My first attempt with the split seal leaked a bit, then Ken Gillanders advised
to use grease, not RTV in the housing groove that the seal rides in. Never had
another issue. Heck, I have even reused the seal over a couple of rebuilds.
I really like Glen's idea of checking for leaks on the bench, I will be doing
that on future TRactor engines I build. Because the puddle of oil under the
engine stand is not big enough now...
Henry
> -----Original Message-----
> ---- fubog1 via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
> > The split seals (series Land Rover) work as intended.
> Problems are usually resultant from any one or combination of poor quality
> seals, machining +/- on the 2-piece housing, and lack of concentricity
> between the housing and housing bore in the block (especially if the block
> has been align-bored).
> The book would say "some degree of fitting may be required". It's a fussy
> operation, it's easy to screw up the installation but they do work.
> Also when I'm done, I fill the cavity behind the rear main with oil, with the
> block inverted, to check for leaks. It's a lot better to find it on the bench
> before it goes in the car
>
> Glen
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