>A quick question: I want to reduce the free travel in my clutch and move the
>pressure point somewhat away from the floorboard. I should probably pull the
>trans and make sure everything is in oder, but I don't have the time to do
>that right now (I have bled the clutch and helped somewhat, but I am still
>not happy). Moss has an adjustable clutch pushrod for $44
>(http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=47698). This
>would do the trick, but I was looking for a CHEAP quickfix ... <edited>
>
>Thanks,
>Marcus
Marcus,
I tried 20+ years ago to increase the length of the push rod on my 72 TR6. All
it did was to push the clutch slave piston further into the bore. It did not
solve my problem of moving the disengagement of the clutch from the floor board
up to the middle range of the clutch pedal travel. I had the broken clutch
fork pin at the time. There should be 1/2 inch movement of the clutch shaft
arm to disengage the clutch. If you have 1/2 inch movement of the clutch shaft
arm at this time, increasing the the push rod only moves the slave piston
further in the bore. The TR6 hydraulic clutch is self adjusting. I lived with
mine for several years by shifting without using the clutch (synchronized
transmission) when the car was moving. I only used the clutch when necessary
back then. I don"t recommend this procedure for everyone. I don't think that
there is a cheap fix that is permenant or long lasting for your problem.
FWIW,
Greg Perry
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