Hmmm. Scratch that idea. I just went down and looked at the cheater TR3 that I
based the notion on--that's not how it worked. I welded a plate onto the top
pivot mount--or actually I think Colin Sparkes did. As I recall someone moved
the pivot by making a bracket from a heavy angle iron that moved the pivot in
half an inch. That might be pretty easy to do and would meet your criteria of
being easy to remove without leaving holes.
>
> You can do a couple of very nice things for your handling by moving the
> pivot arm inwards the width of the bolt spacing and drilling just two new
> holes. Unfortunately you then need to lengthen the upper arms about half an
> inch, but you can make them adjustable when you do that. It decreases
camber
> gain and allows you to adjust camber at the same time. It might also
decrease
> bump steer--I suspect it will on TR4s, though I haven't measured it. The
inner
> pivot of the tie rods on TR3s are inside an imaginary line drawn from the
> lower inner suspension pivot and the upper inner suspension pivot. I think
> they are on TR4s too. Moving the upper inner pivot inwards will move the
line
> closer to the tie rod pivot.
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