The Yokohama A048 will be avialable in 205/60-15 at end of year I was told.
The 55 line is stopped and the sizes are changed to 60.
I use the Yokohama A021 at the moment. The tires have done 5 events (= 16 heat
cycle so far) and about 3000mls in everyday traffic.
I use -1,70 camber at ride height which is 2,30 at full bump. I have much toe
in.
The tires can do 2 or 3 events I think before the thread becomes road illegal.
I run 30psi warm pressure at all wheels with a car weight of 2127 pounds
(without driver).
In Germany we run 5 manufacturers:
Yokohama
Dunlop
Kumho
Toyo
Hankook
Hope this helps!
- Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Drews" <tony@tonydrews.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 1:37 AM
Subject: RE: Hoosier tire wear survey
> I'm running about .5 degrees negative in the fronts (to help tire wear,
> thanks for the suggestion Bill!). Rears are zero degrees camber, detroit
> locker diff (basically acts like it's welded in the corner under power as I
> understand it). I got 5 1/2 sessions at Blackhawk then rotated the still
> decent fronts to the pretty beat up rears, and maybe 4 at Grattan before I
> had to start replacing tires because I was worn to the point that at least
> one of the tire grooves were essentially gone. By the end of the weekend
> (6 sessions) I had replaced 3 of the 4 tires with almost worn out but still
> usable tires. Probably would have replaced the 4th but wanted to keep
> Snook going.
>
> I run 26 psi front / 24 psi rear (plain old air). I bumped the rear
> pressure up a psi from 23 to tame some of the oversteer in an attempt to
> get more tire life. Rears wear out the inside edge first. The car has
> some amount of oversteer, but I tried to not hang it out too far. I'm
> giving up on Hoosiers and am going to start trying other
> brands. Unfortunately, nothing is really available in 60 series so I'm
> forced to go to 50 series tires (or Dunlops and add 2 to 4 seconds a lap to
> my times).
>
> While I don't do the math to know what I spend a race, I'm spending over
> $400 in tires alone per race weekend.
>
> Of course, Jack knew all of this, but the rest of you didn't...
>
> - Tony
>
> At 11:27 AM 8/24/2005, Bill Babcock wrote:
> >It would be useful to know the suspension setting for the cars that are
> >gobbling tires. Also, what do you call a "worn out" tire. Is it worn out
> >when you start seeing your lap times come down a bit, or are you driving
> >them to the cords?
> >
> >I see a lot of cars on bias ply tires that are running a degree or more of
> >camber, like it's some kind of rule that camber=good. If you have added
> >camber by shortening the upper arm, then you have a lot of camber gain, so
> >even if you set it at zero degrees, as your suspension compresses you get
> >more.
> >
> >I'm running Peyote with zero to .5 degrees of camber, zero toe, and whatever
> >caster that a TR6 lower trunnion gives (I think it's 3 degrees). I have
> >about 2 degrees of camber gain at full suspension travel (compression). The
> >Ackerman point is about five inches before the rear axle.
> >
> >Using Hoosier vintage TDs 5.50 X 15 front and rear, about 22 pounds in the
> >front, 24 in the rear, nitrogen.
> >
> >My tires give even temps across the face and show no sliding marks--the wear
> >is even across the tire. I gain about 1 second with new tires after one heat
> >cycle, lose that back after ten or so cycles. After ten cycles there is no
> >further degradation of lap times. I run tires to 30 or 40 heat cycles or
> >more. So far this season I've bought one set of Hoosiers to replace the ones
> >I flat spotted when I lost my steering. And I bought one set of Dunlops to
> >run Monterey.
> >
> >I'm going to be trying the DOT Hoosiers at the CRC. I'll let you know what I
> >think of them. They are radials, so I'll need to play with camber.
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