Until the top of the shock bottoms out on your mount...Or preferably the
bump stops.
When you do such a thing, you are cutting down on the limits of travel.
Bit a big deal on the race track, but it can be an issue
later/elsewhere.
Also keep in mind the thing that keeps the top of the shock located is
the rubber that is trapped between two washers on the top of the shock.
You'd need to make your mount with that in account.
Basically, it looks like:
___
| |
__| |__
| | | | Nut
------------------ Top washer
|XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX|
|XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| Top rubber
--------| |---------- Mount plate
|XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX|
|XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| Bottom Rubber
------------------ Bottom washer
| |
I don't think this would be as easy as you think to move.
Bob
Joe Curry wrote:
>
> Bob,
> I had envisioned the top mount being a small hole the size of the top
>mounting rod of the shock. The stock bushings would then be used to secure it.
> Using the same springs as before, this relocation would compress the springs
>more and therefore (at least I think) shouldn't allow the shock to bottom
> out because the spring would offer the same resistance to bottoming as before.
>
> Can you find any fault with this logic before I do any further (dangerous)
>thinking, or worse, act on my thoughts!!
>
> Joe
>
> Bob Bownes wrote:
> >
> > The limiting factor here is the the bump stops or, at worst, the
> > compressed springs, not the shock. If you bottom out the shock before
> > anything else you will damage it. Also keep in mind that the top of the
> > shock needs to be located in a rubber or spherical busing as it pivots
> > as it travels. A race car will have the top of the shock in a steel
> > spherical bushing, street car in a rubber one.
> >
> > The best way to do what you want is a shorter spring. A Real One, not a
> > cut down one.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > Joe Curry wrote:
> > >
> > > After further study of the shock location, I have another proposal for
>consideration.
> > >
> > > How about leaving the top spring perch where it is and drilling out the
>center so that the attaching point is no longer in the center of the perch.
> > > Then you can weld an extension to the top of the shock tower to mount the
>top of the shock.
> > >
> > > Of course, when you attach that extension, you won't be able to easily
>remove the spring perch but that shouldn't be a problem because it should never
> > > need to be removed. In fact, it's probably not a bad idea to tack weld
>it in place rather than using the attached studs that secure it to the tower.
> > >
> > > OK, I'm ready for the feedback!!!
> > >
> > > Joe (C)
|