I've used several de-rusting chemicals to remove rust from various small
parts I've restored on the snake. Mostly I've used Naval Jelly and
similar phosphoric acid based gels. I've also used Metalprep, and for
really bad rust cases, muriatic acid. Besides these acid de-rusters
there are a number of "organic", environmentally safe de-rusters on the
market and I've used a couple of these too. According to the label on
one of these organic de-rusters it's an oxygen scanvenger, but I would
imagine that all de-rusters are. These chemicals seem to work about as
well as Naval Jelly and like Naval Jelly leave a dull residue on the
surface of the metal after treatment. My question is this: Do these
organic de-rusters work the same way as the acid based ones do? One
problem with acid based rust removers is hydrogen embrittlement, which
means they can't be used on certain steel alloys like springs or case
hardened pieces. Are there any de-rusting chemical (for home use) that
do not cause hydrogen embrittlement in such alloys? How about these so
called environmentally safe de-rusters.
I've asked this question before, both on the british-cars list and in
the alt.antique.autos newsgroup, but have only received more or less
speculative answers. Are there any chemists on this list with some
expertise in this area? How about some references to articles or books.
A recent issue of CLASSIC AUTO RESTORER did have an article on rust
removers but it was mostly a product list and didn't give any technical
details about how they work.
Also something I've mentioned before- trisodium phosphate crystals in
water works very well as a paint remover for small parts. A little
heat speed things up a lot. Drano in place of TSP works even better but
I wouldn't try this on non steel parts. About 1/2 an hour at just below
boiling and the toughest paint comes off right down to bare metal. Sure
wished I could use this trick on my snake body.
Roland Dudley
cobra@hpcdcsn.cdc.hp.com
CSX2282
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