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Thoughts on some recent postings:
Re: Larry Snyder's GT6+ -- it's possible that your problem with
hard left turns is fuel starvation. I seem to remember such a
problem occurring during a major U.S. enthusiast magazine's road
test of a GT6. Regardless, I DID
experience similar problems years ago with my 1970 GT6+, mostly
in autocross situations. (BTW, this is one of the very few
instances where I would recommend checking fuel system before
ignition system.) Perhaps a low float level is to blame.
Re: Christian Denzler's GT6+ -- for what it's worth to anyone
living with Delco distributors in their Spitfires and GT6s,
years ago I was in similar desperate need of a rotor for the
GT6+. Fortunately I was only stranded in my driveway...next to
my 1951 Chevy....Yeah, same rotor! Cap is similar, too, although
I never needed to see if it worked. Being a real Delco Remy
part, it worked great.
Back in the mid- to late-1970s, Bosch used to make or repackage
somebody's ignition parts for Delco distributors. At the time,
it was the best, by far, stuff I could find at any price. Parts
were well finished, they fit perfectly and were quite durable.
Additionally, the point sets were units (not like some of the
junk out there that snaps together, sort of, resulting in
contact points that don't begin to align with each other) and
they were real ventilated points, to me a must if you plan on
putting more than a few hundred miles on a set of points. Blue
Streak and other such companies also made pretty good stuff,
too. I don't know what's out there currently, but the last point
set my partner bought for our Spitfire 4 autocross car was so
bad that we could barely make them work at all! It's one thing
to spend a little time fitting a repro body panel; it's another
thing to have to do the same with something like points!
Re: Dave Kai-Chui Chu's 1978 Spitfire -- personally, I wouldn't
worry too much about lubricating the ball joints. I've seen
special needle-type grease gun adapters advertised and they
probably work. With these ball joints, though, by the time you
need to lubricate them (they're supposed to be lubed for life),
they are probably due to be replaced.
Having had Heralds, Spitfires and GT6s in the family since 1964,
most of them as much-used daily drivers, I can honestly say that
I've never had one of these fail on the road. One usually will
get more than enough visual and, later, through the steering
wheel warning of worn ball joints. I have also had to replace
relatively few over the years. My guess is that they should last
anywhere from 30,000-60,000 miles, after which they can be
replaced easily. Last I knew, they weren't too expensive. With a
jack, a couple of spanners and the right "pickle fork" you can
do each one in about 15-20 minutes. Ball joints with grease
fittings may still be available; I haven't bought any in quite a
while. All of the above applies to tie rod ends on small
Triumphs as well, in my experience. I think of these items on
small Triumphs the way I think of the driveline U-joints; they
are wearing items that usually should be replaced at *major*
service intervals.
One more thing: DO keep an eye (and an oil gun) on those lower
trunnions. Again, my own experience with these is that: (a)
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neglected ones will give you some warning, in the form of
difficult steering; or (b) neglected ones will give you NO
warning whatsoever, but will just suddenly snap. I've had both
situations happen. The latter fortunately took place AFTER a
quick drive through heavily trafficked bridge/off ramp areas: on
a slow, right-hand
turn, the left lower trunnion just snapped off, giving me one
quarter of a low-rider Spitfire 1500, and no way to move it or
the other three corners except via sling tow. (Kinda fun,
though, to watch city buses slalom around ME for a change!)
-- Andy *give me Lucas electrics any day as opposed to the
Bosch/Hella/SWF/Electrolux mess of a system in our 1974 Belgian-
built Volvo* Mace
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