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Re: Rebuild surprise and questions

To: british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rebuild surprise and questions
From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1993 08:27:31 PST
Don't use rtv instead of gaskets. Get the real thing, clean the mating
surfaces well and seal them properly with Wellseal, Hylomar or Permatex
Aviation. RTV will creep and break off at the worst times, leaving crud
in your crankcase and oil passages.

The sound deadening on the timing cover is just some sort of
asbestos-bases dense foam; I have no idea what the original material
was, and it's probably not worth replacing. I haven't got any good
ideas about what modern material you could place there that would stand
the heat and oil environment.

I've just sprayed my exhaust manifold with Aervoe high-temp paint - it
looks very pretty but I have no idea how it will hold up. I had it off,
and decided I was tired of the rusty look. If you want to try a
different experiment, so we'll have two data points, get some of
Eastwood's stainless steel manifold paint and try it!

"The bolt (half threaded near head, rest smooth) that goes in the shaft
on the transmission that actuates the clutch" ... oh, that bolt.
Actually, it's a tapered pin. Get it out with an extractor or have a
machine shop get it out with a plasma cutter. Get a heavy-duty
replacement from Moss and safety wire it. If you really want to fix it
and don't mind compromising originality, you can do Ken Gillanders's
modification, which consists of another (grade 8, 5/16 diameter) bolt
installed by drilling through the fork and shaft at 90 degrees to the
pin. You have to choose bolt length carefully, just long enough to
allow a nut at the other end but not foul the transmission. Do a test assembly, 
if
nothing fouls, torque to 30 ft lb and use loctite.

If you're contemplating having cam work done, it might be worth your while to
put in a different cam. Ken and Bob Schaller both report good results with the
"260M" cam developed by Babe Erson, available from BF&E. Uprated valve springs
are probably a good idea no matter what you do (the stock valve springs
are "junk" and will probably cost you an exhaust valve in 10K miles).

BTW, much of this information is gathered in the three volumes of "Tech Talk"
from the Triumph Register of Southern California. Each volume is about $13. I
usually keep a few in stock, but am currently out - order them yourself from

TRSC Regalia
c/o Dick Ames
27301 Via Rioja
Mission Viejo, CA 92691.

V1 is $13, mostly four cylinder TRs. V2 is $15, covers both 4 and 6, V3 is
$12.50 and is specifically about high performance (street, vintage, drag...)


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