A friend of mine at work turned me on to an air chisel bit which looks like
kind of like a engine valve, nice and flat impact surface. I'd had a drum in
hat disc on the rear of my truck that I'd tried countless times to get off. Pry
bars, wd-40, PB blaster, propane torch, you name it, it wouldn't break loose.
Took the air chisel home and 30 seconds later it was off.
Seth
#1544
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On 3/30/2004 at 4:16 PM Les Huckins wrote:
>I've done my fair share of brakes, here's what I remember: The little
>bolts hold the drums onto the axle flange, you must remove the bolts.
>You don't have to put them back but they don't interfere with anything
>so why not. With the new brakes installed it's helpful to be able to
>spin the drums and do a preliminary brake adjustment with the wheel off.
>
>Getting the drums off is often a chore, if yours is one of the tough
>ones, first item is to shoot a little WD-40 around the base of the lug
>bolts, if obvious rust, take a little pointed tool and dig out what you
>can. Wear pattern on the drum often leaves a ridge on the outboard
>edge, that's the reason to loosen the old shoes. I use a big rubber
>mallet to pound on the inside edge of the drum, if that doesn't do it
>yet I use a large pry bar or screwdriver (carefully) on the opposite
>edge from where I'm pounding, that usually does it, however, I've seen
>drums that were almost totally rusted to the flange, there you also need
>to start from the center area and work outward, plenty of WD-40 and use
>of a wedge tool and hammer of your choice. This is the toughest but it
>can be done...give the WD-40 time to work itself in, don't be in a rush,
>leave it over night and take another shot.
>
>Les
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