Matt---P.S. Yes, you'll have to remove the cross member, and slide the rack
forward a little to remove the balancer. A small bottle of the ZZ__ sold by
our Triumph parts houses to help cam break in, is said to be worth the cost.
Continue to use the Cam Lube during installation, and for even more protection,
you could use Valvoline 20-50 racing oil. This also has the zinc added, which
benefits the lifters and lobes.
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: mjmullin@juno.com
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2011 3:24 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Performance Cam Advice?
Hi all: Can anyone chime in with advice regarding a good choice for a hot cam?
I'm looking for a quality vendor, NEW cam, hardened, chilled and/or nitirided
(if such a thing exists). I do not want to do this job again! I found the
cross-reference cam list on the 'net that credits Vance for data crunching.The
engine is 9.5:1, with a header, head work, etc. My last cam was an el cheapo
regrind, and it is my opinion that it lasted about 30 minutes before the lobes
wound up as tiny bits of metal in the oil filter. I pre-lubed the cam and
followers with cam lube and used regular engine oil (not break in oil) when I
startred 'er up. I'm thinkin' somewhere in the range of 280 degrees of
duration with .400" valve lift. (S2, perhaps?) P.S. Do I need to remove the
front cross member and steering rack to get the crank balancer, chain cover,
and sprocket off? Any input either on- or off-list would be appreciated.
Matt Mullin
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