I guess we'll go over this again for the tenth time. The problem is that the
harmonic of the TR-6 engine causes the flywheel to move back and forth
(wobble) and this prys the bolts out of the crank or STRETCHES the bolts.
When this happens the bolts are found bent over or loose or even out of the
threaded crank. Larger bolts, yes, but the main thing is that the bolts
must be of a type that do not STRETCH. The only way to solve this on an
immediate basis is to lower the revs below 6000 as the secondary vibration
occurs at 5800 and is so strong it moves the flywheel edge back and forth
over a 1/2". Lots of hardware companies sell the type bolt you need for this
crank. Buy the best you can find. REMEMBER hard no stretching bolts. NOT
strong, but hard. Grade eight is not near good enough for the TR-6.
The GT-6 is a totally different crankshaft and does not have anywhere near
the problem. What fixes the GT-6 will no doubt FAIL with the TR-6. The only
similarity of the engines in this department is that they are both have 6
cylinders.
In the end you want the lightest flywheel and the lightest clutch you can
come onto. My TR-6 had a total weight of BOTH these components of 13
pounds. I also had six bolts in the end of the crank and of an improved
diameter and quality. You can fix it, but is takes some little doing.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fubog1@aol.com>
To: <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>; <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2003 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: Flywheel woes
> To add to the good advice by Russ. ideally you want a bolt with a large
> underhead bearing area & correct grip length. Also make sure that the
register in
> back of wheel & rear of crank is pefectly clean & flat, & make sure there
are
> no raised spots around bolt hole chamfer. Also make sure that the locating
> dowel is a tight fit in the wheel, the fasteners clamp the wheel, the
dowel takes
> the shear load. If the wheel is loose on the dowel the bolts will be
subject
> to shear load & they WILL fail!
> Good luck!
> Glen
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