The biggest problem in this case is that an insert tap is unique to that
brand and that size insert. I don't know if you can order a bottoming
version of an insert tap or not, I've never needed one. Cutting a regular
tap may be the only quick option.
Jon Arzt
>From: Randall Young <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
>Reply-To: Randall Young <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
>To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: TR7 BFH#24-d
>Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 16:37:39 -0800
>
>Bruce :
>
>Hand taps come in three different tapers, commonly known as 'taper', 'plug'
>and
>'bottoming'. If your set only has one taper of tap in each thread, it is
>most
>likely 'plug'. So, what you need is a 'bottoming' tap in the right size.
>Give
>your local hardware store a call, they may have one on the shelf. Be
>careful
>with the bottoming tap, they are easy to break (and if you think you've got
>problems now, just wait until you break a tap !) And yes, the procedure is
>to
>thread first with the plug tap, then remove it and finish with the
>bottoming
>tap.
>
>You can make a reasonable approximation to a bottoming tap by grinding away
>the
>end of an ordinary plug tap. A soft, fine grinding wheel works best, or
>you
>can use an abrasive cutoff wheel in a Dremel or die grinder. Be sure to
>use
>plenty of coolant to keep the tap cool, so you don't draw the temper. I
>use a
>plastic spray bottle, like Windex comes in, filled with water, to
>frequently
>spray both the tap and wheel. (You could probably use Windex for that
>matter,
>it's mostly water and the soap and alcohol won't hurt anything.) Don't let
>the
>tap get hot enough to discolor.
>
>Randall
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