At 08:06 PM 10/20/01 -0400, Moshe Fuld wrote:
>My driver side door does not open whether from the inside or out without
>simultaneously pressing the switch and pulling the inside door handle.
Moshe,
I agree with Kim, the problem is probably in your solenoid. It could
be a bad ground. There is an orange wire that goes through the door and
down to the solenoid. As Kim said, "do you hear the solenoid click"?
To really check this out, you will have to remove the inner door panel.
Then listen/watch the solenoid, does it go click. If not, remove the
wire to it and see if you get power to it (with a voltmeter or mechanics
test light) when you press the switch. If so, the problem is either a
bad ground or a bad solenoid. You can take an allegator clip and connect
to the mounting tab that the solenoid mounts to and to a good ground on
the body of the car. Try it again. If it works, I'd suggest that you
take a piece of wire, and connect 1 end to a hinge bolt at the door,
and connect the other end to a hinge bolt in the roof. This will give
you a good ground. Currently, it depends on the ground at the hing pin.
>The pass. door gets momentalily stuck when opening till it succeed in
>pulling away from the latch that locks the door after continual preesing
>off the switch and upon closing it bounces off the latch several times
>befor elocking. Are those locking latches supposed to move around? Am I
>supposed to grease the locking mechanism on the bottom of the door
>regularly to allow them to slide of the latch more easily?
I wouldn't use grease as it will make a mess and can get on your clothes
too easily. Try something like WD40. Spray it up into the locking mech.
on the door. Then work the mech. several times by hand - Close it, then
use the door handle to release it. If this mech. is dirty and sticky,
you will have problems with the latch releasing and closing.
>would love to have my "B" go thru a total restoration. I live In New
>Jersey 10 min from the George Washington Bridge. I am looking for the
>closest vendor But not at the trade-off of quality. I just want a
>problem free "B".My car is in pretty good shape, everything is working
>almost perfectly. Can anybody who has paid for a total resoration give
>me a range within a few thousand dollars how much it could run?
Again, I agree with Kim. You say the car is in great shape. Then fix things
as needed. A restoration is labor intensive. $15,000 to 20,000 isn't bad.
So far I have about $10,000 in mine, and 1500 hours. But the time I finish
mine, I'll have about $15,000 in parts and supplies, and about 2,000 hours.
Now Terry can probably do it in less time, as he has done many bricklins.
Also figure you'll be without your car for at least a year. If you do
take it to a restoration shop, ask how long it will take. I've been
working on mine since 95 and am finally seeing the light of day. I do
all my own work.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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