>The car runs great under load or at high revs. But let it idle down,
>and it will stumble. It doesn't die, but it... well, it misfires.
> SO I bought the Crane electronic
>ignition module to alleviate this problem. Car ran just the same.
>Actually the car started up and ran GREAT the first time. I was
>amazed. After shutting it down, cleaning up, etc, the car began to
>run the way it always did.
>I can't find any air leaks. (that doesn't mean their aren't any, but
>I can't find any!) If it does have a leak somewhere, it's not really
>bad. I'm dubious on how well the vacuum retard is working. You know,
>I pull the hose and nothing really happens.
Two things: have you checked the carb balance at idle? The carb
idle synchronization is separate from the on-throttle synchronization.
You want a Uni-syn or something like it. I assume you checked the throttle-
shafts for air leaks. Second, I would normally think it would run _better_
with the retard disconnected. When my retard kicks in (only below 1000 rpm)
my car misfires and hesitates, especially if it isn't 100% warmed up. Of
course, I may still have my timing too far retarded.
On the other hand supposedly the retard was added to reduce
emmisions. Does it ever kick in at non-idle speeds? (maybe when closing the
throttle at revs?) How does it reduce emmisions? Is it reasonable to just
disconnect it, since people have said that it hurts performance and fuel
economy?
Randell Jesup ('70 TR6, with vacuum advance AND retard).
|