.
Brian Mix wrote:
>
>
> Things to think about:
>
> Is your paint new? Silicon wont damage it. (this was a biggy for me). Pressure
> bleeders ALWAYS spill fluid on the car, and new pipes ALWAYS leak.
>
> How "NEW" is the master cylinder? Mine was NOS and I guess it had been loobed
> with something that didn't like silicon because the main plunger seal swelled
> just enough to stop new fluid from getting in. Once I replaced this seal, all
>was
> well and has been for 2 years.
>
> Do you mind carrying this stuff around with you forever? Most parts stores
>don't
> stock it. So you will have to carry a supply on long trips. Or chance running
> out. (this almost happened to me)
>
> Dwight Patten wrote:
>
> > My fellow Healey community,
> > I know this discussion and question is flammable but, I am about to fill a
> > brand new brake system with brake fluid.
> > I have been told by reputable sources to use only original Castrol Girling
> > fluid. Now other sources (also reputable) tell me, in no uncertain terms,
> > to go with the silicone. What am I to do? I want to do it right the first
> > time and have heard that the silicone is hygroscopic but the pipe will still
> > have moisture entering via condensation, open air when filling, bleeding
> > etc. so it does not matter. If you had to do it all over again new, which
> > would you now chose? Looking for the short answer and not thesis style
> > physics. I think I have the theory done pretty well already..
> >
> > DP- BJ8 about to go and hopefully stop as well.....
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 14:58:05 -0400
Subject: compression test
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Message-ID: <3B7D4BD7.1EA472F8@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 12:52:39 -0400
From: Dennis Broughel <brougheldp@earthlink.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.75 [en] (Win95; U)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: simon.lachlan@virgin.net
Subject: Re: vibration damper
References: <v01540b04b7a25fac71ef@[209.77.96.196]>
Dear Rich:
The only way I have ever done a compression test was to take out all the
spark plugs. Screw the business end of the tester into the spark plug hole than
crank the engine over about 5 times, read and document the the findings. If you
have a discrepancy of more than 10-20 % you should have someone with more engine
experience look into problem. If you get no reading at all on one of the
cylinders you most likely have a valve hung partially open, and if a valve is
thought to be hung, bring the affected piston up to the top of the cylinder
with
both valves closed, force compressed air into the spark plug hole and listen to
either the exhaust or intake manifold (carbs if they are attached)
Dennis Broughel
Bn-4 Longbridge
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Loftus <loftusdesign at home.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 12:05:54 -0700
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
> What am I to do?
According to the P.O.'s record book the soft parts in the brake and clutch were
replaced and Dot 5 (silicone) fluid added in August '89. I bought the car 2
years ago and one of the wheel cylinders was leaking. When replacing the soft
parts, the wheel cylinders showed moderate corrosion and pitting. Could have
been
water settling to the lowest points. Plan to change to Dot 4 when rebuilding the
hydraulics next time. Would prefer a firmer pedal and less fade when the brake
fluid heats up. Just plan to be very careful with the Dot 4 around the paint.
Anybody sell a healey condom?
G'luck,
John
BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From List Administration <lists at autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:38:18 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Forwarded: Re: V1 #370
For some reason, this was sent to me rather than healeys@autox.team.net.
Reply to author, not me.
mjb.
----
------- Start of forwarded message -------
From: "Paul Negus" <pauln@iplbath.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:05:09 +0100
Subject: Re: V1 #370
Fred
I would second Alan's comments. I have just fitted a Pertronix to
my early BN4 and had to rotate the distributor shaft one tooth.
The BN4 should only have one timing mark - possibly your engine
has had a replacement at some time from another model using the
six cylinder engine block.
Even though my distributor was fully rebuilt some 5000 miles ago,
the Pertronix gives much smoother idle. Hopefully, you will see an
improvement too!
Regards
Paul
Longbridge BN4
------- End of forwarded message -------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:24:24 -0700
Subject: Christies Pebble Beach Auction
Two Healey's are listed for auction.
1. 60, BN7L-9217 Estimate $45-55k
2. 65, BJ8L-30287 Estimate $50-70k
Hang on to your Healeys boys and girls !!!!
Kirk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 18:45:19 EDT
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
Woth all this talk agoin about silicone fluid or not silicone fluid and where
the water goes. I have a demonstration that i use for all the people that
come into our shop.
Take a small amount of both silicone fluid and regular fluid and pour a small
amount of water into each of them, watch were the water goes in both of them.
Now remember there is moisture in the air and when you use the brakes the
fluid level moves up and down in the reservoir displacing the air . When this
air comes into the reservoir it has moisture in it and where does it go?
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 09:16:00 +1000
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
Am I just lucky, or being overly optimistic ?
I have a basic original brake system and apart from the weekly routine of
checking all consumables I have never had the need to carry brake fluid (or
any other fluids) with me. I would figure that in 7 years of ownership I
have had to top up a total of maybe 500ml, apart from annually bleeding the
entire system.
>
> regardless of which you use, silicon or lma, you need to carry a spare
container.
> >
>
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 09:18:10 +1000
Subject: Healey Site Update
Hello All
I have just completed an update to my site and am pleased to announce
that the site will exclusively cover the restoration of the first
production 100, body number 24 owned by Blair Harber. The restoration of
this unique 100 is well underway and the first two pages are now
available on the site. Also included with this update is page 20 of my
own restoration. Happy weekend reading!
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 19:42:42 EDT
Subject: BN-1 Windscreen Shoulder Bolt
Hi all:
I'm needing a shoulder bolt (Moss pg. 170, under Windshield, No. 18, listed
as NA). I've got a CNC machinist that will make one for me and get it
plated. Upshot is that for a few more bucks I can make 30 or 50 of them.
Anyone else need one? I think if I do a batch of 30-50, the cost gets down
to about $12.50 each.
They will be made from brass stock and Nickel plated. They will duplicate my
existing, apparently original, shoulder bolt.
Let me know by Tuesday morning.
Steve
1954 BN1 "Brutus"
Up on blocks in Chico, CA
Should be ready for his 50th birthday, 2004
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 19:16:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Christies Pebble Beach Auction
<<Two Healey's are listed for auction.>>
And out od "minor" courtsey, the "links are,Kirk????
Oh, MISSING!!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 22:42:38 EDT
Subject: Re: BN-1 Windscreen Shoulder Bolt
Steve
Will you have the shoulder bolts made per Moss, all right hand threads on the
small screw, or original, one left hand one right?
Aloha
Perry
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Healeyguy at aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 00:40:19 EDT
Subject: Re: BN-1 Windscreen Shoulder Bolt
Steve
Once again I have in haste made an incorrect statement. Originally the small
screws were both left hand threads.
Aloha
Perry
<
In a message dated 8/17/2001 7:45:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Healeyguy@aol.com writes:
> Steve
> Will you have the shoulder bolts made per Moss, all right hand threads on
> the small screw, or original, one left hand one right?
> Aloha
> Perry>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 20:39:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Laygear Part Number
Steve
Sorry but I do not recognise your number 45036. I suspect that this is
not correct for your gearbox unless somebody other than Austin/BMC made
it.
What you are looking for is either
Early Laygear with bushes 1B 3481 often marked 1B 3474
or
Later Laygear with bushes 1B 3693 often marked 1B 3694
I would not rely on the gearbox serial number unless you know its full
history. I have found many later gearboxes repaired with the earlier set
of three gears.
I doubt if Moss will be able to help. Your best bet is to appeal to
other 100 owners who might part with a good spare.
I expect you know this but you cannot mix the sets of three gears.
(First Motion, Laygear and third speed)
All the best
>Does anyone out there know if the laygear p/n 45036 goes to the early (to
>#5145)
> or late (#5146 and up) BN1 3spd gearbox? I am trying to locate a laygear and
>3rd gear (Moss #031-337) for the latter serial number. I found a laygear with
>the pn above and don't know if it is the correct one.
>
>Thanks,
>Steve Galyean
>55 BN1
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 00:16:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
Dwight -
I'm not sure what to say here. I put Silicon in my
BJ8 about 8 years ago, and regretted it 6 months later
when just about every rubber part in my brake system
failed (although, to be fair, I had castrol LMA dot 4
in it to begin with, flushed it out and put the
silicon in).
Maybe the silicon fluids are more compatible these
days to traditional british brake rubber systems, I
don't know, but I sure as hell had a disasterous
experience with the stuff a while back. Dot 4 works
just fine for me...
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Dwight Patten <pattend@nortelnetworks.com> wrote:
>
> My fellow Healey community,
> I know this discussion and question is flammable
> but, I am about to fill a
> brand new brake system with brake fluid.
> I have been told by reputable sources to use only
> original Castrol Girling
> fluid. Now other sources (also reputable) tell me,
> in no uncertain terms,
> to go with the silicone. What am I to do? I want
> to do it right the first
> time and have heard that the silicone is hygroscopic
> but the pipe will still
> have moisture entering via condensation, open air
> when filling, bleeding
> etc. so it does not matter. If you had to do it all
> over again new, which
> would you now chose? Looking for the short answer
> and not thesis style
> physics. I think I have the theory done pretty well
> already..
>
> DP- BJ8 about to go and hopefully stop as well.....
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 09:51:14 EDT
Subject: Re: BN-1 Windscreen Shoulder Bolt
Aloha Perry:
Are you thinking shoulder bolt or knurled knob? I'm talking about the bolt
that the bottom of the link pivots on. It also has a small hole in the end
for the bottom end of the security spring.
Both my right and left sides are right handed thread. I believe my left side
to be original, but my right side could be a reproduction.
Is your right side right handed or left handed threads?
Regards.
Steve
In a message dated 8/17/01 7:45:05 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Healeyguy@aol.com writes:
<< Steve
Will you have the shoulder bolts made per Moss, all right hand threads on
the small screw, or original, one left hand one right?
Aloha
Perry >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 14:47:45 +0100
Subject: Compression test
Thank you for all the replies, all of which were most helpful.
I had not intended to run the test with the engine running.....I
had not given any thought to how it might be done with the plugs
in though!
Which takes me off on a tangent....years ago, I had a device
which claimed to inflate tyres. One took out a plug, screwed in a
pipe from this little pump/one way valve thingie, connected the
other end to the flat tyre and ran the engine. I'd suppose that
it would have filled the tyre with petrol fumes. Actually, it was
USELESS as I recall and wouldn't have inflated a lilo.
Which takes me off on another petrol fumes related story....
years ago, in the army reserve, I used occasionally to drive
petrol driven Bedford trucks. They were very good, hard working
machines..... brutish, but sound. They had mechanical fuel pumps.
The trick was to switch off the ignition and run down a hill in
fourth. The wheels turned the engine which turned the fuel
pump......the silencer(s) filled up with fumes. You shouldn't do
it for too far! Switch on the ignition and the bang varied from a
good backfire to a new exhaust system. Anything from noise to
full shrapnel effect. This was an amusing, but not popular,
diversion.
Enough.
Thanks for the help Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Jowett" <enquiries at ukhealey.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 10:42:30 +0100
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
I first used silicone brake fluid in a 67 BJ8 back in 84. The car was
restored with all new brakes. Over the last seventeen years the car has
stood all Winter and been used in the Summers without a problem. No leaks,
no sticking callipers and a good pedal.
Since then silicone fluid has been used in every Healey I have replaced
the brakes on, without a single problem!
Cheers.
Steve Jowett UK HEALEY
AUSTIN HEALEY - MG - TRIUMPH - JAGUAR
ASTON MARTIN
www.ukhealey.co.uk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 08:23:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Soldering vs crimping bullet connectors
I've found that if you can fix the wire end in a stable vertical position with
just enough bare length to show through the hole in the tip of the connector,
you can heat the connector and melt the solder into the socket and wire through
the hole. I think this is the best and cleanest way to do it.
Bill Lawrence
"Michel R. Gagne" wrote:
> Regarding the above question I9m looking for
> advice on which path to take
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 13:26:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Book Sought from UK
Hi Team,
I wonder if any list members living in the UK could help me locate a copy of
a new book: "The Mintex Man" by Guy Loveridge. It is a compilation of
racing photos during the 1950 - 1970s taken by Lionel Cleggs, and it doesn't
seem to be available from any of the usual US outlets. Thanks.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 17:22:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Book Sought from UK
Speaking of books being sought, does anyone have for sale, or know where I
could obtain, a copy of Clausager's "Original Austin Healey 100/3000", which
is apparently out of print?
Thanks,
Bob
>
>Hi Team,
>
>I wonder if any list members living in the UK could help me locate a copy
of
>a new book: "The Mintex Man" by Guy Loveridge. It is a compilation of
>racing photos during the 1950 - 1970s taken by Lionel Cleggs, and it
doesn't
>seem to be available from any of the usual US outlets. Thanks.
>
>Cheers,
>Reid Trummel
>Tampa, Florida
>2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Billy Carlisle <jcarlis at bellsouth.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 19:03:14 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: Fwd: Be Safe]
Something to think about and pass on.
Kay
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Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 10:46:48 -0400 (EDT)
To: Cherie2u@aol.com, Daysi3@aol.com, DMD126@mindspring.com,
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Subject: Fwd: Be Safe
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From: JoyKerns@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 05:45:30 EDT
Subject: Be Safe
To: wallen@austin.cc.tx.us, LilRunt51@aol.com, Bob.Wallace@compaq.com,
AMastr4030@aol.com, kevin_crosscountry@i.net.au, glenb@prodigy.net,
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> Please read this warning. To what ends will a person not go when seeking
> to do evil? Be safe.
>
> >>> > ----- Original Message -----
>
> The notice below was posted on JCPenney's e-mail this morning to
> sales associates and customers. Recently on Inside Edition there
> was an article about several new scams to abduct women.
>
> In one, a man comes up to a woman in a Mall or Shopping Center
> and asks if she likes pizza. When she says she does, he offers
> her $10000 to shoot a commercial for Pizza, but they need to go
> outside where the lighting is better. When the woman goes out
of
> the mall she is abducted and assaulted.
>
> Another ploy is a very nicely dressed man asks a woman if she
> would be in a Public Service announcement to discourage drug
use.
> The man explains that they don't want professional actors or
> celebrities; they want the average mother to do this. Once she
> leaves the mall she is a victim.
>
> The third ploy, and the most successful, a very frantic man
comes
> running in to the mall and asks a woman to please help him, his
> baby is not breathing. She runs out of the mall following him
and
> also becomes a victim. These have been happening in well-lit
> parking areas, in daylight as well as night time, all over the
> country. The abductor usually uses a van to abduct the woman.
>
> 'Inside Edition' set up a test in a Mall and 10 out of 15 women
> went out of the mall on the Pizza and the PSA scam. And all of
> them went out of the mall on the baby scam. Please pass this
along
> to your friends and family as now that it has been shown on
> nationwide TV there are bound to be copycats of this. The third
> one, I think, is the scariest. You might resist pizza or becoming
> a commercial celebrity.but who would be able to resist a frantic
> father asking for help for his child?
>
> A woman was shopping at the Tuttle Mall in Columbus. She came
> out to her car and saw she had a flat. She got her jack and
> spare out of the trunk. A man in a business suit came up and
> started to help her. When the tire had been replaced, he asked
> for a ride to his car on the opposite side of the mall. Feeling
> uncomfortable about doing this, she stalled for a while, but he
> kept pressing her. She finally asked why he was on this side of
> the mall if his car was on the other. He claimed he had been
> talking to friends. Still uncomfortable, she told him that she
> had just remembered something she had forgotten to pick up at
the
> mall and she left him and went back inside the mall. She
> reported the incident to the mall security and they went out to
> her car. The man was nowhere in sight. Opening her trunk, she
> discovered a briefcase the man had set inside her trunk while
> helping her with the tire. Inside were rope and a butcher knife.
> And, when she took the tire to be fixed, the mechanic informed
> her that there was nothing wrong with her tire, that it was flat
> because the air had been let out of it.
>
> I was going to send this to the ladies only, but guys, if you love
> your mothers, wives, sisters, daughters, etc., you may want to
pass
> it on to them, as well. Send this to any woman you know that may
> need to be reminded that the world we live in has a lot of crazies
> in it....better safe than sorry. PLEASE BE SAFE AND NOT SORRY!
> JUST A WARNING TO ALWAYS BE ALERT AND USE YOUR HEAD!!! Pass this
> along to every woman you have access to. Never let your guard
> down.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 22:29:47 EDT
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
I have had silicone brake fluid in my Austin Healey for over 10 years with
absolutely no problems. It was added after the entire hydraulic system was
rebuilt and flushed clear.
Now the Jensen Healey was another issue. It was put in and I immediately had
problems with a rear brake locking up solid right after It was done. It was
switched back to Castrol LMX and everything has been fine since.
Makes you wonder.
Bob Humphreys
1960 AH 3000 BT7
1974 JH 18677
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 00:17:56 -0400
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
For what its worth, my Silicone experience. On each all the hydraulics except
the calipers were completely rebuilt at time of switch.
67 BJ8 for 16 years, no problem
75 Jensen Healey for 10 years, no problem
73 Jensen Healey for 9 years, no problem
MGTD, 2 years no problem. I did flush the lines (only) with denatured alcohol
on
this one.
Scirocco, 2 years no problem
356 for 1 year, no problem
The Nash Healey will get the same treatment.
I don't bleed the systems annually, although my intentions are good. I do
recommend it. Say a quarter cup from each cylinder.
This is an ongoing discussion. I have no idea why it works for some situations,
not for others. Perhaps this data will help a little,
toward finding the common threads. .
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hm.heim at t-online.de (Helga & Martin Heim)
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 13:12:27 +0200
Subject: Re: Book Sought from UK
Hi Reid,
try: http://www.motorbooks.co.uk/ they have it, and it looks like
they send everywhere in the world.
Regards
Martin
Germany
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 10:26 PM
Subject: Book Sought from UK
>
> Hi Team,
>
> I wonder if any list members living in the UK could help me locate a
copy of
> a new book: "The Mintex Man" by Guy Loveridge. It is a compilation
of
> racing photos during the 1950 - 1970s taken by Lionel Cleggs, and it
doesn't
> seem to be available from any of the usual US outlets. Thanks.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Peter Lovewell" <Lovewell at talk21.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 14:50:37 +0100
Subject: Front brake calipers
Hi fellow Healeyists,
I have a 3000 BJ7, and I am rebuilding the front suspension etc. I have been
offered late BJ8 front brake calipers but I understand that they are different
to BJ7s. Can I fit them and if so what else must I change.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Art Braundmeier" <abraund at siue.edu>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 09:03:50 -0500
Subject: Speedo right_angle drive fix
The threads on the male end of my speedo right_angle drive need to be dressed.
Any suggestions as to where I might buy a die (would like to get the
corresponding tap also) to do the job. The threads look to be 3/4 inch by 36
threads per inch -- but this could be incorrect.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Art Braundmeier
HBJ8L/34199
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 16:14:33 +0100
Subject: Dismantling speedo - how to remove trip-meter reset arm?
Trying to do a refurb on my BJ8 speedo.
How do I remove the rod that resets the trip-meter? Even if I remove the
knurled knob (by pushing out the rolled pin) it still looks like there's
too much rod to allow unforced dismantling.
What's the trick? Can I avoid taking out the rolled pin?
-
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dave Godlewski" <Davegodlewski at att.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 9:58:00 -0700
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
Thought I'd weigh in with my 2". I replaced the fluid in the hydraulic system
of my BJ7 more than 10 years ago during a rebuild. Never flushed the system,
but bled it really well. I found that getting air bubbles out was more of a
chore initially (I ended up using one of those plastic hand-powered vacuum
pumps), but since, have had absolutely no problems, even with an unfortunate
4-year, not-run, residence for the car under a tarp outside. I have had no
reason to tear the system down to inspect the seals, but if I did, I suspect
that they would look as good as that aforementioned plastic hand pump which
with silicone fluid in it for 10-years still looks and works as good as new.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Jim Barchek" <ajb at tx3.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 11:03:08 -0700
Subject: what's this stuff worth?
I have retired my 3000 mk1 from vintage racing and will continue to drive it
on the street. I have some extra stuff I'll probably never need again. I have
no idea of its value. Can anybody tell me what seems a fair price if I sell
it?
1. fresh professionally rebuilt engine, never installed--mild mods--ran
production class
2. two transmissions-ok but probably should be gone through
3.factory hardtop---good rear window
And if I did sell it, how the heck do you ship stuff this big and heavy?
Thanks, Jim B. (Seattle area)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ajtoepfe <ajtoepfe at flash.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 12:55:50 -0600
Subject: Starter Solenoid
The starter solenoid on my 59 BT7 is working intermittently. It is the
original style (Part # 546-020 in Moss catalog). The starter switch is
working and the solenoid plunger is working, but the contacts must be eroded
inside the solenoid. Does anyone know if there is a way to take the unit
apart and clean the contacts? It looks like a sealed unit to me.
Al Toepfer
59 BT7L/1173
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 12:19:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BJ8 Turn Signal Actuator -
I have recently acquired a a beautiful BJ8 that needs some minor
sorting out. One of the items that isn't quite right is the Turn
Signal actuator on the steering column hub. The turn signals
function (i.e., "blink"), but the lever will not hold in position
until cancelled. This requires that the lever be held manually by
one hand until the turn is made. Before I pull blindly things apart
and get myself into trouble, can anyone provide information regarding
how to correct this problem? - Jack jaschaible@yahoo.com
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 22:00:15 +0200
Subject: Re Front brake calipers
You can4t change into BJ8 calipers on your BJ7 unless you change the stubaxles
into BJ8 ones. However there is a much easier and cheaper way. You can fit
Girling metric calipers which look just like the BJ8 calipers and uses pistons
of the same size. They goes directly on the BJ7 stubaxles. However you need to
change the disc into a BJ8, which you also have to do if you change into BJ8
calipers. The calipers comes from early seventies european Ford Capris, Granada
and Taunus and can be bought over here for as little as 10 dollars each at
junkyards. For a more comprehensive instruction on how to make this change
search the list archive, since I have written about this before.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 15:13:11 -0500
Subject: OD on BJ8 shot craps
While on an early morning Healey excursion, I detected a smell of
electric/plastic burning. About that time the OD switched itself from
OD to regular 4th gear. I shut off the ignition and coasted to the side
of the road. There was no smoke, at least that I saw, and no noise. I
looked under the hood in the area of the OD adjustment switch and
nothing looked amiss, i.e., no flames, burned wires, etc.
It's pretty apparent that I cooked something but I don't have any
idea where yet.
My questions for the masses:
1. Where would one look for the problem based on the sketchy info
provided?
2. Anyone else had a similar problem and could tell me how to avoid
what occurred? If it's as simple as a chafed wire, that will be easier
than something in the internals that caused the overload.
Any ideas would be appreciated!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 19:51:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Obtaining AH Judging Standards
Hi y'all,
I am new to the Healey list, having just obtained my first "big" Healey
ever, a '56 BN2, to restore.
Can anyone tell me where I can obtain a copy of the AH Judging Standards?
Also, I understand that a man named Bill Meade has an AH registry that, if
one becomes a member, will result in all kinds of detailed information on
Healeys being sent to the new member. Does anyone know what this is all
about?
Thanks in advance,
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jim Morrison <nljm at home.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 17:24:56 -0700
Subject: Re: silicone Vs. the other brake fluid
You ... have 2" ?
Dave Godlewski wrote:
> Thought I'd weigh in with my 2". I replaced the fluid <snip>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 18:35:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Obtaining AH Judging Standards
On Sun, 19 Aug 2001 19:51:21 -0400, Wiedemeyer wrote:
<< Hi y'all, I am new to the Healey list, having just obtained my first
"big" Healey ever, a '56 BN2, to restore. Can anyone tell me where I can
obtain a copy of the AH Judging Standards? Also, I understand that a man
named Bill Meade has an AH registry that, if one becomes a member, will
result in all kinds of detailed information on Healeys being sent to the new
member. Does anyone know what this is all about? Thanks in advance, Bob >>
Bob,
For the Concours Committee's Originality Guide see page 126 of the 2001
Austin-Healey Resource Book which reads:
--------
CONCOURS REGISTRY
The Concours Registry is an independent, volunteer organization that
researches, compiles and publishes Originality Guides, and which organizes
and conducts inspections of cars at major Austin-Healey events. The
Originality Guides can be extremely useful for anyone restoring a car,
whether or not it is intended to be a "concours car." Copies are available
for $25 to cover copying and postage expenses.
REGISTRAR
Gary Anderson (650) 949-9680
361 N San Antonio Rd Editorgary@aol.com
Los Altos CA 94022
CHAIRMAN, JUDGING
Marion Brantley (727) 867-7129
2696 66th Terrace South MBran89793@aol.com
St. Petersburg FL 33712
CHAIRMAN, BIG HEALEY STANDARDS
Alan Alfano (860) 347-4400
155 Cranberry Lane aalfano02@snet.net
Middletown CT 06457
CHAIRMAN, SPRITE STANDARDS
Bruce Gearns (313) 563-5691
8288 Wormer BRUCE48127@aol.com
Dearborn Heights MI 48127-1355
DISTRIBUTION OF RESTORATION GUIDELINES
Walt Blanck (847) 918-9291
443 East Pine Lake Circle wblanck@mc.net
Vernon Hills IL 60061
Make checks for $25 (in US funds) payable to "Concours Registry" and specify
Big Healey or Sprite Originality Guide when ordering.
-----------
For Bill Meade's 100M Le Mans Registry see page 127 of the 2001
Austin-Healey Resource Book which reads, in part:
------------
WORLDWIDE 100M LE MANS REGISTRY
For owners of 100M models and other series BN1 and BN2 cars fitted with the
"Le Mans Engine Modification Kit." Identification Guide, certificate, dash
plaque, grille badge and jacket patch.
Bill Meade (831) 722-3253
533 Cedar Drive (voice and fax)
Watsonville CA 95076
------------
For information on the Austin-Healey Resource Book see:
http://www.healey.org/resource-book.shtml
Good luck.
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
Tampa, Florida
2 x BN2 and 2 x AN5
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <John at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 17:10:04 +0100
Subject: Re: Dismantling speedo - how to remove trip-meter reset arm?
Alan
If I remember correctly you first have to pull off the pointer and then
remove the dial which is held on by two small screws. There is now more
room around the mechanism and you should be able to ease the trip rod
through the hole in the casing. Obviously if you remove the pointer you
will have to rplace it in the correct position. The "official" method is
to spin the speedometer on a calibrated drive at the flex revs per mile
on the face, in rpm terms, and then refit the pointer at 60 mph. I would
not recommend this removal unless there is something that has to be
fixed.
All the best
>
>Trying to do a refurb on my BJ8 speedo.
>
>How do I remove the rod that resets the trip-meter? Even if I remove the
>knurled knob (by pushing out the rolled pin) it still looks like there's
>too much rod to allow unforced dismantling.
>
>What's the trick? Can I avoid taking out the rolled pin?
>-
>Alan Cross
>Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 00:01:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Soldering vs crimping bullet connectors
Micheal -
I'm one to believe that soldering bullet connectors is
the only way to go -
#1 - Once you figure it out, it's VERY easy to do (&
road repairs are simple)
#2 - The soldered connection is much less impervious
to corrosion & line resistance problems - especially
important on lines that carry alot of current like
lights & ignition circuits.
The process is quite simple (for soldering) - Get a
nice butane torch lighter (a small one is sufficient,
but a proper triggered butane torch can be found at
most harware stores & cigarette/cigar shops). Use the
torch lighter to heat the bullet connector & then drop
melted solder into the bullet's fixing hole. Then
simply place the stripped end of your wiring into the
hole while the solder is still melted and voila - a
beautiful, resistance free connection (use a vice grip
to loosely hold the bullet connector while you are
working with it - & place the vice grip on cement,
brick, or other heat resistant surface). If it
doesn't work the first time, reheat and disconnect
(you can't do this with crimp connections, by the
way), and try again. With a little practice (and the
right lighter), you'll make a great connection with as
much (or less) effort than a crimp connector set up.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
.
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MeditionM at netscape.net
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 03:16:30 -0400
Subject: Rear springs
As part of my BJ7 resto project, I tore apart one of the rear leaf springs to
clean and paint. Sandwiched between some of the leaves are thin strips of
“zinc” (according to one of my many Healey service manuals). The
strips are not magnetic. I did not mike them, but they appear to be maybe
40-50 thousands of an inch thick. The strips are in sad shape. Mostly the
ends are worn out. Is it worthwhile to replace these, and where would the
material for the inserts be available. Does anyone know what alloy these are
made of? My experience with zinc is that it is ridged, hard and potentially
brittle, and certainly not flexible as these pieces are. These apparently
provide “lubrication” allowing the adjacent leaves to slide over
one another.
Ken Mason
BJ7 Someday
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience
the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape!
http://shopnow.netscape.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dwight Patten" <pattend at nortelnetworks.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 06:04:06 -0700
Subject: Silicone Vs. the others-my decision made
Thanks to all who responded to my original query on whether to use silicone
or the "other brake fluids" in my newly rebuilt brake system. My
(personal) decision after considering all of the comments and anecdotes over
the past several days will be that I will be installing (rightly or wrongly)
original Castrol-Girling (i.e. not silicone) brake fluid in my new system.
It seems there were far more dynamics to the decision than I thought. New
DOT X types are likely being developed as I write this. Thinking about the
possibilities makes my brain hurt. Depending on such variables as whether
your brake system was older and being flushed out to receive a different
type of fluid or brand new awaiting the first installation of the brake's
life's blood, the opinions change. My decision was based, after all of the
discussion, on my gut feeling. I wish I had such a wonderful resource as
this email list to assist in all my other, yes even more important than
brake fluid, life's decisions. Thanks again.
dp
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 10:47:06 -0400
Subject: Christmas Cards
Does anyone know of a source for Healey Christmas Cards?
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ed Santoro <esantoro at drbc.state.nj.us>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 11:40:31 -0700
Subject: Classic Collectables
To the list : Does anyone have the phone number for Classic
Collectables? I need to get some sheet metal floors and outriggers for
my sickness. TIA. EDS
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 11:34:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Soldering vs crimping bullet connectors
And to that I would add:
#3 - A SOLDERED BULLET WILL NOT PULL OFF THE WIRE when
removed from the bullet connecting sleeve.
Also, Alan, I think you meant MORE impervious to corrosion and line
resistance.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
>
> Micheal -
>
> I'm one to believe that soldering bullet connectors is
> the only way to go -
>
> #1 - Once you figure it out, it's VERY easy to do (&
> road repairs are simple)
>
> #2 - The soldered connection is much less impervious
> to corrosion & line resistance problems - especially
> important on lines that carry alot of current like
> lights & ignition circuits.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 09:38:01 -0600
Subject: RE: Dismantling speedo - how to remove trip-meter reset arm?
Alan,
I took off the two screws holding the face plate (kept the needle in place)
and found that the trip shaft would still not clear.
However, once you have the face loose, you can easily access the small snap
ring (circlip) at the top of said shaft. Pull that off and the rod comes
out the bottom. Note the various bits as you do as they are stacked in
sequence.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan F Cross [mailto:alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 8:15 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Dismantling speedo - how to remove trip-meter reset arm?
>>How do I remove the rod that resets the trip-meter? Even if I remove the
knurled knob (by pushing out the rolled pin) it still looks like there's
too much rod to allow unforced dismantling.
What's the trick? Can I avoid taking out the rolled pin?
-
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.<<
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ross Leonard" <rkleonard at sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 12:16:40 -0400
Subject: Front axle assembly question
Good Day,
Though I took a few pictures of my front axle/hub assemblies before
dismantling, I've run into a problem trying to figure out where the locktabs
go. Could someone describe the location and orientation of the locktabs on a
64 BJ8 with wire wheels?
Thanks in advance!
Ross.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 12:14:44 -0500
Subject: 2001 Eden Encounter
Although I wasn't registered for any events, I decided to take a day trip to
the Eden resort and check out the cars at the Encounter. The drive to the
show was a real experience, don't get me wrong, the Healey ran great.. but
Lancaster county is not a place to be in the summer on a Saturday when it's
hot and humid. The traffic was outrageous, especially around the outlets, I
guess everyone was getting their back to school stuff. I came up route 30
and jumped on the route 30 by-pass, I think they have been working on this
road for the past ten years.. what a mess.. I felt sorry for anybody
following me and for other Healeys that made this trek. I was doing a lot of
swerving to avoid uneven pavement and pot holes. I was happy to see a good
turnout at the event, many nice 3000's and few sprites. I really expected
more parts suppliers to show up, I'm always looking for more parts, so I was
a little disappointed. I then headed home in a different direction. The
ride was much smoother and the back roads were a lot more fun than the major
ones. As I got close to home I passed a nice looking Blue/White BJ8 (I
think), probably headed for St. Peters Village. The round trip was 114
miles and she ran like a charm, except for that stupid miss around 3500
RPM's.. I want to remove the plugs and see if they tell me anything.
Steve
61BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dave Godlewski" <Davegodlewski at att.net>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 10:28:00 -0700
Subject: Cockpit trim
I need to replace the door seal on my BJ7. The current installation has it just
terminating at the top of the door behind the seat. Besides being ugly, this
has caused problems with snagging as people brush against it. Can anyone tell
me what the correct way is to terminate this? Does it wrap over? Does it
connect to those forlorn looking sheet-metal brackets just behind? Any help is
appreciated (a picture, being worth a thousand words, is even more
appreciated). Thanks
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Trmgafun at aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 14:02:34 EDT
Subject: Attaching Body Parts
Hi,
Within the next few months I'll be attaching the shrouds and wings onto the
chassis of my '57 BN4. I'm wondering whether any of you have chosen to use any
other types of hardware to attach these items rather than what is currently (or
originally) offered by the supply houses? Originality is important to me, but
sometimes what was used originally isn't necessarily a wise choice 45 or so
years later, especially for something as important as attaching somewhat
fragile body parts. Any of your ideas would be of interest to me.
Much thanks,
Scott Helms
Northern Indiana
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Alan F Cross <alanx at proaxis.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 19:21:02 +0100
Subject: Re: Dismantling speedo - how to remove trip-meter reset arm?
Adnan,
Many thanks for this. I have however discovered that there are a lot of
black lumps dropping out of the works - looks like bitumen, but I guess
just rubber mounting material that has perished, so I need parts. And I
also decided that, as taking off the indicator needle would probably
necessitate recalibration, it was best to get it off to a refurisher.
But I would appreciate guidance on servicing and lubricating the drive
cable. It moves OK, but the 'inner' is slightly sticky to the touch.
Should I remove it and soak both parts in solvent? And then re-lube with
what? I don't want to guess at a solution that leaves me with a jammed
cable in 6 months or so!
As always, many thanks for all the help from this list.
In message <1102E48B60EFD211BDDC00805F0D0642031BD145@pleasa1elm1.global>
, Merchant, Adnan <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com> writes
>
>Alan,
>
>I took off the two screws holding the face plate (kept the needle in place)
>and found that the trip shaft would still not clear.
>
>However, once you have the face loose, you can easily access the small snap
>ring (circlip) at the top of said shaft. Pull that off and the rod comes
>out the bottom. Note the various bits as you do as they are stacked in
>sequence.
>
>Regards,
>Adnan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Alan F Cross [mailto:alanx@proaxis.demon.co.uk]
>Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 8:15 AM
>To: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Dismantling speedo - how to remove trip-meter reset arm?
>
>>>How do I remove the rod that resets the trip-meter? Even if I remove the
>knurled knob (by pushing out the rolled pin) it still looks like there's
>too much rod to allow unforced dismantling.
>
>What's the trick? Can I avoid taking out the rolled pin?
>-
>Alan Cross
>Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.<<
-
Alan Cross
Wokingham, Berkshire, UK.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 14:56:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Classic Collectables
Hi Ed-
Here is the information on Classic Collectables Co. Phone 330/342-0001
216/310-9494
Fax 330/655-5602
They also have a web page at <www.ahealey.com>
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 15:01:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Christies Pebble Beach Auction
In a message dated 8/17/01 1:26:44 PM, klkvam@prodigy.net writes:
<<
Two Healey's are listed for auction.
1. 60, BN7L-9217 Estimate $45-55k
2. 65, BJ8L-30287 Estimate $50-70k
Hang on to your Healeys boys and girls !!!!
Kirk >>
Lots and Lots of Healeys for sale in Monterey this last weekend. RM had at
least 8! I didn't make the auctions so can't say what they sold for. As
soon as I get their final sales reports, I'll post them, if no one else has
info earlier.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 20:57:27 EDT
Subject: RE: (mine quit)
Thanks for all that responded, as I'm finally trying to figure why it just
stopped working.
Car was running fine one minute, not the next.
Fuel pumps fine. Wires, cap, points all good.
no spark at points.
What was the trick to the battery cut-off CB wire?
Thanks
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Young <wwy at fcol.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 21:29:23 -0700
Subject: responding on the list
Brother Bob Bridger, SJAHC
Welcome to the Healey list. Reply to
healeys@autox.team.net. Use the subject line
"thread".
Bill
BN2, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 18:29:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: (mine quit)
Rick - a few things to check ...
First - replace your condenser. These do go bad. If
that doesnt fix it, then...
Check your ignition coil power circuit, which
basically goes from the solenoid's hot lead to the
ignition switch, and then to the fusebox and then to
the coil (I think-check your manual to be sure).
Check for resistance in the lines, there should be no
resistance anywhere from the solenoid to the coil (be
sure ignition switch is on before checking) - if there
is any, it may be that not enough voltage will get to
the coil to power it sufficiently. If there is
resistance, keep the iteration going until you figure
out the specific wire (probably not your problem, but
a good thing to check nonetheless).
Also try swapping the coil. believe it or not, coils
DO in fact go bad. That can also cause the
"intermittent" running problem you are having.\
Also try removing the black and white wire from the
battery master switch. This wire grounds the ignition
when the switch is turned to the off position, and
I've had the master switch go bad and give me the
"intermittent" problems you talk about because the
switch broke internally and was intermittently
grounding the ignition in the ON position - shutting
off my car at mysterious times.
Good Luck!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- WilKo@aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks for all that responded, as I'm finally trying
> to figure why it just
> stopped working.
> Car was running fine one minute, not the next.
> Fuel pumps fine. Wires, cap, points all good.
> no spark at points.
>
> What was the trick to the battery cut-off CB wire?
>
> Thanks
> Rick
> San Diego
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 00:17:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Soldering vs crimping bullet connectors
This can also be accomplished with a soldering iron or gun. Place the
bullet on a wood board, a small depression in the wood helps hold the bullet
in position. Place the striped wire into the bullet so it just slightly
protrudes out the hole in the point. Hold the soldering iron on the bullet
and the solder at the large hole with the wire. When hot enough the solder
melts and the solder can be fed into the bullet.
Keith Pennell
> The process is quite simple (for soldering) - Get a
> nice butane torch lighter (a small one is sufficient,
> but a proper triggered butane torch can be found at
> most harware stores & cigarette/cigar shops). Use the
> torch lighter to heat the bullet connector & then drop
> melted solder into the bullet's fixing hole. Then
> simply place the stripped end of your wiring into the
> hole while the solder is still melted and voila - a
> beautiful, resistance free connection (use a vice grip
> to loosely hold the bullet connector while you are
> working with it - & place the vice grip on cement,
> brick, or other heat resistant surface). If it
> doesn't work the first time, reheat and disconnect
> (you can't do this with crimp connections, by the
> way), and try again. With a little practice (and the
> right lighter), you'll make a great connection with as
> much (or less) effort than a crimp connector set up.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alan
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 00:20:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear springs
Zinc is rather flexible. Whether these are an alloy or not I do not know.
If you find a source for these I am sure we all would like to know!
Keith Pennell
> As part of my BJ7 resto project, I tore apart one of the rear leaf springs
to clean and paint. Sandwiched between some of the leaves are thin strips
of “zinc” (according to one of my many Healey service manuals).
The strips are not magnetic. I did not mike them, but they appear to be
maybe 40-50 thousands of an inch thick. The strips are in sad shape.
Mostly the ends are worn out. Is it worthwhile to replace these, and where
would the material for the inserts be available. Does anyone know what
alloy these are made of? My experience with zinc is that it is ridged, hard
and potentially brittle, and certainly not flexible as these pieces are.
These apparently provide “lubrication” allowing the adjacent
leaves to slide over one another.
>
> Ken Mason
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Gschwind" <dgschwind at netonecom.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 00:27:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear springs
MeditionM writes:
From: <MeditionM@netscape.net>
>
> As part of my BJ7 resto project, I tore apart one of the rear leaf springs
to clean and paint. Sandwiched between some of the leaves are thin strips
of “zinc” (according to one of my many Healey service manuals).
Is it worthwhile to replace these, and where would the material for the
inserts be available. Does anyone know what alloy these are made of? My
experience with zinc is that it is ridged, hard and potentially brittle, and
certainly not flexible as these pieces are. These apparently provide
“lubrication” allowing the adjacent leaves to slide over one
another.
>
> Ken Mason
> BJ7 Someday
>
Ken, I'm not sure of the specific metalurgy, but most likely these are
rolled zinc strips installed for corrosion protection. It goes under the
names of "sacrificial corrosion" or 'cathodic corrosion", and is based on
the fact that in the presence of water, the zinc will corrode rather than
the steel, thereby extending the life of the springs in fatigue. I would
replace them, and I think you can get a suitible replacement if you contact
a large knowlegeable roofer. It's used under the top most shingles so its
gentle corrosion products running down the roof prevent the growth of moss.
It's the same principal with the zinc pieces on the foot of outboard
engines. The rigid zinc you refer to is usually die cast material, not
rolled stock.
DON
BJ8 Pandora
>
> __________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 01:40:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Black Plates A-Go-Go - Assembly Bill 834
OK Gang,
Let's send a letter to Gov. Gray Davis about something cool and not about
his energy policies!!! You can email Governor Gray Davis and ask him to
sign AB 834: mailto: <governor@governor.ca.gov>
> URGENT LISTER ALERT - Assembly Bill 834
> ------------------------------------------
>
Assembly Bill 834, introduced by Assemblyman Mike Brigs, will allow
California car owners the option of using vintage-style black & gold
licence plates on their pre-1969 classic cars, or pre-1972 classic trucks.
This will allow vehicle owners who's original licence plates have been
replaced with modern equivillents to purchase plates that are correct in
appearance to those issued in the vehicle's year of manufacture. Under
existing law, an owner of any vehicle that is a 1962, or older, may use
license plates similar to those issued in the model year that the vehicle
was manufactured.
This bill has been unanimously approved by the state Senate and will soon
appear before the Governor. There is very little time to act. If you're
intrested in supporting this bill, you can email Governor Gray Davis and
ask him to sign AB 834: mailto:governor@governor.ca.gov or fax:
916-445-2841. Also, you can send snail mail to:
> Governor Gray Davis
> State Capitol bldg.
> Sacramento, CA 95814
To learn more about AB 834, visit:
http://info.sen.ca.gov/cgi-bin/postquery?bill_number=ab_834&sess=CUR&house=B
&site=sen
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Carlos Cruz" <ahrdstr at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 08:52:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear springs
>If you find a source for these I am sure we all would like to know!
Check with Eaton Detroit Spring. They are located outside of Detroit.
Thier web site is http://www.eatonsprings.com and phone number is
313-963-3839. They manufacture springs from nearly every make and model of
car. Their specialty is American iron (makes sense their in Detroit). They
should have the zinc strips.
They should also be able to re-arch and/or fabricate new ones if needed,
using old Healey springs as a template. Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Carlos Cruz
'60 BN7
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:16:08 -0700
Subject: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
Subject: Re: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
> Results,
>
> BN7 sold for $42,300
> BJ8 sold for $75,200
>
> Kirk
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 1:24 PM
> Subject: Christies Pebble Beach Auction
>
>
> >
> > Two Healey's are listed for auction.
> >
> > 1. 60, BN7L-9217 Estimate $45-55k
> >
> > 2. 65, BJ8L-30287 Estimate $50-70k
> >
> > Hang on to your Healeys boys and girls !!!!
> >
> > Kirk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RanBullard at Clearchannel.com
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 14:18:38 -0400
Subject: Number plate on firewall
Hi all!
I have a question about the numberplate on the firewall of my '67 BJ8. The
chassis number , 3224BJ8, is on the top of the plate and underneath that is
82.116. What is the 82.116? I looked in Clausager's but didn't find an
explanation. On another subject, I once had a girlfriend who was a yoga
instructor. She pressured me into joining a yoga group. I found it to be a
boring, if not flexible experience. But now, whenever I find myself in a
contorted position under or inside the Healey, I laugh and try to come up
with a Sanskrit word for it. Such as: Underfasciafootwell, or
Insidebootius.
Ran Bullard
'67 BJ8 in many pieces
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 13:38:33 -0600
Subject: RE: Number plate on firewall
Hi,
If the number is literally written as 3224BJ8, that doesn't sound right as
the format is supposed to be HBJ8/Lxxxxx for a left-hand drive car (5-digit
VIN). BTW, if you have a '67, the VIN plate is slightly unique as compared
to other BJ8s. It's oval and has different verbiage.
The other number also seems incomplete and would be the body number. I
can't recall how many digits it's supposed to have, though.
Now Sanskrit, that's another matter altogether. If you want to sound
convincing, end the word with the sound of "yum" and you may pull it off.
That's about all I remember of Sanskrit (studied it for a few years).
Healeyum.
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: RanBullard@Clearchannel.com [mailto:RanBullard@Clearchannel.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 11:19 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Number plate on firewall
Hi all!
I have a question about the numberplate on the firewall of my '67 BJ8. The
chassis number , 3224BJ8, is on the top of the plate and underneath that is
82.116. What is the 82.116? I looked in Clausager's but didn't find an
explanation. On another subject, I once had a girlfriend who was a yoga
instructor. She pressured me into joining a yoga group. I found it to be a
boring, if not flexible experience. But now, whenever I find myself in a
contorted position under or inside the Healey, I laugh and try to come up
with a Sanskrit word for it. Such as: Underfasciafootwell, or
Insidebootius.
Ran Bullard
'67 BJ8 in many pieces
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 15:40:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Number plate on firewall
Hi, Ran -
82.116 is the body number of your car. The top line of the body tag (3224
BJ8) is not the chassis number but is the "batch number" that was common to
a group of bodies produced by Jensen Motors for BMC, while each car got its
own unique body number. One of the things I'm trying to determine via the
data in the BJ8 Registry is the number of bodies in each batch. It does not
seem to have been a constant quantity. Some body numbers have a decimal
included in them (e.g., 82.116) but others do not (e.g., my car is 81544).
Your car belongs to batch 3226. To date, the BJ8 Registry has a record of
451 bodies belonging to batch 3226,.
Incidentally, many people do not know the batch number is stamped on the
body tag because it is usually covered up by the clutch line that runs
across the top of the firewall and the tag.
The chassis number is the part of the Car Number (VIN) that follows
"HBJ8L/"
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <RanBullard@Clearchannel.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 2:18 PM
Subject: Number plate on firewall
>
> Hi all!
>
> I have a question about the numberplate on the firewall of my '67 BJ8.
The
> chassis number , 3224BJ8, is on the top of the plate and underneath that
is
> 82.116. What is the 82.116? I looked in Clausager's but didn't find an
> explanation. On another subject, I once had a girlfriend who was a yoga
> instructor. She pressured me into joining a yoga group. I found it to be
a
> boring, if not flexible experience. But now, whenever I find myself in a
> contorted position under or inside the Healey, I laugh and try to come up
> with a Sanskrit word for it. Such as: Underfasciafootwell, or
> Insidebootius.
>
> Ran Bullard
> '67 BJ8 in many pieces
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 13:40:39 -0700
Subject: Need info on Heater Knob Screw
Hey Guys,
This may be an obscure request but I recently purchased a repro
heater knob .. the one that slides for the heat and pulls for the
blower ... well I cannot figure out what screw I need to hold it in
place. It is tiny and comes up from underneath into the threaded
lever.
Has anyone got the specs on this and where is a place I could purchase one.
Thanks for any help
Rohan
(Longbridge BN4)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 15:20:07 -0600
Subject: RE: Number plate on firewall
Hi Steve,
I'm one of the ones that did not know there was a batch number on the VIN
tag :-)
I will have to go dig mine up because I don't recall seeing a number hidden
by the clutch line.
But then again...
Thanks,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Byers [mailto:byers@cconnect.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 12:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Number plate on firewall
Hi, Ran -
82.116 is the body number of your car. The top line of the body tag (3224
BJ8) is not the chassis number but is the "batch number" that was common to
a group of bodies produced by Jensen Motors for BMC, while each car got its
own unique body number. One of the things I'm trying to determine via the
data in the BJ8 Registry is the number of bodies in each batch. It does not
seem to have been a constant quantity. Some body numbers have a decimal
included in them (e.g., 82.116) but others do not (e.g., my car is 81544).
Your car belongs to batch 3226. To date, the BJ8 Registry has a record of
451 bodies belonging to batch 3226,.
Incidentally, many people do not know the batch number is stamped on the
body tag because it is usually covered up by the clutch line that runs
across the top of the firewall and the tag.
The chassis number is the part of the Car Number (VIN) that follows
"HBJ8L/"
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 17:18:37 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Body Numbers, was: Number plate on firewall
Sorry, but I should have said in the second paragraph of my last post that
Ran's car belongs to batch 3224.
I think I published these figures to the list not too long ago, but in case
there is anyone else out there interested in the production statistics of
BJ8s and who missed it before:
The first BJ8 body belonged to Batch 3171. There were a minimum of 11
bodies in this batch. This is determined from the difference in the lowest
body number currently recorded in the registry with that batch number, and
the highest. Continuing on through all the batches, the minimum number of
bodies included in each batch is as given below. It's interesting to note
that some batch numbers were apparently not used.
3172: 77
3173: zero
3174: zero
3175: 35
3176: zero
3177: 33
3178: 272
3179: zero
3180: zero
3181: 169
3182: 356
3183: zero
3184: 316
3185: zero
3186: 318
3187: zero
3188: zero
3189: zero
3190: 435
3191: zero
3192: zero
3193: 12
3194: zero
3195: zero
3196: zero
3197: 415
3198: 369
3199: zero
3200: zero
3201: 404
3202: 410
3203: zero
3204: zero
3205: 237
3206: 638
3207: zero
3208: 921
3209: 461
3210: zero
3211: 416
3212: 449
3213: zero
3214: 1025
3215: zero
3216: 362
3217: zero
3218: 469
3219: zero
3220: zero
3221: 470
3222: 451
3223: 403
3224: 441
3225: zero
3226: 451
3227: 484
3228: zero
3229: zero
3230: 497
3231: 398
3232: 402
3233: 493
3234: 441
3235: 436
3237: 209
3238: 213
3239: 166
3240: 352 (last batch number used)
Adding up the number of bodies above gives a total of 15,328 which would
leave 2,384 BJ8 bodies unaccounted for, and which I would guess would be
pretty much evenly divided among all the batch numbers except for those with
zeroes.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666 (3223 BJ8 81544)
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Byers" <byers@cconnect.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: Number plate on firewall
>
> Hi, Ran -
> 82.116 is the body number of your car. The top line of the body tag (3224
> BJ8) is not the chassis number but is the "batch number" that was common
to
> a group of bodies produced by Jensen Motors for BMC, while each car got
its
> own unique body number. One of the things I'm trying to determine via the
> data in the BJ8 Registry is the number of bodies in each batch. It does
not
> seem to have been a constant quantity. Some body numbers have a decimal
> included in them (e.g., 82.116) but others do not (e.g., my car is 81544).
>
> Your car belongs to batch 3226. To date, the BJ8 Registry has a record
of
> 451 bodies belonging to batch 3226,.
> Incidentally, many people do not know the batch number is stamped on the
> body tag because it is usually covered up by the clutch line that runs
> across the top of the firewall and the tag.
>
> The chassis number is the part of the Car Number (VIN) that follows
> "HBJ8L/"
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rich C" <rich.chrysler at sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 17:12:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear springs
> Zinc is rather flexible. Whether these are an alloy or not I do not know.
>
> If you find a source for these I am sure we all would like to know!
> > As part of my BJ7 resto project, I tore apart one of the rear leaf
springs
> to clean and paint. Sandwiched between some of the leaves are thin strips
> of “zinc” ( My experience with zinc is that it is ridged, hard
> and potentially brittle, and certainly not flexible as these pieces are.
> These apparently provide “lubrication” allowing the adjacent
> leaves to slide over one another.
Hi Guys,
Quite a number of years ago (as in 1982) I reworked the rear springs on my
old Mk II tricarb, and found these zinc interleaves. I took one to a local
custom spring shop, and they said that was "the old way to do it". They
recommended, and sold me a14 ft. roll of 2" wide black teflon interleaf
strip material, enough to do both springs, and charged the huge sum of
$2.00.
If you don't replace the old stuff with something, the original wrap around
keeper clips will be loose and will rattle as you go down the road.
The teflon strips were installed between each leaf and the results was most
satisfactory.
Rich Chrysler
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 15:49:22 -0600
Subject: RE: Number plate on firewall
Hi,
I place my car around May of 1967 and the VIN is 41065. There were a
number of cars made after that so I agree, the "last 50" is not accurate.
As to how many '67s had rectangular plates, I can't argue the point.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: John May [mailto:jdmay@attglobal.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 2:36 PM
To: Merchant, Adnan
Cc: 'RanBullard@Clearchannel.com'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Number plate on firewall
Its a nit, but lest it become "fact" over time, the oval plate only came on
the
late 67's. Probably Very late. At one time the thinking was "last 50
cars," but I doubt that. I have owned and seen many 67's that had the
rectangular plates.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Earle Knobloch <armynavy at gte.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 17:57:54 -0400
Subject: Valve adjustment Hot vs Cold
Hello all,
My '67 BJ8 runs after being asleep since 1974.....
Please help with the valve adjustment. The manual indicated the valves
are adjusted COLD but the valve cover tag indicates they adjusted HOT
I have them set at 0.012 COLD, do I now go back and reset them at 0.012
HOT?????
Thank you,
Earle Knobloch
Estero, Florida
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John May <jdmay at attglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 17:56:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Number plate on firewall
I can put 47465 as a rectangular plate, and Adnan has 41065 as oval. I wonder
if we can narrow it down and find out when the change was made. Can anybody
else contribute additional information between these numbers?
"Merchant, Adnan" wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I place my car around May of 1967 and the VIN is 41065.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "James Sailer" <sailer at srv.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 16:04:48 -0600
Subject: Servo back - Check Valve Dumb Question
Greetings all,
Just recieved my servo back from Power Brake Exchange (looks great, fast
service) but I do have a question. They included a check valve for the
vacuum hose and said it should have one. Does'nt appear they (BJ8)
originally did from what I see (although as explained to keep it from
sucking gas into the servo .. it makes sense and I have no quams about
installing it...)
Comments?
Thanks
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8 - Just waiting on the master cylinder now.........
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant at mkg.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 16:19:08 -0600
Subject: RE: Servo back - Check Valve Dumb Question
Hi Jim,
BJ8 servos have a check valve; it's the actual fitting that the hose
connects to. It has a large hex on it and a single barb on the top, looks
like it's made of aluminum. The hose itself does not incorporate a valve.
The problem with the valve is that the guts can fall out, leaving you with
full flow in both directions. I realized that when I found these
mysterious bits upon unscrewing the valve from the booster.
Regards,
Adnan
-----Original Message-----
From: James Sailer [mailto:sailer@srv.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 3:05 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Servo back - Check Valve Dumb Question
Greetings all,
Just recieved my servo back from Power Brake Exchange (looks great, fast
service) but I do have a question. They included a check valve for the
vacuum hose and said it should have one. Does'nt appear they (BJ8)
originally did from what I see (although as explained to keep it from
sucking gas into the servo .. it makes sense and I have no quams about
installing it...)
Comments?
Thanks
Jim Sailer
66 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 18:28:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Valve adjustment Hot vs Cold
Hi, Earle -
Congratulations on getting the BJ8 running again! I set the valves cold.
It's easier on the fingers than doing it hot, and the car runs just fine
that way.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earle Knobloch" <armynavy@gte.net>
To: "Healey Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 5:57 PM
Subject: Valve adjustment Hot vs Cold
>
> Hello all,
>
> My '67 BJ8 runs after being asleep since 1974.....
>
> Please help with the valve adjustment. The manual indicated the valves
> are adjusted COLD but the valve cover tag indicates they adjusted HOT
>
> I have them set at 0.012 COLD, do I now go back and reset them at 0.012
> HOT?????
>
> Thank you,
>
> Earle Knobloch
> Estero, Florida
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 19:14:30 -0400
Subject: New arrival
We trailered the 100 to its new home on sunday . It was relatively easy as
it was only five miles form where we live. I did learn a little of its
history. It was last registered in 1973 when there was a engine failure.
The engine was completely disassembled and that was the way it remained .
I inventoried the engine parts I received and it was a mixture of old
parts,new parts, wrong parts,extra parts and missing parts. As a result of
this combined with my complete lack of knowledge about Healey engines I
have decided to ship it out to a pro. If it was a MG engine I would have
done it myself as I have seen the insided of several of those.
The car itself was left untouched for 28 years until yesterday when I
started pulling various bits and pieces off. The grill, bonnet, doors,
hood, windscreen ,seats and carpets came easily. However, after removing
the carpets and aluminum sill covers I found that the tin worm had done its
thing on the sills and rockers and they were added to my rapidly growing
parts needed list. My biggest problem is figuring out where to put all of
these bits and pieces. I can only hide so much under beds, in the back of
closets, in unused bathtubs etc. oh well!
The obligatory question: What's the trick for separating the painted side
posts from the winscreen frame? I'm afraid to just wack it with a hammer.
Gene
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From deemi at juno.com
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 19:52:46 -0400
Subject: Sheet Metal for early 3000 MKI
Hi,
need a hand,
looking for a good source for metal dog legs sills inner and outer for
the 100/6 early 3000
working on my 59 3000 MKI and I think I have heard of Kilmartin in
Australia as a great original fit
Bob Bowie in Maine
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mark J Bradakis <mjb at autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 17:58:25 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Almost on the road
Killer is on the trailer, the Jeep is almost packed, Karen and I may be ready
to actually hit the road in an hour or so.
For those of you who don't know, the Vintage Triumph Register is holding its
annual convention in Breckenridge, Colorado, and I will be attending. If you
don't know who I am, suffice it to say that the autox.team.net services, like
this list, don't just appear out of thin air by magic, there is a man behind
the curtain, and that man will be gone for a while.
or so. Which means that if something goes awry with the autox.team.nett week
services, like what happened a couple weeks ago when I snuck out of town for
a long weekend, no one will be around to fix it. If list mail stops, the web
pages quit working or whatever, be patient, I will fix it when I get back.
And sending off "Is this thing on?" messages will only make it worse, and
require more time for services to return to normal.
Chances are I'll hear about any outages while at the convention, if possible I
may be able to fix them remotely, we shall see.
mjb.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 17:25:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Need info on Heater Knob Screw
At 1:40 PM -0700 8/21/01, Rohan Marr wrote:
>Hey Guys,
>
>This may be an obscure request but I recently purchased a repro
>heater knob .. the one that slides for the heat and pulls for the
>blower ... well I cannot figure out what screw I need to hold it in
>place. It is tiny and comes up from underneath into the threaded
>lever.
>
>Has anyone got the specs on this and where is a place I could purchase one.
I hope this may help someone else .. I have received a reply from
someone who had just replaced theirs who told me it is a 4-40 screw
1/4" long with an oval head.
Thanks again
Rohan.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Don Yarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 19:57:24 -0500
Subject: Plywood bottom for trunk
Hi Folks:
I am making a new plywood bottom for the trunk of my BN7. I know that it
can't be inserted as one piece and that it has a hinge on one end. Question
is: Does the hinged piece fold down or up? It would seem sturdier if the
hinged piece folded down but I want it to be "original". BTW does anyone
have a piece of armacord big enough to cover this plywood? I have a
passenger side seat frame, bottom and top I will trade for some black
armacord.
Thanks
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 18:24:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Servo back - Check Valve Dumb Question
James -
Having a check valve on the servo hose is particularly
important if you have a diaphram servo, as back-firing
(actually, pre-firing?) through the intake manifold
can cause damage to the diaphram & also the inner
workings of the booster. The BJ8 servo is a little
more sturdy, but nontheless it can still get damage
from repeated backfiring. If power brake exchange has
provided you with a check valve, by all means use it -
it will only serve to protect your system. If
original looks is important to you, I might suggest
you mount it down and away close to the booster so
that you can't see it when you open the engine
compartment.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 22:24:28 -0400
Subject: Fw: Number plate on firewall
It's probably another nit, but calling a BJ8 a "67" or a "66" or a "68" does
not have the same significance for Healeys as it does for American cars. In
the usual American usage, a '67 model for instance belongs to the '67 model
year which can be quite different in configuration in comparison with the
'66 model year cars. A '66 BJ8 is pretty much identical to a '67, with the
only difference relating more to when the car was actually first sold and
registered rather than the manufacturing (or model) year. In the BJ8
registry, both HBJ8L/27050 and HBJ8L/29337 (both built in 1964) are
registered as '67s.
If we're calling those cars actually manufactured in calendar year 1967 the
true '67 cars, then I can say that the earliest car currently documented in
the BJ8 registry with an oval VIN plate is HBJ8L/39603 (built 7 - 8 December
1966), which would make it a late '66 rather than an early '67.
Adnan: HBJ8L/41029 was built 16 - 17 March 1967 and HBJ8L/41083 was built
31 March - 12 April 1967, so I would guess your car was built in March,
rather than May. Ain't it wonderful what can be learned when all the data
is collected together in one place?
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Merchant, Adnan" <Adnan.Merchant@mkg.com>
> To: "'John May'" <jdmay@attglobal.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 5:49 PM
> Subject: RE: Number plate on firewall
>
>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I place my car around May of 1967 and the VIN is 41065. There were a
> > number of cars made after that so I agree, the "last 50" is not
accurate.
> > As to how many '67s had rectangular plates, I can't argue the point.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Adnan
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John May [mailto:jdmay@attglobal.net]
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 2:36 PM
> > To: Merchant, Adnan
> > Cc: 'RanBullard@Clearchannel.com'; healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Number plate on firewall
> >
> >
> > Its a nit, but lest it become "fact" over time, the oval plate only came
> on
> > the
> > late 67's. Probably Very late. At one time the thinking was "last 50
> > cars," but I doubt that. I have owned and seen many 67's that had the
> > rectangular plates.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 22:45:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Plywood bottom for trunk
Don: The hinged section folds up to gain access to the little storage area
for the jack and tool roll. See page 132 and 133 of Roger and Gary's book.
Jim.
BN6, BN7 etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Yarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 8:57 PM
Subject: Plywood bottom for trunk
>
> Hi Folks:
>
> I am making a new plywood bottom for the trunk of my BN7. I know that it
> can't be inserted as one piece and that it has a hinge on one end.
Question
> is: Does the hinged piece fold down or up? It would seem sturdier if the
> hinged piece folded down but I want it to be "original". BTW does anyone
> have a piece of armacord big enough to cover this plywood? I have a
> passenger side seat frame, bottom and top I will trade for some black
> armacord.
>
> Thanks
> Don
> BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 21:39:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Need info on Heater Knob Screw
> Rohan-
I think it's 4-40, but the one on my car is countersunk, with flat head.
Certainly not oval. I'm certain that this is original on my Longbridge BN4.
I'll measure the thread tomorrow to verify.
Regards- Fred Meyer
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 23:27:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear springs
Boy, I'm gonna tell the concours committee!
ron
Rich C wrote:
> >
> They sold me a14 ft. roll of 2" wide black teflon interleaf
> strip material, enough to do both springs,
> Rich Chrysler.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 23:59:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Responses - Assembly Bill 834
Thoughts on the black plate legislation:
1)Cool - that will look great on the Morgan - thanks for letting me know -
Peter Davison
Santa Monica, CA
2)Rick,
Davis vetoed this very same bill last year... . . . . . . . .
3)Besides, what we really want is a bill permitting us to use our authentic
UK plates as the only plates on our cars. I'm tired of putting California
plates in the rear window. - - Kevin Wayne Williams <kww@gte.net>
4)If this Bill becomes law, wouldn't it have the effect of lessening the
value of a "California Black Plate" car. My 68 BGT was a Calif. black
plate, and I probably paid a few extra bucks for that (I still have the
plate). Would you have to question if it was a true CA black plate, or a
Northeastern rust bucket transported there recently to take advantage of
this law? Discussion please..... Steve in NJ
5)Hey Rick,
thanks for this! In general I support this idea, since it ties in nicely
with the older plates in the YOM plate program the DMV runs now. However, I
read the text of the bill and I see that there is not any provision for
presently existing and registered black plates. Since I own 3 cars that
already have the black plates, I am concerned that I will be charged extra
to keep them. This doesn't seem fair when the cars have had them all
along. It wouldn't surprise me if the DMV did this as they have a history
of basically taking as much money as they can at every opportunity.
Normally in the past the YOM program was aimed at licence plate series that
had been retired, which is why the present 1962 cutoff is there. In 1962,
the yellow background plates (1956-62 series) were all replaced by the
black ones. So now, since the black ones have not yet been retired, I am
not sure how they will implement this new idea. But I bet they will find
a way to charge more for it, which kind of bites. I'm tired of paying the
DMV.
>I am writing something along these lines to Gray in Sac.
Marty Ray
Answer:
Dear Marty,
I don't think that this will affect cars that are aleady registered with
black plates - It is just so folks can add correct plates after they were
issued replacement plates after one plate was lost or damaged or after
vanity plates were moved on to another car. They won't be charging for the
leftover blue/gold plates so I don't see how they will be able to charge
for existing black ones. This change in the law will also extend the
inclusion of the yellow/black letter 1956 plates to 1959 - 1962 cars as the
cutoff yearis presently 1958. Cheers, Rick
One Guy actually wrote me:
6)Bullshit. I worked hard to keep the black plates on my two Healeys. I
don't need a law to allow anybody to just go out and buy them.
7)And another accused me of promoting useless legislation!!!
I am not that much of a gun nut, but I was impressed substantially with the
State of California web site in 1999 that advised of the coming (at that
time) State of California ban on SKS rifles. The site made it very clear
that either turn it in prior to 2000, or ship it out of state, or as of Jan
1, 2001 California would use their existing records to come to your home and
"collect" them.
.
I heard about the web site from Mike Reagan on some radio show I heard while
flipping channels while driving. I thought initially it was just some other
interesting, somewhat kooky, web site. I eventually realized it was
actually an official State of California site.
.
I also read about the California ban on 2 stroke boat engines, and the
California requirement to use the gasoline additive that is now found to
contaminate ground water, and the electricity problems in California.
.
Seems like there are several more important items to lobby California
government about than license plates for antique cars.
.
END.
Barry Yodzis <BYodzis@ci.friendswood.tx.us>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 07:16:33 -0400
Subject: Wire Wheel Hub Replacement
List:
I am in the process of rebuilding my front suspension. I had always
understood that replacing the splined hubs for the wire wheels to avoid
damage to new wheels from worn splines was the conventional wisdom. That
was until I priced new front hubs.
Based on the price of the new hubs, I have reexamined the front hubs and
their splines. I can't see any obvious damage to the splines and as far as
I know there isn't any play between the old wheels and the splines, but in a
suspension that needs rebuilding, it isn't easy to say for sure.
What should I do?
Cheers,
John Cope
62BT7 Tricarb
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Art Braundmeier" <abraund at siue.edu>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 06:19:49 -0500
Subject: right_angle drive
Hi folks,
The threads on the male end of my speedometer right_angle drive need to be
dressed. Any suggestions as to where I might buy a die (would like to get the
corresponding tap also) to do the job. The threads look to be 3/4 inch by 36
threads per inch -- but this could be incorrect.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Aug. 22, 2001
Art Braundmeier
HBJ8L/34199
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 07:37:30 -0500
Subject: Antique Auto Battery
Anyone else had dealings w/ Antique Auto Battery in Hudson, OH? I
bought a Lucas "tar top" reproduction battery for my Bugeye Concours
candidate. The battery ($150.00 including shipping) arrived in a timely
manner. I filled it w/ electrolyte, charged it per their instructions
and put it in the Bugeye. Not enough power to run the parking lights
and the horn at the same time. Off to a real battery place where they
load tested it and proclaimed "Junk".
The folks at Antique Auto Battery, while professing innocence, gave
me instructions on returning the defective battery. I did return it, at
their expense, not including the 80 mile round trip to the UPS station.
The "new" battery arrived yesterday. Same drill--fill w/ more
electrolyte, charge per their instructions, and not enough power to pull
a sick hooker off an army cot! I haven't contacted them yet but I
certainly will first thing in the AM! The real battery place load
tested the "new" battery and said that they were tired of testing the
same junk battery!
Anyway, if you're interested, I'll report the results of the phone
call I will make in the morning. I think it's a good thing I bought it
on a credit card--they probably will be the ones arguing w/ Antique
Auto Battery.
Anyone else happy, or not, w/ these folks? I'd be interested in the
results.
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 09:03:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
I love Healeys but that's a sure sign that the economy is ready for a big fall.
Fred Criswell
On Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:16:08 -0700 kirk kvam <62BT7@prodigy.net> wrote:
Subject: Re: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
> Results,
>
> BN7 sold for $42,300
> BJ8 sold for $75,200
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Dr. C Rubino" <ruvino at recorder.ca>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 09:38:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
I have been trying to access the archives for the last two weeks with no
success-any advice?
Carl A. Rubino
ruvino@recorder.ca
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Wood Jr" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 09:32:47 -0400
Subject: Austin-Healey LeMans
Having confirmed to Gene that his car is, in fact, a "Factory LeMans" by
looking at the list I have in my possession from Geoffrey Healey, I also
told Gene to "forget the rules" and paint it whatever color he or his wife
desire, put whatever wire wheels he thinks are safe and enjoy the ride.
By the way, BN2L231450, engine 1B231450, is in Batch 5819 and is Body 13012
for those of you who are keeping his records. Remember, there were a little
over 600 Factory LeMans cars produced out of the approximately 3500 BN2
cars, so one in six of all the BN2 models were Factory LeMans cars...not
that rare when you think of it. Here it is in the year 2001 and they are
still being "found" just down the street!
Have a ball, Gene, and enjoy. By the way, start with the screws at the top
of the windscreen and the bottom of the windscreen to take off the painted
windshield pieces. You might wait a while before disassembling everything;
otherwise, you can come to Massachusetts where I can help you with guidance
as to where all the parts go.
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 09:00:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Antique Auto Battery
I just spoke w/ the folks at Antique Auto Battery. They are
"perplexed" because they filled the battery and load tested it before
they dumped it and shipped it. Who knows what really happened?
Perplexed is not the word I'd use.
What they did do, to their credit, was to offer to ship me a new
battery. Additionally, they are sending me a UPS call slip so I don't
have to drive 40 miles to send the bad one back to them. I'm going to
be out the additional electrolyte, I guess.
"Very rare" was the description used. I'll let you all know what
happens w/ battery no. 3 when it arrives.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 09:17:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
Hi Ron
Don't know about the buyer's premium.
www.christies.com
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 11:11 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
> Kirk:
> was this price including the buyers premium?
> I saw this car for a few minutes. It was very nice but not
> extraordinary in MHO. It looked as thought it was a correct resto.
> The most boring auction ever.
> I was not there when this car came up. I left.
> link to Christy's?
> Ron
>
> kirk kvam wrote:
>
> > Subject: Re: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
> >
> > > Results,
> > >
> > > BN7 sold for $42,300
> > > BJ8 sold for $75,200
> > >
> > > Kirk
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 1:24 PM
> > > Subject: Christies Pebble Beach Auction
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Two Healey's are listed for auction.
> > > >
> > > > 1. 60, BN7L-9217 Estimate $45-55k
> > > >
> > > > 2. 65, BJ8L-30287 Estimate $50-70k
> > > >
> > > > Hang on to your Healeys boys and girls !!!!
> > > >
> > > > Kirk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 10:09:46 -0700
Subject: Fw: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / BJ8 Description
----- Original Message -----
From: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
To: <l-dkirby@home.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / BJ8 Description
> Hi Len,
>
> Can't tell by the picture, looks like your run of the mill BJ8.
>
> The catalog description of the car is "chassis-up nut and bolt re-build to
> the highest standard" (who's standard ??) etc. "Repainted Black from
> original", not stating what was original.
>
> Chassis # H-BJ8-L/30287
> Eng #29K-RU-H/5149
> Dispatched January 1965
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Cheers, Happy Healeying
>
> Kirk
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "l-dkirby" <l-dkirby@home.com>
> To: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 8:12 PM
> Subject: Re: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
>
>
> > Kirk, do you know what the BJ8 looked like, was it a gold level
> > concours? or a works car? Any and all info would be appreciated as I am
> > just getting my 66 BJ8 finished and trying to put a value on it for
> > insurance purposes. Thanks Len 35624
> >
> >
> > kirk kvam wrote:
> > >
> > > Subject: Re: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
> > >
> > > > Results,
> > > >
> > > > BN7 sold for $42,300
> > > > BJ8 sold for $75,200
> > > >
> > > > Kirk
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
> > > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 1:24 PM
> > > > Subject: Christies Pebble Beach Auction
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Two Healey's are listed for auction.
> > > > >
> > > > > 1. 60, BN7L-9217 Estimate $45-55k
> > > > >
> > > > > 2. 65, BJ8L-30287 Estimate $50-70k
> > > > >
> > > > > Hang on to your Healeys boys and girls !!!!
> > > > >
> > > > > Kirk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "AH102" <bluechipracing at snet.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 13:37:27 -0400
Subject: Clutch Release Bearings
Listers:
It seems there are three different clutch release bearings used on the 6 Cyl
Healeys, depending on model. I believe the main difference is the dimension
from the pivot centerline to the carbon bearing face. Does anyone have these
dimensions (or approximations) for the three bearings, and which models they
fit (100-6, early 3000, late 3000)?
Thanks, Jim
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From GMari58175 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 16:15:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Antique Auto Battery
Larry, Where you get these sayings is beyond me. Made me laugh! Anyway, I
went through 3 returns before getting a good one. Filled it with FRESH ACID
etc. and the things been working fine for the past 3 years. Guess it's like
my old Judson..."Just one of those things that wasn't meant to be.
missed you in Lancaster.
george
> Same drill--fill w/ more
> electrolyte, charge per their instructions, and not enough power to pull
> a sick hooker off an army cot!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 17:05:31 EDT
Subject: BJ8 carb question
Hello Listers, I am rebuilding a set of BJ8 carbs for a friend and have found
that the soft material where the choke lever cam contacts is worn out. The
part is the "cam shoe and rod assembly". Not available from Moss, probably is
from Burlen, but does anyone know of a material that can be used to repair
this part. It is probably phenolic (sp?) or possibly leather or similar. It
is worn out (crushed) due to the rod assembly being frozen in the carb body.
Thanks,
John Wright
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 15:41:06 -0700
Subject: Indiana Listers
Would some of the Northern Indiana listers please contact me off the
list. Thanks.
Terry Blubaugh
'60 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 18:41:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Hub Replacement
John -
A couple things to look for:
#1. If the splines on the hub are sharp to the touch,
I personally would replace them with new ones. The
splines on new (or lightly used) hubs are nicely
rounded on the crown of the splines. As the splines
wear, they gradually become sharper to the touch.
#2. Spline angle check - You have to take a good close
look at the splines, (possibly with a magnifying glass
to do this) - if the splines have a different angle
from side to side of each spline - /\ - i.e. one side
shows a more shallow angle than the other - you
definitely should replace the hub. The angle on each
side of the spline, at the very least, should be the
same.
I just hate to see you repeat the experience I had of
ordering brand new chrome 72's only to strip one of
the rear wheel's center hubs 1 year later because I
was originally too cheap to replace the axle hubs with
new ones when I bought the new wire wheels. After
this, I ended up buying all new hubs anyway + paying
an additional couple hundred to fix the stripped hub
on my new chrome wire wheel.
Go buy the new hubs and drive with confidence!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> Based on the price of the new hubs, I have
> reexamined the front hubs and
> their splines. I can't see any obvious damage to
> the splines and as far as
> I know => What should I do?
>
> Cheers,
> John Cope
> 62BT7 Tricarb
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 23:12:31 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 carb question
John,
Sometimes, if you are real lucky and real gentle and that material is not
rotted,
you can take a little ignition-size channel locks (the smallest one, about 3
or 4
inches) and, as lightly as you can, grip the material and rotate it on the
pin 180
degrees until the flat spot is down and the unworn round side is now in
play. A chunk of rubber band between the jaws and the material helps spread
the force and adds traction. In one case where the material was totally
perished I
took the bugger apart and stacked in a bunch of the leather washers that are
used under the back tonneau studs on convertibles, but that was a royal pain
and not really worth the effort, although it worked. It's a hassle because
the brass part and the joint to the metal bar are fairly fragile, so one
mis-step and you are in need of a replacement. I would recommend contacting
Joe Curto
in the east U.S. or Jim Taylor in the west. Either can probably readily
supply
that piece, at least used if not new.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: <Mogfrog1@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 5:05 PM
Subject: BJ8 carb question
>
> Hello Listers, I am rebuilding a set of BJ8 carbs for a friend and have
found
> that the soft material where the choke lever cam contacts is worn out. The
> part is the "cam shoe and rod assembly". Not available from Moss, probably
is
> from Burlen, but does anyone know of a material that can be used to repair
> this part. It is probably phenolic (sp?) or possibly leather or similar.
It
> is worn out (crushed) due to the rod assembly being frozen in the carb
body.
> Thanks,
> John Wright
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 22:22:36 -0500
Subject: BN1 Throttle return spring.
I got my BN1 (built12/23/53) running again tonight following a carb rebuild,
(thanks to Joe Curto),a good distributor cleaning, new plugs, replaced
broken valve spring, new ignition wires and points and plugs. It started
right up but it won't slow down. I have a couple of springs on the bottom
end of the throttle but one goes to the front engine mount and another goes
back towards the wheel well. I would bet there should only be one that
pulls down toward the exhaust manifold. Anybody help me out on where it
should attach on the chassis end?
Mark
Nashville
BN1 150202
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 22:54:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Hub Replacement
John -
A couple things to look for:
#1. If the splines on the hub are sharp to the touch,
I personally would replace them with new ones. The
splines on new (or lightly used) hubs are nicely
rounded on the crown of the splines. As the splines
wear, they gradually become sharper to the touch.
#2. Spline angle check - You have to take a good close
look at the splines, (possibly with a magnifying glass
to do this) - if the splines have a different angle
from side to side of each spline - /\ - i.e. one side
shows a more shallow angle than the other - you
definitely should replace the hub. The angle on each
side of the spline, at the very least, should be the
same.
I just hate to see you repeat the experience I had of
ordering brand new chrome 72's only to strip one of
the rear wheel's center hubs 1 year later because I
was originally too cheap to replace the axle hubs with
new ones when I bought the new wire wheels. After
this, I ended up buying all new hubs anyway + paying
an additional couple hundred to fix the stripped hub
on my new chrome wire wheel.
Go buy the new hubs and drive with confidence!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> Based on the price of the new hubs, I have
> reexamined the front hubs and
> their splines. I can't see any obvious damage to
> the splines and as far as
> I know => What should I do?
>
> Cheers,
> John Cope
> 62BT7 Tricarb
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 22:54:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Hub Replacement
John -
A couple things to look for:
#1. If the splines on the hub are sharp to the touch,
I personally would replace them with new ones. The
splines on new (or lightly used) hubs are nicely
rounded on the crown of the splines. As the splines
wear, they gradually become sharper to the touch.
#2. Spline angle check - You have to take a good close
look at the splines, (possibly with a magnifying glass
to do this) - if the splines have a different angle
from side to side of each spline - /\ - i.e. one side
shows a more shallow angle than the other - you
definitely should replace the hub. The angle on each
side of the spline, at the very least, should be the
same.
I just hate to see you repeat the experience I had of
ordering brand new chrome 72's only to strip one of
the rear wheel's center hubs 1 year later because I
was originally too cheap to replace the axle hubs with
new ones when I bought the new wire wheels. After
this, I ended up buying all new hubs anyway + paying
an additional couple hundred to fix the stripped hub
on my new chrome wire wheel.
Go buy the new hubs and drive with confidence!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> Based on the price of the new hubs, I have
> reexamined the front hubs and
> their splines. I can't see any obvious damage to
> the splines and as far as
> I know => What should I do?
>
> Cheers,
> John Cope
> 62BT7 Tricarb
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 22:56:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Hub Replacement
John -
A couple things to look for:
#1. If the splines on the hub are sharp to the touch,
I personally would replace them with new ones. The
splines on new (or lightly used) hubs are nicely
rounded on the crown of the splines. As the splines
wear, they gradually become sharper to the touch.
#2. Spline angle check - You have to take a good close
look at the splines, (possibly with a magnifying glass
to do this) - if the splines have a different angle
from side to side of each spline - /\ - i.e. one side
shows a more shallow angle than the other - you
definitely should replace the hub. The angle on each
side of the spline, at the very least, should be the
same.
I just hate to see you repeat the experience I had of
ordering brand new chrome 72's only to strip one of
the rear wheel's center hubs 1 year later because I
was originally too cheap to replace the axle hubs with
new ones when I bought the new wire wheels. After
this, I ended up buying all new hubs anyway + paying
an additional couple hundred to fix the stripped hub
on my new chrome wire wheel.
Go buy the new hubs and drive with confidence!
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
> Based on the price of the new hubs, I have
> reexamined the front hubs and
> their splines. I can't see any obvious damage to
> the splines and as far as
> I know => What should I do?
>
> Cheers,
> John Cope
> 62BT7 Tricarb
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From lennart.nystedt at allgon.se
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 07:57:07 +0200
Subject: RE: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
I was searching the Christies site for the word healey and among the itemes
that showed up were two silver cups awarded to "D.M.Healey" during two
different Mille Miglias.
As I recall from one of Donald's books a big part of his prize collection
was stolen from his home during the seventies.
Should we suspect foul play ??????
/Lennart Nystedt
Sweden
-----Original Message-----
From: kirk kvam [mailto:62BT7@prodigy.net]
Sent: den 22 augusti 2001 18:17
To: Ron Rader
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; Editorgary@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
Hi Ron
Don't know about the buyer's premium.
www.christies.com
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
To: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 11:11 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
> Kirk:
> was this price including the buyers premium?
> I saw this car for a few minutes. It was very nice but not
> extraordinary in MHO. It looked as thought it was a correct resto.
> The most boring auction ever.
> I was not there when this car came up. I left.
> link to Christy's?
> Ron
>
> kirk kvam wrote:
>
> > Subject: Re: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
> >
> > > Results,
> > >
> > > BN7 sold for $42,300
> > > BJ8 sold for $75,200
> > >
> > > Kirk
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
> > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 1:24 PM
> > > Subject: Christies Pebble Beach Auction
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Two Healey's are listed for auction.
> > > >
> > > > 1. 60, BN7L-9217 Estimate $45-55k
> > > >
> > > > 2. 65, BJ8L-30287 Estimate $50-70k
> > > >
> > > > Hang on to your Healeys boys and girls !!!!
> > > >
> > > > Kirk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Watson, R D, NPONS" <rwatson at att.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 09:47:20 -0400
Subject: CAUTION: DELETE THIS ID FROM THIS BROADCAST CODE
Please delete the e-mail id rwatson@att.com from this distribution
list. This id is the property of AT&T and is to be used for official AT&T
communications only.
Further messages sent to this e-mail id will result in action from AT&T
Security.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Terry Blubaugh <tblubaugh at earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 07:05:28 -0700
Subject: No Healey Content
Sorry to bomb the list.
Mark Lapierre, please contact me off the list again. Thanks.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 11:26:17 EDT
Subject: Re: right_angle drive
I do not think that you will find a die for that it is probably some odd ball
english thread. We use a universal thread file for cleaning up those threads.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 08:56:33 -0700
Subject: BN1 engine
My workbook illustrations show only flat washers and
nuts for the intake
and exhaust manifolds--can this be true?--no
lockwashers?
Are they held on by rust??
TIA
Lou
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "kirk kvam" <62BT7 at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 10:15:30 -0700
Subject: Christies (Stolen Healey Property)
Hi Lennart,
YES, the two silver cups awarded to Donald and Geoffrey Healey do indeed
appear to be stolen property.
I just had telephone conversation with Margot Healey and she confirms the
fact
that thieves took all of Donald's silver awards during the burglary. She
stated "They knew what they were looking for and these items are most
assuredly part of the theft."
Lennart, Thank you so very much for bringing this to my/our attention.
With this information coming to light, (twenty some years later) maybe the
case can be solved and the return of Healey Racing History.
1948 Mille Miglia
Engraved: AUTOMOBILE CLUB-BRESCIA
XV MILLE MIGILA
2-5-1948
D & G HEALEY SU HEALEY
105.8 Kmph
Offerred at Christies auction Melbourne Australia July 31, 2001,
Lot # 241
Estiimate $6,000 - $8,000 Australian dollars.
Unsold
1951 Mille Miglia
Engraved: AUTOMOBILE CLUB-BRESCIA
XVIII MILLE MIGLIA
1951
VETTURE VELOCI CHIUSE CLASSE OLTRE 2000cc
D. M. HEALEY
Offerred at Christies auction Malbourne Australia July 31, 2001
Lot #240
Estimate $6,000 - $8,000 Australian dollars
Sold: $5,875
Kirk Kvam
62BT7
60BN7
(playing with Healeys since 1961 and retired cop)
----- Original Message -----
From: <lennart.nystedt@allgon.se>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 10:57 PM
Subject: RE: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
>
> I was searching the Christies site for the word healey and among the
itemes
> that showed up were two silver cups awarded to "D.M.Healey" during two
> different Mille Miglias.
> As I recall from one of Donald's books a big part of his prize collection
> was stolen from his home during the seventies.
> Should we suspect foul play ??????
>
> /Lennart Nystedt
> Sweden
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kirk kvam [mailto:62BT7@prodigy.net]
> Sent: den 22 augusti 2001 18:17
> To: Ron Rader
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net; Editorgary@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
>
>
> Hi Ron
>
> Don't know about the buyer's premium.
> www.christies.com
>
> Kirk
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Rader" <rader@interworld.net>
> To: "kirk kvam" <62BT7@prodigy.net>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>; <Editorgary@aol.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 11:11 PM
> Subject: Re: Fw: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
>
>
> > Kirk:
> > was this price including the buyers premium?
> > I saw this car for a few minutes. It was very nice but not
> > extraordinary in MHO. It looked as thought it was a correct resto.
> > The most boring auction ever.
> > I was not there when this car came up. I left.
> > link to Christy's?
> > Ron
> >
> > kirk kvam wrote:
> >
> > > Subject: Re: Christies Pebble Beach Auction / Results
> > >
> > > > Results,
> > > >
> > > > BN7 sold for $42,300
> > > > BJ8 sold for $75,200
> > > >
> > > > Kirk
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "KIRK KVAM" <klkvam@prodigy.net>
> > > > To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 1:24 PM
> > > > Subject: Christies Pebble Beach Auction
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Two Healey's are listed for auction.
> > > > >
> > > > > 1. 60, BN7L-9217 Estimate $45-55k
> > > > >
> > > > > 2. 65, BJ8L-30287 Estimate $50-70k
> > > > >
> > > > > Hang on to your Healeys boys and girls !!!!
> > > > >
> > > > > Kirk
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From foxriverkid at earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 13:40:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Christies (Stolen Healey Property)
Well, it looks like the list can do something productive. It is indeed more than
an anal sounding board for Healey minutia.
I'm sure Christie's missed the point that they were stolen since they have been
too busy trying to keep the upper echelon out of jail for price fixing. My gawd,
they overlooked the obvious and the list caught it. Great job awards to those
experts in automotive minutia who found it.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 12:41:22 -0500
Subject: Nasty Boys Web Site Address
Anybody out there know the web site location for Modified Healeys (a.k.a.,
Nasty Boys)?? Thanks for your help!!
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Mogfrog1 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 14:11:48 EDT
Subject: BJ8 carb question
Hi All, thanks for the tips and advice re: fixing the phenolic roller on the
cam shoe and rod assembly on the HD8 carb. Got some good advice, but best
came from Joe Curto who says to make a new roller out of a piece of throttle
shaft. Drill 1/8" hole and use a 1/8" roll pin to secure. Simple eh?
Thanks and
Cheers,
John Wright
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 14:28:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Nasty Boys Web Site Address
http://modifiedhealeys.ntahc.org/index.html
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 14:29:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch Release Bearings
Hi Jim,
The dimensions from the center of the pivot to the face of the bearing is:
BN1 1.217"
BN2-BN6 1.46"
BT7-BJ7E 1.21"
BJ7L-BJ8 1.60"
Cheers, Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 09:19:53 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1 Throttle return spring.
Mark
Just for completeness one needs to be sure that the choke/jet lowering
return springs are working correctly and that the jets lift correctly.
Sometimes extra springs are added in this area.
However I think that you are describing the throttle return springs.
The correct springs are those that wrap around the butterfly shafts and
the main return spring. It is this main spring that is often not fitted
correctly. It fits between a small bracket fitted towards the rear of
the accelerator rod which runs fore and aft and the bell crank centre
shaft. It is fitted more or less in line with this shaft. Here there
appears to have been two methods of fitting the end of the spring. One
is to use the end of the spring, which has a large loop, instead of the
split/cotter pin which could have held the bell crank in place. There
are a few people who say that they have seen the spring fitted through
the eye of the split pin. This might have been an alternative method but
it is a little difficult to fit.
Just a word of warning the Service Manual shows a drawing of this area
which was not updated to production level.
Having said all this maybe your problem is not shortage of spring power
but worn butterfly shafts or a loose or not centralised butterfly. If
the butterfly catches it may not be able to close enough.
All the best
>
>I got my BN1 (built12/23/53) running again tonight following a carb rebuild,
>(thanks to Joe Curto),a good distributor cleaning, new plugs, replaced
>broken valve spring, new ignition wires and points and plugs. It started
>right up but it won't slow down. I have a couple of springs on the bottom
>end of the throttle but one goes to the front engine mount and another goes
>back towards the wheel well. I would bet there should only be one that
>pulls down toward the exhaust manifold. Anybody help me out on where it
>should attach on the chassis end?
>
>Mark
>Nashville
>BN1 150202
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 16:22:53 EDT
Subject: Re: BJ8 carb question
In a message dated 8/23/01 11:14:07 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Mogfrog1@aol.com writes:
<< roller on the
cam shoe and rod assembly on the HD8 carb >>
If you want the ultimate roller, go to a hobby shop that sells RC race car
motors and get a motor ball bearing. Stake it back where the old roller was.
Don
NTAHC
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ross Maylor" <obiedog at telusplanet.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 15:27:23 -0600
Subject: spot/fog lamp
I have an original Lucas 5 3/4" spot and fog lamp that are in very good
condition except that inside the spot lamp rust has formed near the bottom
of the miirrored surface. The lights work fine but I would like to replace
or repair only this piece.
Anyone know if this piece is available without purchasing the whole
spotlamp?
Or has anyone taken the glass and mirrored dish apart and repaired it
successfully?
Thanks
Ross Maylor
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From healey6 <healey6 at optonline.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 18:51:12 -0400
Subject: Tuning HD6's
With apologies to the List and especially to Roger Moment, I have uncovered
information which contradicts the issue of the slow running valves on HD6's as
noted in the Burlen book which states that they are not to be used when there
is a multiple carb setup.
I recently obtained two original Owners Handbooks on eBay - the first AKD947A
for cars from engine number 48863 (introduction of the 6- port head) which I
put at around October 1957 according to Clausingers book and the second is
actually dated at February 1958 Publication 97H 996J. (The reproduction Owners
Handbook available from Moss, etc. is dated May 1957 and refers to H4 carbs on
engines pre-6 port heads and has fewer pages.)
In any event, the books that I just purchased are very specific in stating that
the slow run valves ARE to be used to set the idle speed. Since these books
were delivered with the cars at time of purchase, it is apparent to me that the
factory procedure then in place differs from what Burlen says and I would
prefer to use the original factory settings, adjustments, etc on the theory
that they probably knew what they were talking about at the time of production.
BTW the original question that started this thread was a sticking Pedal
assembly which was traced to a loose return spring.
John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 18:49:57 EDT
Subject: 100 thermostat
While fixing my cylinder head I discovered that the thermostat installed is
not "correct". That is, it is apparently a conventional one without the
blanking sleeve.
I know we've been around this block before, but I'd like to find out if I
really need to find and install one of the original version thermo's. Does
the sleeve pmerely permit the car to warm up to operating temperature more
quickly, or does it lend additional cooling ability, or both--or neither? My
car warms up quickly enough and does not suffer from high temperature
(usually about 180 when moving) except when stuck in traffic--an auxiliary
electric fan seems to help somewhat although I need to reverse the blade for
maximal efficiency.
What's the scoop?
All advise appreciated--Michael Oritt (100 Lemans)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stella67 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 18:51:13 EDT
Subject: Early 100 fenders - 100M carbs new for sale
Sorry to bomb the list but I have to clean out some extra Healey items so I
can get on with the restoration of my 60 and 62 3000s and thought someone
might need these items.
I have two (1 left and 1 right) early 100 rear fenders (no rear indent line
in the rear) -- both in very good to excellent condition. One has no rust or
dents at all, the other was hit leaving a slight dent (fiberglass repair) and
some dog leg rust, but still a very good fender.
I also have two new carbs for the 100M (I sold the car to a friend before I
finished and he did not want to complete the M mods). These are still in the
box and are new, unused items I purchased while in England about 5 years ago.
These are the real thing and look great.
I'll consider reasonable offers. The fenders I would like to sell as a pair
but might consider splitting them. The carbs only as a pair.
Thanks John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 18:58:23 -0500
Subject: Re: BJ8 carb question
<<Stake it back where the old roller was.>>
Jehus H. Chr*st, Don!!!
There you go talkin' "gibberish" again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<G>
Only folks in Mass. would "understand" "stake"!!!
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Haskell <bhaskell at iquest.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 09:10:21 -0500
Subject: Re: right_angle drive
Art,
I measure 3/4" - 26 on two right angle drives I have. It's the British
Standard Cycle thread. Check with
British Tools & Fastners
2030 Andre Ave.
Los Osos, CA 93402
(805) 528-0418
I can't find my catalog, so I don't know if they have the BSC dies or not. I
have bought BSW/BSF tools from them before.
Art Braundmeier wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> The threads on the male end of my speedometer right_angle drive need to be
> dressed. Any suggestions as to where I might buy a die (would like to get the
> corresponding tap also) to do the job. The threads look to be 3/4 inch by 36
> threads per inch -- but this could be incorrect.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Aug. 22, 2001
> Art Braundmeier
>
> HBJ8L/34199
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 19:09:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: AHCUSA Partnership Program
Hi Team,
Just a note that the Austin-Healey Club USA has just changed the name of its
program for working together with other clubs for mutual benefit. Formerly
called the "Affiliation Program," we have renamed it the "Partnership
Program" to avoid the connotation of participating clubs becoming
"affiliates." In fact, the clubs participating in this program remain fully
independent, and we feel that the name Partnership Program better conveys
that fact.
You can read all about it on our website beginning at:
http://www.healey.org/partnership.shtml
We'd be delighted to work together with more clubs within this simple and
effective program. Please have a look. Thanks!
Cheers,
Reid Trummel
President, Austin-Healey Club USA
http://www.healey.org
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtrummel/
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 19:39:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: BN1 engine
Lou -
Manifolds are typically held on with just enough
torque to keep a nice seal. With large diameter fine
threaded bolts & long brass nuts used on the BN1
manifolds, the tendancy to creep off is minimal to
none.
In addition, lock washers tend to change pressure and
spring force with age (and pressure on the manifold
gasket will lighten with age & use), hold an uneven
level of pressure around the bolt, and as a result
will create a situation where:
1. The torque setting will be innacurate on the
manifold (which is critical for a proper seal) - as
the lock washer will grip the nut during torqueing
process
2. Create a situation where you will have to
repeatedly readjust the torque as the spring force in
the lock washer changes with age, use, & heat.
Even old american cars didn't use lockwashers on
exhaust manifolds for this very reason (like the 289 I
had in my '68 Bronco Sport).
Hope that helps!
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Louis Galper <lgalper1@home.com> wrote:
>
> My workbook illustrations show only flat washers and
> nuts for the intake
> and exhaust manifolds--can this be true?--no
> lockwashers?
>
> Are they held on by rust??
>
> TIA
> Lou
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 23:02:56 -0600
Subject: Coating
The exterior surface of the trunk floor and the bulkhead surface facing into
the differential on my BJ8 appears to have a coating, maybe tar or rubber.
Is this something that may have come from the factory or applied later?
Sid BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 22:29:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Coating
Sid -
There should be no such coating - paint only.
Probably just a combination of grease, oil, tar & good
old fashioned dirt.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
>
> The exterior surface of the trunk floor and the
> bulkhead surface facing into
> the differential on my BJ8 appears to have a
> coating, maybe tar or rubber.
> Is this something that may have come from the
> factory or applied later?
> Sid BJ8
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 01:54:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Clutch Release Bearings
A BJ7E is an Early BJ7 as opposed to a BJ7L ate. Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Martin Gschwend" <gschwend at projektdesign.at>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 13:10:02 +0200
Subject: Looking for Spares - who can help me?
Hello community!
I am looking for some spares for the restoration of my BJ8 Phase 1. Please
watch
http://212.236.211.5/healey
to see what I am looking for and contact me If you have and sell these
spares..
cu, Martin
(martin@gschwend.at)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mr. Finespanner" <MisterFinespanner at prodigy.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 06:52:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Coating
Sid,
That is factory undercoating. I don't know exactly when BMC started
doing it, but I know it was applied to BJ8's as early as 1965. It was
put on over the color coat.
Doug Reid, 18G Motorworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 1:02 AM
Subject: Coating
>
> The exterior surface of the trunk floor and the bulkhead surface facing
into
> the differential on my BJ8 appears to have a coating, maybe tar or
rubber.
> Is this something that may have come from the factory or applied later?
> Sid BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 07:42:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: CANCELED! - PALO ALTO BRITISH MEET
THE 2001 PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET - CANCELED!!!
Dear California British car enthusiasts,
It is with an extremely heavy heart that we have to inform you that the
23rd Annual Palo Alto British Car Meet, scheduled for Sept. 9th, is being
canceled for this year. On August 20th, Caltrans, the California State
highway board, informed the City of Palo Alto department of Parks &
Recreation that they would be tearing up the El Camino Real and closing off
El Camino Park from the street starting Sept. 1st. As the park is backed by
railroad tracks and their are no other entrances that could handle 600+
cars or trailers and equipment, there seems no way around the certain chaos
and confusion and we have opted for cancellation.
There was no way to comfortably use the park and little time to relocate
the meet (barely enough time to cancel it!) we have been forced to cancel
the Sunday car show. We will be back next year, possibly with a new
location. We are truly sorry and hope that you understand this unfortunate
turn of events. Please tell all of your British car owning friends so we
don't have a bunch of people show up to an empty park.
Sincerely,
Rick Feibusch & The British Car Meet Staff
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop1" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 08:26:57 -0700
Subject: Re: CANCELED! - PALO ALTO BRITISH MEET
What an incredibly disappointing and crappy bit of news. I've been looking
forward to this meet for 2 years. I just cannot believe that Caltrans
couldn't coordinate their efforts with Palo Alto in a more intelligent way.
What am I saying, it's Caltrans!
Coop ('66BJ8)
> THE 2001 PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET - CANCELED!!!
>
> Dear California British car enthusiasts,
>
> It is with an extremely heavy heart that we have to inform you that the
> 23rd Annual Palo Alto British Car Meet, scheduled for Sept. 9th, is being
> canceled for this year. On August 20th, Caltrans, the California State
> highway board, informed the City of Palo Alto department of Parks &
> Recreation that they would be tearing up the El Camino Real and closing
off
> El Camino Park from the street starting Sept. 1st. As the park is backed
by
> railroad tracks and their are no other entrances that could handle 600+
> cars or trailers and equipment, there seems no way around the certain
chaos
> and confusion and we have opted for cancellation.
>
> There was no way to comfortably use the park and little time to relocate
> the meet (barely enough time to cancel it!) we have been forced to cancel
> the Sunday car show. We will be back next year, possibly with a new
> location. We are truly sorry and hope that you understand this unfortunate
> turn of events. Please tell all of your British car owning friends so we
> don't have a bunch of people show up to an empty park.
>
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Rick Feibusch & The British Car Meet Staff
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 09:34:00 -0600
Subject: Re: Coating
Thank you all,
Had I done my required reading the answer is on page 142 paragragh 4 of Gary
and Rogers tome. Flintkote was brushed on undersides ---.
Sid BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2001 11:02 PM
Subject: Coating
>
> The exterior surface of the trunk floor and the bulkhead surface facing
into
> the differential on my BJ8 appears to have a coating, maybe tar or
rubber.
> Is this something that may have come from the factory or applied later?
> Sid BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ian Nelson <ian at Remedy.COM>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 10:23:51 -0700
Subject: FW: CANCELED! - PALO ALTO BRITISH MEET
CANCELED! - PALO ALTO BRITISH MEET
Could the various British car clubs take it upon themselves to organize an
"unofficial" meet?
Has anyone ever done this without upsetting the local police/residents?
How about taking up a corner of the Stanford mall parking lot? It is just
across the street from the park that the official meet was to take place in
and is enormous. Of course Stanford probably would not want parking spaces
taken away from paying customers....
Or could the Saturday Brunch tour that is organized by British Car magazine
be turned into a show as well as a tour?
I was really looking forward to seeing some of the local cars....
Ian Nelson
1958 BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: rfeibusch@loop.com [mailto:rfeibusch@loop.com]
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 7:24 AM
Subject: CANCELED! - PALO ALTO BRITISH MEET
THE 2001 PALO ALTO BRITISH CAR MEET - CANCELED!!!
Dear California British car enthusiasts,
It is with an extremely heavy heart that we have to inform you that the
23rd Annual Palo Alto British Car Meet, scheduled for Sept. 9th, is being
canceled for this year.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 14:20:57 EDT
Subject: Re: 100 thermostat
The 100/4 cylinder head design does not require the special thermostat. It is
only for the 6 cylinder healey that has the water bypass built into the
cylinder head.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 17:04:22 -0400
Subject: BJ8 Driver's Handbook
Hello, Healeyphiles!
While at the Healey Encounter recently, I found an original BJ8 driver's
handbook for sale by a vendor. Unfortunately, the book did not identify the
VIN of the car it belonged to, but it did have a couple names and key
numbers written inside. The key numbers given were FS.877 and next to that
to the right was FS.905 and to the right of that was IGNITION. I'm assuming
that the FS.905 number then was the ignition key number.
The first name written in the book was Gillian Audry (or Andry) and the date
4 August 65. Another name under that was Tom Mandt.
If anybody recognizes any of the above as applying to their BJ8, please
contact me. I only have one car listed in the BJ8 registry at the moment
with a key number of FS.877, but it would be an ignition key, and the
history back to 1972 does not include either of the names above.
Thanks, and Happy Healeying!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 18:25:38 -0700
Subject: Looking for my first car
Dear Healeyists-
I thought I'd throw this out, to see what happens:
I'd love to know the whereabouts of my first car, a '59 100 Six, BN4 LO
73906. I sold it to a fellow named Bob Estes, near Granite City, IL,
exactly 20 years ago, 1981. He was planning to restore the car
then....it was orange over white when I sold it. I've always wondered
what happened to it.
Likewise, I'm trying to track the origins and history of my current
Healey. The BMHT certificate says it arrived in US at Los Angeles.
This car was built August '57, BN4 LS 46134. It was last owned by a
fellow named Bernard Poche, in the SF Bay area. The car was originally
black, then painted white, and now has a terrible metallic brown over
tan theme (not for much longer I hope!).
Anyone have any clues? Much appreciated.
Fred Meyer
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john spaur <jmsdarch at infoasis.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 17:51:13 -0700
Subject: OD throttle switch adjustment
Hi all,
I know that overdrives have been discussed recently but I did not see an
answer to my current problem. The OD works fine but I am wondering how to
adjust the OD throttle switch.
When I flip the dash switch the OD immediately turns off with out the
throttle blip feature.
Would adjusting the lever arm on the OD throttle switch correct this?
If so would I adjust it up or down?
As always, help from the list on this question would be appreciated very much.
TIA
John
'62 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 20:28:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Looking for my first car x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
<<I'd love to know the whereabouts of my first car, a '59 100 Six, BN4 LO
73906. I sold it to a fellow named Bob Estes, near Granite City, IL,
exactly 20 years ago, 1981. >>
Fred:
You need to ask John Thousand of Gateway Chapter - AHCA. Don't have his
info handy but Gateway does have a web site.
Best.......
Ed
'63 BJ-7 (Hortense THE Healey)
Founding Member & Delegate, ILLINI Chapter - AHCA (20+ years)
Member, AHCUSA
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL
www.justbrits.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jerry Wall <jwbn6 at iopener.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 21:58:03 -0500
Subject: Fwd: OD throttle switch adjustment
----------- Original Message -----------
From: Jerry Wall <jwbn6@iopener.net>
Sent To: jmsdarch@infoasis.com
Subject: Re: OD throttle switch adjustment
Date Sent: 24 Aug 2001 09:19 PM
hi john-
the shop manual covers the od throttlel switch adjustment.
happy healeying,
jerry
john spaur wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I know that overdrives have been discussed recently but I did not see an
> answer to my current problem. The OD works fine but I am wondering how to
> adjust the OD throttle switch.
>
> When I flip the dash switch the OD immediately turns off with out the
> throttle blip feature.
>
> Would adjusting the lever arm on the OD throttle switch correct this?
>
> If so would I adjust it up or down?
>
> As always, help from the list on this question would be appreciated very much.
>
> TIA
> John
> '62 BT7
>
> //--------- End Original Message ---------
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 20:19:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Coating
Wow.... I stand corrected! I thought undercoats
weren't used on ANY healey.
Cheers,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- bronson <bron@rmci.net> wrote:
>
> Thank you all,
> Had I done my required reading the answer is on page
> 142 paragragh 4 of Gary
> and Rogers tome. Flintkote was brushed on
> undersides ---.
> Sid BJ8
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
> To: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2001 11:02 PM
> Subject: Coating
>
>
> >
> > The exterior surface of the trunk floor and the
> bulkhead surface facing
> into
> > the differential on my BJ8 appears to have a
> coating, maybe tar or
> rubber.
> > Is this something that may have come from the
> factory or applied later?
> > Sid BJ8
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 23:07:41 -0700
Subject: BN1 engine
We recently started our newly rebuilt engine.
Sounds great !, but we see water oozing out of rocker pedestal #2.
Any suggestions that don't involve disassembly ??
Head magna fluxed, block and head surfaced etc.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 07:51:33 -0600
Subject: Fw: Basil still needs your help!
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 10:21 PM
Subject: Basil still needs your help!
> Ok folks, your humble forum administrator is starting to get a bit
depressed. I started the British Car Forum after hanging out on the
Corvette forum and seeing what a blast people were having exchanging
technical info, tips, or just plain shooting the breeze with other Vette
enthusiasts. I belong to some "email lists" which are nice, but there was a
certain synergy the Vette guys had via their forum. So, I thought, "gee,
why not start one for British Cars?" After realizing (to my amazement
frankly) that the URL name "britishcarforum" was actually available, I
snatched up the name, the web space and bought the same software the
Corvetteforum was using. I spent about a month designing and setting up
"British Car Forum." Finally, on Christmas Day 2000, I turned on the
lights and the BritishCarForum was born. I placed the URL in every search
engine I could, got reciprocal links from vendors and other club sites, and
awaited the members to flock to the site. I have !
> even purchased a couple of ads in British Car Magazine. Unfortunately,
members have not exactly "flocked" to the site - more like dribbled in
actually. But we are up over 210 members now, which is sort of ok, but not
great.
> The problem is that, while there are lot of folks registered as
members, there are scant few of you who actually post in the forums. In
fact, of the 210-plus members registered, only about a dozen or so have ever
posted even a single message. This has me baffled quite honestly, and
that's why I'm writing. You see I have no ulterior motive for running the
forum. I am paying for it out of my own hide for one reason and that is to
help promote the love of great little British Sports Cars (and not so-sporty
British Cars), but as you can probably tell, I am getting frustrated by the
lack of interest. Am I just expecting too much too soon? I don't know, I
just know that the British Car Forum could be a great place if the activity
level would just pick up a bit. I think it might be one of those "catch 22"
things: people don't post because they don't see much activity, and there
isn't much activity because people don't post! I've also had people tell me
"I'm more comfortab!
> le with mailing lists." (and we all know how hard it is to brake old
habits). But what to do?
> I have tried to make the site layout as simple and easy to navigate as
possible, but if there is something about the forum that needs improvement,
please let me know, as I am open to suggestions (but post them on the forum,
don't send me email)!
> So there you have it. Basil is looking for ways to make the forum a
better place and to increase the level of posting activity by the members.
I'm turning to you for suggestions.
>
> If you made it this far, thanks for listening to me whine,
> Basil
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "M.E. & E.A. Driver" <edriver at sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 12:20:57 -0500
Subject: Ethanol/Gasoline mixtures
Hi Lads
Does anyone know whether or not the mixture of ethanol and
gasoline marketed by some of the oil companies has any affects
(positive or negative) on the fuel system components,
performance, etc.?
Kind regards
Ed
Saskatoon
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at kscable.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 20:08:15 -0500
Subject: Water Pump Question
Does anyone know if this water pump will work on a 100-4. Looks the same. I
have never seen a 100-6 or 3000 water pump close up. What are the differences?
On the box it indicates that it will fit an Austin A90, thinking that the A90
used the same motor as the 100-4 I figured it might work.
Steve Galyean
Topeka, KS
55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Galyean" <sgalyean at kscable.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 20:12:53 -0500
Subject: Water Pump Question-#2
Sorry, forgot the link below in the first post.
Does anyone know if this water pump will work on a 100-4. Looks the same. I
have never seen a 100-6 or 3000 water pump close up. What are the differences?
On the box it indicates that it will fit an Austin A90, thinking that the A90
used the same motor as the 100-4 I figured it might work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=594636817
Steve Galyean
Topeka, KS
55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 19:26:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: PALO ALTO SATURDAY TOUR IS STILL ON!!!!
Dear British Car Enthusiast,
While the Palo Alto British Car Meet show on Sunday has been cancelled, the
British Car Magazine folks (Gary & Genie Anderson) will continue to host
the "Tour to the Sea" drive on Saturday Sept 8, 2001. This will be an
informal drive from our office parking lot in Los Altos, over the coastal
mountains to Half Moon Bay via back roads. The drive should take under 2
hours and there are several interesting places to stop. The tour ends at
Cameron's Restaurant and Pub on Hwy 1 just south of Half Moon Bay. This
will be a relaxed
gathering with dining in the pub, not outside - Cameron's has a wide
selection of British beers and the usual burgers, sandwiches, salads, etc.
The parking lot is large, so it makes a great place to stop, look atthe
cars & visit with friends.
Tourers will get route instructions and a map at the start of the drive.
Arrive any time between 9AM and 10 AM - be prepared to leave for the drive
within 15 minutes of your arrival - we try to send a few cars out at a time
to avoid bunching - Cameron's does not open until 11:30 anyway.
DIRECTIONS TO START
Office parking lot: The Altos Center, 360 So San Antonio Road - between &
behind the CalFed Bank and the 76 Gas station at the corner of Whitney &
San Antonio. Our location is 1 block off of Foothill Expy (from 280 take
El Monte Rd exit, left @ Foothill, right onto San Antonio). From 101 take
the Los Altos exit (San Antonio Road) (head west, "away from bay") and go
about 3.7 miles. Heads up: When you see the "Banderas Restaurant" on the
right, get ready to turn right at Whitney - parking lot is just past the
mailbox on
left side.
PLEASE LET THE BRITISH CAR MAGAZINE STAFF KNOW IF YOU ARE PLANNING TO
ATTEND THE TOUR!
We can't reserve space at the restaurant, but Cameron still will need to
know approx. how many people will invade his pub!! To sign up:
Call: 650 949 9680 or
email: Adrienne@Britishcar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CIAG6 at aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 23:31:18 EDT
Subject: Re: OD throttle switch adjustment
First thing I'd check is to see if maybe the throttle switch is wired in
correctly or maybe has been bypassed. It's not uncommon for the throttle
switch to have been intentionally bypassed in order to get the immediate
response to the overdrive switch that you mentioned.
Ray G
Colorado
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 01:26:31 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 engine
Yes the rocker studs go into the water jackets in the head. All that you need
to di is remove the rocker assy and studs , then re install the studs using
some thread sealer.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 00:26:23 -0500
Subject: TEST
Just testing if I'm sending or not.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From hspethmann at t-online.de (Achim Spethmann)
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 15:08:10 +0200
Subject: Spark problem BJ8
Hi group,
for the third time after about 200 miles, the car suddenly lost power and the
cause was a black burned spark in cylinder three. The other sparks look
fine. After changing the spark, the engine runs fine without any
suspicious noise.
Though I have a six pack of sparks, I think there must be a better way to solve
the problem, than changing spark No. 3 every 200 miles.
The sparks (in all cylinders) are NGK BPR6ES
Any hints, what I have to check?
Achim, Germany
1964 HBJ8/L 27347
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 09:47:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Water Pump Question-#2
Very hard to tell Steve,
The QH list of applications is very wrong as it contains a mix of 6 and
4 cylinder engines which used different pumps.
I would suggest that you ask the vendor if the pump has 3 mounting stud
holes in a triangular pattern. If it does it is probably a 4 cyl one.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Krazy Kiwi <magicare at home.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 09:48:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Water Pump Question-#2
Upon further examination of the pump photo I'm pretty sure it is for a 6
cyl.
--
Regards,
Michael Salter
www.precisionsportscar.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Ed Adams" <JE.Adams at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 11:55:55 -0400
Subject: Previous Owners
I have two names of gentlemen who are confirmed once owners of my BN-1 that
I'd like to talk to if possible:
Does any one out there know Harold E. Bergen once of Oakland, CA and his
current address and/or phone #.
Also, Ewing Haley, ex-Memphis, TN from whom I purchased the car in '87.
There are two additional names in the Service Manual that came with the car:
Doug Berfen, Oakland, CA and Christopher J Komar, Berkley, CA. Both of
these are dated 1969. These gentlemen may or may not have been involved
with this particular car. I'd like to contact them to find out.
I've tried writing to all of these and had the letters returned so the
addresses are not currently valid.
Please reply off list.
Thanks for your help,
Ed A
BN-1 227550
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From David Woerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 10:43:47 -0500
Subject: Thanks and......
Thanks for responding to my TEST message.......things have been weird
around here. All is well now.
I'm off to a local "Wings and Wheels" show at the Burlington aerodrome;
if you're close come on down; I just remembered it myself.....thought
it was next weekend.....duh.
Cheers,
Dave
59:{)
59 MGA 1500
Burlington WI
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 12:04:03 EDT
Subject: Austin Healey Coffee Mugs
Start your day out right with a cup of coffee in an Austin Healey Coffee Mug!
The Bluegrass Austin Healey Club has commissioned the famous pottery
manufacturer, Louisville Stoneware, to produce a unique Austin Healey coffee
mug featuring Healey logos.
Check it out at <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/BluegrassClubMugs.html";>Austin-Healey
Mugs</A>
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 12:46:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark problem BJ8
Check your compresions and plug wires for high resistance.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 10:27:04 -0700
Subject: Octane conspiracy?
I've noticed the last few times I've tanked-up that 92 octance fuel is becoming
less
available, with 91 octane being the highest rated. In several instances the
"92" sticker
has been plastered over with a "91."
While I have neither heard nor read anything announcing this
change-for-the-worst, I suspect
this may be related to the MTBE/ethanol controversy. Does anyone have any
definitive
knowledge about this? It seems this is being "put over" on the public without
any publicity
or discussion. Maybe not a big deal, but if you have cars (Healeys) that
barely run on 92,
you may have a bigger problem with 91.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dennis Broughel <brougheldp at earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 13:30:11 -0400
Subject: Fall Festival
listers:
This labor day weekend is the Fall Festival, Vintage sports car racing
at the Lime Rock, Connecticut road course. If you are in the north east
this weekend (Fri-Sat &Mon, no sunday racing) and can spend a day at the
track , you will be treated to terrific racing with beautiful vintage
automobiles in the scenic eastern Connecticut country side. There will
be a few of our own Northeast region healey racers competing. Be sure to
stop at the AHCA Northeast regions tent and say hello
Dennis Broughel
Bn-4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 19:42:24 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1 engine
Louis
The stud holes in the top of the head are normally blind. on early 4
cylinder heads prior to BN1 there was an Austin 16/A70 head which had
5/16" diameter rocker cover studs. These were in holes that went right
through into the water gallery. This gave problems similar to yours. The
fix was to remove the studs, use a (now obsolete) sealing compound and
replace the studs.
Later the heads were modified to have all blind holes.
However it is not unknown for a leak to appear below a stud due,
presumably, to some inperfection in the casting. Removing the rocker
shaft assembly (not too painful) then the stud and adding some jointing
substance should do the trick.
All the best
>
>We recently started our newly rebuilt engine.
>Sounds great !, but we see water oozing out of rocker pedestal #2.
>Any suggestions that don't involve disassembly ??
>
>Head magna fluxed, block and head surfaced etc.
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 11:58:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Octane conspiracy?
Nope, our elevation hasn't changed, a couple of earthquakes notwithstanding :)
91 octane max
has been the norm in Utah and some other "western" states for awhile, but we've
generally
been able to get 92 in California, except in some out-of-the-way places which
only carry
regular (87 octane) or medium grade (89).
This is a recent phenomena. There have been no annoncements to my knowledge.
Just,
all of a sudden, "Premium" is a little less premium. They're phasing MTBE out
of the
formulation, and the oil companies are loathe to use ethanol. The oil
companies maintain
they can formulate "high" octane without either, but it may not be practical to
formulate 92
without reconfiguring their refineries (just a guess).
What bugs me is it looks like this is a stealth change, with everybody figuring
no one will
notice (or care). Then again, there may be a major controversy raging but
everybody just
wants to talk about Gary Condit :(
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brad Weldon" <brad at bradw.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 13:00:23 -0700
Subject: RE: Previous Owners
Hi Ed,
I found 12 matches at peoplesearch (yahoo.com) for Harold Bergen, maybe one
is yours...
http://phone.people.yahoo.com/py/psPhoneSearch.py?FirstName=Harold&LastName=
Bergen
And 2 matches for Chris Komar:
http://phone.people.yahoo.com/py/psPhoneSearch.py?FirstName=Chris&LastName=K
omar
I didn't find any matches for Ewing Haley or Doug Berfen.
I replied ON list because I wanted to educate the Healey masses of this
internet technology and show how easy it is to use.
Hope you find your PO.
Brad Weldon
BN1 [123456]
http://bradw.com/
> I have two names of gentlemen who are confirmed once owners of my
> BN-1 that
> I'd like to talk to if possible:
>
> Does any one out there know Harold E. Bergen once of Oakland, CA and his
> current address and/or phone #.
>
> Also, Ewing Haley, ex-Memphis, TN from whom I purchased the car in '87.
>
> There are two additional names in the Service Manual that came
> with the car:
> Doug Berfen, Oakland, CA and Christopher J Komar, Berkley, CA. Both of
> these are dated 1969. These gentlemen may or may not have been involved
> with this particular car. I'd like to contact them to find out.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Bridger" <RBridger01 at mediaone.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 16:51:51 -0400
Subject: Spark problem BJ8
Achim,
If at the time of your power loss you have a trail of white smoke out the
exhaust, you may want to look at your rockershaft assembly. Remove the valve
cover and start your engine. If the oil is rapidly flowing out of any of the
rockers or between the rocker and the shaft, you may need to rebush the rocker
arms. Normally you should see only a slight trickle from each rocker. If it
is more than a trickle, the oil flow at high speeds will build up in the valve
cover and be sucked into the rear carb through the breather pipe.
Bob
BJ-7, BJ-8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 18:28:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark problem BJ8
<<<<you may want to look at your rockershaft assembly. Remove the valve
cover and start your engine. >>>>
Excellent advice and that is the correct way to do it. I just wanted to add
that it can create a mess if the rocker shaft is bad. As a first step I've
found you can often just remove the oil filler cap and see a geyser when the
rocker is bad and it will be obvious replacement is required. That method
will keep your engine bay cleaner. If in doubt proceed further and remove the
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Check out the new Austin Healey Coffee Mugs at <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/BluegrassClubMugs.html";>Austin-Healey
Mugs</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 21:29:58 EDT
Subject: Austin Healey Coffee Mugs
Wow!! I had a few people email and say that the link to the coffee mugs would
not work so I checked it out. It does work but this page has received over
200 hits in it's first hours tonight!
That many requests just overwhelms our clubs cheap AOL (meaning free) web
page service. You can reach it through the Bluegrass site at
bluegrassclub.com, the Healey adventure site at jamesfwerner.com or use the
hyperlink below that works everywhere but it Hinsdale, IL
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Check out the new Austin Healey Coffee Mugs at <A
HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/bluegrassclub/BluegrassClubMugs.html";>Austin-Healey
Mugs</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 19:23:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Water Pump Question-#2
Steve -
Hate to tell you this, but it appears to me that will
not fit a 100/4. It looks like a 6 cylinder pump to
me.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Steve Galyean <sgalyean@kscable.com> wrote:
>
> Sorry, forgot the link below in the first post.
>
> Does anyone know if this water pump will work on a
> 100-4. Looks the same. I
> have never seen a 100-6 or 3000 water pump close up.
> What are the differences?
> On the box it indicates that it will fit an Austin
> A90, thinking that the A90
> used the same motor as the 100-4 I figured it might
> work.
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=594636817
>
> Steve Galyean
> Topeka, KS
> 55 BN1
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 07:58:59 EDT
Subject: catch in the clutch
Hi listers:
thought I'd tap the brain trust for some ideas. My BJ8 developed a catch in
the clutch pedal theother day. You can feel something resist the pedal every
now and then, sometimes on the down stroke, sometimes on the up stroke -
almost stopping the pedal from returning, but not quite. It happens
intermitently and doesn't seem to happen consistently at the same place in
the stroke. I first thought the MC had a problem so I rebuilt it, but the
problem still exists. When It happens, the noise associated with it seems to
be coming from the pedal box are. I considered that it could be in the
clutch or SC so crawled under while my son pumped the pedal, but the sound
did not seem to be in the bell housing. When I disconnect the MC from the
pedal, the pedal moves smoothly with no catch or noise, but of course there
is no pressure from the MC. Any suggestions? Anyone else ever have this
problem?
TIA
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 06:11:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: catch in the clutch
John -
Is your connecting pin for the clutch pedal to master
cylinder worn out? If it is heavily worn, it can take
the shape of a sort of a crankshaft - and the uneven
shape can interfere with the smooth operation of the
clutch..... (it should be just cylindrical shaped) ...
just an odd thought.
Also... how old is your rubber hose to the slave
cylinder? maybe it has a worn lining?
Just some random thoughts, hope it helps.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- BANJOJOHN@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi listers:
>
> thought I'd tap the brain trust for some ideas. My
> BJ8 developed a catch in
> the clutch pedal theother day. You can feel
> something resist the pedal every
> now and then, sometimes on the down stroke,
> sometimes on the up stroke -
> almost stopping the pedal from returning, but not
> quite. It happens
> intermitently and doesn't seem to happen
> consistently at the same place in
> the stroke. I first thought the MC had a problem so
> I rebuilt it, but the
> problem still exists. When It happens, the noise
> associated with it seems to
> be coming from the pedal box are. I considered that
> it could be in the
> clutch or SC so crawled under while my son pumped
> the pedal, but the sound
> did not seem to be in the bell housing. When I
> disconnect the MC from the
> pedal, the pedal moves smoothly with no catch or
> noise, but of course there
> is no pressure from the MC. Any suggestions?
> Anyone else ever have this
> problem?
>
> TIA
>
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye
> '65 BJ8
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
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/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 09:22:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Spark problem BJ8
In my experience rocker shaft problems cause oiling of #4, 5 & 6
cylinders because the rocker cover breather vents to the rear air
filter.
Am I missing something?
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 06:18:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Octane conspiracy?
Chris,
WRT:
> Sorry if I'm mistaken (excuse my toungue in cheek response....) - but wasn't
> it basically California which has imposed this whole Unleaded petrol/
> catalytic convertor crap on the rest of the planet??????
Yep, if I'm not mistaken (I have been before :). But removing lead was
probably for the
best, even if we haven't found a suitable replacement.
The real "irony" is that the substitute octane booster, methyl tertiary butyl
ether (MTBE)
was endorsed by the US Environmental Protection Agency, even though it's
apparently
been known for a long time that it causes cancer and has a huge potential for
contaminating
groundwater.
I didn't mean to resurrect the old octance/additive/VSR issue, I just though it
was kind
of fishy that the octane level dropped without any sort of announcement or
discussion.
I strongly suspect it has something to do with the oil companies reformulating
without
using ethanol, which is another highly-charged political issue. There are a
lot of midwestern
corn growers, and one HUGE agro-conglomerate (ADM) who stand to benefit
enormously
from the (mandated) use of ethanol. Ethanol has its own set of potential
problems for cars,
especially older ones.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
> Hi Bob,
>
> Sorry if I'm mistaken (excuse my toungue in cheek response....) - but wasn't
> it basically California which has imposed this whole Unleaded petrol/
> catalytic convertor crap on the rest of the planet?????? And now
> Californians are stuck with 91 octane???
>
> My advice? http://www.4x4tuff.com/proddetail?catid=34&prodid=73
> or http://www.kemcooil.com/fueladditives.html
>
> Here in Australia - we are just stuck with unleaded - but at least we can
> get 98 octane stuff - but it costs around $A1 per litre - or $US2.10 per
> gallon - or 70 cents US per gallon more than you pay now.... and it doesn't
> solve the valve seat recession issue!! This additive - from what I've read -
> is relatively cheap & effective!!!!!!!!
>
> While you can actually still buy TEL as an additive - use it!! Its the only
> additive which history has proven works!!!
>
> Best regards
>
> Chris
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From rfeibusch at loop.com (Richard Feibusch)
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 07:44:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re:PALO ALTO CANCELATION
Dear Healey folks,
We would like to thank all of you who responded for your kind words,
thoughts and suggestions for alternative locations. We hope to be back at
El Camino Park in Palo Alto next year and better than ever. We are even
thinking about in the spring if the park is finished and available. There
are also a number of other venues that need to be investigated in the event
that the facility will not be usable.
Stanford Shopping Center is part of the problem, The complete intersection
that connected their car park with El Camino Park is now gone and the
section of car park at the El Camino Real is rendered useless because it is
torn up and filled with earthmoving equipment. Spectators would have no
convienent place to park as well. The Palo Alto Police were concerned that
there would be no place to stage 600+ cars as it took the estimated 2 1/2
hours to get them on the field through a pedestrian access, and were part
of the reason that we still didn't try to use the now empty park.
There was also a question of how we were going to get trailers and catering
equipment through the narrow walkways - so many questions that we just HAD
to pull the plug. The Train station could have served as an entrance but
then there would be limited place for exits and there was no time to get
the access and liability issues sorted out with them. All of us are just
sick about this.
El Camino Park has been a wonderful spot for the last 23 years and there is
no reason to think that it won't be just as good, if not better, when the
work is finished. We will keep you posted.
As for the Saturday tour, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE contact the British Car
Magazine office and let them know if you plan to attend the tour as this
could get REALLLLLLY out of hand if (read as serious police issues!) too
many cars show up and clog the roads and Cameron's car park. If you Healey
GUYZ want to set something smaller up with a resturant, that would be great
but please don't invade anywhere without notice.
Thanks,
Rick Feibusch and the British Car Meet Staff
This was the most unusual response:
A century and a half later, we still fight our war with the Californios. Oh
well, perhaps it was not the original alignment of El Camino Real anyway.
Now there will probably a thousand mysterious Hillman Imps looking for a
place to party.
Jeffrey.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 11:03:11 EDT
Subject: Re: catch in the clutch
Check for any wear in the clevis pin, pedal hole and push rod on the master
cylinder they are a common wear spot that is overlooked. The holes are usualy
worn oblong and the pins usualy have two grooves worn in them where the push
rod sits.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 11:09:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark problem BJ8
When you have a plug that is fouled black that is usualy from gas or an
ignition miss. Also when looking at the exhaust the color of the smole will
tell you a lot .
white smoke Water or brake fluid
blue smoke Oil
Black smoke Gas/ Rich mixture
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 11:12:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Octane conspiracy?
> Yep, if I'm not mistaken (I have been before :). But removing lead was
probably for the
> best, even if we haven't found a suitable replacement.
>
You can't convince me about this. I just spent $1000 to rebuild the fuel
injection pump on my Yanmar 50 HP diesel engine that has less than 200 hours
on it. And, yes, I did use the manufacturer's recommended lubricity
additive!
Lee Mairs
'62 BT7 Tri-carb
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark.
Professionals built the Titanic.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 09:20:49 -0600
Subject: AN5 for sale
I met a kind Healey club member on my trip back from points North, who
mentioned that he had a 59 Bugeye w/ original engine and tranny which he
would like to sell to a good home.
If interested, the car is in Butte, Montana. The seller is Jim and his
e-mail address is Jhandley@mtech.edu
I have not seen the car and have no further details.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Jwhlyadv at aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 11:20:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Spark problem BJ8
In a message dated 8/27/01 9:15:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
magicare@home.com writes:
> In my experience rocker shaft problems cause oiling of #4, 5 & 6
> cylinders because the rocker cover breather vents to the rear air
> filter.
>
My comment was simply that in the case of a bad rocker shaft you could often
observe excessive oil leaking from the rocker shaft by removing the oil
filler cap. An easier option as a very first step and something I do when
inspecting Healeys for purchase. Your comment about the oiling in the rear
cylinders is also an excellent tip indicating a worn rocker shaft.
Either symptom would be cause to remove the valve cover and inspect the
rockershaft further.
Thanks,
Jim Werner
Louisville, KY
Check out the new Austin Healey Coffee Mugs at Bluegrassclub.com
Check out the new Austin Healey License Plates at Bluegrassclub.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Schaible <jaschaible at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 15:29:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Dynamic Timing?
Can anyone on the list provide spec.s for dynamic timing of my BJ8?
I have a timing light with a dial-in advance scale and would really
like to give this a try. - Jack jaschaible@yahoo.com
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RanBullard at Clearchannel.com
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 18:39:16 -0400
Subject: BJ8 FRAME DIMENSIONS
Greetings Fellow Pealey, Squeeley, Healey owners!
Does anyone know where I might find frame dimensions for the BJ8? The shop
manual has drawings and dimensions for everything but the BJ8. The car that
I am restoring has some front-end damage, bent members, cracked motor
mounts, etc. My only Healey experience does not include the BJ8 phaseII
cars, so when I put the body up onto my Healey Rotisserie, I noticed that
the frame rails are not straight. They seem to be straight from the front,
aft to the forward outriggers, where they assume an up-angle and proceed to
the bends under the rear axle. Lots of body work was done by previous
owners, so I'm not sure what dimensions are correct.
Thanks!
Ran Bullard
Director of Engineering
Clear Channel Santa Barbara
414 E. Cota St.
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
(805) 879-8309 office
(805) 879-8430 fax
(805) 689-9743 cell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 17:30:55 -0700
Subject: Octane Redux
I had an off-the-list reply indicating that 87 octane works fine in his Big
Healey. My BJ8 will
run on less than premium, but I have fairly low compression (120-140) in my
engine (which
runs fine).
I guess I assumed you need "high test" in a Big Healey engine. Anybody else
get by with less?
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 18:25:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
Hi All -
When I rebuilt my BJ8 engine, I think a rebuilt it a
little too tight in the cylinders (i.e. used all five
rings) and as a result have always had to use octane
boost. If the octane is around 94 or more, it works
fine.
As a consequense, I have always used Bardahl's instead
o lead gold - which is an excellent lead substitute &
octane boost all in one (it actually boosts the
octane!).
If I could do it all over again, I would have used low
compression pistons & hardened valve seats (which
weren't yet available 10 years ago).
On a side note - gas in Hong Kong is VERY high octane
- the car runs like a champ in this town...
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66 BJ8
--- Bob Spidell <bspidell@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> I had an off-the-list reply indicating that 87
> octane works fine in his Big Healey. My BJ8 will
> run on less than premium, but I have fairly low
> compression (120-140) in my engine (which
> runs fine).
>
> I guess I assumed you need "high test" in a Big
> Healey engine. Anybody else get by with less?
>
> Bob
>
>
>
***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell
> bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
> robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine)
> `56 100M (Dad's) PP/ASEL
>
***********************************************************************
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 20:56:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Dynamic Timing?
<<Can anyone on the list provide spec.s for dynamic timing of my BJ8?
I have a timing light with a dial-in advance scale and would really
like to give this a try. - Jack jaschaible@yahoo.com
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger>>
Robert Bentley Shop Manual, John. But then again, if you have to use Yahoo
for e-mail prob'ly can't "afford" a Shop Manual?!?!?
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 19:12:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
My 100-Six has standard crown .060 pistons, BJ8 cam grind, and runs quite
nicely on 91/92. It has
never been sensitive to octane (though I've never tried lower). Now, this is a
relativley fresh
motor, so probably has no significant carbon buildup, which would aggravate
pre-ignition.
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
Bob Spidell wrote:
> I had an off-the-list reply indicating that 87 octane works fine in his Big
>Healey. My BJ8 will
> run on less than premium, but I have fairly low compression (120-140) in my
>engine (which
> runs fine).
>
> I guess I assumed you need "high test" in a Big Healey engine. Anybody else
>get by with less?
>
> Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 21:21:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Dynamic Timing?
Let me see if I can field that question John.... I am sure I'll get bounced
on but I'll do the best I can..... First off I don't have the exact Spec's
on a BJ8 But What I might be able to do for you is clarify what we are
looking at in the first place....So here we go...
Timing of an engine is essentially providing the spark at the right time to
the combustion chamber for the cylinder involved.... assuming that we could
buy fuel of the appropreate quality ( and we can't really ) we want that
spark to happen at the point which gives us the Maximum avalible Cylinder
pressure for the load conditions.... ... that is Load demand and RPM of the
engine for that given engine revolution.... the way we control timing is
actually relatively easy to understand.... There are Three different timing
( four if you count points dwell )
First you have the static timing.... this is where you put the crank on X
degrees before Top dead center and move the distributor till the points just
open.
Second is Mechanical advance.... once the engine is running we can gain Peak
cylinder pressure by continously advancing the timing to a give point....
this happens as a result of a couple of Fly away weights in the distributor
and is based solely on RPM of the Distributor.
the Third way we effect timing is to Increase or decrease the total advance
based on LOAD demand..... open throttle equates to Very little Vacuum and
Idle conditions equals an increase is Vacuum.....
Bottom line when you mention the term Dynamic timing and your Timing light
what your trying to determine is what the actual Distributor curve is as a
result of the initial timing.... added to the centrifugal advance and the
Manifold vacuum's effect on the Vacuum advance module on the
Distributor.....
By disconnecting the vacuum advance up front we can set initial timing so
long as the RPM is kept to a Minimum.... not allowing the centrifugal
weights to extend away from the Center..... Then we can measure the amount
of advance the Weights add to the total by revving the motor up until the
Timing mark is once again stable..... then by adding in the vacuum advance
you can check the total.....
I am sure someone in here will answer your basic question about advance
degree.....but I want to give you some further food for thought....
First off .... we assume that everything is Perfect to get the given changes
that the spec's are going to call for..... BUT here are a couple of the
things that can and Do go wrong with the LUCUS distributors I have played
with.... the springs on the mechanical advance get Stiff and often freeze
up with disuse..... or they get REALLY loose as a result of Overuse.... (
hey were trying to maintain some old stuff here )
Second the cam on the distributor can simply wear out.... which might lead
or lag a bit ( something bout Dwell... Hmmm) or significantly vary from lobe
to lobe....
third the advancing plate for the Vacuum advance can become crusty and the
Lines associated with it can become dry rotted.....
Lastly it's my opinion that it really is worth your time to check out each
of these and like the rotary timing lights for cars like ours..... but don't
bother on a HP engine with a real deal HEI distrutor.... as it can really
mess up the accuracy of the light....
Keith ( Yep Back from Bonneville.... Broke two Motors and the 6 speed
trans..... but such is life.... I did bring home a 1/2 " open ended wrench
that survived the trip virtually unscathed ) ( best 2 mile speed was 212mph
with 3 miles left to go and simply ran into Several issues ...) LONG WEEK on
the Salt...
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schaible" <jaschaible@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 5:29 PM
Subject: Dynamic Timing?
>
> Can anyone on the list provide spec.s for dynamic timing of my BJ8?
> I have a timing light with a dial-in advance scale and would really
> like to give this a try. - Jack jaschaible@yahoo.com
> Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
> http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 21:38:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
I love these little blunders into the world of theory..... just a couple of
thoughts on octane.... ( hey I only post a couple times a year bear with
me....)
Octane is rated in two methods.... research and motor octane.... the higher
the Number the slower the fuel actually burns in the combustion chamber. I
remember reading in one of my Healey books that Geoff was bitching bout some
fuel avalible here in the states.... now keep in mind this was back when
Real Octane numbers with Lead were avalible.....
The Slower you can get a fuel to burn the more resistent that fuel is to
Pre-ignition and detonation....( both bad things ) and the Most importantly
the longer it has to act on Pressuring the piston down the stroke of the
crank shaft.... somehow that equates to the amount of Torque availible and
ultimately the amount of HP avalible as.... with higher octane I can run an
increased static and dynamic compression ratio......
BUT with the Junk we have at the Local stop and rob.... Personally I back
the timing off and run a bit of 102 low lead now and again...( I haven't
converted my Hundred or the bugeye's engines to hardened Valve Seats ) I
just give up the Hp for the side benifet of having less chance of hurting
the motor..... Knocking isn't GOOD.....
Keith ( on the Rodeck aluminum 300" engine I just lost 4 pistons to
extreamly lean fuel air ratio's.... Not a Good thing....BIG SIGN at
Bonneville...." thou shalt NOT run Lean" )
----- Original Message -----
From: "kerowako" <kerowako@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
>
> My 100-Six has standard crown .060 pistons, BJ8 cam grind, and runs quite
nicely on 91/92. It has
> never been sensitive to octane (though I've never tried lower). Now, this
is a relativley fresh
> motor, so probably has no significant carbon buildup, which would
aggravate pre-ignition.
>
> Fred Meyer
> Longbridge BN4
>
> Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> > I had an off-the-list reply indicating that 87 octane works fine in his
Big Healey. My BJ8 will
> > run on less than premium, but I have fairly low compression (120-140) in
my engine (which
> > runs fine).
> >
> > I guess I assumed you need "high test" in a Big Healey engine. Anybody
else get by with less?
> >
> > Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bob & bev hatcher" <bandbhatcher at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:46:44 +1000
Subject: 100S for sale by auction
I recently noticed an Austin Healey 100S advertised for sale by auction here
in Australia. Details from the auctioneer's catalogue are....
circa 1955 .Austin-Healey 100S.AUSTIN MOTOR CO. LTD, LONGBRIDGE, BIRMINGHAM,
ENGLAND..Engine No.: -IV222741.Chassis No.: -AHS3901.Bodywork: -Aluminium
panelled two-seater sports-racing roadster NO. AHR/S/71.Colour: -White and
blue.Interior: -Blue leather.Mechanical Specifications.
If you go to http://www.soldbyauctioneers.com.au/goodmans and do a "Lot Item
Search" using the phrase "100S" it will lead you to this information and a
photo.
No financial interest, etc...
Bob Hatcher
BN1
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 21:18:37 +0100
Subject: Moss or Heritage Tonneau
Moss currently has a nice sale going on tops and tonneaus. A BT7
tonneau, in my case a white one, is selling for $199, which seems like a
good price.
Called Heritage Upholstry, which advertises in AH Magazine.
Heritage offers a BT7 tonneau for $265.
I want a tonneau only to put something over the cockpit when I
park the BT7 in public areas. Authenticity for points in show is not a
concern, although I would like the general appearance to be as original.
Has anyone bought a Moss tonneau? Were you happy with it? Any
reason for me to spend the extra $ for the Heritage tonneau?
Thanks in advance,
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From ynotink <ynotink at qwest.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 21:50:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
If I remember from my High School days (admittedly a long time ago) listening
to the big boys talk
about their hotted up cars the need for high octane fuel comes from higher
compression ratios. Premium
fuel begins to be useful at about 9 or 9.5:1.
No stock Healey engine runs a CR that high. If you haven't increased the CR
then any money spent on
premium fuel is wasted. For anything up to about 8.5:1 regular fuel should work
fine. If you still
have pinging then you have other problems like timing, carbon deposits,
overheating or improper spark
plugs.
The big problem with modern fuel comes not from the octane rating but from the
lack of lead tetraethyl
which substance had the property of leaving deposits on the exhaust vales and
seats that acted as a
cushion and insulator to prevent the glowing, hot parts from sticking to one
another and causing
pitting and valve recession. Thus the need for "unleaded heads" or fuel
additives.
Bill Lawrence
Bob Spidell wrote:
> I had an off-the-list reply indicating that 87 octane works fine in his Big
>Healey. My BJ8 will
> run on less than premium, but I have fairly low compression (120-140) in my
>engine (which
> runs fine).
>
> I guess I assumed you need "high test" in a Big Healey engine. Anybody else
>get by with less?
>
> Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at home.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 21:11:49 -0700
Subject: BN1 engine
Thanks to all who responded to my leaky stud problem on the newly
rebuilt cyl head.
Chris Dimmock of Sydney, Australia wins the prize for the first reply.
Car was able to run for the first time in 14 months.
Lou
'55 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ron Rader <rader at interworld.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 23:06:23 -0700
Subject: Re: 100S for sale by auction
Bob:
what is the conversion rate for Aussie $$?
$200,000 to $250,000
ron
bob & bev hatcher wrote:
> I recently noticed an Austin Healey 100S advertised for sale by auction here
> in Australia. Details from the auctioneer's catalogue are....
>
> circa 1955 .Austin-Healey 100S.AUSTIN MOTOR CO. LTD, LONGBRIDGE, BIRMINGHAM,
> ENGLAND..Engine No.: -IV222741.Chassis No.: -AHS3901.Bodywork: -Aluminium
> panelled two-seater sports-racing roadster NO. AHR/S/71.Colour: -White and
> blue.Interior: -Blue leather.Mechanical Specifications.
>
> If you go to http://www.soldbyauctioneers.com.au/goodmans and do a "Lot Item
> Search" using the phrase "100S" it will lead you to this information and a
> photo.
>
> No financial interest, etc...
>
> Bob Hatcher
> BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "The.only.MkIII.in.Honkers" <international_investor at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 00:46:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100S for sale by auction
Ron -
About 2 to 1, so figure USD 100,000 to USD 125,000.
Regards,
Alan
'53 BN1 '66BJ8
--- Ron Rader <rader@interworld.net> wrote:
>
> Bob:
> what is the conversion rate for Aussie $$?
> $200,000 to $250,000
> ron
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 21:22:39 +1000
Subject: Re: 100S for sale by auction
There is more info, and a better pic of #AHS3901 here, for any interested
potential bidders...
http://www.blandengroup.com/catalogue/austinhealey100s.html
Alan is correct - Aussie $Pesodollars are worth just over half
$USrealdollars.
Enjoy
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob & bev hatcher" <bandbhatcher@hotmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 12:46 PM
Subject: 100S for sale by auction
>
> I recently noticed an Austin Healey 100S advertised for sale by auction
here
> in Australia. Details from the auctioneer's catalogue are....
>
> circa 1955 .Austin-Healey 100S.AUSTIN MOTOR CO. LTD, LONGBRIDGE,
BIRMINGHAM,
> ENGLAND..Engine No.: -IV222741.Chassis No.: -AHS3901.Bodywork: -Aluminium
> panelled two-seater sports-racing roadster NO. AHR/S/71.Colour: -White
and
> blue.Interior: -Blue leather.Mechanical Specifications.
>
> If you go to http://www.soldbyauctioneers.com.au/goodmans and do a "Lot
Item
> Search" using the phrase "100S" it will lead you to this information and a
> photo.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "donyarber" <donyarber at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 07:33:35 -0500
Subject: AHS#3901
Quite an impressive history on this car, but does that make it worth over
$100,000 US?
Is a book worth more money because Abraham Lincoln read it?
Don
BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 08:14:02 -0500
Subject: BN1 Distributor Cap
I am making up a new set of ignition wires using the distributor cap with
the screw on fittings. I am trying to put suppressor wires on it and can't
find a good way to make them tight. The little brass washers won't work
with the carbon conductor in modern wires. Any tips ?
Mark
Nashville
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 07:32:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
For what it's worth, just pulled the head from a 100-6. Two holed pistons!
Owner has used "high test" gasoline and lead additive with every tank of
fuel. Guess he never thought to check the ignition timing or he thought that
"noise" was normal.
Low compression engines,( i.e.. Healeys) = low octane fuel, is the rule.
You are just wasting money if you insist on high octane. Use an occasional
tank full or fuel system cleaner occasionally if you must.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
----- Original Message ----- >
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From M Brouillette <mbrouill at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 09:23:07 -0400
Subject: Instructions on replacing a steering wheel
Folks,
Does anyone have written up the step by step instructions to
take off and replace a steering wheel on an adjustable hub car? I have a
59 BT7 if it makes a difference...
Mike Brouillette
59 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Coop" <coop1 at dnai.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 06:34:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Moss or Heritage Tonneau
I just recently purchased a BJ8 tonneau from Heritage and, having some prior
experience with Moss tonneaus and tops, I believe the extra cost is
warranted. The seams on the Heritage tonneau are perfect with no untrimmed
threads or puckers and the overall construction is spot on. I had mine made
out of (non-standard but very attractive) dark blue Sunfast cloth. It is
striking and I'm very pleased. Don't know about the top, that's next - but
the Heritage leather seats are equally well done.
Perhaps my perspective is skewed but I feel that I'd rather pay a little
more now in exchange for never having to second guess the decision later.
Works for me.
Good luck. Randy Harris aka "Coop" ('66BJ8)
> Moss currently has a nice sale going on tops and tonneaus. A BT7
> tonneau, in my case a white one, is selling for $199, which seems like a
> good price.
>
> Called Heritage Upholstry, which advertises in AH Magazine.
> Heritage offers a BT7 tonneau for $265.
>
> I want a tonneau only to put something over the cockpit when I
> park the BT7 in public areas. Authenticity for points in show is not a
> concern, although I would like the general appearance to be as original.
>
> Has anyone bought a Moss tonneau? Were you happy with it? Any
> reason for me to spend the extra $ for the Heritage tonneau?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Rich Locasso
> Huntington Beach, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Douglas W. Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 10:32:51 -0400
Subject: Re: BJ8 Top Frame
Hi,
Lost my e-mail inbox. Need the person who contacted me about the BJ8 top
frame to post me off the list. Thanks.
Happy Healeying,
Doug
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 07:59:21 -0700
Subject: RE: AHS#3901
$125,000 should be a starting point for just about any decent authentic
100S. History can add from that point in my opinion.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 11:04:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Moss or Heritage Tonneau
I, like Coop, am a firm believer in "you-get-what-you-pay-for". I have seen both
and there is a night and day difference. Personally, I would pay the price for
the Heritage, even if the Moss pieces were free. And no, I'm not opening the
door to get into another after-market quality discussion. We beat that subject
to death previously.
Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Arjay <foxriverkid at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 11:12:18 -0400
Subject: Healeys and auction prices
Why is everybody so down on Healeys bringing high prices? Someone said
that $70,000 plus Healey was a sure sign of the economy getting ready to
unglue itself.
What is the possibility that Healeys are gaining the interest of serious
collectors and are going up in value? I think they are I, for one,
cracked open a bottle of Champagne upon hearing the results of the
Pebble Beach Auction and hope the Australian 100-S goes well over
$100,000 US.
Those of you who perceive your cars as next to worthless should get rid
of them. What's a Fiat 1100 powered Cisitalia roadster worth $200,000
more than an Austin powered Healey. Both did well in the Mille Miglias.
You have to stop thinking like listing realtors and more like car
collectors.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 10:01:02 -0600
Subject: Re: AHS#3901
It is if there were only 50 of them. Rarity my friend rarity.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "donyarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 6:33 AM
Subject: AHS#3901
>
> Quite an impressive history on this car, but does that make it worth over
> $100,000 US?
>
> Is a book worth more money because Abraham Lincoln read it?
>
> Don
> BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:44:09 EDT
Subject: Re: AHS#3901 (100,000 USD?)
If 100,000 USD sounds high for a 100S, check this out for order of magnitude:
A Gibson Les Paul Standard electric guitar (Sunburst colored) from 1958-1960
can sell for 60 to over 100,000 USD. That's a freaking electric guitar!!
There were around 1700 of them made, and they were priced around 349.00. The
more expensive Les Paul custom sells for way less (around 12,000 USD)
Rick
San Diego
In a message dated 8/28/01 9:08:46, feehanr@home.com writes:
<<
It is if there were only 50 of them. Rarity my friend rarity.
RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "donyarber" <donyarber@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 6:33 AM
Subject: AHS#3901
>
> Quite an impressive history on this car, but does that make it worth over
> $100,000 US?
>
> Is a book worth more money because Abraham Lincoln read it?
>
> Don
> BN7 >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From busyrider at springmail.com
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:11:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Healeys and auction prices x-mac-creator=
Because BJ-8's and the like are shake and bake production cars. They are great
cars and I love 'em but they punched out too many of them to be legitimately
worth $70,000.
A Cisitalia by comparison was neither a production car nor made in sufficient
numbers to be a valkid comparison. In contrast, whether one likes a Cisitalia
or not, is a work of art.
Sometimes Healey owners lose perspective of Healey's place in automotive
history.
They are beautiful and enjoyable sports cars that made certain contributions to
the British car scene of their time, but they didn't really blaze any trails
with innovative designs or technology.
Fred Criswell
On Tue, 28 Aug 2001 11:12:18 -0400 Arjay <foxriverkid@earthlink.net> wrote:
Why is everybody so down on Healeys bringing high prices? Someone said
that $70,000 plus Healey was a sure sign of the economy getting ready to
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Sam Shaub" <sfsyorkpa at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 17:12:29 +0000
Subject: Re: Healeys and auction prices x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
Pebble Beach is a aboration of monied bidders. The real world is E-Bay's
"reserve not met" results on Healey auctions.
>
>Why is everybody so down on Healeys bringing high prices? Someone said
>that $70,000 plus Healey was a sure sign of the economy getting ready to
>unglue itself.
>
>What is the possibility that Healeys are gaining the interest of serious
>collectors and are going up in value? I think they are I, for one,
>cracked open a bottle of Champagne upon hearing the results of the
>Pebble Beach Auction and hope the Australian 100-S goes well over
>$100,000 US.
>
>Those of you who perceive your cars as next to worthless should get rid
>of them. What's a Fiat 1100 powered Cisitalia roadster worth $200,000
>more than an Austin powered Healey. Both did well in the Mille Miglias.
>
>You have to stop thinking like listing realtors and more like car
>collectors.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Taylor, Todd S" <todd.s.taylor at lmco.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:31:36 -0400
Subject: Re: AHS#3901 (100,000 USD?)
Anybody want to buy my 1977 Les Paul standard for $10,000 ??
>>If 100,000 USD sounds high for a 100S, check this out for order of
magnitude:
>>A Gibson Les Paul Standard electric guitar (Sunburst colored) from
1958-1960
>>can sell for 60 to over 100,000 USD. That's a freaking electric guitar!!
>>There were around 1700 of them made, and they were priced around 349.00.
The
>>more expensive Les Paul custom sells for way less (around 12,000 USD)
>>Rick
>>San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 13:31:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Healeys and auction prices
In a message dated 8/28/01 10:14:20 AM, busyrider@springmail.com writes:
<<
Because BJ-8's and the like are shake and bake production cars. They are
great cars and I love 'em but they punched out too many of them to be
legitimately worth $70,000. >>
Jumping in on this late -- I was on a mini-vacation last week in Iceland
driving on glaciers in Land Rovers -- at the risk of repeating others, I'd
add two comments:
First, this was the last Healey sold on the weekend. Christie attracts
heavy-hitters for whom $70,000 is the change they get back when they buy
their Mercedes SSK, and all it would take would be for two wives to want the
same car, the last to be on the block, and what should have stopped at
$40,000, a reasonable price for that car, runs up to $70,000 before someone
realizes they've overshot the mark and blinks. One robin doesn't make a
spring.
Second, the valid comparisons I would make with Healeys are other production
cars of slightly better performance and appearance, e.g. Jaguars. $70,000 wi
ll buy a pretty nice though not the very best, E-type or XK120. It is
usually the Jaguars that keep a lid on Healey prices.
Cheers
Gary Anderson
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 11:15:05 -0700
Subject: RE: AHS#3901 (100,000 USD?)
Forget that, does anyone want my BJ8 for 70K! I'd be more than happy to
start another restoration with that in my pocket :)
Bill W.
P.S. you could probably bargain me down to, say, $65K pretty easily...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Taylor, Todd S [mailto:todd.s.taylor@lmco.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 10:32 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: AHS#3901 (100,000 USD?)
>
> Anybody want to buy my 1977 Les Paul standard for $10,000 ??
>
> >>If 100,000 USD sounds high for a 100S, check this out for order of
> magnitude:
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:27:41 -0400
Subject: Re: AHS#3901
If my memory serves me correctly a 100S sold in the U.K. in the late
80's for something around One hundred and Ninety thousand pounds.
I figure that out to be around $US280K. Obviously two people thought
that a 100S was worth that back then.
A top BJ8 was bringing about $US30K back then. If a similar BJ8 is now
bringing $70K ....
IMHO that car on West Island could go for a LOT of money...but then ...
--
Regards,
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William Wood Jr" <healeybill at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:36:15 -0400
Subject: 100S car sales
Having sold, somewhat recently, 3501, 3504, 3505, 3606, 3605, 3607, 3608,
and 3903 plus the engine of 3801 which was built into a car selling at
auction at Barret Jackson as an authentic car and the parts of 3510 which
the Australians used to "create" another saleable authentic car, I echo the
thoughts that it takes "balls" to purchase any 100S.
Depending on the year of sale, one of the above sold for $125,000 unrestored
and a fully restored one had a hard time selling for $130,000. Knowing that
I saved about 25% of all 100S cars, or better yet about one third of all the
USA cars, I can speak with some authority that timing is the key!
Remember, I bought my first 100S, driving, for $400.00 and the rarest one
for less than $1500.00 which points out that the times and merchandising
makes a difference. Selling the engine to make 3801 for $25,000 so that
someone could make a "reproduction" replica 100S to sell to some
unsuspecting person, be he a collector or not, tells the World to beware.
I have pictures of 3901 after the fire, and it wasn't that bad. All the
history has been created in the last few years, so what does that mean?
When John Gray tries to sell the recreated 3510, will anyone tell the
prospective buyer (at Over $100,000) that all it is are 3510 from the fire
wall back frame attached to repro Steve Pike fenders and doors, rear shroud,
replica gas tank and running gear. By the way I still have all the
correctly numbered cockpit surrounds for 3510 if someone else wants to make
another AHS 3510 for the United States. For probably $50,000 you could own
an "authentic" 3510 and sell it for $100,000.
Regards to all,
Bill Wood
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "David Masucci" <david_m at radiantsoundworks.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:54:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Moss or Heritage Tonneau
I JUST CALLED hERITAGE TO ORDER ONE FOR MY bj8, AND THEY'RE ON SALE FOR $220
DAVE
BJ8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arjay" <foxriverkid@earthlink.net>
To: "Coop" <coop1@dnai.com>
Cc: "Rich Locasso" <LifeisRich@MacConnect.com>; "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: Moss or Heritage Tonneau
>
> I, like Coop, am a firm believer in "you-get-what-you-pay-for". I have
seen both
> and there is a night and day difference. Personally, I would pay the price
for
> the Heritage, even if the Moss pieces were free. And no, I'm not opening
the
> door to get into another after-market quality discussion. We beat that
subject
> to death previously.
>
> Bob Denton
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From francois wildi <fwildi at yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 11:56:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: AH3000, what rocker arm ratio
While checking the piston-valve clearance of my rebult engine with
reground cam, I could not find the stock rocker arm ratio in the shop
manual. Does anyone know?
Thanks in advance
Francois
Bj7
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Pennell" <pennell at whro.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 15:21:42 -0400
Subject: Rear spring screw
Listers,
A friend is in need of one screw for a spring keeper for his BJ7. This is the
earlier U shaped keeper held together with a countersunk screw of about 2 or
so inches in length.
Anyone out there got one to spare?
Many thanks
Keith Pennell
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 20:56:23 +0100
Subject: Healey (BJ8) for sale
No...not mine.
I notice that there is a BJ8 in good but not concours condition at a garage not
far from me here in Guildford (UK). The car is at the Sandford Garage on Dorking
Road (next to The Sanford Arms) the asking is #15k. Haven't looked under the
bonnet but it looks superficially OK. The garage is closing and he wants to sell
it.
All the usual disclaimers apply.
Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 20:58:52 +0100
Subject: Healeys in Liege-Sofia-Liege
For those of you able to get it this month's Motor Sport has a great article by
Tony Ambrose on his win in the Liege.
Peter Dzwig
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 15:17:49 -0500
Subject: Re: AH3000, what rocker arm ratio
OEM ratio for BJ8 is 1.45:1 for the rocker arms.
Best regards.
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Sam Shaub" <sfsyorkpa at hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 20:21:05 +0000
Subject: Re: AHS#3901
Maybe that's what someone did with with his capital gains from the '87 stock
market sell off. Apparently it's not happening again with the NASDAQ tech
and .com crash.
>If my memory serves me correctly a 100S sold in the U.K. in the late
>80's for something around One hundred and Ninety thousand pounds.
>I figure that out to be around $US280K. Obviously two people thought
>that a 100S was worth that back then.
>A top BJ8 was bringing about $US30K back then. If a similar BJ8 is now
>bringing $70K ....
>IMHO that car on West Island could go for a LOT of money...but then ...
>
>--
>Regards,
>
>Mike Salter
>http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bill Rister <brister at hal-pc.org>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 15:28:16 -0700
Subject: Tonneau Cover
I bought my tonneau cover before the discussion started. And have not
yet installed it... I have one question. The hardware which came with
it contains snap posts for the dash/door corners only. My bugeye sprite
has these snaps plus snaps on each side of the rearview mirror. Should
not the BT7 tonneau have the same? Should I be scouting for two snaps
and posts?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Tim Sisson <sisson at one.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 16:44:59 -0400
Subject: fenders for big Healeys
Over a time span of 25 years as a hobbyist I managed to accumulated a
pile of
extra fenders. I have finally managed to straighten and weld (MIG)
these as required to bring them back to factory specs - factory in this
case meaning that they fit the very straight, sound BJ8 I am restoring.
Some fit 100s, some fit 1006/3000 roadsters and some fit 3000
convertables. They are primered and ready for final
sanding and paint. Contact me at sisson@one.net or 513 922 2104 for
price and availability.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Johnsen, Bernard" <JOHNSBE2 at mail.northgrum.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 17:11:02 -0400
Subject: Interstate Battery Number
Listers -
Can anyone tell me the Interstate Battery Number that fits a
BJ8 ? The car is positive ground, if that makes a difference.
Thanks -
Bernie Johnsen, future DPO 1967 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 18:01:25 -0500
Subject: Project wanted
Well, with the completion of the Bugeye, I need a new project. Some you
British car types must have a 60's Triumph, BSA, or Norton motorcycle
lying around that you really don't need. I'm not a fan of basket cases
or failed attempts at choppers but anything else would be considered.
The preference would be a bike that was all there but needed "doing" but
if you have a really nice bike (even a Royal Enfield)that you might
consider selling, please let me know.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Quinn, Patrick" <Patrick.Quinn at det.nsw.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:04:13 +1000
Subject: RE: 100S car sales
Greetings
The secret to the price of John Blandon's 100S is history.
You would all realise that just because you go out and buy a wrecked BN7 Mk2
and during its restoration fit triple Webers, paint it red and a white
hardtop doesn't make it worth anything like Works Rally 3000. It is just not
possible to buy a car and then buy the provenance separately.
It is the combination of the car and the provenance that goes to make its
value. Rarity is of course very important and it helps that the S was
produced in such low numbers, but it is not the be all and end all. My BN3
is one of one made and no way could I in my wildest dreams think it's worth
as much as a 100S.
Sometimes a lot of us forget what the 100S was really all about. Perhaps if
we were to draw a comparison between the Jaguar XK120 and C-Type and XK150
and D-Type we might start to realise that the S is not your average
Austin-Healey. Besides that I still wouldn't buy one as I couldn't fit the
picnic basket into the boot.
Despite all this it continues to surprise me that the MkI 3000 Sebring car
that Bill Bolton sold a year or so back went for so little money. It was
authentic and had bags of provenance.
Regards
Patrick Quinn
Sydney, Australia
1947 Healey Duncan Saloon (One of 39 Duncan bodied Healeys built and not
worth much)
1954 Austin-Healey 100 BN3/1 (One of 1 built and worth lots)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 20:50:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Project wanted
Ron Soave wrote:
> --- Larry Dickstein <bugide@solve.net> wrote:
> > Well, with the completion of the Bugeye, I need a
> > new project. Some you
> > British car types must have a 60's Triumph, BSA, or
> > Norton motorcycle
> > lying around that you really don't need.
>
> I need a Vincent. Even a basket case.
>
If I find an extra one, I'll keep you in mind!!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From KingPinion at aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 22:42:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Project wanted (2 seater Tri carb on ebay)
There's a rare 2 seater tri carb up for auction on ebay. While it's a little
pricey for a semi-basket case...it's still a prospective gem.
Tri-carb on ebay
A. Haymond
Altadena, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 20:19:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
----- Original Message -----
From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
Cc: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
>
> If I remember from my High School days (admittedly a long time ago)
listening to the big boys talk
> about their hotted up cars the need for high octane fuel comes from higher
compression ratios. Premium
> fuel begins to be useful at about 9 or 9.5:1.
Is it not true that ALL Healey 3000 engines were manufactured with a
compression ratio of 9.03:1?
Al Adams
1959 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 21:53:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
All right. I always thought anything below 9:1 was "low" compression and
anything over
10:1 was "high" compression. This leaves a stock Healey engine somewhere in
between.
Anybody know a "formal" definition of high/low compression?
Just as an aside, the aircraft engines that require 100/130 LL avgas are
usually between
8:1 and 8.5:1. The detonation margin is even more critcal in those engines.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
>
> For what it's worth, just pulled the head from a 100-6. Two holed pistons!
> Owner has used "high test" gasoline and lead additive with every tank of
> fuel. Guess he never thought to check the ignition timing or he thought that
> "noise" was normal.
> Low compression engines,( i.e.. Healeys) = low octane fuel, is the rule.
> You are just wasting money if you insist on high octane. Use an occasional
> tank full or fuel system cleaner occasionally if you must.
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr at earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 21:53:52 -0700
Subject: Clausager's Original A-H
While looking through Amazon.com I noticed that Anders Ditlev Clausager's
"Original Austin-Healey 100, 100-Six & 3000" is to be published in paperback
in September 2001. They are taking advance orders at $17.46. Cheers.
Al Adams
1959 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Harper <john at jharper.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 20:49:41 +0100
Subject: Re: BN1 Distributor Cap
Mark
Personally Mark I would not try. Why not use the original solid wire
plug leads. If you feel the need for extra suppression then period
suppressor plug caps can be found. They will be 10 of 15K ohms. There
are some made by Lucas around. By the way in the UK we all found it
necessary to fit extra suppressors in the late 1950s. Our new TV
channels were extremely prone to interference from car ignition. People
would come running out of their houses to complain because they could no
longer see or hear their programme if an unsuppressed engine were
running outside.
All the best
>
>I am making up a new set of ignition wires using the distributor cap with
>the screw on fittings. I am trying to put suppressor wires on it and can't
>find a good way to make them tight. The little brass washers won't work
>with the carbon conductor in modern wires. Any tips ?
>
>Mark
>Nashville
>
--
John Harper
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Rogier van der Mast" <rvdm1 at hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 06:48:30
Subject: Re: 100S car sales
Bill,
So which chassis# do you own yourselves? You do own one, right? I cannot
imagine somebody who has had so many 100S cars would not keep one. Well
List, I guess we know now at least 8 cars are still alive in the states.
There are some in Australia. How many 100S have we now located. Are there
still missing?
Cheers,
Rogier
Everytime I think of her, I picture myself looking at her fantastic body,
her tight fit and how damn good she is when she is hot! - Yes, I love my
Austin Healey!
_________________________________________________________________
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Reid Trummel <AHCUSA at excite.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 03:28:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: 100S car sales
On Wed, 29 Aug 2001 06:48:30 , Rogier van der Mast wrote:
<< Well List, I guess we know now at least 8 cars are still alive in the
states. There are some in Australia. How many 100S have we now located.
Are there still missing? >>
"Today, fully 45 of the original 50 production cars are accounted for. Six
are known to have been written off (destroyed), and 39 are confirmed to
still exist. Just 5 examples are missing."
Reference: 2001 Austin-Healey Resource Book, page 151. See
http://www.healey.org/resource-book.shtml
_______________________________________________________
http://inbox.excite.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 21:02:09 +1000
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
The need for octane is a function of many different factors - not purely
compression ratios. Modern cars (eg my Turbo charged Subaru) is capable of
adjusting its own computer controlled ignition, (i.e. advancing itself) in
order to gain maximum performance from the 98 octane unleaded premium fuels
now available here in Australia. It effectively advances the ignition until
it pings - then retards until the pinging stops. So there is no question of
'wasting money' on better fuel - the engine adapts & uses the octane.
Compression ratio is 8:1 - its a 2 litre turbo - and Subaru says don't use
less than 96 octane fuel. Ever.
And that's basically the same principle for non computer controlled cars -
eg Healeys. But it is a manual process called 'tuning' Put the best fuel in
you can buy - then advance the ignition until it pings - then retard the
ignition until it stops pinging. Alternatively, another method (which I
haven't tried - but I am assured works) - is just put crap low octane (less
than 96 octane) fuel in - retard the hell out of the ignition until it stops
pinging - and have an unresponsive & hard to start underperforming 'sports'
car - but you can smile 'cause you saved a dollar or two a tankfull ....
BTW - I haven't ever found a 'fuel' statement in a big Healey owners
handbook (3000's are 9:1 compression)- but the statement in the Sprite
owners handbook for 9:1 compression Sprites says:
"...fuels with an octane rating below 96 are not suitable; should it be
necessary to use a fuel with a lower octane number, the car must be used
very carefully until the correct fuel can be obtained. It is recommended
that super grade fuels with an octane rating of 100 be used when optimum
performance is required." P.20 AKD1627D (Sprite Mk II - 9:1 compression
engine - drivers handbook)
"...fuels with an octane rating below 98 are not suitable; should it be
necessary to use a fuel with a lower octane number, the car must be used
very carefully until the correct fuel can be obtained. It is necessary to
use super grade fuels in the 100 octane range unless premium fuels of
minimum 98-octane (Research method) are available." P.21 AKD3899G 1967
Sprite Mk III - 8.9:1 compression - drivers handbook.)
Do your own research - spend your own money - take your own chances. None of
the above is relevant to the 'lead' issue - merely octane. Make your own
arrangements for valve seat lubrication.
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr@earthlink.net>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> > If I remember from my High School days (admittedly a long time ago)
> listening to the big boys talk
> > about their hotted up cars the need for high octane fuel comes from
higher
> compression ratios. Premium
> > fuel begins to be useful at about 9 or 9.5:1.
>
> Is it not true that ALL Healey 3000 engines were manufactured with a
> compression ratio of 9.03:1?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Keith Turk" <kturk at ala.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 06:06:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
Chris.... that was exceptionally well stated and framed.... I totally
agree...
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:02 AM
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
>
> The need for octane is a function of many different factors - not purely
> compression ratios. Modern cars (eg my Turbo charged Subaru) is capable of
> adjusting its own computer controlled ignition, (i.e. advancing itself) in
> order to gain maximum performance from the 98 octane unleaded premium
fuels
> now available here in Australia. It effectively advances the ignition
until
> it pings - then retards until the pinging stops. So there is no question
of
> 'wasting money' on better fuel - the engine adapts & uses the octane.
> Compression ratio is 8:1 - its a 2 litre turbo - and Subaru says don't use
> less than 96 octane fuel. Ever.
>
> And that's basically the same principle for non computer controlled cars -
> eg Healeys. But it is a manual process called 'tuning' Put the best fuel
in
> you can buy - then advance the ignition until it pings - then retard the
> ignition until it stops pinging. Alternatively, another method (which I
> haven't tried - but I am assured works) - is just put crap low octane
(less
> than 96 octane) fuel in - retard the hell out of the ignition until it
stops
> pinging - and have an unresponsive & hard to start underperforming
'sports'
> car - but you can smile 'cause you saved a dollar or two a tankfull ....
>
> BTW - I haven't ever found a 'fuel' statement in a big Healey owners
> handbook (3000's are 9:1 compression)- but the statement in the Sprite
> owners handbook for 9:1 compression Sprites says:
>
> "...fuels with an octane rating below 96 are not suitable; should it be
> necessary to use a fuel with a lower octane number, the car must be used
> very carefully until the correct fuel can be obtained. It is recommended
> that super grade fuels with an octane rating of 100 be used when optimum
> performance is required." P.20 AKD1627D (Sprite Mk II - 9:1 compression
> engine - drivers handbook)
>
> "...fuels with an octane rating below 98 are not suitable; should it be
> necessary to use a fuel with a lower octane number, the car must be used
> very carefully until the correct fuel can be obtained. It is necessary to
> use super grade fuels in the 100 octane range unless premium fuels of
> minimum 98-octane (Research method) are available." P.21 AKD3899G 1967
> Sprite Mk III - 8.9:1 compression - drivers handbook.)
>
> Do your own research - spend your own money - take your own chances. None
of
> the above is relevant to the 'lead' issue - merely octane. Make your own
> arrangements for valve seat lubrication.
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> 1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
> 'one of the first and one of the last'
> http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
> ______________________________________
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Allen Adams" <aadamsjr@earthlink.net>
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "ynotink" <ynotink@qwest.net>
> > > If I remember from my High School days (admittedly a long time ago)
> > listening to the big boys talk
> > > about their hotted up cars the need for high octane fuel comes from
> higher
> > compression ratios. Premium
> > > fuel begins to be useful at about 9 or 9.5:1.
> >
> > Is it not true that ALL Healey 3000 engines were manufactured with a
> > compression ratio of 9.03:1?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 07:16:46 -0400
Subject: reference check
Does anyone on the list have experience with Bmc Classics in New Smyrna Beach,
Fl.? The owner is Harold Brandner and has web site as dreamsonwheels.com. I,m
considering a purchase, and I certainly am appreciative of this list. You may
contact me off list.
Thanks Dave
Caudle1@home.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyHundred at aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 07:27:50 EDT
Subject: Auto Humor
Most people assume WWJD is for "What would Jesus do?" But the initials really
stand for "What would Jesus drive?" One theory is that Jesus would tool
around in an old Plymouth because "the Bible says God drove Adam and Eve out
of the Garden of Eden in a Fury."
But in Psalm 83, the Almighty clearly owns a Pontiac and a Geo.
The passage urges the Lord to "pursue your enemies with your
Tempest and terrify them with your Storm."
Perhaps God favors Dodge pickup trucks, because Moses' followers are warned
not to go up a mountain "until the Ram's horn sounds a long blast."
Some scholars insist that Jesus drove a Honda but didn't like to
talk about it. As proof, they cite a verse in St. John's gospel where Christ
tells the crowd, "For I did not speak of my own Accord..."
Meanwhile, Moses rode an old British motorcycle, as evidenced by a Bible
passage declaring that "the roar of Moses' Triumph is heard in the hills."
Joshua drove a Triumph sports car with a hole in its muffler:
"Joshua's Triumph was heard throughout the land."
And, following the Master's lead, the Apostles car pooled in a
Honda..."The Apostles were in one Accord".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From BANJOJOHN at aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 07:43:42 EDT
Subject: catch in the clutch - THANKS!
To those who responded - Thanks you. I replaced the clevis pin, which was
badly worn, however I think the real problem was the flexible hose at the
slave cylinder. After some searching I found a suitable replacement, and now
the clutch operates smooth as silk. Good call on that one. The hose was
badly deteriorated on the outside, so I'm sure the inside wasn't much better.
Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks to those who steered me in the right
direction.
John O'Brien
'61 bugeye
'65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Stephen Hutchings <hutching at the-wire.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:02:35 -0400
Subject: Re; Healeys and auction prices
I think that the higher prices climb, the fewer real enthusiasts
("drivers") can afford to become involved.
I don't see car collecting and an enthusiasm for vintage autos as
necessarily the same thing.
Stephen, BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:21:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
Knocking:
Knocking or pinging is the sound of abnormal combustion. Normal combustion
in a spark-ignition internal combustion engine is initiated by a spark. The
flame front fans out from the spark plug and travels across the combustion
chamber rapidly and smoothly until almost all the fuel is consumed. When
combustion is abnormal, the last part of the unburned mixture ignites
spontaneously (autoignites) and burns very rapidly, causing the pressure in
the cylinder to rise rapidly. This creates the characteristic knocking or
pinging noise.
Occasional light knocking doesn't hurt an engine. However, heavy or
prolonged knocking may result in: loss of power, overheating, knock induced
surface ignition, and ultimately engine damage.
Knock occurs because the gasoline's antiknock index ( AKI ) is below the
antiknock requirement of the engine at that MOMENT. Generally, the situation
involves high load conditions, like hard acceleration or climbing a grade.
Octane number is a measure of a gasoline's anti-knock performance. It's
ability to resist knocking as it burns in the combustion chamber. There are
two laboratory test methods to measure the octane number of a gasoline. One
yields the Research octane number (RON), the other, the Motor octane number
(MON). Ron correlates best with low speed, mild knocking conditions; MON
correlates best with high speed and high temperature knocking conditions
and with part throttle operation. For a given gasoline RON is always greater
than MON. The difference between the two is called the "sensitivity" of the
fuel.
Generally, three grades of unleaded gasoline with different AKI's are
available in the US. Regular, midgrade and premium. At sea level, the posted
AKI for regular-grade is usually 87 and for midgrade, 89. The AKI of
premium-grade varies more, ranging from 91-94.
The posted AKI are lower in the Rocky Mountain states. These "altitude
gasoline's" historically provided the same antiknock performance as
higher-AKI gasoline's at sea level. The octane requirements of older model
engines decreases as air pressure ( barometric pressure) decreases.
The power an engine develops depends on it's design. In general, the more
air an engine can process, the more power it can produce. Major design
considerations for its power are the displacement of the engine, the
compression ratio, and the presence of a supercharger or turbocharger. Other
factors affecting power are the number of valves per cylinder, valve timing,
and spark timing. Because different grades of gasoline have essentially the
same heating value, they all provide the SAME power as long as their
antiknock performance meets the engines requirements. Please note: Adding
oxygenates ( MTBE or ethanol ) to conventional gasoline will decrease the
fuels heating value. Oxygenates have lower heating values than hydrocarbons.
The amount of decrease depends on the amounts and identities of the
oxygenate.
Bottom line? YOU choose. But, I still stand by what I said earlier. To wit,
Healeys don't need premium fuel to perform properly.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 5:02 AM
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
>
> The need for octane is a function of many different factors - not purely
> compression ratios. Modern cars (eg my Turbo charged Subaru) is capable of
> adjusting its own computer controlled ignition, (i.e. advancing itself) in
> order to gain maximum performance from the 98 octane unleaded premium
fuels
> now available here in Australia. It effectively advances the ignition
until
> it pings - then retards until the pinging stops. So there is no question
of
> 'wasting money' on better fuel - the engine adapts & uses the octane.
> Compression ratio is 8:1 - its a 2 litre turbo - and Subaru says don't use
> less than 96 octane fuel. Ever.
>
> And that's basically the same principle for non computer controlled cars -
> eg Healeys. But it is a manual process called 'tuning' Put the best fuel
in
> you can buy - then advance the ignition until it pings - then retard the
> ignition until it stops pinging. Alternatively, another method (which I
> haven't tried - but I am assured works) - is just put crap low octane
(less
> than 96 octane) fuel in - retard the hell out of the ignition until it
stops
> pinging - and have an unresponsive & hard to start underperforming
'sports'
> car - but you can smile 'cause you saved a dollar or two a tankfull ....
>
> BTW - I haven't ever found a 'fuel' statement in a big Healey owners
> handbook (3000's are 9:1 compression)- but the statement in the Sprite
> owners handbook for 9:1 compression Sprites says:
>
> "...fuels with an octane rating below 96 are not suitable; should it be
> necessary to use a fuel with a lower octane number, the car must be used
> very carefully until the correct fuel can be obtained. It is recommended
> that super grade fuels with an octane rating of 100 be used when optimum
> performance is required." P.20 AKD1627D (Sprite Mk II - 9:1 compression
> engine - drivers handbook)
>
> "...fuels with an octane rating below 98 are not suitable; should it be
> necessary to use a fuel with a lower octane number, the car must be used
> very carefully until the correct fuel can be obtained. It is necessary to
> use super grade fuels in the 100 octane range unless premium fuels of
> minimum 98-octane (Research method) are available." P.21 AKD3899G 1967
> Sprite Mk III - 8.9:1 compression - drivers handbook.)
>
> Do your own research - spend your own money - take your own chances. None
of
> the above is relevant to the 'lead' issue - merely octane. Make your own
> arrangements for valve seat lubrication.
>
> Chris
> ______________________________________
>
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia
> 1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
> 'one of the first and one of the last'
> http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
> ______________________________________
>
> ----- Original Message -----
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 11:58:00 EDT
Subject: Re: 100S car sales
In a message dated 8/28/01 5:06:33 PM, Patrick.Quinn@det.nsw.edu.au writes:
<<
Greetings
The secret to the price of John Blandon's 100S is history. >>
Pat and all --- did anyone note or discuss the sale at RM Auctions in
Monterey a week ago last Saturday of one of the Liege-Rome rally cars, the
one driven by Rupert Jones in the race that Pat Moss so famously won. I
looked at it -- it has been in Australia for many years and restored there.
It was impeccable, but with a puzzling resto. Had a rally interior, but in
red leather and vinyl rather than black and looked like it would be perfect
for historic rallies, but had neither racing seat belts nor any roll-over
protection. Much too pretty for track racing, even if it had the right
equipment and seems much too expensive and probably over-tuned (triple carbs,
race manifold) for the street.
Nevertheless, it sold for $130,000. Interesting.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:53:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Was: IMPORTANT WARNING SPRIDGETEERS! Now: ED (again)
Since this hasn't come up on Lists, I am re-sending!!
**********************************
<<I have met Ed. Ed is Ed, he's an all right guy.>>
Must have been somebody else, Frank<G><G>!!
<<Nice shop, nicer Fridge.>>
Thanks and <VBG>!!
<<But it is strictly against my vows, religion, and ethnic background to buy
any
mo$$ parts, so I havn't bought parts from Ed.>>
I do have other suppliers. Note the "Product Comparisons" page on my site
(soon to be added to!)
<<But Ed, if you catch this please do send me some Busty, and Hog Wash
2 cans each. Or 2 of all 3.>>
Go tomorrow!
<<You just can't beat his carb cleaner and penetrating oil!>>
Brake Cleaner is BEST on markey IMHO!!
In honor of Frank's "Visit" I have finally gotten around to a "Visits" page.
Please "visit"!!
Ed
Ed Kaler, Proprietor
" Just Brits "
Hinsdale, IL
www.justbrits.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000 at bigpond.net.au>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 02:10:55 +1000
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
Dave,
With all due respect, the key phrases in your post are:
>"Knock occurs because the gasoline's antiknock index ( AKI ) is below the
antiknock requirement of the engine at that MOMENT"
>"........they all provide the SAME power as long as their antiknock
performance meets the engines requirements"
(emphasis is as per your post)
I interpret this to mean that i.e if you put AVGAS 110/130 in a 1930 Austin
7 - running Factory spec below 8:1 compression - with factory set carb and
factory set ignition - it won't make any more power than it would running
the manufacturers specified (octane) fuel.
So what are a Healey 3000 / Healey Sprite 1100/1275's engines requirements?
The factory said you need MIN 96 octane (RON) to meet the factory's
requirement at around 9:1 compression (in a Sprite - they never published
the octane number - to my belief - for a 3000). That is the recommendation
for a STANDARD car - set to factory settings - ignition, carbs etc. Has the
head/ block been skimmed in the past 30 odd years - increasing the
compression ratio? Are flat top pistons fitted?
Show me your engine specs & dyno sheets - mine are already in the public
domain - see:
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey/dyno_sheet.html
As Bob Spidell already correctly posted earlier - 110/130 AVGAS is designed
for light aircraft - airplanes which have a compression ratio UNDER 9:1 .
AVGAS 110/130 is called 110/130 for a reason - a reason not necessarily
related to compression ratio - it is also related to ignition advance &
rich/leanness of the engine. There are also issues related to fuel burn
quality - planes have a more fatally drastic reaction to stalling than
cars - but that is another separate issue....
Dave - I am not having a go at you - or anyone else for that matter.
I know MY Healey needs a minimum 'premium' (over 96 octane) fuel to perform
correctly - because I've tested it scientifically on a Dyno. Similarly - I
haven't yet seen a Healey 3000 which can run to the FACTORY specs for
ignition timing, carb needles etc on 91/92 octane petrol - on a dyno. And
even if it could - why bother risking it the damage you cite for peanuts
anyway? 92 octane unleaded petrol costs 80 - 91 cents per litre here in
Australia - and 98 octane unleaded costs 87 - 98 cents per litre (i.e Shell
has a 7 cent premium on its "Optimax' product - Mobil has a 4 cent premium
on it's '8000 product' etc) . So a 50 litre Healey tank of petrol costs max
$A3.50 (Australian pesodollars) more using 98 octane ULP fuel than using 92
octane ULP - that's about $US.70 more in 'US real dollars' - and I'm pretty
sure you don't pay between $A43.50 - $A49 ($US 23 - $US 27) for your healey
tankful of premium unleaded anyway (and Australia is a 'self sufficient net
exporter' of petrol - work that one out any interested global economists
amongst us.....). As I said earlier - this isn't a leaded/TEL discussion -
just an octane discussion. Make your own arrangements for valve lubrication
with ULP. But I have recently seen some pretty distressing cylinder head/
exhaust valve 'tolerances' since the recent 'illegalisation' of leaded fuel
in Australia. In road cars - not race cars. And this is my hobby - not my
profession. I'll post a 'post mortem' next week on a 100/4 head.
Dave - I'll bet your 100/6 with 2 holed pistons is related to either a
timing problem or a carburettor problem - not a compression issue - and it
could be replicated with the 'same' motor running either AVGAS 110/130 or 89
octane ULP petrol - provided the ignition was over advanced enough - or the
mixture made overlean enough.
As you copied your post to me to 'on the list' - I have also copied this
reply 'on the list'. I also stand by my earlier statements.
Yours in Healeys
Chris
______________________________________
Chris Dimmock
Sydney Australia
1954 BN1 & 1966 BJ8
'one of the first and one of the last'
http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/austinhealey
______________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "frogeye" <frogeye@gateway.net>
To: "Chris Dimmock" <cd3000@bigpond.net.au>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 12:21 AM
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
<SNIP>
> Bottom line? YOU choose. But, I still stand by what I said earlier. To
wit,
> Healeys don't need premium fuel to perform properly.
>
> Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
> '59 AH :{) '54 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 12:36:27 EDT
Subject: Re: 100S car sales
Hi Bill:
Can you tell us who the current owners are of 3501 and 3606?
Thanks in advance.
Regards.
Steve
'54 BN1 "Brutus"
Up on blocks
in Chico, CA
<< Having sold, somewhat recently, 3501, 3504, 3505, 3606, 3605, 3607, 3608,
and 3903 plus the engine of 3801 which was built into a car selling at
auction at Barret Jackson as an authentic car and the parts of 3510 which
the Australians used to "create" another saleable authentic car, I echo the
thoughts that it takes "balls" to purchase any 100S. >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 12:36:18 EDT
Subject: Re: BN1 Distributor Cap
In a message dated 8/28/01 11:33:06 PM, john@jharper.demon.co.uk writes:
<< There
are some made by Lucas around. By the way in the UK we all found it
necessary to fit extra suppressors in the late 1950s. >>
Isn't there some trick where a condensor is hooked up to one of the leads on
the regulator box to provide suppression of ignition interference. I
remember finding one there on a Healey I bought, and hearing one of the old
hands tell me that was why it was there.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From SMickel950 at aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 12:45:55 EDT
Subject: Re: 100S car sales
Hi Bill:
Can you tell us who the current owners are of 3501 and 3606?
Thanks in advance.
Regards.
Steve
'54 BN1 "Brutus"
Up on blocks
in Chico, CA
<< Having sold, somewhat recently, 3501, 3504, 3505, 3606, 3605, 3607, 3608,
and 3903 plus the engine of 3801 which was built into a car selling at
auction at Barret Jackson as an authentic car and the parts of 3510 which
the Australians used to "create" another saleable authentic car, I echo the
thoughts that it takes "balls" to purchase any 100S. >>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 09:59:39 -0700
Subject: factory rally car sold
RM must not have done much marketing to us AH people. Did anyone ever see an
add? Does anyone know the new owner?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
-
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "frogeye" <frogeye at gateway.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 11:27:34 -0600
Subject: octane redux
Listers.
I want to publicly apologize to Chris. My post was not meant as a criticism
of his point(s).
I do not disagree with what he had to say regarding gasoline. I only wanted
to say what I said.
Dave@Taos Garage Annex in Albuquerque
'59 AH :{) '54 BN1
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From john mann <jemann58 at yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 14:10:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: paint
Does anyone know were to buy the auto ICI in the
states.Thanks for your help
john mann
Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Johnsen, Bernard" <JOHNSBE2 at mail.northgrum.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 17:34:25 -0400
Subject: RE: Interstate Battery Number - THANKS
Thanks to Doug Reid (Mr Finespanner) and Ray Owen for your
replies to my battery question. I appreciate it, guys.
- Bernie Johnsen, future DPO 1967 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From bob Townsend <bobt at net66.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 17:47:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Projects wanted.
If anyone on the list is interested in starting a new project, I have 2 nice
projects for sale. I wouldn't normally sell these, but I have lost my garage
space, and must sell one or the other. Number 2 is a 1956 BN-2, that is almost
finished. I am just completing a major brake job, and it is almost ready to
run. It has a very solid frame etc., and the body is presentable, although it
was partially restored about 20 years ago, it has been in storage since. It's
not a show car, but would make a good vintage racer, or an everyday driver.
Number 1 is a 1955 BN-1, that was nicely restored in the last 10 years,
although
it is not quite a show car, it looks great to anyone except the most fussy
Healey
expert. The car spent all of its life in Oregon, and draws crowds everywhere I
take it. I must sell one or the other. Both cars are located in Philo,
Illinois, about 8 miles south of Champaign & Urbana. If interested, send me an
E-mail off the list.
Bob Townsend
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 19:54:34 -0400
Subject: Springs
List:
There was a thread recently about replacing the zinc interleaving on rear
springs. The concept somewhat surprised me since new replacement springs
seem to be widely available at reasonable prices. I had always assumed that
when the time came I would replace both front and rear springs to ensure the
"best" possible suspension.
Is spring replacement necessary or helpful? My rears are rusty and the
interleaving has slipped out in places. I also assume that they have lost
some or much of their original arch. The front springs appear "good as
new", but I don't know any way to confirm that they are up to spec.
Are the replacement springs available of good quality? Should I replace the
obviously worn rears? The not so obviously worn front coils?
Cheers,
John Cope
BT7 Mark II
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Rowe" <jarowe at iprimus.com.au>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 09:23:04 +0800
Subject: Fw: 100S car sales
Hi Reid
There is not much point in giving a reference to your resource book if we
can't access it. Some of us that are 12,000 miles away don't really have a
need to join the Club for day to day items but would appreciate access to
information that is of a more global interest.
Regards
John Rowe
Perth
Western Australia
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Reid Trummel" <AHCUSA@excite.com>
> To: "Rogier van der Mast" <rvdm1@hotmail.com>;
> <healeybill@worldnet.att.net>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 6:28 PM
> Subject: Re: 100S car sales
>
>
> >
> > On Wed, 29 Aug 2001 06:48:30 , Rogier van der Mast wrote:
> >
> > << Well List, I guess we know now at least 8 cars are still alive in the
> > states. There are some in Australia. How many 100S have we now located.
> > Are there still missing? >>
> >
> > "Today, fully 45 of the original 50 production cars are accounted for.
> Six
> > are known to have been written off (destroyed), and 39 are confirmed to
> > still exist. Just 5 examples are missing."
> >
> > Reference: 2001 Austin-Healey Resource Book, page 151. See
> > http://www.healey.org/resource-book.shtml
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 18:41:47 -0700
Subject: Re: BN1 Distributor Cap
Gary Anderson wrote:
> Isn't there some trick where a condensor is hooked up to one of the leads on
> the regulator box to provide suppression of ignition interference. I
> remember finding one there on a Healey I bought, and hearing one of the old
> hands tell me that was why it was there.
>
Gary,
If I'm not mistaken--and I'm sure I'll be corrected if I am :)--the condensor
will only
suppress the noise (e.g. fuel pump "clicks") on the DC power for your own
radio. It will
not suppress the RFI coming from the ignition secondary -- that gets received
through your
antenna (and everybody else's in the vicnity). I think modern radios and TVs
are better
at filtering that noise.
Radio Shack (still) sells a kit consisting of a choke (coiled wire) or a
transformer along with
a capacitor for noise suppression on auto power supplies.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 18:56:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
OK, the (lack of) consensus seems to be that
a. Big Healeys will run fine on 87 octane (regular) autogas
b. Big Healeys need premium (92 octane) or better to run properly
A higher state of tune (compression, timing, mods, etc) will likely require a
higher octane-rated
fuel. I think most of us agree on this. Are the people using regular retarding
their timing?
Or are the rest of us, with stock engines, wasting our money on premium?
The book setting for timing for the BJ8 engine is 15 deg BTDC @ 600 RPM, with
the
advance disconnected. This is fairly agressive initial timing from what I've
seen (8 deg BTDC is
typical of most stock auto engines).
I have to admit I've run my car on 89 and even 87 octane gas with no (obvious)
problems, but
I still feel more comfortable using the highest octane-rated fuel I can get.
You can't always
hear detonation, and by the time you hear it some damage could have been done
(it can
destroy an aircraft engine in seconds, and you likely won't even hear it).
So I guess the answer is: use what you feel comfortable with. If your engine
pings then use
higher octane-rated fuel or set the timing back until it stops pinging.
Sorry for the ramble.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Bridger" <RBridger01 at mediaone.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 22:04:43 -0400
Subject: Springs
John,
Since the quality of replacements part is generally unknown, I'm not inclined
to replace something unless I know it to be bad or I know the replacement will
be an improvement.
As for the rear springs, the shop manual lists the deflection for the various
models which would be a good check. Be sure to check the center bolt as
that's what holds the leafs from sliding around.
My BMC parts manual for a BT 7 lists the height of the unloaded coil spring as
12 1/2". Not sure of this number but it's all I have.
Bob
There was a thread recently about replacing the zinc interleaving on rear
springs. The concept somewhat surprised me since new replacement springs
seem to be widely available at reasonable prices. I had always assumed that
when the time came I would replace both front and rear springs to ensure the
"best" possible suspension.
Is spring replacement necessary or helpful? My rears are rusty and the
interleaving has slipped out in places. I also assume that they have lost
some or much of their original arch. The front springs appear "good as
new", but I don't know any way to confirm that they are up to spec.
Are the replacement springs available of good quality? Should I replace the
obviously worn rears? The not so obviously worn front coils?
Cheers,
John Cope
BT7 Mark II
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Drtrite at aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 22:49:03 EDT
Subject: Tri Healey Meet
Drop the key board and get in your Healey and drive to the 10th annual Tri
Healey meet. The Oklahoma AHC will be hosting this meet in Fayetteville,
Arkansas. Sept. 28-30, 2001
The North Texas AHC web site <www.ntahc.org> has information and also a
registration form you can print and send in before Sept. 7.
If you don't make it, check NTAHC site to see all the fun the people had that
went. We will have coverage on the Past Events page.
Don Lenschow
NTAHC
Sent my registration in today!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Mark Endicott" <mendicott at home.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 22:13:21 -0500
Subject: Re: BN1 Distributor Cap Supressors!!
Bob and Gary
Since I posted the original question regarding suppressor ignition wires
attached to an original style distributor cap that has now migrated to RF
noise on accessories I will tell you what I know. In the mid 60's I worked
for Motorola, Communications Division, and we had many opportunities to try
to detect and resolve RFI issues in cars in the days before electronic
ignitions, alternators and any concern by the manufactures. All of these
problems were related to two way radios in the 30 to 470 MHz bands, the
lower the frequency of the radio the more problems we encountered. These
same problems plagued AM/FM radios installed too. The interference could
render a receiver unusable, so in order to make a sale "stick" we had to fix
it. The things we did varied with each installation and vehicle involved.
To start with we would make sure that the body was one completed ground
circuit by bonding hood and deck lids to the chassis with straps and the
chassis to the frame with more straps. Next we made sure that the drive line
was also grounded to the chassis. Next we would ask the client to install
suppressor wires or install suppressors (resistors) on the spark plug wires
and coil HT lead. Then we would put a .5 MFD coaxial cap in line with the
coil + terminal. The ignition noise was usually gone by this point and
sometimes we were done. If the noise persisted we would start looking at
the generator and the voltage regulator. We would put .5 MFD coaxial
capacitors on the field and battery terminals and field suppressor on the
Field terminal. This suppressor was a series connected low value resistor
(50 Ohm?) in series with a .002 capacitor to ground. Once again this usually
solved the problem but if not we continued to look for anything that made a
spark causing the interference, on more than one occasion I had to return to
repair heater fan noise when winter came along. We even had a carbon powder
we put in tires to eliminate wheel static. All of these noises were
radiated and not carried to the receiver by the power bus. When alternators
were present we would hear a whine in the speaker that varied with engine
speed. Alternator noise was generally not radiated (no spark) and could be
eliminated with a choke and capacitor on the positive feed to the radio.
When early anti-lock brakes came along we had a whole new set of challenges,
but we don't have to worry about that.
All of this background leads me to the conclusion that I want suppressor
wires and I will have them. If Donald Healey had wanted a radio in his car
he would have done what ever it took to make it work. I am still involved
in radio, long ago and once again called wireless, and I have a sensitivity
to being a polluter of the airways.
Now to those that wondered how to make a suppressor wire stay tightly
attached to an original style cap I have figured out a very simple way. Use
7 mm wire and push the center of the wire down on the post to the bottom of
the cap. Next put a small "O" ring over the wire and screw the cap down
sung on the "O" ring which compresses the wire and makes it very tight and
probably waterproof too. I show that the connection does not increase the
resistance of the wire so it must be good and tight.
Gary, I might have put that suppressor on the car you had with one.
It's a slow night!
Mark
Nashville
BN1
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@pacbell.net>
:
: Gary Anderson wrote:
:
: > Isn't there some trick where a condensor is hooked up to one of the
leads on
: > the regulator box to provide suppression of ignition interference. I
: > remember finding one there on a Healey I bought, and hearing one of the
old
: > hands tell me that was why it was there.
: >
:
:
: Gary,
:
: If I'm not mistaken--and I'm sure I'll be corrected if I am :)--the
condensor will only
: suppress the noise (e.g. fuel pump "clicks") on the DC power for your own
radio. It will
: not suppress the RFI coming from the ignition secondary -- that gets
received through your
: antenna (and everybody else's in the vicnity). I think modern radios and
TVs are better
: at filtering that noise.
:
: Radio Shack (still) sells a kit consisting of a choke (coiled wire) or a
transformer along with
: a capacitor for noise suppression on auto power supplies.
:
: Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 18:31:42 +1000
Subject: Snookering Viruses
Hi All
As we all know, viruses are now part of the technological age. The following
will not stop your PC from being infected with a virus, but it will stop it
from spreading to your friends and business associates.
Most viruses spread by automatically emailing itself to ALL contacts in the
address book of the infected PC. By following the below method it will save
you from the embarrassing situation of having to tell all your friends and
associates that you may have inadvertently mailed them a virus.
The method:
In your address book add a contact as just AAAAAA. This will make it the
first address in your address book. Do not give it an email address.
If you do get infected with a virus, when it tries to forward itself to all
in your address book, you will receive an error message
"The message could not be sent.
One or more recipients do not have an email address"
Simply go to your outbox and delete the message. You then only have to worry
about cleaning up your own PC.
If you forward this message to all your contacts then the chances of them
sending you are a virus will also be reduced.
Hope this helps
Greg
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Brashear, Jack, N" <jnbrashear at GarverInc.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 09:35:21 -0500
Subject: Hood Louvers
Hi Listers, I have an extra center crease hood and a local professional is
going to punch louvers in it for me. I don't care a rip for "value" or
Concours, I just want a louvered hood. There is no cross-brace like a 3000
hood. I would appreciate feedback on the number and position of the
louvers. Is this bad for the engine bay?? I've seen lots of louvered
hoods at Healey Conclaves and other meets, but I've never discussed them
with the owners. All feedback except criticism will be appreciated. Thanks
in advance for your help!!
Jack Brashear
Little Rock, Arkansas
[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 07:43:33 -0700
Subject: RE: 100S car sales
The 100S Register may still be on austinhealey.com but it is quite out dated
now.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John Snyder" <johnahsn at olypen.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 07:48:08 -0700
Subject: non A-H question
Could someone out there tell me if a standard tubular automotive shock
absorber (such as what is installed on the rear axle of a Ford pick-up)
will function properly if it is installed in a horizontal position (instead
of vertical)? Will some brands work, while others do not?
I'm trying to dampen the bouncing of a street sweeper which is installed on
the rear of a tractor.
TIA for any help you can give me
John Snyder (4 3000s)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken)
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 07:57:53 -0700
Subject: RE: Hood Louvers
I think the only function of hood louvers is to help heat escape when the
car is stationary. Do a yarn tape test and see which way the air flows in
those areas at speed. Healey rally cars never had them.
It certainly makes washing the car more difficult. You have to cover the
engine with a towel before starting the process or you will have water spots
on the engine.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
ex 100S with louvers
74 Jensen Interceptor with louvers
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 11:19:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Hood Louvers
Remember there is one big problem with the louvers in the hood. We have
several customers that have done it and now they regret ever doing it. The
heat that is pulled out of the engine compartment thru the louvers goes
straight over the windshield and into the cockpit of the car directly into
the drivers face.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Kocik, Stephen W" <Stephen.Kocik at unisys.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 13:47:11 -0400
Subject: buyer beware
Noticed a non-running tri-carb engine and tranny on ebay item # 594888532.
Engine number is 29DRUH1378. As I remember, Gary, correct me if I'm wrong.
The 29D engines were dual carbs not tri-carbs.... It is listed at $200 but
with an unknown reserve. FYI
Steve
61BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 11:38:36 -0700
Subject: PALO ALTO SHOW--ALTERNATIVE
One of our Golden Gate Austin Healey Club members, Austin Kilburn
(Saratoga), gave me a heads up on the Santa Rosa Concours set for
September 9. I contacted the people up there and here is their reply:
Our deadline for cars for judging is tomorrow 8-30 at 5 PM, which will
be a
problem unless you can get an app off the email at
www.santarosaconcours.com and fax it (707-575-5122) to me -I cannot
accept email applications.
If anyone wants to display and not be judged I would still need an app
and entry fee, but I can accept later submissions.
The other option is to bring some people as a group - it may not be too
late to get a corral spot set aside. If you're interested in that email
Charlie at cniles@sonic. net.
If there's any interest in group participation, let me know and I'll see
if we can't get corral space. John Trifari
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From AerOps <aerops00 at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 13:31:31 -0700
Subject: RE: Antique Auto Battery
Larry
I just put 2 6volt (in series) in my BN7 and they appear to work fine. Only
3 starts on them so far tho. I took the batteries to Interstate Battery and
had them load electrolyte and charge. So far no problems.
FYI the Antique batteries (at least the 6 volt) are much shorter than those
you can get from Interstate.
Rgds
George Cooper
60 BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 17:16:48 EDT
Subject: parts supplier recommendation
A while back we aired our gripes about parts suppliers who regularly send out
wrong and/or defective parts. I had this happen to me a few months ago when
I ordered some halogen bulbs for my PL700 tribars from someone (no name
mentioned online) who claimed to have the right product. The ones I received
were way wrong and the seller then suggested that I try to sell them to
someone else! I returned the bulbs and have yet to receive a refund....
On the brighter side, the other day I spoke with Jeff Zorn of Little British
Car Co. He assured me that he had the right item (and at about 1/2 the price
of "the other guy"). Today the bulbs arrrived and they fit. LBC's website
is fun and informative--these are nice folks to do business with.
No financial interest, yada yada yada...
Michael Oritt--100 LeMans
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Johnsen, Bernard" <JOHNSBE2 at mail.northgrum.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 17:27:13 -0400
Subject: Replies to the Healeylist (was Interstate Battery Number)
-----Original Message-----
From: Editorgary@aol.com [mailto:Editorgary@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 5:46 PM
To: Johnsen, Bernard
Subject: Re: Interstate Battery Number - THANKS
(snip)
(snip)
so what was the answer?
Cheers
gary
Hi Gary -
Ray Owen said he uses an Interstate "Mega-Tron" MT-34 in his
positive ground BJ8. Doug Reid told me to ask for a Group 27 type
battery. He said the Group 24 or Group 22 will not have as much
cranking power when the weather turns colder. He also said that
within the Group 27, I can probably find a terminal configuration
that will suit my car.
Your email to me, asking what the answer was, raises another
point. Lately on the Healey list, I see people posting questions,
and then a day or two later they post a "thank you" for the replies
they received. Since in many cases I did not see any replies posted
to the Healey list, I assume the replies were sent to them off line
-
i.e. not to the Healey list. Of course each person who replies is
free to choose whether or not to make the reply public, but I for
one
miss reading them. In the past I have always been interested in
hearing
answers to Healey related questions, even if I was not the one that
asked the question. Over the years I have been "lurking" on this
list,
I have learned a great deal, often about subjects I never even
dreamed
of asking about. So my request to those of you who respond to
people's
questions is, could you post the answer to the list? I am sure I
am
not alone in wishing to read as much useful Healey information as I
can get. Thanks , folks.
- Bernie Johnsen, future DPO 1967 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From John Trifari <john4 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 14:48:46 -0700
Subject: GGAHC EVENT ALERT
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 16:53:46 -0500
Subject: Re: parts supplier recommendation
Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
> I had this happen to me a few months ago when
> I ordered some halogen bulbs for my PL700 tribars from someone (no name
> mentioned online) who claimed to have the right product. The ones I received
> were way wrong and the seller then suggested that I try to sell them to
> someone else! I returned the bulbs and have yet to receive a refund....
I'd be curious about the first vendor! There are more of those out there than
we
need. I think the facts are not slanderous--you sent the money and he/she sent
the wrong stuff and wouldn't make it right.
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 15:26:35 -0700
Subject: Re: parts supplier recommendation
At 5:16 PM -0400 8/30/01, Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>A while back we aired our gripes about parts suppliers who regularly send out
>wrong and/or defective parts. I had this happen to me a few months ago when
>I ordered some halogen bulbs for my PL700 tribars from someone (no name
>mentioned online) who claimed to have the right product. The ones I received
>were way wrong and the seller then suggested that I try to sell them to
>someone else! I returned the bulbs and have yet to receive a refund....
On this topic .. I know there has been a lot of discussion with
regards to after market parts. I recently had a very positive
experience with our friends at Moss over some faulty items.
I felt this was an appropriate topic to give them credit where it is due.
Rohan
BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 18:40:21 EDT
Subject: Re: buyer beware
In a message dated 8/30/01 10:49:22 AM, Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com writes:
<< The 29D engines were dual carbs not tri-carbs.... It is listed at $200 but
with an unknown reserve. FYI >>
Good pick -- the tri-carbs were 29E engines. And, interesting, this is a low
serial number, so the engine was built in 1959. Must have had a triple carb
manifold installed at some point, but definitely not a pukka tri-carb engine.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Wiley" <wileyrob at pacifier.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 16:08:46 -0700
Subject: Re: buyer beware
Gary - I noticed the funny number but had not had time to check it out.
Didn't look anything like my numbers on my two tri-carbs.
Bob 62 BN7 & BT 7 Tri-carbs
----------
>From: Editorgary@aol.com
>To: Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com, healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: buyer beware
>Date: Thu, Aug 30, 2001, 3:40 PM
>
>
> In a message dated 8/30/01 10:49:22 AM, Stephen.Kocik@unisys.com writes:
>
> << The 29D engines were dual carbs not tri-carbs.... It is listed at $200 but
> with an unknown reserve. FYI >>
>
> Good pick -- the tri-carbs were 29E engines. And, interesting, this is a low
> serial number, so the engine was built in 1959. Must have had a triple carb
> manifold installed at some point, but definitely not a pukka tri-carb engine.
>
> Cheers
> Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "eugene faust" <ejfaust at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 16:52:50 -0400
Subject: Status report on BN2L231450
The doors, fenders, hood, trunk lid, seats and windshield are off. I was
pleasantly surprised at how easily everything came apart. Even the wheels
slid easily off the splines after 26 years. On my last project car I had to
use a torch to loosen most of the nuts and bolts. It looks as though I am
going to have to replace the sills, rocker panels and floorboards. I am now
pondering whether to remove the aluminum shroud and rear deck. As they are
in good condition I 'm inclined to leave them where they are.
I am now at the stage where I have to slow down and be more methodical
about removing all of the smaller mechanical and electrical bits. I have
had some problems in the past when trying to find the little parts and
figuring out where to put them. I have taken about a dozen pictures of the
wiring harness as it seems to wander somewhat willy nilly around the engine
compartment.
I spent almost all of yesterday driving around town making deliveries. The
radiator went out for a new core, the generator, starter and voltage
regulator to be checked out and rebuilt if necessary, doors and fenders to
have the paint stripped and finally to have an extra key made. When the
locksmith asked me what kind of car it was for, I told him a AH 100 and the
guy in line behind me said " I have one of those." Well, now I know that
mine is not the only one in the neighborhood.
Now for some feedback re my question about the mod kits for the rear main
bearing seal. The majority of respondents who had installed one replied
that they doubted that the kit had noticeably reduced the oil leakage.
Gene ( With only four skinned knuckles so far)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From kerowako <kerowako at home.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 17:13:14 -0700
Subject: Re: Healeys and auction prices
I, for one, miss the days when you could get a decent Healey for $1200.
Some of us own these cars, not for the damn investment, but for the pure and
simple love and enjoyment of the cars. Those who buy them for other reasons
help to remove them from the financial reach of many. Supply and demand doesn't
in my view justify some of the absurd prices that Healey's are starting to bring
(Sebring models excepted).
Same trend is going on all around.....I can't believe my $400 (20 yrs ago)
Triumph Bonneville is now probably worth $7K plus. These machines are wonderful,
but they're NOT that special.
Fred Meyer
Longbridge BN4
Arjay wrote:
> Why is everybody so down on Healeys bringing high prices? Someone said
> that $70,000 plus Healey was a sure sign of the economy getting ready to
> unglue itself.
>
> What is the possibility that Healeys are gaining the interest of serious
> collectors and are going up in value? I think they are I, for one,
> cracked open a bottle of Champagne upon hearing the results of the
> Pebble Beach Auction and hope the Australian 100-S goes well over
> $100,000 US.
>
> Those of you who perceive your cars as next to worthless should get rid
> of them. What's a Fiat 1100 powered Cisitalia roadster worth $200,000
> more than an Austin powered Healey. Both did well in the Mille Miglias.
>
> You have to stop thinking like listing realtors and more like car
> collectors.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 20:19:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Hood Louvers
Jack,
Paul Schwartz is an expert on Healey hood louvers. I would suggest
consulting with him on your questions. His email is: lucashly@aol.com
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "tom felts" <tfelts at prodigy.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 21:00:31 -0400
Subject: She's Back
Went to Newark and picked up my BJ8 from the dock. For those who don't know
the story, I shipped it to Europe and toured for 45 days. Shipping was a
pretty good experience for me. No damage and nothing stolen. Nice to have
her home!
tom
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 20:33:52 EDT
Subject: Re: parts supplier recommendation
In a message dated 8/30/2001 3:35:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rohan@marketocracy.com writes:
>
> On this topic .. I know there has been a lot of discussion with
> regards to after market parts. I recently had a very positive
> experience with our friends at Moss over some faulty items.
>
> I felt this was an appropriate topic to give them credit where it is due.
>
> Rohan
> BN4
>
I also had a very positive experience with Moss Motors on resolving a parts
problem.
John
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 18:41:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Healeys and auction prices
In 1975 I missed the chance to by a BJ8 for $2,700 because I was a poor
student. After waiting and wanting for 25 plus years I was able to buy a 65
BJ8, for $12,000,
very little rust but requiring total restoration. No point I guess, just
an observation.
Sid 65 BJ8
> I, for one, miss the days when you could get a decent Healey for $1200.
>
> that $70,000 plus Healey was a sure sign of the economy getting ready to
> > unglue itself.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 19:44:14 -0500
Subject: Re: parts supplier recommendation
<<On this topic .. I know there has been a lot of discussion with
regards to after market parts. I recently had a very positive
experience with our friends at Moss over some faulty items.
I felt this was an appropriate topic to give them credit where it is due.>>
er, about WHAT, Rohan?? Kinda help to know.
Also see "Product Comparisons" at www.justbrits.com
Best.....
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Russ & Natalie Bamsey" <ia549 at worldchat.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 21:28:33 -0400
Subject: Re: non A-H question
Hello John and listers;
Most common tube type shocks will not work in the horizontal
position as the oil reservoir is in the bottom of the shock and will allow
the shock to suck air and cavitate when not in the upright position. What
you could use is a front steering stabilizer ( shock designed to work
horizontally ) from a four wheel drive pickup or similar vehicle.
Hope this helps...Russ Bamsey
----- Original Message -----
From: John Snyder <johnahsn@olypen.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 10:48 AM
Subject: non A-H question
>
> Could someone out there tell me if a standard tubular automotive shock
> absorber (such as what is installed on the rear axle of a Ford pick-up)
> will function properly if it is installed in a horizontal position
(instead
> of vertical)? Will some brands work, while others do not?
>
> I'm trying to dampen the bouncing of a street sweeper which is installed
on
> the rear of a tractor.
>
> TIA for any help you can give me
>
> John Snyder (4 3000s)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From tom Blaskovics <u2347 at wvnvm.wvnet.edu>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 21:23:14 -0400
Subject: vent wing caps
I was looking in the Restoration book on page 165 at the
detail of the vent. Is there a cap that fits on the top of
the vent window? MOSS on page 164 is vague. (item #160)
. The top of the vent window is really very sharp
scratched my arm something fierce. If you have any suggestions
I would appreciate them >>
Thanks
Tom Blaskovics (U2347@WVNVM.WVNET.EDU)
ACHA, ACHUSA
BJ7 Registry
HBJ7L/22380
Back on the Road......finally
MB 450 SL
Morgantown, WV
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "John W. Cope" <naku at wayxcable.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 21:37:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Healeys and auction prices
Sid:
For what it's worth, applying the Consumer Price index figures for 1975 and
today, $2700 in 1975 is the equivalent of $9128.57 in today's dollars. Not
so terribly different from the $12,000 you paid, assuming equal condition.
Somehow, though, buying it for $2700 when you were young and in love still
sounds a lot better.
Cheers,
John
62 BT7 Mark II
----- Original Message -----
From: "bronson" <bron@rmci.net>
To: "kerowako" <kerowako@home.com>
Cc: "Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: Healeys and auction prices
>
> In 1975 I missed the chance to by a BJ8 for $2,700 because I was a poor
> student. After waiting and wanting for 25 plus years I was able to buy a
65
> BJ8, for $12,000,
> very little rust but requiring total restoration. No point I guess, just
> an observation.
> Sid 65 BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RobertH148 at aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 21:44:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Clausager's Original A-H
Let's hope they correct all the errors in the previous edition.
Bob Humphreys
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From TRICARB at aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 22:01:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Flywheel
Hi Jim,
The flywheels are identified as follows:
BN1Early - a heavy ridge and the pressure plate bolts are 10 5/8" apart.
It uses a 9" clutch plate.
BN1Late - BN6 bolt holes are 10 5/8" apart and it uses a 9" clutch plate.
BN7-BJ7 the bolt holes are 11 5/8" apart and they use a 10" plate
BJ8 has three alignment pins for the pressure plate and uses a 9.5" plate.
BTW the lightened flywheels for the BN6 are $120 plus a $40 core charge
if not exchanged.
Cheers, Bill
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rohan Marr <rohan at marketocracy.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 18:47:45 -0700
Subject: Re: parts supplier recommendation
At 7:44 PM -0500 8/30/01, JustBrits wrote:
><<On this topic .. I know there has been a lot of discussion with
>regards to after market parts. I recently had a very positive
>experience with our friends at Moss over some faulty items.
>
>I felt this was an appropriate topic to give them credit where it is due.>>
>
>er, about WHAT, Rohan?? Kinda help to know.
>
>Also see "Product Comparisons" at www.justbrits.com
>
>Best.....
>
> Ed
I knew someone would think me vague ... I would think it wouldn't
matter what parts in particular? In my case the parts (rear shocks)
that were leaking after some time will be replaced.
I am extremely impressed with the professionalism and promptness of
the Moss representative.
I hope that clarifies the issue.
Rohan
BN4.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 22:29:42 -0400
Subject: engine question
Today the oilpan was removed from the bj8 I'm considering purchasing.
I was told the rod bearings were found to be worn, crankshaft perfect, problem
with the camshaft. Their replacing the camshaft(with original), 12 cam
followers, main seal and rod bearings. The engine was overhauled 4 years ago
with high performance pistons, still good,( 020 main bearing .020 under rod
bearing, .030over piston set) and the cam was ground, supposedly a phase two
competion when previously overhauled) My question? I know nothing about what I
just posted, and is what being done all that needs to be done?? Should I stay
away from this? Thanks in advance of help.
Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 22:35:20 -0400
Subject: Re: parts supplier recommendation
> I ordered some halogen bulbs for my PL700 tribars from someone (no name
> mentioned online) who claimed to have the right product. The ones I
received
> were way wrong and the seller then suggested that I try to sell them to
> someone else! I returned the bulbs and have yet to receive a refund....
This sort of crap wouldn't happen if folks were not afraid to mention names.
Protecting the guilty is why markets occasionally fail. Tell us who the
miserable slime bucket is, so we can all be fore warned and fore armed. He
can then go to his grave with a giant inventory of halogen bulbs!
Lee Mairs
62 BT7 Tri-carb
Children who know how to think for themselves spoil the harmony of the
collective society which is coming where everyone is interdependent.
--John Dewey, 1899
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 22:48:14 EDT
Subject: Re: parts supplier recommendation
In a message dated 8/30/01 10:40:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:
<< This sort of crap wouldn't happen if folks were not afraid to mention
names.
Protecting the guilty is why markets occasionally fail. Tell us who the
miserable slime bucket is, so we can all be fore warned and fore armed. He
can then go to his grave with a giant inventory of halogen bulbs! >>
Lee--
You have such a wonderful way with words.... I have had numerous enquiries
from others on the list as to who I was talking about, but I'd rather be a
source of a POSITIVE reference (such as to LBC in this case).
Best--Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Lee S. Mairs" <lmairs at cox.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 23:06:46 -0400
Subject: Re: parts supplier recommendation
That is the problem with liberals! You'd prefer the government regulate the
halogen bulb market because you are afraid of offending the little cheat.
Of course, then the price of halogen bulbs will rise three times as "honest"
suppliers have to comply with silly rules that have no impact. All you have
to do is tell the rest of us who cheated you with malice of forethought, and
your buddies would be spared a similar fate.
Don't get me wrong. Positive reference is great; but the negative reference
saves your fellow Healeyites from similar fraud.
Lee
One of the most fashionable notions of our times is that social problems
like
poverty and oppression breed wars. Most wars, however, are started by
well-fed
people with time on their hands to dream up half-baked ideologies or
grandiose
ambitions, and to nurse real or imagined grievances.
--Thomas Sowell
> << This sort of crap wouldn't happen if folks were not afraid to mention
> names.
> Protecting the guilty is why markets occasionally fail. Tell us who the
> miserable slime bucket is, so we can all be fore warned and fore armed.
He
> can then go to his grave with a giant inventory of halogen bulbs! >>
>
> Lee--
>
> You have such a wonderful way with words.... I have had numerous
enquiries
> from others on the list as to who I was talking about, but I'd rather be a
> source of a POSITIVE reference (such as to LBC in this case).
>
> Best--Michael
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Richard J. Hockert, Esq." <rjh.co at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 22:48:21 -0500
Subject: Re: engine question
>Today the oilpan was removed from the bj8 I'm considering purchasing.
>I was told the rod bearings were found to be worn, crankshaft perfect,
problem
>with the camshaft. Their replacing the camshaft(with original), 12 cam
>followers, main seal and rod bearings. The engine was overhauled 4 years ago
>with high performance pistons, still good,( 020 main bearing .020 under rod
>bearing, .030over piston set) and the cam was ground, supposedly a phase two
>competion when previously overhauled) My question? I know nothing about
what I
>just posted, and is what being done all that needs to be done?? Should I stay
>away from this? Thanks in advance of help.
Dave:
It is next to impossible to judge the quality of the overhaul done four years
ago and the current status of your potential purchase without being there.
However, you may want to consider the following comments:
1. You stated that the rod bearings were bad. But the rod bearing journals
are
perfect if I read your message correctly. It is very surprising that they
would have gone away in four years (probably 10,000 to 12,000 miles).
Something was not done correctly, either in the rebuild or the maintenance of
the car.
2. You should fit both rod and main bearings when rebuilding the lower end of
the engine. The bearings are not that expensive. .20 undersize bearings
are
readily available. Make sure the engine builder uses plastiguage to check
the
bearing clearances and shims the clearances to factory spec. Also, use
assembly lube and spin the engine over to circulate the oil before starting it
(take out the spark plugs)
3. The camshaft bearing problem and lifter/lobe problem also make me wonder
about the assembly on the last rebuild. They may have reused the old lifters
with the reprofiled camshaft - a no no. Again, use assembly lube and spin the
engine before starting. You stated that you are installing a new camshaft and
new lifters - right?
You are not using the old cam.
4. You should carefully check the crankshaft journals for runout, both main
and rod. If they are true, the engine can be reassembled without having to
remove the crankshaft. If the journals are not true or there is scarring or
pitting, the crank should be removed for a more thorough rebuild.
5. When you have the connecting rods loose, check for play in the pin end of
the rod i.e. where it connects to the piston. There should be no play.
You are going to have to trust your rebuilder. Spend some time checking his
references. Hopefully, he is not the one who rebuilt the engine four years
ago.
Best regards
Jim Hockert
BJ8 Rallye
Dallas, TX
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Dick Brill <dickb01 at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 00:09:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Octane Redux
I've been watching this discussion with great interest.
This afternoon I spent a couple of hours at my local general aviation airstrip
(it was too windy to
fly my RC plane) and I noticed that there were two pumps for refueling the
aircraft - one labeled 100
octane and the other 80 octane. The manager told me that the local refinery
(Koch) makes up a batch
of 80 octane once a year for all of the local general aviation fields.
So I wonder what currently flying small planes use this 80 octane stuff; what
engines they have and
what compression ratio, etc. I would guess that there must be lots out there
to justify a dedicated
pump ( and one out of two at that) at an FBO.
BTW my BT7 Tri-carb is stock or perhaps slightly higher compression (due to a
head clean-up or two)
and I run Regular Unleaded (87 octane) and the static timing is at 15 BTDC and
I have no knock except
once in a blue moon when I really lug the engine in too tall a gear on a severe
upslope - in which
case I downshift and get back to "silent running"
DickB
Bob Spidell wrote:
> OK, the (lack of) consensus seems to be that
>
> a. Big Healeys will run fine on 87 octane (regular) autogas
>
> b. Big Healeys need premium (92 octane) or better to run properly
>
> A higher state of tune (compression, timing, mods, etc) will likely require a
>higher octane-rated
> fuel. I think most of us agree on this. Are the people using regular
>retarding their timing?
> Or are the rest of us, with stock engines, wasting our money on premium?
>
> The book setting for timing for the BJ8 engine is 15 deg BTDC @ 600 RPM, with
>the
> advance disconnected. This is fairly agressive initial timing from what I've
>seen (8 deg BTDC is
> typical of most stock auto engines).
>
> I have to admit I've run my car on 89 and even 87 octane gas with no
>(obvious) problems, but
> I still feel more comfortable using the highest octane-rated fuel I can get.
>You can't always
> hear detonation, and by the time you hear it some damage could have been done
>(it can
> destroy an aircraft engine in seconds, and you likely won't even hear it).
>
> So I guess the answer is: use what you feel comfortable with. If your engine
>pings then use
> higher octane-rated fuel or set the timing back until it stops pinging.
>
> Sorry for the ramble.
>
> Bob
>
> ***********************************************************************
> Bob Spidell
>bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
> San Jose, CA.
>robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
> `67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
>PP/ASEL
> ***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Donald Shields <dons300 at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 01:50:25 -0400
Subject: [Fwd: Fwd: FUNNY]
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From: "Sandy Goldberg" <sanjer60@hotmail.com>
To: dons300@earthlink.net
Subject: Fwd: FUNNY
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 06:45:46 -0400
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>From: EDMAR604@aol.com
>To: Nypnx21133@aol.com, WCIESLEWICZ@earthlink.net, MANDT73@mindspring.com,
> BoJoFi1@aol.com, JFREITAS@tampabay.rr.com, BAGEL8@aol.com,
>SANJER60@hotmail.com, joegubeli@knology.net, Bucs3683@aol.com,
>ChiefAF01@aol.com, Shelltpa@aol.com
>Subject: Fwd: FUNNY
>Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:50:53 EDT
>
>
>
>
> > She went down to the docks and was about to leap into the frigid water
>when
> > a handsome young sailor saw her tottering on the edge of the pier,
>crying.
> > He took pity on her and said, "Look, you've got a lot to live for. I'm
>off
> > to Europe in the morning, and if you like, I can stow you away on my
>ship.
> > I'll take good care of you and bring you food every day.
> > After all, what did she have to lose?
> > That night, the sailor brought her aboard and hid her in a lifeboat.
>From
> > then on, every night he brought her three sandwiches and a piece of
>fruit,
> > and they made passionate love until dawn.
> > Three weeks later, during a routine inspection, she was discovered by
>the
> > Captain. "What are you doing here?" the Captain asked.
> > "I have an arrangement with one of the sailors," she explained. "I get
> > food and a trip to Europe, and he's screwing me."
> > "He sure is lady," the Captain said. "This is the Staten Island Ferry."
> >
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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From: "DEE JAY" <Yucatan.Dav@gte.net>
To: "IBM" <DCOTTON@tampabay.rr.com>, "Luscious"
<PostalAngel2001@hotmail.com>, "Bilbo Baggins"
<yucatan.dav@verizon.net>
Subject: FUNNY
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 00:43:04 -0400
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FUNNY
She went down to the docks and was about to leap into the frigid water when
a handsome young sailor saw her tottering on the edge of the pier, crying.
He took pity on her and said, "Look, you've got a lot to live for. I'm off
to Europe in the morning, and if you like, I can stow you away on my ship.
I'll take good care of you and bring you food every day.
After all, what did she have to lose?
That night, the sailor brought her aboard and hid her in a lifeboat. From
then on, every night he brought her three sandwiches and a piece of fruit,
and they made passionate love until dawn.
Three weeks later, during a routine inspection, she was discovered by the
Captain. "What are you doing here?" the Captain asked.
"I have an arrangement with one of the sailors," she explained. "I get
food and a trip to Europe, and he's screwing me."
"He sure is lady," the Captain said. "This is the Staten Island Ferry."
Holla at ya girl
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 23:03:13 -0700
Subject: shut pillar gusset question
I am to the point on our BN1 where I need to establish the location of
the triangular gusset that braces the bottom of the shut pillar
against the sill/rocker. Kilmartin makes the repair part. I don't
see it listed separately in my copy of the parts book.
The triangle has two edges stiffened by 90 degree folds along the
edges, and one plain edge. Playing with the triangle it is clear (at
least I think it is clear) that the piece fits snuggly against the
shut pillar and sill (or rocker) only with one particular corner
tucked into the lower, forward spot. That leaves two ways to set the
triangle in: one with the plain edge against the shut pillar, and the
folded edges facing toward the centerline of the car, and one with the
plain edge along the sill/rocker and the folded edges facing outwards.
Which one is the way the factory did it? I guess I hope it is the
second way because it looks easier to weld it neatly and it looks
easier to keep clean. One friend recalls that the folded edges point
towards the midline of the car.
Another item unclear to me is whether the base of the triangle fits
against the folded vertical flange of the rocker panel, which lies
against the outer sill; or whether the triangle is welded to the
rocker panel somewhere near the outer edge area of the rocker. My
only comparison vehicle is our BJ7 which has too much rust damage
there to be able to tell for sure. I wouldn't trust the work to match
the original, anyhow.
All observations and recollections gratefully received.
-Roland
'53 BN1, '63 BJ7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Magnus Karlsson" <healey at telia.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 08:02:36 +0200
Subject: SV: vent wing caps
On top of the vent window frame there should be a rubber piece. The rear
corner, it also in a way acts as a stop for the side window.
Magnus Karlsson
SWEDEN
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Spidell <bspidell at pacbell.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 23:22:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Octane Redux - NO HEALEY CONTENT PER SE
Dick Brill wrote:
> So I wonder what currently flying small planes use this 80 octane stuff; what
>engines they have and
> what compression ratio, etc. I would guess that there must be lots out there
>to justify a dedicated
> pump ( and one out of two at that) at an FBO.
Small displacement, low-compression 4 cylinder-engined planes. Usually,
they're at or under 200 ci
displacement and have a compression ratio between 7:1 and 8:1. These engines
cannot stand
the TEL (tetra-ethyl lead) added to 100 "Low Lead" to get the higher octane.
The low BMEP--and
subsequent lower combustion temperatures--leaves the lead as a residue that
fouls plugs and rings.
Examples include Piper Cubs, Luscombes, Taylorcraft, and early Cessna 150s,
170s and even
some 172s. Most of these can run just fine on autogas, and STCs (Supplemental
Type Certificates)
have been acquired so that they can (legally) do so. Still, the owners
typically mix in some 100LL
now and then to coat the valves and seats. If 80 octane is available most
owners will use it, but
it's not available at some airports so the owners have to truck and pump their
own autogas. They
have to be careful since autogas formulations vary from place to place and from
season to season.
They have to check for water (and other) contaminates and should check the
vapor pressure before
pumping.
I honestly don't think anybody makes much money off 80-octane, or even 100LL.
I have to believe
some petrol company managements have a soft spot for general aviation. Oil
company folks may be our
allies--believe it or not--I think a lot of them are car and airplane nuts at
heart. Shell, Mobil, Philips
and others appear to spend a disproportionate amount on R&D for general
aviation, given the
small volume relative to autos and commercial aviation (Mobil 1 was first
formulated for airplanes).
My opinion only, I'm not affiliated in any way with an oil company, though I
did work for Shell
Laboratories many moons ago.
One other side note: Mobil 1 is no longer formulated for aircraft, having been
blamed for
allowing lead buildup (in the ring landings of large displacement Continental
engines in particular).
The theory is the molecule was too refined to scavenge the lead properly.
Bob
***********************************************************************
Bob Spidell
bspidell@pacbell.net (home)
San Jose, CA.
robert_spidell@phoenix.com (work)
`67 Austin-Healey 3000 (mine) `56 100M (Dad's)
PP/ASEL
***********************************************************************
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Andy" <healey-100 at hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 20:37:17 -0700
Subject: Re: engine question
Sounds alright. your engine builder wants to get you away from a cam with
higher ramp speeds and high lift. He is going for reliability. Accelerating
your valves open with steeper ramps on your cam tends to beat up your
lifters and If your not racing and pulling your engine apart for inspection
and repair often, there is no reason to run a cam that is more than what you
need, the trade off in reliability is often not worth it for a car that is a
driver. I think you will Like the high compression pistons, however you
will need to run 92 octane. If your engine builder was going for the
money he would have told you to re-machine the crank and you would have had
no way to know if he was being honest.
hope this helps.
Aloha Andy
I feel I must disclose the fact that I have a hotter than stock cam, my
lifters are pitted and my Healey doesn't run!
Andy
---- Original Message -----
From: <caudle1@home.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 7:29 PM
Subject: engine question
>
> Today the oilpan was removed from the bj8 I'm considering purchasing.
> I was told the rod bearings were found to be worn, crankshaft perfect,
problem
> with the camshaft. Their replacing the camshaft(with original), 12 cam
> followers, main seal and rod bearings. The engine was overhauled 4 years
ago
> with high performance pistons, still good,( 020 main bearing .020 under
rod
> bearing, .030over piston set) and the cam was ground, supposedly a phase
two
> competion when previously overhauled) My question? I know nothing about
what I
> just posted, and is what being done all that needs to be done?? Should I
stay
> away from this? Thanks in advance of help.
> Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 16:39:21 +1000
Subject: Re: Snookering Viruses
Hi Steve
I did not mean to infer that it was a replacement for good anti-virus
software but as an adjunct to help stop viruses from spreading. I also have
anti-virus software and update the pattern file weekly.
I have tried this method using Outlook Express and when the contact without
an email address is found the message does not get sent to ANYONE. The
message just waits in the outbox, unsent.
Greg
> Greg and all,
> Thanks, but, I'm not sure this is really going to help. The virus
> will just continue through your address book, it won't stop just because a
> message is undeliverable. It's best to have a good virus scanner such as
> Norton, so that they can't get in to begin with. Why risk it? It's not
> worth the aggravation.
>
> Steve
> 61BN7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Awgertoo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 06:50:27 EDT
Subject: Re: parts supplier recommendation
In a message dated 8/30/01 11:09:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lmairs@cox.rr.com writes:
<< That is the problem with liberals! You'd prefer the government regulate
the
halogen bulb market because you are afraid of offending the little cheat.
Of course, then the price of halogen bulbs will rise three times as "honest"
suppliers have to comply with silly rules that have no impact. All you have
to do is tell the rest of us who cheated you with malice of forethought, and
your buddies would be spared a similar fate.
Don't get me wrong. Positive reference is great; but the negative reference
saves your fellow Healeyites from similar fraud. >>
Lee--
I simply feel that this and other public forums are probably not the place
for slams and complaints resulting from private dealings. OTOH, I think it
is an appropriate place to post good recommendations, and since the
"Austin-Healey Halogen-Bulb-retrofit-industry" is of limited scope, by my
directing potential purchasers to an ethical seller such as Little British
Car Company I am directly working toward driving the unethical competitor out
of that market without having to resort to public name-calling. BTW, the
term is "aforethought" and wipe that foam off your lips.
Michael Oritt
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:08:40 -0400
Subject: Who Has the Best Parts
I'm just starting on the restoration of my BN2, which doesn't have an
excessive amount of rust, but will need the usual replacement sheet metal,
including doglegs for rear fenders, sills, and possibly floors. Are Moss
and Victoria British sheet metal pieces good fits in these areas, or should
I get the pieces from someone else? If so, who would you recommend, either
here in the US, or abroad?
Thanks,
Bob
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:21:40 -0400
Subject: engine question
Thanks for the response. Spoke with previous re-builder of engine and he
stated PO ran engine hard from day he drove off, did not check oil, was back
within weeks with engine knocking. Said owner blew all the oil out? and just
kept adding oil, and the main bearing was burnt up. Rebuilder order spec.
stroker kit (what is that?) and took crank to be repaired. Current owner says
rear main has been leaking severely, thus why he pulled pan and discovered
problems. Current owner is pulling engine, replacing cam, cam followers, rear
main seal and 6 rod bearings. Current owner also states (as you suspected) the
old lifters were used. I will inquire into the suggestions you had for
camshaft journals for runout and play in the pins at rod. I posted previously
for reference check and received no response. I'll post again for check.
Thanks,
Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Joseph Smathers" <healey27 at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 9:31:27 -0400
Subject: Rear Stop/Tail and Flasher Lens - BN1
Looking for an original Lucas red rear stop/tail and flasher lens for my
1955 BN1. The Moss lens is darker and not from Lucas. Any one have a
spare for sale.
Best Regards, Joe
1955 BN1
1960 BT7
--- Joseph Smathers
--- healey27@mindspring.com
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From <caudle1 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:33:15 -0400
Subject: reference check
Does anyone have experience with Bmc Classics, in New Smyrna Beach Fl?
The owner is Harold Brandner, says been rebuilding healeys for 20 years.
You may of seen cars listed by him as dreamsonwheels.com on auto sale sites.
Response would be appreciated
Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From William Craig <William.Craig at PWGSC.GC.CA>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 10:52:37 -0400
Subject: air filters
I would like to get the opinion of the list on changing air filters. I have
a 1959 BN6 and have never liked the idea of the wire mesh ,oil soaked
filters. You cannot get at the mesh to see the dirt buildup nor see how much
oil is present.
Ideally I would like to be able to see the dirt buildup as with paper
filters. I understand that the K & N filters are a little more accessible
for cleaning but still use oil as part of the filter process. Can one get a
paper filter setup for Healeys or is the K& N the best alternative. Also can
someone give me the archive I.D. thx
Bud Craig BN6
Ottawa, Canada
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Martin Johnson <MJohnson at cfworks.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 07:55:58 -0700
Subject: RE: Status report on BN2L231450
-----Original Message-----
From: eugene faust [mailto:ejfaust@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 1:53 PM
To: austin healey
Subject: Status report on BN2L231450
If you want an original style key for your car, Pete Groh probably has the
right one. I'm very pleased with the service and quality I experienced
dealing with him. petegroh@yahoo.com Price was not bad either. He has an
inventory of key codes, so if you have your Heritage Cert, he can try to get
you the same key number your car came with, if your present one is
different. If I remember correctly, you are the guy doing a factory M,
right? Might be worthwhile...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From MBran89793 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 11:02:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear Stop/Tail and Flasher Lens - BN1
Hi-
You may want to check with Dennis Day owner of Classic Auto British Car Parts
at 727/669-5943. He did have one NOS Lucas lens in stock after I purchased 2.
(No financial interest involved.)
Marion S. Brantley, Jr.
Tampa Bay Austin-Healey Club, Membership Chm.
Concours Committee Chm. Judges & Judging
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Brian Mix <brianmix at home.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:01:17 -0700
Subject: Re: reference check
I did not buy a car from him but I did buy a transmission and carbs for my
LeMans
100. The tranny arrived damaged (FL to CA it happens) but He was very good about
working with the
shipper and getting me replacement parts quickly. I'd say his business practices
are good. The car I looked at in his shop was NOT restored and really rusty. If
you are getting a unrestored car from him I'd look really hard at the east coast
rust problems. The restored cars he had looked perfect. He does ask top dollar
for his good cars however.
caudle1@home.com wrote:
> Does anyone have experience with Bmc Classics, in New Smyrna Beach Fl?
> The owner is Harold Brandner, says been rebuilding healeys for 20 years.
> You may of seen cars listed by him as dreamsonwheels.com on auto sale sites.
> Response would be appreciated
> Dave
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Louis Galper <lgalper1 at home.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:12:43 -0700
Subject: BN1 heater hose
I'm interested in what hose is being used for the L-shaped hose coming
off the heater.
I have a Carquest 28460 L-shaped 1/2" hose that can be trimmed to fit.
Any other suggestions?
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:50:41 +0100
Subject: Value of tri carb manifold
I have an original tri carb manifold and heat shield, used, maybe some
cables. Thinking about selling it and wondering what is fair market
value.
Thanks in advance.
Rich Locasso
Huntington Beach, CA
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Raymond Feehan" <feehanr at home.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 10:43:55 -0600
Subject: Re: parts supplier recommendation
Absolutely right. You're saving others from going through the same
frustation you had. RayfixitanddriveitFeehan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Dickstein" <bugide@solve.net>
To: <Awgertoo@aol.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: parts supplier recommendation
>
> Awgertoo@aol.com wrote:
>
> > I had this happen to me a few months ago when
> > I ordered some halogen bulbs for my PL700 tribars from someone (no name
> > mentioned online) who claimed to have the right product. The ones I
received
> > were way wrong and the seller then suggested that I try to sell them to
> > someone else! I returned the bulbs and have yet to receive a
refund....
>
> I'd be curious about the first vendor! There are more of those out there
than we
> need. I think the facts are not slanderous--you sent the money and he/she
sent
> the wrong stuff and wouldn't make it right.
>
>
>
> --
> Larry Dickstein
> Lone Jack, MO
>
> Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Editorgary at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 13:14:24 EDT
Subject: Re: buyer beware
In a message dated 8/30/01 5:23:16 PM, duntov1@home.com writes:
<< Oddly enough, the Mk1 had a hotter camshaft than the MK2's. That could be a
fun engine (with a lightened flywheel)!
Richard Wright
31 years of Healeying >>
Not odd at all -- they figured the triple carb set-up would provide enough
extra power that they should dial back on the cam. Best set-up on any of the
six-cylindersis to use the cam specs from the BJ8 phase 2. Works a treat (as
they say) on the "Mark I" BN/BT7 from personal experience.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Michael Salter <magicare at home.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 14:31:40 -0400
Subject: Re: SV: vent wing caps
Yes, but be careful. BJ7's up to 20109 used a different 1/4 lite window frame
and tip. (BJ8 style won't fit these cars)
Mike Salter
http://www.precisionsportscar.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Magnus Karlsson wrote:
> On top of the vent window frame there should be a rubber piece. The rear
>corner, it also in a way acts as a stop for the side window.
>
>
--
Regards,
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 14:48:56 -0700
Subject: Haynes Manual Wiring Diagram
The positive and negative terminals are indicated to be SW and CB. Maybe I
knew at one time which or those terms meant what, but not now. Can someone
tell me, is SW positive or negative. Tried the archive... its down.
TIA,
Bob Johnson
BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Robert Johnson" <bandrj at earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 14:57:00 -0700
Subject: Fw: Haynes Manual Wiring Diagram
I guess I could say that I'm talking about the coil markings.
Bob J
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Johnson" <bandrj@earthlink.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 2:48 PM
Subject: Haynes Manual Wiring Diagram
>
> The positive and negative terminals are indicated to be SW and CB. Maybe I
> knew at one time which or those terms meant what, but not now. Can someone
> tell me, is SW positive or negative. Tried the archive... its down.
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob Johnson
> BJ8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Bob Bridger" <RBridger01 at mediaone.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 15:02:52 -0400
Subject: Vent wing Caps
Tom,
The BJ 7s & 8s have black rubber corner that slides down into the top of the
back side of the vent frame assembly to keep you from being impaled. Moss
item # 681-008 appears to be what you are looking for.
Bob
BJ 7&BJ 8
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From DMMax at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 15:31:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Moss or Heritage Tonneau
Good Day...
My Moss Tonneau is quit exceptable, EXCEPT the flap that fits around the
cross bar doesn't (fit). My original 'support rods' are too long for it.
Something will be adjusted, but I'm not totally happy.
Mrs. Peel must feel like her brazier strap is binding.
David Maxwell and the redoubtable Mrs. Peel (BT7)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 15:39:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual Wiring Diagram
CB = Contact breakers (points)
SW = Switch (ignition switch)
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 15:41:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Haynes Manual Wiring Diagram
CB = Contact breakers (points)
SW = Switch (ignition switch)
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at : Healey International Open Roads 2002
June 23-28 2002
Horizon Hotel Casino/ Lake Tahoe
<A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Open Roads 2002 Main Page
</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 20:52:37 +0100
Subject: Re: Hood Louvers
Ken,
The reason is that these are Big they are about the width of a standard louvre
but start about 6-8 inches forward of the rear edge of the bonnet and are more
like a door-wedge in shape (ie long and rising), rising to about an inch high. I
have never seem them on any other rally cars, nor on any of the replicas.
The hot air exited towards the windscreen. As for the earlier comment on air
coming over the top and into the cockpit, these all ran with hard tops. I don't
know about the relative efficiencies, but I do have a photo of PMO 203 running
with both XK-styke louvre and bonnet louvre as described in the Alpine.
Peter
"Freese, Ken" wrote:
> Peter,
> Ok, I stand corrected. I wonder why they only did one pair though. M's and
> S's had quite a few.
> Ken
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Dzwig [mailto:pdzwig@summaventures.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 12:59 PM
> To: Freese, Ken
> Cc: 'Brashear, Jack, N'; 'Healey List'
> Subject: Re: Hood Louvers
>
> Ken,
>
> not so Healey Rally cars did use them. 100/6s used a pair of rearward facing
> louvres, one on each side of the bonnet. They also used slats cut in the
> side a
> la XK at times. The triangular airvents only came later.
>
> Peter Dzwig
>
> "Freese, Ken" wrote:
>
> > I think the only function of hood louvers is to help heat escape when the
> > car is stationary. Do a yarn tape test and see which way the air flows in
> > those areas at speed. Healey rally cars never had them.
> > It certainly makes washing the car more difficult. You have to cover the
> > engine with a towel before starting the process or you will have water
> spots
> > on the engine.
> > Ken Freese
> > 65 BJ8
> > ex 100S with louvers
> > 74 Jensen Interceptor with louvers
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 16:19:25 EDT
Subject: Tri Carbs
Actually they went to the triple carb version for homoligation reasons so
they could use triple Webers...the rules did not specify the type of carb,
only the number...changing to the BJ8 Phase 2 cam and carbs was the hot setup
30 years ago so it should still work today...
Dave
'59 BT7
Responding to:
In a message dated 8/30/01 5:23:16 PM, duntov1@home.com writes:
<< Oddly enough, the Mk1 had a hotter camshaft than the MK2's. That could be
a
fun engine (with a lightened flywheel)!
Richard Wright
31 years of Healeying >>
Not odd at all -- they figured the triple carb set-up would provide enough
extra power that they should dial back on the cam. Best set-up on any of the
six-cylindersis to use the cam specs from the BJ8 phase 2. Works a treat (as
they say) on the "Mark I" BN/BT7 from personal experience.
Cheers
Gary
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Matt Wilson" <mwilson7 at san.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 14:03:09 -0700
Subject: 1961 3000 BT7 Trunk Restoration - Long Message
Dear Club Members-
I am looking for a little advice here. I just removed a custom aluminum gas
tank from my trunk that was leaking profusely at the sending unit due to
warping of the aluminum. Long story short... it was installed in the early
80's by my very budget minded father who then owned the car. The trunk is
not original and my desire is to return the trunk to it original
configuration. Additionally the floor of the trunk was removed at the same
time as the tank was installed due to significant rust problems. It was
removed all the way from the back wall of the trunk to the rear of the car
where it would meet with the body. In it's place is a piece of shabby sheet
metal that has crudely been welded into place. It is disgusting and I am
sick to my stomach relaying this information. Regardless this ultimately
needs to be removed and it won't be difficult to do so. Anyway Randy Z.
from Heritage Motor Sports and I looked at it good and long today and we
don't see a body piece offered from say Moss that fits this area.
Furthermore we aren't exactly sure what needs to be purchased and installed
because we don't have another '61 BT7 to compare notes with. Picture in
your mind looking into your trunk and seeing only the two frame members
running through it. Essentially that is what I have. (Obviously minus the
sheet metal that needs to be removed) Randy Z. is ordering a new steel tank
and the hardware to hold it into the trunk but the missing body pieces are
the problem. Can anyone offer any advice on this matter? I will be taking
digital pics of this hopefully today and will be able to send those to you
if you think you can help. Thanks in advance!!
Regards,
Matt-
1961 3000 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RCT2BNC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 17:08:48 EDT
Subject: Re: 1961 3000 BT7 Trunk Restoration - Long Message
Matt,
Call Dave Nock in Stockton. They provided all the sheet metal for the trunk
and floor boards for my BJ8. Great quality, great service. My body shop had
no problem with installation.
Just another satisfied customer..
Ben Cohen
Tucson
BJ8, BN7, AN5, AN5...
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HundredSix at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 17:49:03 EDT
Subject: Re: air filters
Bud,
I have K&N filters on my 1959 BN4 they work great and are of similar
design to paper filters, you can easily tell when they are dirty. They are
the pancake type 1.75" tall. I can email a picture if you like.
Peter Samaroo
Charlotte NC
In a message dated 8/31/01 10:56:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
William.Craig@PWGSC.GC.CA writes:
> I have
> a 1959 BN6 and have never liked the idea of the wire mesh ,oil soaked
> filters. You cannot get at the mesh to see the dirt buildup nor see how much
> oil is present.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 17:50:03 EDT
Subject: Trunk Floor
Matt,
Kilmartin Sheet Metal in Australia lists the part for you trunk floor, along
with all the other pieces you might need...price for the floor through
British Car Specialists is only about $125, which does not sound bad all
things considered...
Dave D.
'59 BT7
In response to:
Dear Club Members-
I am looking for a little advice here. I just removed a custom aluminum gas
tank from my trunk that was leaking profusely at the sending unit due to
warping of the aluminum. Long story short... it was installed in the early
80's by my very budget minded father who then owned the car. The trunk is
not original and my desire is to return the trunk to it original
configuration. Additionally the floor of the trunk was removed at the same
time as the tank was installed due to significant rust problems. It was
removed all the way from the back wall of the trunk to the rear of the car
where it would meet with the body. In it's place is a piece of shabby sheet
metal that has crudely been welded into place. It is disgusting and I am
sick to my stomach relaying this information. Regardless this ultimately
needs to be removed and it won't be difficult to do so. Anyway Randy Z.
from Heritage Motor Sports and I looked at it good and long today and we
don't see a body piece offered from say Moss that fits this area.
Furthermore we aren't exactly sure what needs to be purchased and installed
because we don't have another '61 BT7 to compare notes with. Picture in
your mind looking into your trunk and seeing only the two frame members
running through it. Essentially that is what I have. (Obviously minus the
sheet metal that needs to be removed) Randy Z. is ordering a new steel tank
and the hardware to hold it into the trunk but the missing body pieces are
the problem. Can anyone offer any advice on this matter? I will be taking
digital pics of this hopefully today and will be able to send those to you
if you think you can help. Thanks in advance!!
Regards,
Matt-
1961 3000 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RCT2BNC at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 18:26:09 EDT
Subject: a very expensive Bugeye??
<A
HREF="http://cgi.liveauctions.ebay.com/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=594665846&r=0&t=0";>eBay
Live Auctions item 594665846 (Ends ) - 1960 AUSTIN HEALEY SPRITE
ROADSTER</A>
The above link is to the Auburn Auction for Sept. 1 - specifically a 1960
Bugeye Sprite. Opening bid is > US$ 15,000, with a range for sale of US$
29,000 - US$ 43,000. Anyone know anything THAT special about this car?
Ben Cohen
Tucson
BJ8, BN7, AN5, AN5
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 18:54:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Kilmartin's Sheet Metal Re: truck floor
Matt,
Kilmartin has a web sight and so does British Car Specialists and they are in
Stockton, CA. I stopped by there on my way home a couple weeks ago and
talked to Dave Nock the owner (his Dad started the business about 40 years
ago) and he was VERY helpful and answered several questions I had in a very
knowledgeable manner. There were also about 12 Big Healeys in various stages
of repair/restoration and their worked appeared first cabin. They specialize
in Big Healeys (it was Healey Nirvana) and they can probably help you. The
part number in British Car Specialists is AH231 and it appears to go all the
way back to the back of the trunk. BCS is at
www.BritishCar Specialists.com
and Kilmartin is at
http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/kilmartin.html
it looks like Kilmartin may be cheaper, but you have 12,000 miles distance,
exchange rates and shipping, and etc. it might be better to deal with a US
company. Anybody have ant experience with either of the companies? I know
Ben Cohen responded and said he had great service from Dave Nock At BCS...in
case you didn't see his post,
"Matt,
Call Dave Nock in Stockton. They provided all the sheet metal for the trunk
and floor boards for my BJ8. Great quality, great service. My body shop had
no problem with installation.
Just another satisfied customer..
Ben Cohen
Tucson
BJ8, BN7, AN5, AN5..."
Good luck with your repair, Matt.
Dave D.
'59 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From JSoderling at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 19:00:21 EDT
Subject: Re: air filters
Bud,
I went with the LONGFLO Air Cleaner sold by Victoria British
(victoriabritish.com). They look good and have a washable foam filter
material which looks like it does a good job, much better that the origianls.
The round ones fit Healeys.
John
100-Six Erika the Red
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 19:00:54 EDT
Subject: Re: a very expensive Bugeye??
In a message dated 08/31/2001 3:28:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
RCT2BNC@aol.com writes:
> healeys@autox.team.net
Ben,
Unless the guy thinks because it is on e-bay he will find a sucker...the car
is not stock, Sprites did not come with wire wheels, what else is not
concours which is the only way a Sprite would bring big money...it also looks
like it does not sit right on the rear suspension but it has been a while
since I saw a Frogeye up close and could make the distinction...
Dave D.
'59 BT7
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "simon.lachlan" <simon.lachlan at virgin.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 23:59:49 +0100
Subject: Brake caliper dripping fluid.
My front left Girling 14 seems to have given up the ghost. I
noticed that it was dripping fluid, so I replaced the seals.
The piston is stainless and in good shape. The bore looks fine
too.
When I put the cleaned and rerubbered item back on, it started to
drip again. Not coming from the pipe or bleed nipple, definitely
from inside the calliper.
Is there any solution? Nothing springs to mind, beyond what I
have done. (Which I have done correctly!) Is there anything I may
have missed??
Thanks,
Simon.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "George Castleberry" <leavcast at infomagic.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 16:17:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Kilmartin's Sheet Metal Re: truck floor
I get most of my parts from British Car Specialists and have not had a
problem.
George Castleberry
1954 BN1-L/157155
AHCUSA
----- Original Message -----
From: <N5572B@aol.com>
To: <mwilson7@san.rr.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: Kilmartin's Sheet Metal Re: truck floor
>
> Matt,
> Kilmartin has a web sight and so does British Car Specialists and they are
in
> Stockton, CA. I stopped by there on my way home a couple weeks ago and
> talked to Dave Nock the owner (his Dad started the business about 40 years
> ago) and he was VERY helpful and answered several questions I had in a
very
> knowledgeable manner. There were also about 12 Big Healeys in various
stages
> of repair/restoration and their worked appeared first cabin. They
specialize
> in Big Healeys (it was Healey Nirvana) and they can probably help you.
The
> part number in British Car Specialists is AH231 and it appears to go all
the
> way back to the back of the trunk. BCS is at
>
> www.BritishCar Specialists.com
>
> and Kilmartin is at
>
> http://www.users.bigpond.com/acmefluid/kilmartin.html
>
> it looks like Kilmartin may be cheaper, but you have 12,000 miles
distance,
> exchange rates and shipping, and etc. it might be better to deal with a US
> company. Anybody have ant experience with either of the companies? I
know
> Ben Cohen responded and said he had great service from Dave Nock At
BCS...in
> case you didn't see his post,
>
> "Matt,
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "William H. Woodruff" <bill at whwoodruff.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 16:13:05 -0700
Subject: RE: Kilmartin's Sheet Metal Re: truck floor
> company. Anybody have ant experience with either of the
> companies? I know
> Ben Cohen responded and said he had great service from Dave
>
I have had good service from British Car Specialists too. I think they
are an excellent resource.
Bill W.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HealeyRic2 at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 19:37:12 EDT
Subject: Rare Healey Brings Big Bucks at Auction
Listers,
Are they crazy or what? Buy it now for $500?
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1632065407
Rick
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Rich Locasso <LifeisRich at MacConnect.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 16:59:16 +0100
Subject: Re: Value of tri carb manifold
Robert Wiley wrote:
>
> Is it early or late model on the intake? The early was a smaller balance
> tube.
>
> Bob
>
> >
> > I have an original tri carb manifold and heat shield, used, maybe some
> > cables. Thinking about selling it and wondering what is fair market
> > value.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Rich Locasso
> > Huntington Beach, CA
> >
Bob-
The balance pipe is about an inch in inside diameter. I also found all
the throttle linkage pieces, the choking mechanism with three cables
going to the carbs, and two air cleaners.
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 18:54:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Rare Healey Brings Big Bucks at Auction
<<
Are they crazy or what? Buy it now for $500?
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1632065407
>>
Unfortunately, Rick, prob'ly not. With as much WRONG
with not only "model" items, A-H errors will prob'ly make it go nuts<F>.
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Bob Rich <jearich at mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 18:19:06 -0600
Subject: Re: 1961 3000 BT7 Trunk Restoration
Matt,
I have a 1961 BT7 3000. I'll be happy to look at your pictures and then send
you some of my boot so that you can compare.
Cheers, "Bob".
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "JustBrits" <justbrits at home.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 19:34:37 -0500
Subject: Re: a very expensive Bugeye??
Dave (& Ben):
IMHO, Dave you are WAY off base!! (mostly<G>)
<<Unless the guy thinks because it is on e-bay he will find a sucker...>>
er, Kruse International is "generally" NOT is the business of finding "
"suckers" (which is why, one would suspect auction is "closed"??).
<<the car is not stock, Sprites did not come with wire wheels, >>
Huh?? Better check a book or two. Besides, Dealers did the
"conversion" all the time.
<<what else is not
concours which is the only way a Sprite would bring big money...>>
WHAT does that sentence "say" and/or "mean"???
<<it also looks
like it does not sit right on the rear suspension... >>
Sorta agree. BUT where it is parked makes it look like the left
rear wheel/tyre is in gutter.
<<..but it has been a while
since I saw a Frogeye up close and could make the distinction...>>
Better go find one<G> (buy one??).
Paint colour is wrong, hood is wrong, front face bar with overriders
is right, radio antennea is wrong, and FOR SURE AM/FM Cassette
radio is wrong, "tan" interior" is wrong. Other than thos reason, car
presents itself well - with the exception that 4 out of five thumbnails
are missing so I could not see anything else "wrong"<G>!!
Regards............
Ed
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 21:22:10 EDT
Subject: Re: a very expensive Bugeye??
OK, OK...I can be off...been out of the game for a while...did see a Frogeye
in June but was not paying close attention...looking at the Big Healeys for
ideas and things NOT to do...anyway, a $15k plus starting bid does seem high,
even for a complete resto Sprite...Sprites did get Wire conversions AFTER the
intro of the Midget...that was one of the main differences in the two cars,
along with a chrome stripe on the Midget similar to the B...anyway, I don't
mean any insults and if I show my ignorance of knowledge learned 30 some odd
years ago with a 20 year hiatus, please excuse me and keep setting me
straight. That is one reason I have joined this groups and so far it has
been an educational experience and is shaking cobwebs loose.
I did see a Frogeye for sale a while back for under $1000 (American) and
should have looked at it but my wife was mad at me at the time and was in her
"NO MORE CARS" mode which comes and goes...timing is oh so critical.
Dave Duffey
'59 BT7 (yes, it is a '59...April build date...)
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From WilKo at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 21:28:41 EDT
Subject: Mine stopped quiting
Thanks to all who were helpful about the battery switch wire and stuff like
that.
It turned out that my spare Condenser was bad.
I had already bought a new coil.
It's running now, as new.
Rick
San Diego
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Dickstein <bugide at solve.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 20:47:05 -0500
Subject: Re: a very expensive Bugeye??
RCT2BNC@aol.com wrote:
> <A
>HREF="http://cgi.liveauctions.ebay.com/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=594665846&r=0&t=0";>eBay
> Live Auctions item 594665846 (Ends ) - 1960 AUSTIN HEALEY SPRITE
> ROADSTER</A>
>
> The above link is to the Auburn Auction for Sept. 1 - specifically a 1960
> Bugeye Sprite. Opening bid is > US$ 15,000, with a range for sale of US$
> 29,000 - US$ 43,000. Anyone know anything THAT special about this car?
>
My guess is that the owner will have it awhile longer!
--
Larry Dickstein
Lone Jack, MO
Pop. 420
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Win Graham <win at gmi.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 21:43:15 -0500
Subject: bj7/bj8 differences
I have a two part question. What year did the BJ8 come out? I have
heard that some '63's are bj8's but I have also heard that they didn't
come out until '64. Also, how can you tell the difference between the
two different models of that year (whatever it may be?). Thanks for the
help.
Win Graham
--
A film is never really good unless the camera
is an eye in the head of a poet.
--Orson Welles
Artists must be sacrificed to their art.
Like bees, they must put their lives into
the sting they give.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson
______________________________________________________
Homepage: http://www.wingraham.com
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Greg Bankin" <gregbankin at primus.com.au>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 13:19:28 +1000
Subject: Re: a very expensive Bugeye??
> should have looked at it but my wife was mad at me at the time and was in
her
> "NO MORE CARS" mode which comes and goes...timing is oh so critical.
>
With my (now ex) wife it NEVER came. What's the trick ?
Greg Bankin
gregbankin@primus.com.au
Sunshine Coast
Queensland
Australia
'58 BN4
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From CEWPlatt at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 23:19:30 EDT
Subject: Re:engine question
<Make sure the engine builder uses plastiguage to check
the
bearing clearances and shims the clearances to factory spec.>
Jim,
If you're referring to the main or rod bearings, you've lost me with the
reference to shims.
Regards,
Clay Platt
1954 100
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Steve Byers" <byers at cconnect.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 23:17:49 -0400
Subject: Re: bj7/bj8 differences
Hi, Win -
The first BJ8s were built in October-November 1963. If you consider that a
car is the "year" in which is was built, then the first two or three hundred
could be considered as '63s. If you consider the "year" as the year the car
was first sold and registered, then they could be either '63s or '64s,
depending.
There is no difference between a BJ8 built in '63 and one built in '64.
Using the "year" to distinguish differences between cars, as we are used to
with American cars, is meaningless. Rather, the main differences between
BJ8s is in those modifications implemented between the Phase 1 cars and the
Phase 2, primarily related to the configuration of the rear suspension.
Most cars registered as '63s are the BJ7 model. The most obvious difference
between the BJ7 and the BJ8 is that the BJ8 has the wood dash.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Win Graham" <win@gmi.net>
To: "Healey Chat Group" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 10:43 PM
Subject: bj7/bj8 differences
>
> I have a two part question. What year did the BJ8 come out? I have
> heard that some '63's are bj8's but I have also heard that they didn't
> come out until '64. Also, how can you tell the difference between the
> two different models of that year (whatever it may be?). Thanks for the
> help.
>
> Win Graham
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From N5572B at aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 23:30:33 EDT
Subject: Re: a very expensive Bugeye??
Greg,
It takes practice...this is number three, that is part of the reason my BT7
has been in storage for twenty years...as I am sure you know, ex-wives are
VERY expensive! With the second one it took 8 years and $10,000 to get
custody of my son...money that could have been spent putting the car back
together...
Dave '59 BT7
California...Northern, currently sunny and HOT!
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed at thebest.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 23:38:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Who Has the Best Parts
Thanks to all for the help! It sounds like the Kilmartin repair pieces are
the ones to get, and British Car Specialists is the place to get them.
Bob
There are several makers of repair panels that are reputed to be good.
The only one I can speak of with any experience is Kilmartin.
Kilmartin is an Australian company and you can order directly if you
want, but the parts are also stocked and sold by British Car
Specialists in Stockton Calif. They have a catalog just of the
Kilmartin parts, as well as a catalog of scarce big Healey parts.
Each catalog costs a couple of dollars. David Nock, co owner of
British Car Specialists will probably reply to you. in case he
doesn't, they have a website and email address that I have copied
below.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A
HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
The panels aren't exactly cheap and if you are ordering dozens of them
it might be worth your while to order direct from Oz. But the panels
are a very small fraction of the cost of rust repairs (unless you are
doing the work yourself).
Have fun.
-Roland
On Fri, 31 Aug 2001 09:08:40 -0400, "Wiedemeyer" <boxweed@thebest.net>
wrote:
:: I'm just starting on the restoration of my BN2, which doesn't have an
:: excessive amount of rust, but will need the usual replacement sheet
metal,
:: including doglegs for rear fenders, sills, and possibly floors. Are Moss
:: and Victoria British sheet metal pieces good fits in these areas, or
should
:: I get the pieces from someone else? If so, who would you recommend,
either
:: here in the US, or abroad?
::
:: Thanks,
:: Bob
::
::
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Roland Wilhelmy <rwil at cts.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 20:55:51 -0700
Subject: Re: shut pillar gusset question - rephrase/retry
Maybe I'll get an answer if I shorten the question:
You know that triangular brace that goes behind the door shut pillar
at the bottom? about 5 inches on a side? two sides have a 1/4" 90
degree folded flange and the other is plain, and there is a hole in it
about 1 1/2" diameter? Can anyone tell me exactly how or where this
fits? Does one edge go diagonally across the back of the shut pillar
from the inner edge of the rocker panel up to the fender sheet metal,
or does it sit parallel to the fender and riding just inboard from the
fender, generally vertically? Is the edge that goes against the shut
pillar the plain one or with a folded flange?
Thanks.
-Roland
BN1
On Thu, 30 Aug 2001 23:03:13 -0700, Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
wrote:
::
:: I am to the point on our BN1 where I need to establish the location of
:: the triangular gusset that braces the bottom of the shut pillar
:: against the sill/rocker.[snip]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From "bronson" <bron at rmci.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 22:34:26 -0600
Subject: Headlamp buckets
In reconditioning my 65 BJ827368 I find than one spring tang in the bucket is
about 1/2" long and keeps the spring under tension and the other buckets tang
is about 1" long and the spring is not under tension. Both are stamped F700
MKX.
What is going on here? PO had some front fender collision repair done. Which
is correct?
Sid
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From RCT2BNC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 01:02:23 EDT
Subject: Re: a very expensive Bugeye??
Larry,
Well said.
Ben
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From HLYDOC at aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 01:19:54 EDT
Subject: Re: Brake caliper dripping fluid.
More than likly when you installed the caliper pistone you pinched the seal
and damaged it. remove the pistons and take a close look at the seals for any
damage.
David Nock
President/Service Manager
British Car Specialists
2060 N Wilson Way
Stockton Calif. 95205
209-948-8767 fax 209-948-1030 email HealeyDoc@aol.com
Visit our new web site at <A HREF="http://britishcarspecialists.com/";>
BritishCarSpecialists.com</A>
========================================
Tech Talk Books available for Austin Healey, MG, and Triumph.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
see you at <A HREF="http://www.healey2002.com/";>Healey International 2002</A>
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
From Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2001 15:30:11 +1000
Subject: Re: shut pillar gusset question - rephrase/retry
Hello Roland
one folded edge sits on the step on the outer top edge of the outer sill and is
welded to it, the unfolded edge tucks in behind the shut pillar outer flange,
also welded to it.
Cheers
Larry Varley
Austin Healey 100 Restoration Site
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/
Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> Maybe I'll get an answer if I shorten the question:
> You know that triangular brace that goes behind the door shut pillar
> at the bottom? about 5 inches on a side? two sides have a 1/4" 90
> degree folded flange and the other is plain, and there is a hole in it
> about 1 1/2" diameter? Can anyone tell me exactly how or where this
> fits? Does one edge go diagonally across the back of the shut pillar
> from the inner edge of the rocker panel up to the fender sheet metal,
> or does it sit parallel to the fender and riding just inboard from the
> fender, generally vertically? Is the edge that goes against the shut
> pillar the plain one or with a folded flange?
>
> Thanks.
>
> -Roland
> BN1
>
> On Thu, 30 Aug 2001 23:03:13 -0700, Roland Wilhelmy <rwil@cts.com>
> wrote:
>
> ::
> :: I am to the point on our BN1 where I need to establish the location of
> :: the triangular gusset that braces the bottom of the shut pillar
> :: against the sill/rocker.[snip]
/// healeys@autox.team.net mailing list
|