Oh boy Al...
i have several tips...from doing this several times since 1992.
first, get a jack and a 2x4 peice of wood. you will need this to slight jack
up
the engine under the oil pan. the wood is to keep metal to metal damage.
the starter is a pain to put back on.
you may want to take off the exhaust pipes and muffler to gain access
to the u-joint at the tranny...if i recall correctly it is difficult
(impossible)
to gain access to the 4 bolts from inside the car. i could be mistaken.
you should also scribe a mark on the drive shaft flange and the tranny
flange.
the driveshaft is allegedly balanced. i used chalk and that smeared off...so i
may be unbalanced
(no comments please! LOL)
here are some tricks, i used an old skate board or a rolling dolly to support
the tranny coming out and going in.
helps a lot. stack wood or better yet, use a jack that can fit on the dolly
but still under the tranny. a jack can adjust
the height so much easier.
going in, put the tranny in 4th gear. that way you can turn the rear flange a
little bit to help
line up the 4th gear shaft teeth to the clutch plate teeth. you may need to
bag on the bell housing
with a rubber mallet to ease the tranny in. another coaxing method: by two or
three LONG bolts
with threads going through the entire length and nuts. use these to help coax
the bell housing in
by placing the bolts through one of the top right holes and another bolt at
the bottom left side.
by adding a little tension, and tweaking the rear flange by hand will help
line up the teeth of the 4th gear
and the clutch teeth. just don't over tighten without the teeth lined up. you
will crack the clutch.
yes, i did that. but only because i forgot to put in 4th gear!
this method worked like a charm for me. basically it is to keep the
bellhousing from sliding back.
so just get the bellhousing in as far as it will go, tweak the 4th gear, and
then tighten the bolts little by little.
take your time.
and replace the fork, throw out bearing and bushings, oh AND THE REAR ENGINE
SEAL!!!!
get a GOOD torque wrench. getting the fly wheel bolts off (to get to the
engine seal and re-surface/replace) may need
a pneumatic wrench. or a block of wood to keep the fly wheel from spinning. if
you are in there, spend the extra doe $$$
to replace the other stuff. it is worth it. i assume the clutch has been
replaced before, but i heard people saving the original
pressure plate (looks like a ... bowl with fingers in the middle)
good luck.
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