Most shops don't even recommend replacing the guides anymore and use sleeves
which are supposed to hold oil better and offer the same usable life.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cawrse" <nqrithjim@hotmail.com>
To: <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>; <will45817@yahoo.com>; <amatkins@qnet.com>;
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: KA24 swap vs. 1600 rebuild Vs L20B
> For all:
> Another option that might be cheaper/better would be to
> go with an L series engine. Look on the 510 sites,
> there are built up L16/18/20 engines avail for maybe around
> 500-1K in good shape. The L series should be easier to adapt
> than the KA motor, as its got old school stuff on it
> (carbs, points, minimal smog plumbing, no ECU etc)
> add a dog-leg 5 spd or a 280ZX 5spd and away you go.
> You would also be quite fast if you went with say
> a dual carb L20.
>
> For the 1600 dont assume that it needs total
> complete multi-thousand dollar work. You cant
> estimate cost until you pull it out and take
> it apart. Maybe you can live quite reliably
> for another 50K miles with a hone job and some
> rings, and a valve job and valve guides,
> timing gear and chain, and maybe a new oil
> pump and rod bearings for insurance.
> If you do most of the
> work yourself, you should have her running
> again for perhaps $500.
>
> Keep the faith! Dont get bummed by assuming the
> most expensive bad things will be wrong.
> Be inventive and look around.
>
> Best Regards,
> Jim
> Chesapeake Va
> >From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
> >Reply-To: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
> >To: "Will Slater" <will45817@yahoo.com>, "aaron atkins"
> ><amatkins@qnet.com>, "datsun list" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: KA24 swap vs. 1600 rebuild
> >Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 06:38:45 -0400
> >
> >You can't use the forklift pistons as they won't fit a 1600 but will fit
a
> >stroker. The costs of rebuilding an engine vary wildly depending on how
> >much
> >needs to be replaced such as pistons, cam, pushrods, valves and how
machine
> >work is needed such as new valve seats, boring the piston walls vs
honing,
> >resizing the rods etc.
> >
> >If your valves were never cut and the seats are OK you can possibly reuse
> >the valves and save the seats. If the cam is OK you can have it polished
up
> >or just leave it alone.
> >
> >I would use only Nissan OEM timing gears, either forklift or Roadster.
The
> >bearings are easily obtainable as are the timing chains and tensioner.
> >
> >Like I said the costs vary widely - it depends what you want to do and
what
> >needs to be replaced. The KA24 set up is nice but probably requires a lot
> >of
> >work and you don't know the condition of the engine or tranny. If you
think
> >rebuilding a 1600 is a lot wait untill you see how much a KA24 will cost.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Will Slater" <will45817@yahoo.com>
> >To: "aaron atkins" <amatkins@qnet.com>; "datsun list"
> ><datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 12:11 AM
> >Subject: Re: KA24 swap vs. 1600 rebuild
> >
> >
> > > I too am very intersted in this subject. Since my 1600
> > > engine is smoking badly I need to consider the
> > > options. I am wondering what such a rebuild would cost
> > > using forklift U20 engine parts. One lister gave me
> > > the url for a website for forklift parts and wonder
> > > what parts one can use and which ones will not work.
> > > The site is http://www.motorpowerinc.com/ As always
> > > TIA!
> > >
> > > --- aaron atkins <amatkins@qnet.com> wrote:
> > > > Well my overheating problem has been
> > > > found..FINALLY. And I feel pretty
> > > > dumb for not looking into it before. The timing
> > > > chain is stretched
> > > > extremely badly; there must be 20 degs. of slop in
> > > > it. With 110# of
> > > > compression and a bad timing set, I'm looking into
> > > > options again. Someday I
> > > > will learn to keep old e-mails from the list about
> > > > new webpages. Who has
> > > > the most comprehensive page about doing the KA24
> > > > swap?
> > > > The one thing I have not seen is a good dollar
> > > > for dollar comparison of
> > > > swapping vs. rebuilding (1600). Who has done a
> > > > complete re-build lately?
> > > > Assuming my crank only needs turning and my rods are
> > > > good, what does it cost
> > > > to do a COMPLETE re-build on a 1600? On the other
> > > > side of the coin; If I
> > > > could get a KA24 set-up (motor,trans,ECU) for about
> > > > $800.00, how much does
> > > > all of the little stuff (rad.,plumbing,mounts,misc)
> > > > cost? Has anybody
> > > > converted a KA24 or SR20 to carbs? I know this may
> > > > be a silly question, but
> > > > carbs are easy and I would not have to modify the
> > > > current system a whole
> > > > lot.
> > > > Finally, a couple of weeks ago I picked up a
> > > > Vintage Formula Vee
> > > > w/trailer. It is a barn fresh roller. The chassis
> > > > is super straight, and
> > > > all of the body work is present. I think I'm going
> > > > to sell it to finance
> > > > the Roadster project (some more). If anyone is
> > > > interested in it contact me
> > > > O/L.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Aaron
> > > > '67 1600
> > > >
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>
>
>
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