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Spitfire hardtop fitting - tales of

To: british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: Spitfire hardtop fitting - tales of
From: Simon Waddington <waddy@vsfl.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 94 18:56:07 GMT
Hi, I've just finished fitting a factory hardtop to my Spit 1500.
I'm pretty sure its an orignal one due to the paint on it - it having
been repainted in black primer ready for paint to midnight blue which
is the colour of my Spit (yeah I know its not kosher Spitfire colour
but that's the way it was when I got it), underneath it's the 
original yellow. The top has no headlining - I've decided not to
bother since I'm not that bothered with the interior apprearences. By
all accounts fitting a headlining is not a trivial matter, is quite
expensive and gives nothing more than a cosmetic improvement.

I had to replace the rear roof to deck seal (a furry one) and the
front one to the windscreen header rail. (Cost about 20 pounds, I
could probably have got them from an autojumble for a lot less).

I had to buy two front, tappered bolts and two rear bolts. I am not
bothering with the two side ones... a) the holes on the top and body
don't quite match up and b) all the people who I have spoken to say
they got by without them just fine.

I thought I was missing a seal or finisher around the bottom rear
edge of the top - mine just ended in play (rusty) metal. It wasn't
clear until I got the top on that this does not end up directly on the
deck, pretty close but not actually on it, and no finsher or seal 
is required.  Apparently top small rubber blocks should be between
the top and the deck to ensure they are kept apart and no damage is
done, I made do with so thick tape all around the bottom edge.

The top is still missing the lhs quarterlight window seal - I couldn't
find a UK source for them, if anyone knows where I can get one (from
the UK please) drop me a line, ta.

I tried actually fitting the top once myself - I managed to lift the
top on and off the car THREE times without damaging anything (on the
car off course - I don't care about me).  It was quite heavy but
not impossible if you're prepared to clamber around over the car. I'd
recommend someone to help lift it on.

Why did I lift it on and off three times?  Because I just couldn't
manage to get the front bolts into the retained nuts in the hard top
at the same time as the rear ones.  I managed front one side but
not the back and then back but not the front.  The tapered bolts I
had were not very tapered and were a devil of a job to get to locate
into the retained nuts. Eventually I gave up (this was November).

At the weekend I got my brother to help with another attempt and we
discovered the secret. Sit the top about an inch back further than the final
position (almost on top of the filler cap) and raise the rear up by about
four inches (with a block of wood or a helper). Then pull the top forward
top meet the header rail at the front. The holes for the bolts and the bolts
will now be correctly alligned at the right angle so they will bite into
the retained nuts.  Then when both sides are done up a bit lower the 
rear of the roof and push it forward till you can see through the rear
bolt holes in the hardtop to the holes on the rear of the car. You may need to
put a bolt in the hole as you do this to ensure it stays clear of the
rubber seal which may otherwise just lodged over the hole.

I left my soft top on the car but I may remove it now for a bit more
room and so I can hear the radio a bit better (the speakers are mounted
into the rear behind the seats). Also it'll be probably better for the
top to avoid getting it creased up and to let me get the scratched
rear window replaced (hopefully). All I had to do was undo the two bolts on
the clamp at the rear of the soft top, the top then neatly folds down
completely into the car.

And that's it. Quite simple really but I hope the above info was of
some use to someone.

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