They can be great if you install and break them in correctly. This is all
bike experience, but it should be proper for wet sleeve engines. You need a
really good hone job with the cylinder under normal clamping pressure. This
means an adapter top and bottom to distort the cylinder as it will be under
torque. You might get away without this since the beam strength of a triumph
head and the block might be high enough for the four bolt clamping zones to
not distort the cylinder, but I doubt it.
Once it's honed, while it's still clamped at torque, you use a dummy piston
and rouge to lap the rings in. Takes about ten minutes of lapping per
cylinder. You're looking for a continuous dull line with no bright gaps.
Once they are lapped you absolutely don't want to confuse either the
cylinder you lapped them in to or their order on the piston.
Then break them in by slamming them against the cylinder. You do this in a
relatively low gear so you're not bogging the engine, quickly accelerate to
near redline and abruptly shut the throttle, coast to about 2-3000 RPM. Do
that a couple of times and Bob's your uncle.
Works perfectly on a bike engine. In fact it's the only way to build a
racing engine for a motorcycle since it's going to live at redline for it's
entire life brief life. I can't think of a bike engine that doesn't use
chrome rings.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of N197TR4@cs.com
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2004 2:49 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: 86 MM Chromium Rings-Help
FoT,
What is your input on Chrome Piston Rings?
Application: Street Use Only.
I have a set of 86MM Liners and AE chromium rings.
What is your feedback on Chromium vs. Cast Iron.
What is the best break in procedure?
TIA
Joe (A)
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