>I can see how to replace them all but how do I get out
>the bushing with the metal insert from the front of the longest leaf??
>
> Found out where all the gook on my rear was coming from. When
>the panhard rod?? ripped out it tooka little piece of the rear end housing
>with it and there was a little hole where gear oil was leaking out.
> Man I have theh best girlfriend, she spent half the afternoon
>scrubbing the rear end with degreaser (with super clean, I highly
>reccomend it
>
>I left it on for a while and it even took the old paint right off) and she
>brought me a six pack of beer!!!!! The housing is still not clean enough
>to paint and I don't know how in the heck I am going to get it so...
Daniel,
When replacing the control arm bushings on the front of 510's, the choice
is either to use a hydraulic press, to drill out the old rubber bushing
using a bit just small enough to fit between the inner and outer metal
sleeves, or burn it out with a torch. I drilled a series of holes through
the rubber around the inner sleeve and then used a propane torch to burn
the rubber enough to to release the inner sleeve.
On the 510 control arm there's also a thin metal sleeve that I cut out by
assembling a hacksaw with the blade inside and through this sleeve. I
then carefully cut through the sleeve which relieved the pressure holding
it in the control arm. The urethane replacement bushings don't use the
outer sleeve. I scrapped the inner sleeves clean using a utility knife,
scotch brite pads and emery cloth. If you find bushing outer sleeves,
make sure you're supposed to remove them before you do. If they stay, you
should be able to clean them as described above. If there's a substantial
difference on how to do this on your roadster, I'm sure someone will
speak up.
As for cleaning, have you tried spray on brake cleaner or brush on parts
cleaner? Scrape off as much of the greasy gunk with putty knifes, stiff
brushes, etc, first. Then use dishwashing liquid and water, maybe
concrete cleaner. It should be pretty clean by this time, but you could
go to the parts cleaner next. Stiff scrub brushes help here, too. Now you
should be able to wipe the parts down with lacquer thinner, wait a few
minutes for them to dry and then paint.
Now I need to take my own advice and get the '73 running.
HIH,
Ron
________________
Ronnie Day
rday@home.com
Dallas/Ft. Worth
'71 510 2-dr (Prepared class autocrosser)
'73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
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