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RE: Value of a Europa and my Europa progress

To: coryc@sequent.com (Cory Carpenter)
Subject: RE: Value of a Europa and my Europa progress
From: pwcs.StPaul.GOV!phile@medtron.medtronic.COM (Philip J Ethier)
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 92 14:53:50 CDT
Cory Carpenter writes\
in response to Dave \>

\I would say that it's
\worth closer to $3K, based on what I know about Europa values with my
\(admittedly) low exposure.  Phil Ethier paid about the same for his ('71?) 

Lotus 65, stated as a 1970 model, built in late 1969, I think.

\as I did for my '69, about $3500 -- and I paid a little too much,
\considering the condition mine was in at the time.

Well, mine was drivable (the lack of side mirrors notwithstanding, this is more 
important than you can imagine if you have never driven one).  This makes one 
more confident that one is not getting a pig in a poke.  I know that all the 
gears work, for example.  The Weber and header add to the value for me, but the 
lack of the original carb/manifold would irk one who wanted to restore the car 
to original.  The recent engine rebuild helped, too.

\I did the 'glasswork and repainted mine myself, shooting at a minimum of a
\ten-year-old paint job look, and was able to achieve an exterior that
\looks about five years old (first time I've painted a car).  

I will be happy if mine looks like a race car paint job.

\If you pay someone else to do what you can do yourself,
\you're bound to get reamed.

Amen.

\However, I didn't think that
\replacing the dash was any worse than underdash work on any other car, and in
\some respects easier, since once everything's disconnected, the whole thing
\just pulls out.

I intend to retain some of the connectors the previous owner had, so I can 
still remove the dash so easily.  Even more easily, as I plan on taking half 
the weight off it!

\>72 is before the Big Valve head became available, if memory serves,

I believe this is a Big Valve.

\>and it's a 4 speed, so it's not 
\>a sought-after engine/tranny combination either.

I thought five-speeds were rare enough that most people would not expect one, 
but I may be thinking about Elans, here.

\This I'm not too clear on:  I'd assume that dual carbs implies a twin-cam,
\which could boost the value into the $8K range, from what I've seen.

Yes, this is a Big Valve Twin Cam.

\DIY is always an order of magnitude cheaper than having a shop rebuild it.

Damn, I am saving money, here!

\I'm ambivalent on the clutch -- I prefer hydraulic, but don't mind the
\cable in my Europa, although it would be one mother to replace if it
\ever broke.

Really?  I have taken out the cable on mine for the body-off.  Didn't seem that 
bad a job.  'Course, I haven't tried refitting it yet. :-)  Or were you 
concerned about the problem of finding the part?

\I'd have to see the pedals -- IMHO, it'd be tough to
\improve on the ones that Colin installed.

The clutch and brake are ok, but I don't know about this loony pendant gas 
pedal.  I thought it was home brew when I first saw it.  I may want to replace 
it.  I will try it for a bit after I re-align the cable.

\the 12" diameter steering wheel is likely stock, or if not, is
\the same dia. as the stock wheel.

I wish I had a proper-fitting 12" with the way-cool Lotus-emblem horn push.

Other things first, like the current progress in my Body-Off Resuscitation.
Restoration is not the goal, usability and preservation of a working sports car 
is the goal.

I took some photos of the chassis yesterday.  (Someone asked me if they were 
"Before and After" shots.  I told her that if you don't take the "Before" 
shots, there may never be "After" to shoot, as you may not get it back 
together!)   Then I rolled it back into the garage and started removing brake 
lines.  I took them off in the biggest assemblies possible, writing notes about 
each, race-taping the notes to the pieces and hanging them on the garage wall. 
 I have quite a collection of labeled cardboard boxes, some containing several 
labeled margarine tubs.  

My current plan is to: 

Strip all the little stuff off the frame proper.

Build a cradle on my flat dolly, support the engine/gearbox on it and take the 
rear suspension off, keeping big assemblies together, even letting the brake 
hoses dangle.  Then lift the rear of the frame off the engine/gearbox, and roll 
it away on the front wheels like a big wheelbarrow.  At some point, I will 
split the engine/gearbox and check/replace the clutch and throwout.

Take off the front suspensions and keep them in two big lumps.

Finish getting stuff out of the inside of the frame.

Get frame dipped/stripped.  Then either dip-primed or galvanized or ?

Then take one assembly at a time and disassemble only one side assembly, 
dip/strip etc. (goal is not pretty, goal is low-maintenance durability).  Then 
reassemble on the car the good stuff before disassembling the stuff for the 
other side.  Front suspension first, then install engine/gearbox and build the 
rear suspension around it, one side at a time.

Little stuff gets put back on the frame proper.  Make all new brake lines 
(using old ones for pattern), clean up the old fittings and reinstall in stock 
positions.

Then, with the exception of a few knickknacks on the body, the body can be 
reintroduced to the frame.

Then the bodywork and wiring begin in earnest.

So far, the news is pretty good.  One of the four brake-line tabs is broken off 
its welded position on the frame.  A previous owner must have broken it off 
whilst replacing a brake hose, as it is not possible for it to fall off the 
line, even after breaking off the frame.   I will produce one and bolt it on 
over the remains of the original.

The big bolts that hold the front upper A-arm, top of coil-ever, and swaybar 
mounts, have a reputation for non-removability.  On each side, I was able to 
loosen the nut all the way out to the end of the threads with no trouble.  Then 
I whacked it with a plastic hammer. It slides freely, giving me hope that when 
the time comes, it will come right out.  This is a LOT easier with the body 
off.  Normally, this bolt must be withdrawn into the footbox. The lower inboard 
mounts, which are welded into the frame, also appear to be cooperative, the 
nuts are loosen-able. 

A long road to go...

Phil Ethier, THE RIGHT LINE, 672 Orleans Street, Saint Paul, MN  55107-2676
h (612) 224-3105     lotus@pnet51.orb.mn.org
w (612) 298-5324     phile@pwcs.stpaul.gov  (list goes here)
"The workingman's GT-40" - Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman


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