Hi Jim,
Simple principle - form a circuit with the device and the battery. Negative
is the ground, for most roadsters (includes yours) that means the chassis.
The positive lead wire must be capable of handling the load that the device
puts on the battery, so you should have a fuse that will blow before the
lead wire fails (and potentially causes a fire).
The map light by itself draws hardly any juice, so you have somehow shorted a
positive lead against the ground. I believe the map light is grounded by the
simple act of mounting it to the console box. There are 6 screws that mount the
console to the trans-tunnel, and they should provide a ground-path. Make sure
that the seat for the screws has a metal surface to contact the screws.
It sounds to me like you shorted out the bottom of the cigarette lighter against
the trans tunnel. You need to insulate that bottom (it is a positive lead)
against contacting any ground surface. Is the replacement cigarette lighter too
long to fit within the hole in the trans-tunnel? Buy a short power receptacle.
And it's also best to disconnect the battery when doing electrical work. I
learned that lesson as a teenager when a hot lead under the dash burned part-way
through my finger and I ended up at the emergency ward. Oh, it was my car.
Fred - So.SF
________________________ Reply Separator ___________________________
> Subject: Calling Ready Kilowatt
> Author: "Jim Plegue" <jandr95@home.com>
> Date: 5/26/2000 2:44 PM
>
> Okay electricians, help me out here. Installing the center console, I
> replaced the cig lighter (connects with just one wire, right?),
> rewired the map light,
> attached the map light ground to the screw on the underside of the
> console, went to attach
> the console to the trans tunnel and -- zap -- blew a fuse. What does
> this tell you, aside from
> the fact that I don't know diddly about electrical stuff?
>
> Jim
> Berkeley
> 70 1600
>
|