This is from the lotus-cars list. I thought I would send it to chapman-era
too since there are several Elan owners. Rod
Randall Fehr <rsfehr@seanet.com> wrote on Date: 4/3/97 9:09 PM:
>Rod,
>The season's first Solo II event/school is this saturday, and I intend to
>run my Elan. I have dabbled in autocross over the years and, though I
>prefer track lapping, I am keen to improve my performance through the
>cones.
>I wonder if you may be so kind as to offer me a tip or two on getting a
>totally stock Elan Coupe around the cones in a tidy, efficient manner. I
>seem to be constantly fighting lack of grip and wheelspin. Though these
>problems are to be expected with 155-13s etc, it's the fighting that tells
>me I must be doing something wrong, like accelerating too hard or too soon
>coming out of corners. Perhaps you have some sort of motto, like Jackie
>Stewart's "be smooth", that I can plant in my head.
>Thanks in advance, and post your response to the list if you see fit.
Randall,
This is a big subject and it's hard to know how much to bite off here. If
this ends up being boring or too long for you or for the list, please don't
flame me. I'm just guessing at the level of advice to offer.
Slaloming is fun. Most important; have fun with it. Unless you really
want to make a concerted effort to do what it takes to win (a whole other
subject), keep a light attitude even though many around you may treat it
like F1. I think of the sport generically, not as defined by any one
organization.
The hardest thing for people to get used to in slaloming (slalom =
autocross = solo II... all the same thing) is that they have to train
themselves to see a road instead of the proverbial sea of pylons as they
drive. This comes with experience and is less of a problem than it would
seem, except the first time which doesn't apply in your case.
Walk the course first, if they let you, thinking of yourself as sitting
much lower (perspective is different) and traveling much faster and with
several things on your mind... revs, shifting... other than careful placing
of the car on the road (driving the optimum line). Some people like to
memorize all the details of the course. I don't memorize anything except
elements of the course which may be designed to trip people up by purposely
being UN-intuitive or where there is an intellectual choice to be made such
as an optional direction chicane. When I walk, I try to visualize the
flow, identify places where speed can be carried and where it can't
(without unacceptable penalties in time lost).
I *do* try to remember that flow as I'm about to run.
What makes Elans fast, even with decidedly non-optimal tires, is balance,
not tire grip or power (although Elans have more of both than many
non-Lotus people realize).
Make sure the tires are pumped up. I would start with around the high
thirties or low forties at the front and about 5 lb. less in the rear. If
they give you practice, you'll probably want to adjust to suit the specific
conditions, your preferences, etc. The right pressures will make the car
"pointable" without excessive understeer. That means it will willingly
rotate entering the turn in a throttle off condition, then *want* to get a
grip again with judicious throttle and steering inputs once pointed.
Without being there, my guess is the wheelspin you've gotten is due to
using too much power before the car is pointed (maybe combined with the
wrong tire pressures... possibly too much in the rears). Be careful not to
use too much power while you still have a lot of steering lock cranked
in... only enough to control the car in the turn (together with the use of
other tools). Once it is more or less pointed, and steering lock can be
reduced to very little to nothing, it's ready for serious power
application. This should happen *before* the apex, not *at* it.
Remember that stock Elans are softly-sprung, balanced cars. That means
that they are *very* sensitive to driver inputs. Unlike most modern cars,
they'll willingly do the wrong thing just as easily as the right thing if
the driver commands it. The soft springing makes it cumbersome to change
one's mind midstream if the wrong commands were initially given, so it's
important for the driver to do things (everything) smoothly and
deliberately (think of an extreme, like a baby buggy with steering and a
little engine but no shocks). Being well-balanced, Elans can be set up
early in a turn with the forces all distributed properly. And when that
happens, they can be faster than cars with big, sticky slalom tires. Being
light, response to any input is quick so it helps to get in tune with the
car somewhat before really going for it. The central theme of Elan driving
is *rhythm*. Use a light touch on the steering wheel, shift lever, brakes,
everything... except for exceptions ;-)
All this together puts a real premium on smoothness. But don't make the
(usually, unconsciously made) mistake of equating smoothness with
lethargic, gradualness. If you're pushing it, the timing and amplitude of
the inputs are important. All your inputs need to be made with precise
timing and appropriate (your judgment) quickness but always with smooth
blending of events, if you know what I mean.
If the situation is such that heavy braking is required deep into a turn
and the car still needs to be pointed (while avoiding understeer or
wheelspin), the last little bit of braking can be accompanied by a little
steering input so that the car does what ABS prevents (the rear slides) so
that the car can be pointed late in the turn without resorting to slowing
down unnecessarily.
Or, following regular braking, bits of throttle and steering inputs can be
used in concert to get it aimed at the exit apex. If pointing is done this
way, remember that the car still needs to be set on the outside rear
suspension, and the steering input at a minimum before a lot of power is
applied. Using power to point the car means that there is a time lag from
when the car has pointed to when you can use a lot of power to accelerate
out. The reason for this is that the spinning wheels, initially used as a
tool to destabilize the car, have a certain amount of inertia which has to
come down to a level where they'll start gripping under power (in this
situation, I sometimes put the clutch in momentarily so the wheel speed
will decrease faster ... if you do anything like this, remember to do
everything smoothly and softly to avoid upsetting the car any more than
intended).
Another way... Where shifting is involved, the way you engage the clutch
after downshifting can assist in directing the car quite nicely, if needed.
But you should really control it smoothly because what you're doing is
regulating rear wheel lockup (actually, slow-down) as with a flyoff
handbrake (use of the Elan emergency brake for handbrake turns only being
suggested for your competitors, of course, with the umbrella-type handle
being up under the dash!).
These are all tools and the best drivers use combinations where appropriate
rather than making rigid rules.
I always say to make judgments, not rules. Or, to be more accurate, make
all your rules with flexibility varying from rigid to fluid, then make
judgments.
I hope this was an appropriate response to your question.
Have fun!
Rod
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