Uncle Jack came to the conclusion that the aftermarket blanks had incorrectly
hobbed gears for the distributor drive. I've stayed with regrounds ever since.
Bob Kramer
Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
-----Original message-----
From: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: 'Friends of Triumph' <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Mar 27, 2011 16:21:38 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Fot] Distributor gear failure
I ment with block face this brass face.
I didn't know that it is buyable bearing.
I never seen any of the with wear.
I never had any trouble with this gear but if failed last year and ruined a
good cam.
Any ideas why this gear do fail from time to time?
My idea was that it only fails on chilled cast cams and not on nitrate
hardened but a friend of mine had one failed that was nitrate hardened.
Could it be something that has to do with harmonic resonances of the cam?
Cheers
Chris
-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von Randall
Gesendet: Sonntag, 27. Mdrz 2011 14:12
An: 'Friends of Triumph'
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Distributor gear failure
> If the distributor gear is running on the block face, is that
> the right position?
The gear shouldn't run on the block face (again assuming we are talking
4-cylinder wet liner), but instead runs on top of a brass bushing (Stanpart
56405) that also carries the drive shaft to the oil pump.
So IMO if you want to move the gear upwards, the first step would be to
replace that bushing with a new one. I believe that should give you the
proper position of the gear relative to the camshaft. But if it needs to
come higher than that, I would suggest fitting shims between the flange of
the bushing and the cylinder block, so the gear continues to ride on the
bushing face.
> If this is uncertain then how to measure the right mesh position?
> Do I have to color the gears to see the contact point like if
> I would adjust the rear axle?
Makes sense to me, but I've never tried it.
Randall
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