The other way to address this at least with Spitfire and GT-6 applications
is to go with larger fasteners and use 8 instead of 4 and a pin. Hardened
flat washers under the heads also is a good idea as is blue lock-tite. I
would figure results would be similar in TR3-6 applications but I have never
tried it. Works very well on 8K rpm Spitfires
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Cronin via
Fot
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2017 8:26 AM
To: Tony Drews
Cc: FOT List Triumph
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Flywheel, Presure Plate and Disk Question
The alloy flywheels can be upgraded by having or installing ARP hardened
steel inserts into the flywheel attaching holes which alieviates the
tendancy for the holes to elongate.
D
On Mar 23, 2017, at 11:49 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
Most folks seem to do a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. Joe had a set of steel
ones similar to what's sold by Cambridge made a while back, weighs the same
and doesn't have the tendency to come loose from the crank like the alloy
ones do. Looks like this but for a TR4:
http://www.cambridgemotorsport.com/partsxx/cm6953
I use a diaphragm pressure plate like you describe with a heavy duty clutch
disk.
The annular hydraulic throwout bearing is cool, but if you have any kind of
failure you have to pull the tranny. For that reason I converted from a
very cool setup like that back to stock - so if the slave cylinder went out
I had half a chance of fixing it at the track.
Regards, Tony Drews
At 02:57 PM 3/23/2017, STEPHEN BOROWSKI via Fot wrote:
Hello All,
What do you recommend for a race flywheel, Pressure Plate and Disk?
My existing is a lightened stock flywheel with a diaphragm type (Porsche)
pressure plate.
Also has anyone used the hydraulic throw out bearing devise? Is it worth it?
Thanks,
Steve
FL TR4 racer
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