Randall's solution may sort out the fault, however there are a ceratin
number of solenoids that simply don't work when hot, despite everything done
to them. Been there, done that - ended up with a boxful of crap.
John Kipping
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 1:39 PM
Subject: RE: J-type overdrive
> > Are you referring to the O-ring ON the J-type solenoid (Moss 520-330) or
> > O-rings that are INSIDE the solenoid (not listed in Moss catalog)?
>
> I did both ... most likely it was the ones inside that made the
difference.
>
> > If you
> > are referring tom O-rings inside the solenoid, do you know the
> > size/material
> > and a source for them?
>
> Buna-N (nitrile) is the right material ... I got all mine from an O-ring
kit
> bought many years ago at Horrible Freight for about $3.50 (on sale).
> According to the ISOA article at
> http://www.snic-braaapp.org/itech01.htm#JType1
> it takes :
> (2) -007
> (1) -010
> (2) -013
> although I can't swear those are the sizes I used. As it happens, the
coil
> was also coming loose on mine, so I drilled out the pins that hold the
coil
> to the valve, replaced the O-ring inside there, and drilled and tapped 4
new
> holes 4-40 in the valve to hold the coil.
>
> > How do you get the solenoid apart to replace them?
>
> There is a small, internal snap-ring in the end. I removed it and the
brass
> plug and spring that popped up when I did. Then I rapped the end of
> solenoid on my (wood) workbench to encourage the internal plunger to move
> out, and pried it the rest of the way through the holes on the side.
>
> Oops, gotta run. Let me know if I've not been clear.
> Randall
>
>
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