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Henry, I know you and I have chatted about this in the past. I get the "it=
's just one more thing to break" philosophy. But IMHO, cracking a cylinder =
head that's run hot with umpteen hours of messaging, not to mention $$$ hea=
ved at it, is not worth saving a few bux$ and labor hours by skipping the r=
ad.
Now, to the core of the issue - pun intended - is that aluminum core of the=
Wizard has better heat transfer (apparently) due to a more efficient matri=
x. I have run a Wizard in the TR6 for something like 15 years. I use an ele=
ctric fan because I seem to wind up spending a lot of time idling in grid. =
Absent silly issues like static timing being way off, which resulted in tem=
p spiking, the only problem I've ever had was a radiator cracking due to st=
resses. Note that pylons in autocross are not kind to aluminum radiators. B=
ut I consider on radiator and one oil cooler cracking after more than 200 a=
utocrosses to be "fairly good reliability".
I run a Wizard TR6 drop-in and a puller electric fan with the thermostatic =
controlled relay setup. Totally worth the money.
Regards,Bob Lang
On Tuesday, March 14, 2023 at 07:30:32 AM EDT, yellow04 via Fot <fot@au=
tox.team.net> wrote: =20
=20
=20
I dropped a Wizard radiator into Old Blue and it solved the cooling issues =
Dentinger experienced for years in the old TR3. Actually, I have Wizard pro=
ducts installed in a couple street cars as well, they work. If they keep a =
Stag cool, they must have figured something out.=C2=A0
One caveat worth mentioning, both Steve's car and mine run the early small =
mouth valance, which does not require much in additional ducting. On the wi=
de mouth=C2=A0cars, a good ducting solution is critical. If I were racing a=
TR3A with that big grill, I would be so tempted to run=C2=A0an oversized r=
adiator and the obligatory thermostat, that has been my solution with the T=
R4 and the TR250. I have seen it done in a TR3, I will admit you need to ge=
t a bit more creative=C2=A0with the limited space available.
I never saw the need for a fan in a race car, if you know when to run the t=
hing, and more importantly when to shut it down, why bother?
Henry=C2=A0
On 2023-03-13 20:00, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote:
I run a wizard radiator in my TR3 in the hot California sun. No problemo
~Steve=C2=A0
On Mar 13, 2023, at 3:26 PM, Bryan Brazelton via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> w=
rote:
Hello Group, I am looking for recommendations=C2=A0on what Aluminum Radiato=
r is the best for competition on the TR3 . I like the ones with fan bracket=
s=C2=A0made onto the body of the radiator like the Wizard Radiator but it i=
s on a 2 row instead of the others that are 3 rows.=C2=A0 Does anyone have =
experience=C2=A0with this?
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
@yahoo.com
=20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydpe73a6538yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;"><div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Henry, I know you and I have=
chatted about this in the past. I get the "it's just one more thing to bre=
ak" philosophy. But IMHO, cracking a cylinder head that's run hot with umpt=
een hours of messaging, not to mention $$$ heaved at it, is not worth savin=
g a few bux$ and labor hours by skipping the rad.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" dat=
a-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Now, to=
the core of the issue - pun intended - is that aluminum core of the Wizard=
has better heat transfer (apparently) due to a more efficient matrix. I ha=
ve run a Wizard in the TR6 for something like 15 years. I use an electric f=
an because I seem to wind up spending a lot of time idling in grid. Absent =
silly issues like static timing being way off, which resulted in temp spiki=
ng, the only problem I've ever had was a radiator cracking due to stresses.=
Note that pylons in autocross are not kind to aluminum radiators. But I co=
nsider on radiator and one oil cooler cracking after more than 200 autocros=
ses to be "fairly good reliability".</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"f=
alse"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I run a Wizard TR6 d=
rop-in and a puller electric fan with the thermostatic controlled relay set=
up. Totally worth the money.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><b=
r></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Regards,</div><div dir=3D"lt=
r" data-setdir=3D"false">Bob Lang<br></div><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydp7824dbf8yahoo_quoted_9127891909" class=3D"ydp78=
24dbf8yahoo_quoted">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div>
On Tuesday, March 14, 2023 at 07:30:32 AM EDT, yellow04=
via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><div id=3D"ydp7824dbf8yiv4624346217"><div>
<p>I dropped a Wizard radiator into Old Blue and it solved the cooling issu=
es Dentinger experienced for years in the old TR3. Actually, I have Wizard =
products installed in a couple street cars as well, they work. If they keep=
a Stag cool, they must have figured something out. </p>
<p>One caveat worth mentioning, both Steve's car and mine run the early sma=
ll mouth valance, which does not require much in additional ducting. On the=
wide mouth cars, a good ducting solution is critical. If I were racin=
g a TR3A with that big grill, I would be so tempted to run an oversize=
d radiator and the obligatory thermostat, that has been my solution with th=
e TR4 and the TR250. I have seen it done in a TR3, I will admit you need to=
get a bit more creative with the limited space available.</p>
<p>I never saw the need for a fan in a race car, if you know when to run th=
e thing, and more importantly when to shut it down, why bother?</p>
<p>Henry </p>
<div id=3D"ydp7824dbf8yiv4624346217yqtfd04132" class=3D"ydp7824dbf8yiv46243=
46217yqt7680788791"><p id=3D"ydp7824dbf8yiv4624346217reply-intro">On 2023-0=
3-13 20:00, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote:</p>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding:0 0.4em;border-left:#1010ff 2px =
solid;margin:0;">
<div id=3D"ydp7824dbf8yiv4624346217replybody1">
<div>I run a wizard radiator in my TR3 in the hot California sun. No proble=
mo<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">
<div dir=3D"ltr">~Steve
<div> </div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none">
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding:0 0.4em;border-left:#1010ff 2px =
solid;margin:0;">On Mar 13, 2023, at 3:26 PM, Bryan Brazelton via Fot <f=
ot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"></blockqu=
ote>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding:0 0.4em;border-left:#1010ff 2px =
solid;margin:0;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hello Group, I am looking for recommendations on what=
Aluminum Radiator is the best for competition on the TR3 . I like the ones=
with fan brackets made onto the body of the radiator like the Wizard =
Radiator but it is on a 2 row instead of the others that are 3 rows. =
Does anyone have experience with this?</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div></div></div><div class=3D"ydp7824dbf8yqt7680788791" id=3D"ydp7824dbf8=
yqtfd17481">_______________________________________________<br clear=3D"non=
e"><a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"nofollow" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a><br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"=
><a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com"; rel=3D"nofollow" targ=
et=3D"_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"=
none">Donate: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; re=
l=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br cle=
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_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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