Dennis S. Lindell asks about TR-7's...
}
}What condition (on the SOL scale) should these cars be in for the prices?
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}What positive and negative attributes, specific to the TR7, should I look for?
Bill Sohl and I worked up a TR7-8 fact sheet awhile ago. It's still a
bit incomplete, so anyone who feels motivated, feel free to fill in the
blanks.
/\ Lawrence Buja Climate and Global Dynamics Division
\_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
\_________________________Boulder,_Colorado___80307-3000__________
TR-7 and TR-8
OVERVIEW:
- The TR-7 engine is an 95hp iron 2L straight-4 matched to 4 & 5
speed trans. Top speeds are around 110 mph, 0-60 in 11 sec.
- Automatic transmissions were available from 1979 until the end
of production for both the TR-7 and the TR-8.
- Fixed head TR-7's were manufactured from 1975-1980. Prices
generally range from $500-$7000
- Convertible TR-7's were manufactured from 1979-1981. Prices
generally range from $1000-$6000
- Special editions:
Rally: Spoke wheels, stripes + other stuff
Anniversary: ?
Spyder: The Best. Convertible, Black with red letters
Alloy wheels?
- The TR-8 (aka TR-7 V8) were available in the US only. These are
the most desirable examples of this style. Upgrades include a
lightweight aluminum 130hp 3.5L Rover/Buick V8, enhanced
brakes/cooling and suspension. Top speeds ~120 mph, 0-60 in
8.4sec. Most had 5-speed transmissions. Prices range from
$5K-$12K.
- There are about 150 or so prototype TR-8 coupes that were
imported to the USA in 1978/79. None of those cars were sold as
new, although most were, infact, eventually sold off as used
cars. A good portion of the prototypes had automatic gearboxes.
- TR-8's were sold in Europe and Canada, although not in large
numbers. 90 percent of all TR-8 production came to the USA. Of
the total TR-8 production, most are 1980 models.
PRODUCTION:
1975: ?? coupes,
1976: Victory edition released this year?
?? coupes
1977: Rally edition released this year?
?? coupes
1978: Spider editon release this year? Prototype TR-8 coupes appear.
?? TR-7 coupes
?? TR-8 coupes:
1979: TR-7 convertible introduced, bulge in hood appears.
?? TR-7 coupes
?? TR-7 convertibles
?? TR-8 coupes:
1980: TR-8 coupes and convertibles introduced, FI appears in CA.
?? TR-7 coupes
?? TR-7 convertibles
100 TR-8 coupes: ("A" VIN code)
2500 TR-8 convertibles: (Non-CA were Carb'd. CA cars had FI)
1981: Last Year of production. All are Fuel Injected.
0 TR-7 coupes
?? TR-7 convertibles
300 TR-8 convertibles (196 US, ~80 Canada) ("B" code)
1982: ~20 TR-8 convertivles imported to Canada ("C" code)
PROBLEMS:
- The TR-7 straight-4 engine is not one of the finest that Triumph
ever made. Bottom half is cast iron, top half aluminium. Early
models experienced problems with warped heads, head gasket
trouble, etc.
- The 4-speed transmissions are considered trouble. The 5-speeds
have a much better reputation.
- The TR-8 V-8 engine is considered relatively robust, having gone
though a very long term evolution.
- Many TR7/8's are prone to electrical problems (usually lousy
switches and the like).
- Early TR-7's have a rather tarnished reputation due to quality
control problems. Things seem to have improved after 1979.
- Braking distance was never a high point with either the TR-7's
or 8's.
- Despite the bad reputation, the TR-7 can be a good car with
proper maintenance and attention.
GENERAL PURCHASING RULES:
1. Try to find a TR-8 :-)
2. Avoid the 4-speed trans at all costs (75-76)
3. Avoid 7's with the outline TR-7 decals (75-77?)
4. Avoid early 7's if possible (75-77)
5. The later the better (80-81 the best)
6. Convertibles were made during the best years (79-81)
7. The TR-8 alloy wheels appeared on some later TR-7's.
These are worth $.
8. Much of the interior and some engine stuff is plastic.
Watch for damage.
9 Make sure that the electrics work. Dipping headlights
are expensive to replace.
10. Check wheel wells for damage.
11. Many 7-8's have had their front air dams ripped off.
Check dam mounts and bottom of radiator for damage.
12. Check the rear suspension carefully for damage.
13. 7's were susceptible to overheating. Watch for warped head:
(White exhaust smoke, low compression, comtaminated oil)
14. Make sure the original emmissions equip is still
there. Replacement is expen$ive
15. Parts places are too numerous to mention
Moss, VB, Roadster Factory, TS Imports etc...
--
The following is excerpted from an article in the August 1990 issue of
Thoroughbred & Classic Cars titled "TR7 - Classic Choice", written by
Graham Robson. I've sent the entire article (with pictures) to David
Huddleson for possible future publication in the TR8CCA newsletter.
"Thoroughbred & Classic Cars" is the American name for the British
magazine "Classic Cars".
BEGIN QUOTED MATERIAL:
What to look for
Although the TR7 has been out of production for nine years, we have
not heard of a restoration specialist. Enthusiasts must rely on Rover
dealerships for parts supply, and on fading memories for restoration
expertise.
Charles Golding of Dennis Golding Motor Engineers, Chingford (tel.
081-529-7979) not only used to run the workshop at the old
Triumph-London service centre on Western Avenue, but has rallied an
ex-works TR8 and has worked on many other TR7s in the past few years.
His TR7 experience is both good, and bad...
Bodywork
" Except in isolated areas, the TR7/TR8 monocoque structure seems to
last well, until rust takes hold in several important places. Coupes
and convertibles have a similar corrosion record and there are some
awfully rotten TR7s about these days, since the oldest UK market
examples are nearly 15 years old. Although the whole car is susceptible
to rust when it gets older - none of the shell is galvanized, or treated
with ultra-efficient corrosion proofing material - the worst visible
area of the shell is the seam at the rear wing/sill junction; it's
external, and open, and can rot right through.
The biggest potential structure problem is where the rear suspension
trailing arms pivot from the underside of the floor; at this point there
is flexure, which tends to rot. To spot corrosion signs slide the seats
forward, lift up the carpets and look at the floorpan from inside the
car. Dennis has actually seen this section pulling out of the floor.
The semi-trailing arm locations, on the other hand, are higher and
better protected, and rarely give trouble.
More potential trouble spots are the front suspension turrets, which
are heavily stressed, and the front and rear wings (inner *and* outer,
where there are water and filth traps). But here's a cautionary comment
- not only do rear wings rot, along with the inner panels, but
replacement parts are no longer available from factory sources. The
headlamp pods are cast aluminium and regularly shed their paint.
The panel at the base of the screen, when removed, exposes a water
trap which may have attacked the whole of the bulkhead. The bonnet and
boot panels, where double-skinned, can start to blister through. Any
car offered with filler at the corners can be hiding real trouble
elsewhere.
The entire front suspension and steering is supported by a sturdy
sub-frame, which looks expensive. Unlike those fitted to Minis,
however, these seeem to be very robust and should not have gone
seriously rusty."
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