RE: TR front suspension:
>
> Mine got real nasty at about 50-55 (of course it still does, but
> nowhere near as bad now. What it needs now is a proper alignment, and
> maybe some realignment of the RF shock tower. And of course a rear carb
My Scimitar has the stock TR4/6 front suspension and when I first bought
the car, it would wander badly at speed, and suffered from bump steering,
i.e. every time I hit a sharp bump, the car would dart off in an upredicatble
dierection. It made cantrol of the car very difficult.
I replaced the inner bushes, both top and bottom (replacing them with urethene),
the top ball joint, and finally replaced the bottom trunnions.
I noticed that the wandering/bump steer had not really improved.
So I had a front end aligned and it was a bit better but still not
as good as I expected it to be. Over the next couple of months I
started fiddling around with the caster/camber/toe and finally got it to
the point that I was happy with.
I again went to get the front end aligned and found thet I had the front
suspension set to the specs in the manual. The difference with the first
alignment and the second, was thet the first shop only checked the toe and
the camber, while the second shop checked all three settings in relation to
each other (at the time I found the the car was lower on one side than
the other by 1/2").
The point I am trying to make, is that caster/camber/toe are VERY crucial
on this type of suspension (at least on the Scimitar) and the being slightly
out on one of the setting makes a BIG difference.
My advice would be :
1. Check that the car is sitting square ie does not sag side to side or
back to front.
2. Replace anything on the front suspension that is doubtfull.
3. Get the front alignement done by an reputable shop, and have them set
everything according to the workshop manual.
PS I am assuming that the chassis is straight and not benn involved in
an accident !!!!!
>Why are trunnions made of brass?
I don't know, but the Scimitar Owners Club advised taking the trunnions
to a machine shop and have hem drill them out and insert a stainless
steel sleeve inside. For lubrication the bottom of the trunnion is tapped
out and grease nipple inserted for lubrication. I have seen several of these
modifications performed with no ill effects, and the trunnions will litterally
last for ever. If they do wear, then a new sleeve is inserted.
Someone recently posted a question about vibration in their MGB gearbox,
things to cjeck may include :
1. Propshaft U/J's, are the worn ?
2. Propshaft balanced ?
3. Check the torque of the bolt on the output shaft of the gearbox ( at the
back of the gearbox where drive shaft exists the gearbox. If you have an
overdrive unit, you will have to remove this to get at the bolt. If this
is slightly loose, it will allow the outshaft to run slightly eccentric.
I had the same problem on the Scimitar, that whenever accelarating,
I have low frequency vibration. Tightening this bolt cured the problem.
Latest saga on the Midget : I unfortunaly damaged the main bearings
last week, which has forced me to remove the engine and have the crank
reground. At the same time I am going to have the engined rebored and fit
new pistons and rings. I am debating whether to fit high compression pistons
(10:1) or stay with the original compression (9:1).
Does anyboy know the disadvantages of installing high compression pistons
except that I shall have to get high octane fuel ? And what type of
torque/power increase to I expect to gain if I chose to go this route ?
Gerry
|