I?ve had some training in non-destructive inspection methods while working in
the Naval Nuclear Propulsion Program. As Chuck mentions magnetic particle
methods are preferred when dealing with ferrous materials. Dye Penetrant is
good but unless you know how to use the dye, clean excess dye, and how to apply
the developer white powder you can miss detecting cracks. Too much dye,
excessive cleaning of dye and over application of developer are all ways to
mask cracks. Stick with magnetic particle and you?ll find those cracks. Less
mess too.
JVV
From: DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 8:09 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] FW: Failed Parts Alert
Wow I had always heard just the opposite.
Anyone need a Magnaflux Dye kit??????
Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, Inc.
411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211
www.dieselperformanceparts.com
Phone: 615-834-0066
Fax: 615-834-9923
Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com
From: chasgee22 at gmail.com [mailto:chasgee22 at gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 11:11 PM
To: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: DPPI - Mark Craig <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>; fot at
autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Failed Parts Alert
Mag inspection is always better than penetrant. Penetrant requires the cracks
be open to the surface, mag doesn?t. The only reason to use penetrant over mag
is when the material you are checking is not ferromagnetic.
Chuck
On May 14, 2018, at 5:47 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
Interesting- I?ve had bad luck with the dye Pegasus sells- mangaflux shows
cracks it didn?t.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 14, 2018, at 6:05 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig <info at
dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote:
Great, I got one set of Canley and they rest are stockers and I just bought
a dye penetrant set that allows me to do it at home. I got enough Magnaflux
brand dyes and developers in a kit to last me years at about 100.00 bucks on e
bay. You might want to check it out as it?s more sensitive from what I know as
compared to magnufluxing a part.
<image001.png>
<image002.png>
Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, Inc.
411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211
www.dieselperformanceparts.com
<image003.jpg> <image004.jpg> <image005.jpg> <image006.jpg>
Phone: 615-834-0066
Fax: 615-834-9923
Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com
From: Scott Janzen [mailto:sjanzen at me.com]
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 4:59 PM
To: DPPI - Mark Craig <info at dieselperformanceparts.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Failed Parts Alert
Sure- still have both failed pieces. Fortunately they did not totally fail
in action!
Sent from my iPhone
On May 14, 2018, at 5:56 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig <info at
dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote:
Any chance you?d take some pics of the actual failed part with some dots
or arrows where you are seeing the cracks for us so we know better where to
look for them??
<image001.png>
Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, Inc.
411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211
www.dieselperformanceparts.com
<image002.jpg> <image003.jpg> <image004.jpg> <image005.jpg>
Phone: 615-834-0066
Fax: 615-834-9923
Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott
Janzen via Fot
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 11:18 AM
To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Failed Parts Alert
I?ve been using the trunnionless front suspension vertical link on my GT6
that Canley Classics sells for the past two years. I?ve now had two fail the
annual magnaflux tests. They cracked in different locations, one right at the
machining line for the flat for the stub axle nut, on the back side where the
steering arm passes through, and one on the upright at what appeared to be a
casting mark, near the bump you see in the photo below. Neither crack was
visible to the eye. The upright Canley sells no longer looks exactly like the
photo - it now has a machined area on the back side, away from the wheel, much
like stock ones. Maybe I just had bad luck, but between two cracks and some
binding issues at the ball joint I had to rectify, I would no longer recommend
these.
I started using the Canley units when the stock ones developed cracks in
the traditional place at the top end of the threads where the trunnion is.
I have now installed uprights I got from Jigsaw Racing
https://jigsawracingservices.com - Mark Field, in England. The main difference
from stock is they are not drilled for a grease fitting or grease boring down
into the trunnion, which should make them stronger where the stock ones usually
fail. Mark races Spitfires and GT6s for himself and for customers in vintage
racing and claims he has never had a failure. He further claims that the units
are made in the original forging molds and by the same people that made the
Stanpart units.
Main point is, even though it?s a pain, pull your critical parts off and
get them magnafluxed at least once in a while. I?ve become paranoid and this
is now an annual exercise. The machine shop I go to usually does it for free
while I am watching, probably because I?m usually dropping off engine parts
where the real dollars get spent!
<image006.png>
_______________________________________________
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