>
> No, he isn't.
======
Damn! I knew I shoulda bought them when I had the
chance! $250 for tube headers that fit properly and
didn't need a starter heatshield, according to some
folks who initially bought them.
======
I still have to get back with the guy who said
> they'll fit, someone who owns a Mustang shop and a
Bricklin.... maybe
> somethings changed or maybe poor manufacturing
tolerances.
======
Dunno. The chassis was jigged, so it should be the
same. Of course, one person's idea of fitting and
another's is often dependent on who has the bigger
hammer.
======
>
> >
> > BTW, what's so special about a 4150 DP w/vacuum
> > secondaries? They've been around since the late
'60s.
> > It's my street carb of choice.
>
> This set up comes complete with elec choke ford a/t
kickdown, center hung
> floats and some other stuff. Supposedly, Holley
believes this is a new
> rendition. While 4150s generally came with mech
sec [TT didn't believe
> that this one had vac secs.] I see no reason to
doubt the existence of
> earlier vac sec models.
=====
They were on some Van models, but side pivot, so I
guess they're right. I got a couple stashed in the
attic.
=====
What's nice about the new Holleys is the blow out
> proof power valves, what's bad is the gaskets still
suck.
=====
Some things never change, sigh....
=====
Also had to grind
> down the vac distribution fitting just a little
behind the carb to clear it.
> So my next question is now that I have 3/8" line
from the pump to the carb,
> what about from the tank to the pump. Seems a
little "a" backwards.
=====
FWIW, Holley recommends a 1/2" min from the tank when
using a mechanical pump.
=====
> > True. The Bricklin has negative offset wheels,
ergo
> > it has a large scrub radius by default. Since you
> > can't install wheels to improve it enough to
> > matter, it's moot IMO, unless you plan to
> > significantly increase track.
>
> Well I agree, however, you can exacerbate the
problem with the wrong wheel
> offset, so maybe not completely moot.
=====
That's what I meant when I mentioned increasing
track, cause you sure aren't going to go positive
offset, and be able to turn it lock-to-lock.
=====
To really get to the scrub radius,
> you have to change the pick up points of the
suspension geometry. Something
> that was achieved by Daryl by desigining a new
front crossmember for the
> Fiero.
=====
That, and increasing the Instant Center with a longer
lower control arm, to reduce camber shift through
it's arc.
=====
>
> >
> > The scrub radius is in part responsible for tire
> > scrubbing, hence it's name.
> My understanding was that the "scrub" came from the
effect of the tire tread
> scrubbing on road due to poor load placement /
contact , not the tire
> scrubbing on the wheel well. Hmm, the tales....
=====
This was a 'failure to communicate'. You're correct,
I wasn't talking about scrubbing on the wheel well.
Poor tire loading causes 'scrubbing'.
=====
> Damn, I really want to maintain the stock look, but
these wheels really
> bite.
=====
Big time!
=====
> TT said he once sent some out to get "trued" and
got half of them back with
> a letter pleading not to send anymore.....
=====
I believe it. The local "Wheel Wizard" couldn't
straighten one of mine without shattering it, he
said. So my set is all Show, and no Go.
GM
> stephan
>
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