>I've heard that brake line fittings on some LBC's are odd (for US) - maybe
>Whitworth threads? Can I buy the fittings readily in the US and make the
>lines myself?
The flares are actually different. You either need to buy a flaring tool
and or just buy pre-sized lines. Most of the main LBC suppliers have the
lines
and a few have the flaring tool.
>Does anyone know the recommended minimum thickness for Midget disk brake
>rotors? The wire wheel compatible ones I have seem to be pretty smooth,
>but have surface rust, and are alot thinner than most modern disks I've
>seen.
Years ago I spent about a week turning my rotors with similar problems. I
got
them real smooth, but had gone past the legal limit, too thin. (The
numbers
are in my manual at home......). Then I discovered a new set would only
cost
me $40. I suspect the new set would still make a lot of sense. Its
pretty easy
to put them in ( I like to stop as well as go)
>I've heard mention several times of 'cracks' in the A-arm pivot points
>being a problem - can I visually inspect for these, or do I need to
>get my A-arms magnafluxed or something?
This certainly can be a problem, although I've only had it on my
"racing" front end when I had a big antisway bar and tube shocks
up front. With standard equipment I've had no problems. Certainly
take a good look at a minimum, it is an awful feeling when they
come apart.
>Before I can visually inspect, I need to clean these puppies up a bit -
>anyone have any recommendations on cleaner/degreasers that are preferably
>both strong, and safe (I've got preschoolers and animals at home) but
>mainly safe?
sure, the safest is soap and water. Dawn is my personal favorite as it
leaves behing extremely little residue. Just dry the parts well when done.
Good luck getting it all back together. Mine used to be covered with snow,
now it is covered with ice. There is a rumor of a thaw soon......
Mark M. Banaszak Holl
Brown University
401-863-2738
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