A lot of people use the "sticky" head gasket without any sealer and it seems to
work fine. I use Copper Cote because I've had very good results with it, and "if
it ain't broke, don't fix it."
My general approach has been to use minimal sealer when both surfaces are finely
machined (like head-to-block or behind the tensioners) and to use slightly more
in other situations (like head-to-exhaust manifold).
Gordon Glasgow
Renton, WA
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David R.
> Conrad
> Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2001 11:56 AM
> To: Gordon Glasgow
> Cc: Datsun List
> Subject: Re: Mahalo for the Kokua about My Pilikia (was:Kokua
> (help)Needed on Big Island...
>
>
> Gordon:
>
> Thanks for the response.
>
> In applying the Copper Cote to head, I masked off the combustion
> chambers, and, to
> the block, I "carefully" inserted a crumpled up paper towel in each
> cylinder bore.
> As for as the bolt holes, not much Copper Cote got inside but I did run a
> lubricated head bolt about a 1/2" into each hole insuring there was no
> "resistance".
>
> Based upon your experience and that of another person successfully
> using the Copper
> Cote, I'm beginning to conclude in my overzealousness to insure a
> tight joint, I
> screwed up.
>
> I think I'll have to remove the head and remove all of the compound
> (aarrrg!). The
> remaining head gasket I have, is a nice Nissan one in original
> plastic packaging
> with the block side sorta "tacky".
>
> Now I'm considering whether I should use Copper Cote at all.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Dave
>
> Gordon Glasgow wrote:
>
> > I don't really have any clues as to what's going on here, but,
> since I was one
> > of the ones that has said positive things about Copper Cote, I might mention
> > that I only put it on the gasket itself, not on the block and head.
> I'm not sure
> > how you would spray a coat of it on the block and not get it in the
> bores, bolt
> > holes, etc. unless you spent a whole lot of effort masking things
> off. I simply
> > spray both sides of the gasket and install it that way.
> >
> > Gordon Glasgow
> > Renton, WA
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> > > [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David R.
> > > Conrad
> > > Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2001 11:06 PM
> > > To: Datsun List
> > > Subject: Mahalo for the Kokua about My Pilikia (was:Kokua (help) Needed
> > > on Big Island...
> > >
> > >
> > > Many thanks to those who have responded with suggestions about my baffling
> > > problem. All I have received so far, I had already checked out with no
> > > success.
> > >
> > > I do have a further "clue" which I had neglected to mention. The
> more I think
> > > about it, the more I believe it has a strong implication as to
> the cause of my
> > > problem.
> > >
> > > After each time it has been started and run for about 5-10
> minutes (4 times
> > > since the head installation), I have pulled the plugs afterwards, for
> > > compression checks, valve adjustment and to get the points open for
> > > regapping. Each time I have pulled them I've examined the
> appearance of the
> > > electrodes. Very unusual. #'s 1, 3, and 4 all have a slightly "moist"
> > > appearance. Only #2 has a normal gray-tan "hot" appearance. The
> last time I
> > > put them back in, I replaced them in different cylinders.
> > >
> > > The one put in #2 became the one with the normal gray-tan look,
> losing its
> > > "slightly moist" look it had gotten in another cylinder.
> > >
> > > This suggests to me that maybe I didn't do a good job of
> installing the head
> > > gasket.
> > >
> > > It's the first time I had used the Permatex "Copper Cote"
> (someone on the list
> > > had touted it). The head surface was pristine, and had been checked for
> > > "trueness". I had cleaned the block surface as best I could, it
> was good and
> > > smooth. I then sprayed the Copper Cote evenly on both sides of
> the gasket and
> > > on the head and block mating surfaces. I torqued the
> (lubricated) bolts in
> > > the prescribed sequence, in three stages: 35 ft-lbs, 45 ft-lbs, and 50
> > > ft-lbs. The last time I had installed a roadster head gasket was about 20
> > > years ago, used the gasket "bare", and had no problems. Maybe I was
> > > overzealous this time :-(.
> > >
> > > It also suggests that *only* #2 is firing. I can't believe that's
> > > possible--for the engine to run on one cylinder!! Maybe the
> others are firing
> > > sporadically ??
> > >
> > > I really don't want to pull the head and install a new head gasket.
> > >
> > > I have already "pulled up" the head bolts back up to 50 ft-lbs
> before the last
> > > time the engine was run.
> > > Most, but not all, required a little additional turning to get
> back up to 50.
> > > Those that didn't, I backed off a little, then pulled back to 50.
> > >
> > > The same bad performance resulted--no apparent improvement.
> > >
> > > Questions:
> > >
> > > Don't my good compression check results (original "kokua" message) imply a
> > > good head gasket?
> > >
> > > What could be explanation of the spark plug appearance?
> > >
> > > Could it be actually running on one cylinder? --Nah!
> > >
> > > Any suggestions other than replacing the head gasket? Maybe
> backing all the
> > > head bolts off in the reverse sequence, then retorquing back to 50?
> > >
> > > All thoughts, recommendations, etc. are solicited.
> > >
> > > TIA,
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > '68 1600
> > > Kailua-Kona
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "David R. Conrad" wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hello List:
> > > >
> > > > My roadster suddenly started operating on three cylinders last
> July. Some
> > > > may recall an appeal from me for advice at that time. I again
> thank those
> > > > who offered opinions/suggestions. My initial diagnostics
> suggested a bad
> > > > valve in #1 cylinder. That *is* what it turned out to be, a triangular
> > > > shaped chip out of the exhaust valve of #1.
> > > >
> > > > Slowed down by heavy involvement in some home improvements, I
> finally got
> > > > the head off and to "Akamai (meaning 'da best!) Machine" for
> > > > reconditioning. Just after I left it with them, they closed
> down the shop
> > > > for a 2-week vacation. After a few delays in getting the parts (some
> > > > associated with the transportation delays after Sept. 11)
> > > >
> > > > Finally got the head back from Akamai Machine last week. Believe that
> > > > they did an excellent job. I put the engine back together last weekend
> > > > with high hopes that the car would run even better than before;
> it had been
> > > > running well before the valve failed.
> > > >
> > > > I adjusted the valves to .020 (cold) and performed compression
> checks. I
> > > > thought the results were quite good. "Dry" the mean value was 133 psi
> > > > (+1, -2), very consistent for two checks, and with 10cc of oil
> added, the
> > > > mean value was 145 (+/-) 3 psi.
> > > >
> > > > I made no changes to points and timing since it had been running well
> > > > before the valve failure.
> > > >
> > > > Then I went to start it (full of confidence). Was I disappointed!
> > > >
> > > > Very hard to start, and when started, it ran very irregularly, with
> > > > definite missing and occasional backfiring. It suggested that
> the timing
> > > > was off. The distributor hadn't been touched!
> > > >
> > > > Checked the dwell, and it was 59*, higher than when I had set it, maybe
> > > > influenced by the fact that the rpm had to be ~15k to keep it running.
> > > > (though I thought dwell was not rpm dependent). Anyhow I reset
> it to 50*
> > > > Then I tried adjusting the timing about 5* each way, advance/retard.
> > > > Seemed to run a little better at 5* retard (that is, rotating
> the dist. 5*
> > > > CCW--maybe that's advance, I don't remember).
> > > >
> > > > Anyhow, I've about run out of ideas and it still runs like crap.
> > > >
> > > > I would welcome any thoughts, and thanks in advance!!
> > > >
> > > > Dave
> > > >
> > > > '68 1600
> > > > Kailua-Kona
> > >
> > > ///
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> >
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