The gauges have a blue plastic filter on the inside of the bulb socket which
gets opaque with age. If you take these off, then you can use the rheo. Easier
to pull the wires through the ashtray hole and you have enough slack to connect
together above the dash then push back down.
Lou
------Original Message------
From: michael lunsford
Sender: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Subject: [6pack] Rheostat
Sent: Jul 30, 2009 2:45 PM
Ken,
Instead of fiddling with the plastic knob on the front of the rheostat why
don't you order a new one (Moss-$3.75) and nibble the old one off with some
nippers or etc. Based on my experience I would also try the needle nose
pliers recommendation to pull the two wires on the back of the rheostat
through the hole where the knob was (if possible this sounds hard), join and
insulate these two wires and completely bypass the rheostat. In my
experience the 2.2 watt bulbs are never bright enough, even with the rheostat
wide open (or is it closed) to give you enough light to see the instruments
properly. I bought some 8 watt bulbs from a guy who advertises in the LBC mags
and even these are none too bright and I have the rheostat bridged as I
described above. I would at least try this technique before I ripped removed
all of the instruments in rder to remove the dash to get to this problem.
Good luck.
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6
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