AFAIK (which isn't very far), 549-580 is a reproduction of the original
bonded rubber part. Should work fine, on a stock 83mm motor.
I was talking about the improved "fail-safe" design, that I believe Ken
actually had designed and manufactured for BFE to sell. Rather than relying
on a bond between rubber and metal, it had a series of tabs welded inside,
with polyurethane (or similar) cushions between the tabs. Even if the poly
failed, the tabs would hit each other and still allow the engine to be
started.
The engine I was running at the time had 87mm liners, and while the target
CR was 10.5:1, I suspect it came out substantially higher somehow. I
probably made a mistake on my math. Anyway, I couldn't run it on pump gas,
and learned a lot about the effectiveness of various "octane improvers". I
tore up several of those bonded rubber drives, before asking Ken if he knew
a better way. Even tore up one of the fail-safe replacements (which Ken
replaced for free) before finally switching to a gear-drive starter.
-- Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild
> Randall,
> Isn't the part he needs called a 'sleeve assembly' and in the
> Moss catalogue 549-580 at $30? It has been several years
> but I recall buying this when I rebuilt the starter for
> TS30766L. Served me well after that, stock motor rebuild.
> Bill
>
>
>
> Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS
>
> > On Oct 17, 2019, at 7:21 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
> >
>
> ?It has been awhile, but I've had those early starters apart
> many times.
>
> In the attached diagram, you pull away the collar, A, then
> pry the retaining ring B out of it's groove. Then you have
> to work retaining ring C out of the pinion barrel D. With it
> removed, the pinion & barrel should just slide off, exposing
> the Bendix drive inside.
>
> I've not asked recently, but my FLAPS used to be able to send
> those old starters out to be rebuilt. Quoted turnaround was
> 1 week, but I never tried it. Wouldn't let me talk to the
> rebuilder directly, though.
>
> Frankly, I got disgusted and installed a gear-drive starter
> instead. After 10 years of near-daily usage, it did need new
> bearings and the brushes were about half gone, but I still
> think it's better. For one thing, it doesn't have the
> "bonded rubber" drive that seems to fail quite often trying
> to crank a high compression engine.
>
> BFE used to sell a "fail safe" replacement for the rubber
> drive, but I think I got the last one many years ago and Ken
> said he wasn't having any more made. The current proprietor
> of BFE probably doesn't know anything about them.
>
> -- Randall
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jack
> > Wheeler via Fot
> > Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2019 10:29 AM
> > To: FOT List
> > Subject: [Fot] TR-2/3 Starter Question
> >
> > Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding the early
> starters, as
> > used on TR-2's and TR-3's, up to about chassis number 50,000 (the
> > "long" starters)? i took my starter to a local electrical shop a
> > couple of months ago and he is stuck.
> > He can't figure out how to remove the pinion (with gear) from the
> > shaft. Is there a secret to getting the pinion off?
> >
> > Or, does anyone know of any place that rebuilds these early
> starters,
> > who may be able to help me with this question? Or, I could
> send the
> > starter to them.
> >
> >
> > Thanks for any help you can give me.
> >
> > Jack Wheeler
> >
> >
> <M17 Fig 20 starter drive.jpg>
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