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Re: Removing Ignition Switch '74MGB

To: billm@wmcbride.space.swri.edu
Subject: Re: Removing Ignition Switch '74MGB
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.wyvern.com>
Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 00:31:25 -0400 (EDT)
> 
> Are these the two bolts on the lock mechanism with "smooth" heads about 1/4" 
>in
> diameter that face the roof ?  Is there any trick to drilling them 
>out--should 
> they be center-punched first? What size drill bit should I use?  Where do you 

Yep, those are the critters. The actual head diameter is more like 1/2 inch.
1/4 inch is flat and rough (where it sheared on assembly), with outer edges
sloping downward. There are three ways to get these bolts out, of which I'll
tell two. :>

  Drill exactly down the center with a 11/32 bit. You'll need to center punch
the head. The actual bolt is 5/16 UNC. You drill until you cut through the
head to bolt area. Once both are drilled, the lock halfs will fall off, and
you can unwind the bolts remains from the lower part by hand.

  My semi normal method is to drill two small holes, about 1/8 inch, into the
sloping part of the head 180 degrees apart. Then take a small straight punch,
set it against the side of one of these holes, and hit it with a hammer. once
the bolt turns a bit, use a pair of needlenose or circlip pliers in the two
holes to spin it out. The bolts shouldn't be very tight, so it doesn't take
an extreme amount of force to get them moving.

> recommend that I get a replacement key and lock mechanism from?  Are the 
>shear 
> pins easy to replace, and can they be replaced with something other than a 
> shear pin?
> 

Try the standard mail sources, Seven, SICP, ECS, Moss, etc. I will say that as
of a few weeks ago, the later lock (77->) was "six-month backorder", which
means it's NLA, but we ain't gonna say that yet.

 
> Bill

   Randy
     randy@taylor.wyvern.com



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