In message <199405041807.MAA05701@triumph.cs.utah.edu> Will Zehring writes:
> Fellow fiends:
>snip
>
> What is the net.wisdom on replacement of the radiator core vrs.
> getting a whole new radiator (side stepping the issue of whether
> a new one is even available)?
>
Snip again
>
> Thanks for the time,
>
> Will "I'll be cruisin' by July" Zehring
There are a number of things that can be done to a radiator:
1. If your radiator is basically sound, but clogged and maybe has a leak, you
can get the radiator core rodded out (they unsolder the top & run a rod down
each of the core segments) and maybe a leak soldered.
2) If the core is in bad condition, you can have a new core installed. They
unsolder the top & bottom & resolder the pieces to a new core. You can often
get a higher capacity core that came from the factory. This works quite well as
long as the brass top & bottom parts are not crystalized & cracking.
3) If the brass top or bottom is crystalized and cracking along bent edges you
should replace the whole radiator. These cracks are easy to solder, but the
radiator will get new cracks frequently. These cracks are away from the already
soldered seams and generally occur where there are corners in the way it is
shaped.
Think positive, you green leak may have been a coolent overflow from an
incorrect pressure cap, blown hose or caused by a bad thermmostat. It may not
be the radiator's fault.
One thing I did with my MGBGT that has helped is I placed a GT6 overflow bottle
in front and to the side of the radiator and a hose to the radiator overflow.
The engine gets hot & fluid flows into the bottle. It cools down & it goes back
to the radiator.
TeriAnn
TeriAnn Wakeman Large format photographers look at the world
twakeman@apple.com upside down and backwards
LINK: TWAKEMAN
408-974-2344 TR3A - TS75519L, MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, 109 - 164000561
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