I'm going gently nuts here. I replumbed my accusump after ripping it out
at the Monterey Historics when my oil lines went bad. I got a much nicer
oil cooler adapter plate from Gregg Solow and an oil cooler with AN
fittings and a bunch of hose and fittings and did a nice clean refit in
the pits (if I do say so myself) but the accusump was set aside for later.
So this week after deciding that I didn't have any oil gallery plugs or
other alternatives that were suitable for direct connection, I replumbed
the accusump into the oil cooler line. I included the check valve as
usual.
I can charge the accusump when I open the valve, the gauge rises to about
50#, but when I shut off the engine and open the accusump valve I don't
get any pressure on the car's oil pressure gauge and my oil light doesn't
go out. The accusump slowly (very slowly) drains down to 20#.
As far as I can see this is fairly hard to screw up. I've got flow through
the oil cooler and back to the adapter plate, so I don't have the check
valve in wrong. I get oil to the accusump. I've plumbed the accusump on
the return line from the cooler, but I don't see how this could matter.
The accusump is on the return side of the check valve (after the cooler),
as it was before.
The only thing I can think of is moving the accusump to the other side of
the check valve, but that would let it drain back through the oil pump and
the check valve wouldn't do anything--the accusump pressure would open it.
I'm flummoxed. Greg, is there something different about that adapter
plate?
I'm still using the stock banjo connector for the oil pressure. I should
probably connect it directly to the oil gallery instead, but until I'm
sure that my plumbing is O.K. that would make me nervous--changing too
many things at once.
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