I don't know about the sealant. Remember that the liners are wet sleeves.
They get a coating of oxide on them no matter what, but you don't want
anything smeared on them interfering with the coolant getting to the
metal. I've never had a problem with the figure eight rings as long as
everything is scrupulously clean. A note on cleaning--you can
plastic-blast the liners as long as you clean them carefully and
repeatedly afterwards but don't sand blast anything going into an engine,
and don't blast anything that has crevices that the media can be trapped
in.
If you are going to apply sealant to the figure eight gaskets, use
something very thin, like Yamabond #5, and apply it sparingly. Make sure
the figure eight gaskets are the same thickness--I've found variations in
my collection) and check that the liners stand proud a bit from the block.
Since I use steel shim gaskets with copper wire o rings I don't worry too
much about how proud they are, but I want them even. I use a depth gauge
to check that.
There is no reason I can think of to seal the liner where it presses into
the block, and a lot of reasons not to. Water flows down along the sleeve.
It's hottest part of the liner. If you paint the top of the sleeve with
sealant you'll insulate it from the metal and water that cools it.
I never pre-assemble the pistons to the liners--I put them in from above
with a ring compressor and a bit of masking tape across the rod ends to
protect the crank. You just fish out the masking tape just before you mate
the big end bearing to the crank. The big challenge is keeping the liners
from moving once you've mated them to the figure eight gaskets. Not hard,
just a washer and a bit of pipe as mentioned below.
There are three things that I think screw up engines more than any other
home mechanic goof up. Failing to mark or note the alignment of parts
before disassembly, using too much sealant (use half of what you think you
should and that's still too much, and don't use it on places that don't
need it. I've seen seals with blobs of silicone "sealing" them in place).
And finally, not being clean enough. There's no such thing as a part
that's "clean enough".
-----Original Message-----
From: WEmery7451@aol.com [mailto:WEmery7451@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2003 6:37 AM
To: vucinic@b140.aone.net.au
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR4 Piston Liner Installation
In a message dated 2/10/03 3:14:16 AM Pacific Standard Time,
vucinic@b140.aone.net.au writes:
<< I will be using a sealant on the cylinder liner, both where it presses
into the block and where the figure 8 gasket seats. I am assuming that
once the liners are fitted into position, the best method of seating the
liner would
be
to fit the cylinder head and torque down. This of course will allow the
sealant to set, with the liners compressed in the correct position.
>>
I have never had any trouble by installing the liners and clamping them
down
in the block. You can do this using sockets over the head bolts and the
1/2"
washers and head bolts. I made a couple sets of hold downs by cutting
short
lengths of pipe and welding washers onto the ends.
Then gently tap in the pistons and rods using a ring compressor and hammer
handle. Sometimes the rings will pop out from under the compressor, and
you
have to reset everything. Rotate the engine in the stand, connect the rod
to
the crank, and go on to the next piston.
I am not saying that this is the best procedure.
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