On Sep 29, 4:01pm, ahart@geis.geis.com wrote about his hygroscopic LIC:
> [...] I pulled the spark plugs and cranked the engine over and copious
> amounts of water and fuel spewed from the cylinders. This did not make me
> happy.
>
> [...] Runs pretty rough, doesn't want to idle. But, it is running!
> Unfortunately, when I let it die, it won't restart. It still cranks, but no
> combustion.
> [...] What other components might be involved in this type of failure mode?
The entire water-logged ignition system. This is *usually* what casues a car
to stall when fording minor waterways. (Tho it seams your LIC also aspirated
quite a bit of water too!) Dry out the ignition system, starting with the
distributor.
> Things I have done so far:
>
> Changed Air Filter and Plugs
> Connected and re-connected every connector I could find
> checked all Fuses
Change the oil. There *will* be water in the crank case if there was water in
the cylinders. (But this, of course, has nothing to do with it not starting.)
> Learned to cuss in Italian (I got a book. Thought it might be a language
> problem)
Very insightful and imaginative. Too bad it didn't help. ;^)
Pat Vilbrandt Fluke Corporation Everett, Washington USA
pwv@tc.fluke.COM or: { uunet, uw-beaver, sun, microsoft }!fluke!pwv
From rwg1@cornell.edu Tue Sep 11 11:47:08 2001
From: (Roger Garnett) rwg1@cornell.edu
To: (British Cars) british-cars@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1993 09:46:40
Subject: Re: Carbs & Upgrades
Kendall Asks:
> I'm sure we've been over this before, but is
> the Weber 32/36 DGV downdraft carb a worth
> while investment for a relatively stock MGB
> motor? Will it make my B more reliable, or can
> I get decent reliability out of fresh SUs.
You might expect this from me, but:
Yes, the SU's should be quite reliable, and perform well. They can even be
modified some, to match any changes to the rest of the engine. Webers are
best used to match an upgrade other parts of the *system* as well. In
order for any carbs to work properly, you need a well tuned engine in good
shape. Your '67 with an 18GB engine has a reasonable distributor (if in
good shape), and about the best version of the HS4's.
Tuning the base mixture SU's requires turning a nut. If the engine is non-
stock, you may need a different needle profile.
Tuning Webers requires a selection of jets for fuel, and air, for both idle
and power circuits. Non-standard engines will need a wider selection to
chose form.
Basic stages to a well performing stock engine, which will beat a tired
engine with haphazard performance add-ons:
With what you've got: ($30-100)
-Tune up. Plugs, points, wires, filters, cap, timing, valve clearances.
-Carb rebuild- Clean-up, new seals & needles come in the kit. Rebush
throttle shafts if worn. Now you can adjust the carbs.
Stock rebuild: ($500-1500)
-A fresh bottom end, which will provide properly sealing rings, along with
good bearings. May include new pistons, or rebore if worn. Also includes a
new timing chain to get rid of timing variations. New oil pump.
-A rebuilt head, for good valve sealing. This is a good time to consider a
lead-free head (hardened seats, guides, valves). Possibly new valve springs.
New or reconditioned rocker shaft & rockers will improve valve operation,
smoothness.
-New stock cam (if worn) & lifters (always with a new cam)
-Rebush distributor shaft if sloppy, and make sure the points plate doesn't
wobble about.
If you've done the above, and really have too much money to spend, you
might consider the down-draft Webers, (32-36DCV) or similar carbs. Or, you
may find you're now happy with your SU's, cuz things are working properly!
Mild & Reliable upgrades- these can be done fairly cheaply, one at a time,
but all effect will affect the overall *system* and may change economy &
emmissions, as well as requiring other changes, such as a richer needle
profile change for SU's (Jets in others), distributor changes, etc. The
main object of these mods is to improve flow through the *system* and thus,
improve performance. While some of these may help individually, they can
actually decrease performance unless you modify the whole *system*
accordingly.
Probably in this order of importance:
-Freer flow air filters, the cheapist form being to use stock
filters, and replace the stock outer housing with a cover plate, thereby
unshrouding the filter. Elsewise, aftermarket filters, such as K&N
reuseable filters.
-Free flow exhaust system. Easily obtainable and installed.
-Exhaust headers.
-Porting & polishing of the head, manifolds. (very careful here.)
-Mild after-market camshaft. Don't even bother with this one unless you do
the rest, and don't run a race cam on the street.
-Electronic ignition system (not required tho...)
-At this point, it may be better to consider carb upgrades. SU's can be
ported for better flow, or you can upgrade to the next size SU. (and intake
manifold) Down-draft Webers are probably best for stock or mildly improved
engines & fuel economy. Side draft Webers and clones are best for outright
performance engines, which are a whole 'nother topic.
* Did I remember to mention that this is all a system? Changes made in one
part must be complemented with changes and adjustments throughout the rest
of the system, or you can end up with poorer performance and reliability
than you started with. It's no fun to spend hundreds of $$$ to have a
slower car that uses more gas...
Roger -I have a 5 cars with stock twin SU's, but my little race
tuned 948 Bugeye Sprite has massive 45DCOE Webers- Garnett
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